Which Stitch Neck Warmer
What's with the name?
Which Stitch.
Well this stitch has more than one name.
The UP and DOWN st.
The GRIDDLE st.
The LEMON PEEL st.
And maybe even more.
I prefer the Up and Down stitch as it makes sense to me.
Once the first pattern row is established which is
1 sc, 1 dc, repeat the last 2 stitches to the end.
The up and down bit becomes clear on the next and every alternative row.
1 sc worked into a dc stitch, 1 dc worked into a sc stitch, worded this way it's really the down and up stitch.
The benefits of this st is that it works up very quickly and gives a closed piece of work (no holes) which is perfectly suited for a neck warmer.
Well what about the button holes that are needed?
The button holes are worked into row 3, better to do it at the beginning of the neck warmer rather than the end.
It will take 2 rows to complete the button holes.
Placement can be up to you, but closer to the edges are better for when you wear it.
Button hole row:
Work 1 sc, 1 dc, 1sc, 1dc, STOP and don't work the next 1 sc into the next dc stitch (that's the space for the button hole), do 1 chain instead and skip that dc, then work 1 dc straight into the next sc, do the same about 5st's in from the end.
When you work on the next row you will place a dc into the ch 1 space, button hole made! To make sure you do not miss making this stitch, talk your way through this row as it can be easily over looked.
Now doesn't the neck warmer look odd in the above picture?
But because it wraps around the neck and over laps this is how it looks finished.
Try seeing the left (button holes) winding to you and then back over the buttons.
The one below is not closed but moving the right direction.
How wide will you make it?
How many chains needed to begin?
This is a personal choice, if you make them a little wider than I would make mine, you may feel restricted, choked up by the neck warmer, not that they will be too tight, but a little claustrophobic even.
It depends on the individual.
I make mine 14 chains plus 1 chain.
I did make one for myself 16 chains plus 1 chain and I found that too high and annoying.
I always make them up over an even number of st's.
The rows always begin with a sc and end with a dc.
Each and every row, now it's becoming clearer that this will be an easy and repetitive pattern to make once you pass the button hole rows.
This also makes for nice even edges.
Now lets talk about hook size and yarn thickness.
I live in Australia a warmer climate, but it still gets cold in winter, our most used yarn ply is 8 ply which is the same as US 4 ply.
The hook suitable for AU 8 ply is a 4 or 5mm hook, which is a US G/6, 8/H hook.
Using a thicker ply is fine, but don't forget to use the appropriate hook size for that ply.
I suggest you start out with no more than 14 chain plus 1 chain for the thicker yarn.
Tension not required!
How long will I make it?
You will need about 17.5 inches in length, but in saying that, measure as you go, your neck may be smaller or larger than mine, I'd be an average size neck.
You can copy and paste the instructions onto a word document for ease of use.
Now it's time to write the pattern which begins at the button hole end and is worked in one long piece.
A quick explanation:
Why do I refer to 14 chains plus 1 chain?
The 14 chains are for the amount of st's that will be used, the 1 chain is for the first turning chain, a turning chain only not counted as a stitch in this pattern.
Pattern
Materials needed: Hook, yarn, sewing needle, 2 buttons, tape measure and some scissors.
US terms used:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
Level = beginner to expert.
To begin, chain 15:
Row;1, Work 1 sc into second ch from hook, work 1 dc into next chain, *work 1 sc into next chain, work 1 dc into next chain*, repeat from * to* to end, ch 1 and turn (14 st's)
Row;2, *work 1 dc into a sc, work 1 sc into a dc*, repeat from * to* to end, ch 1 and turn (14 st's)
Row;3, Button hole row, work 1 dc into the sc, work 1 sc into the dc, work 1 dc into the sc, STOP, we are about to make the button hole. Chain 1, do not work into the next stitch, just skip that stitch, now work 1 dc into the sc, work 1 sc into the dc, until you get to with in 5 stitches of the end of the row, work the dc into the sc, STOP, we are about to make the second button hole. Chain 1, do not work into the next stitch, just skip that stitch, now work 1 dc into the sc, (you should have only 2 st's left), now work the sc into the dc and the dc into the sc, make 1 chain for turning, then turn work (12 st's and 2 ch 1 spaces)
Row;4, Working across this row we must place a dc into the chain 1 place, it's easy to get lost here, so lets talk it through.In order we start, a single into a double, a double into a single, a single into a double, a double into that chain 1 space, a single into a double, a double into a single, a single into a double, until we get to that next chain 1 space, now go ahead and do a double into the chain 1 space, (2 st's left) a single into the double, a double into the single, make 1 chain for turning, then turn work (14 st's)
Row 5 makes up the rest of the pattern, just repeat this row until you have the desired length, approx 17.5 inches.
Row;5, *Work 1 dc into a sc, work
1 sc into a dc*, repeat from *to* to end,
ch 1 and turn
ch 1 and turn
At the end of your last row break off yarn long enough to sew in that end.
Sew in ends, check button size before attaching buttons, attach buttons.
Of course you can dress this style up with a few fancy st's or embellishments.
Here's a few more I made. Free Matching Hat Pattern Here
You may also like this neck warmer, free crochet cable neckwarmer
