The Dragon Scale-Infinity Cowl-Free Crochet Pattern

 How will You Wear Your Dragon Scale Infinity Cowl?

You can find the free crochet pattern for the matching hat here

Introduction: Whilst I was making this design and up to a second repeat of crocheting the pattern, I took some time to observe it closely and was not exactly pleased with the way it was looking. I turned it sideways and upside down and concluded that the pattern I was trying to make was not working out, it was quite by chance that I turned the work inside out and discovered a whole new look, the wrong side looked great. So it was straight back to the pattern instructions to make it work.

What is also great about this pattern are the instructions, they are so minimal. This design also reminds me of the crocodile stitch, but without the awkwardness of that particular stitch. Enjoy this free crochet pattern!

The infinity cowl begins with a chain, then that chain is joined and you work the cowl in the round, just like you do with a hat

To fit: Adult
Hook size, 4mm US G/6

Yarn: 8 ply approx 150 to 200 gm’s US DK/Medium.

US crochet terms used

Skill level: beginner +

Tension: medium

Time: 4 hours

Stitches used:

Sl st=slip stitch

Ch=chain

Sc = single crochet

Hdc= half double crochet

Dc =double crochet

Fpdc=front post double crochet

Special stitch: Shell st, (1 dc, 1 ch) x 6 times and 1 more dc in the same stitch

Chain 224, join last chain to first chain to form a ring (this will give you a wrap of twice around, if you want a longer wrap increase with multiples of 8 ch)

Row 1, ch 1, work 1 sc in 1^st st, skip 3 st’s, work a shell in next st, skip 3 st’s, *work 1 sc in next st, skip 3 st’s, work a shell in next st, skip 3 st’s* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into beginning sc of this round (28 shells)

 Row 2, ch 2, work 1 dc in same space as ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the 2^nd and 3^rd dc (= 1 fpdc), ch 2, work 1 sc in the next dc, ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 dc (= 1 fpdc), *work 1 dc in the sc, work 1 fpdc around the 2^nd and 3^rd dc, ch 2, work 1 sc in the next dc, ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 dc*, * repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into beginning dc

Row 3, ch 4, work (1dc, ch 1) 2 times in same space as ch 4 and work 1 dc in same space, work 1 sc in next sc, *skip the next 2 fpdc, work a shell in the next dc, work 1 sc in the next sc* repeat from *to* to end, work (1 dc, 1 ch) x 3 times, in the same space as the beginning ch 4, to join, sl st into the 3^rd ch space

Row 4, ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as ch 1, ch 2, work 1 fpdc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in the next sc, work 1 fpdc around the 2^nd and 3^rd dc, ch 2, *work 1 sc in the next dc, ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in the next sc, work 1 fpdc around the 2^nd and 3^rd dc, ch 2*, repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into beginning sc

Row 5, ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as ch 1, skip the next 2 fpdc, work a shell in the next dc, *work 1 sc in the next sc, skip the next 2 fpdc, work a shell in the next dc* repeat from *to* end, to join, sl st into beginning sc of this round

Row 6, repeat row 2

Row 7, repeat row 3

Row 8, repeat row 4

Row 9, repeat row 5

Row 10, repeat row 2

Row 11, repeat row 3

Row 12, repeat row 4

Row 13, repeat row 5

Row 14, repeat row 2

Making the edge, turn your work

Row 1, ch 1, *work 1 hdc in each of next 2 fpdc, work 1 hdc in ch space, work 1 hdc in next sc, work 1 hdc in ch space, work 1 hdc in each of next 2 fpdc, work 1 hdc in next dc*, repeat from *to* to end, to join sl st into beginning hdc

Row 2, ch 1, work 1 sc in each st to end, to join sl st into beginning sc, finish off this side and sew in loose ends

Making the other edge,

Row 1, attach yarn to other edge of work, ch 2, work 1 hdc in each ch loop of the beginning chain row, to join sl st into beginning hdc, (I found it easier to go over the chain in most places) you should end up with 224 st’s, but a close enough stitch count, is good enough

Row 2, ch 1, work 1 sc in each st to end, to join sl st into beginning sc, finish off this side and sew in loose ends

 Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

 2014.

You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern

I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use

Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Which Stitch Neck Warmer

 Which Stitch Neck Warmer

 What's with the name?

Which Stitch.

Well this stitch has more than one name.

The UP and DOWN st.

The GRIDDLE st.

The LEMON PEEL st.

 And maybe even more.

I prefer the Up and Down stitch as it makes sense to me.

Once the first pattern row is established which is

1 sc, 1 dc, repeat the last 2 stitches to the end.

The up and down bit becomes clear on the next and every alternative row.

1 sc worked into a dc stitch, 1 dc worked into a sc stitch, worded this way it's really the down and up stitch.

 The benefits of this st is that it works up very quickly and gives a closed piece of work (no holes) which is perfectly suited for a neck warmer.

 Well what about the button holes that are needed?

The button holes are worked into row 3, better to do it at the beginning of the neck warmer rather than the end.

It will take 2 rows to complete the button holes.

Placement can be up to you, but closer to the edges are better for when you wear it.

 Button hole row:

Work 1 sc, 1 dc, 1sc, 1dc, STOP and don't work the next 1 sc into the next dc stitch (that's the space for the button hole), do 1 chain instead and skip that dc, then work 1 dc straight into the next sc, do the same about 5st's in from the end.

When you work on the next row you will place a dc into the ch 1 space, button hole made! To make sure you do not miss making this stitch, talk your way through this row as it can be easily over looked.

Now doesn't the neck warmer look odd in the above picture?

But because it wraps around the neck and over laps this is how it looks finished.

Try seeing the left (button holes) winding to you and then back over the buttons.

The one below is not closed but moving the right direction.

How wide will you make it?

How many chains needed to begin?

This is a personal choice, if you make them a little wider than I would make mine, you may feel restricted, choked up by the neck warmer, not that they will be too tight, but a little claustrophobic even.

It depends on the individual.

I make mine 14 chains plus 1 chain.

I did make one for myself 16 chains plus 1 chain and I found that too high and annoying.

 I always make them up over an even number of st's.

The rows always begin with a sc and end with a dc.

Each and every row, now it's becoming clearer that this will be an easy and repetitive pattern to make once you pass the button hole rows.

This also makes for nice even edges.

Now lets talk about hook size and yarn thickness.

I live in Australia a warmer climate, but it still gets cold in winter, our most used yarn ply is 8 ply which is the same as US 4 ply.

The hook suitable for AU 8 ply is a 4 or 5mm hook, which is a US G/6, 8/H hook.

Using a thicker ply is fine, but don't forget to use the appropriate hook size for that ply.

I suggest you start out with no more than 14 chain plus 1 chain for the thicker yarn.

Tension not required!

How long will I make it?

You will need about 17.5 inches in length, but in saying that, measure as you go, your neck may be smaller or larger than mine, I'd be an average size neck.

                    

You can copy and paste the instructions onto a word document for ease of use.

Now it's time to write the pattern which begins at the button hole end and is worked in one long piece.

A quick explanation:

Why do I refer to 14 chains plus 1 chain?

The 14 chains are for the amount of st's that will be used, the 1 chain is for the first turning chain, a turning chain only not counted as a stitch in this pattern. 

 Pattern

Materials needed: Hook, yarn, sewing needle, 2 buttons, tape measure and some scissors.

US terms used:

ch = chain

sc = single crochet

dc = double crochet

Level = beginner to expert.

  

To begin, chain 15:

Row;1, Work 1 sc into second ch from hook, work 1 dc into next chain, *work 1 sc into next chain, work 1 dc into next chain*, repeat from * to*  to end, ch 1 and turn (14 st's)

Row;2, *work 1 dc into a sc, work 1 sc into a dc*, repeat from * to*  to end,  ch 1 and turn (14 st's)

Row;3, Button hole row, work 1 dc into the sc, work 1 sc into the dc, work 1 dc into the sc, STOP, we are about to make the button hole. Chain 1, do not work into the next stitch, just skip that stitch, now work 1 dc into the sc, work 1 sc into the dc, until you get to with in 5 stitches of the end of the row, work the dc into the sc, STOP, we are about to make the second button hole. Chain 1, do not work into the next stitch, just skip that stitch, now work 1 dc into the sc, (you should have only 2 st's left), now work the sc into the dc and the dc into the sc, make 1 chain for turning, then turn work (12 st's and 2 ch 1 spaces)

Row;4, Working across this row we must place a dc into the chain 1 place, it's easy to get lost here, so lets talk it through.In order we start, a single into a double, a double into a single, a single into a double, a double into that chain 1 space, a single into a double, a double into a single, a single into a double, until we get to that next chain 1 space, now go ahead and do a double into the chain 1 space, (2 st's left) a single into the double, a double into the single, make 1 chain for turning, then turn work (14 st's)

Row 5 makes up the rest of the pattern, just repeat this row until you have the desired length, approx 17.5 inches.

 

Row;5, *Work 1 dc into a sc, work 1 sc into a dc*, repeat  from *to* to end, 
ch 1 and turn

 At the end of your last row break off yarn long enough to sew in that end.

 

Sew in ends, check button size before attaching buttons, attach buttons.

Of course you can dress this style up with a few fancy st's or embellishments.

Here's a few more I made. Free Matching Hat Pattern Here

   

You may also like this neck warmer, free crochet cable neckwarmer

 

  Good luck with your project, I’d love to hear your feed back. Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too. TO PRINT OUT THE PATTERN, COPY AND PASTE TO A WORD DOCUMENT ON YOUR COMPUTER.