Crochet Braided Scarf Cowl

Crochet Braided Scarf Cowl

I was so impressed with an image of this braided scarf that I hunted down the source and it came from a you tube video tutorial.

I had the perfect yarn and the perfect recipient, so I got stuck into making it straight away!

 Lionbrand Jeans Yarn

It took me about 4 or 5 leisurely nights of making it and I thoroughly enjoyed the process right down to the softness of this wonderful yarn.

Here's a picture of it finished, before and after braiding the loops.

I used almost 2 balls of the jeans yarn.

Here's the video tutorial just in case you may want to make one yourself.

Cross Roads Ear Warmer/Head Band

A nice quick little project for you.

The head band/ear warmer is made in a long strip

and joined at each end by sewing or crochet sl st

to join.

The pattern is a one row repeat with 14 stitches.

You will have it memorized in no time.

  

Experience: Beginner +

To fit any size: Make the strip long enough to wrap around your head whilst it is slightly stretched.

Materials Used:
10 ply/Worsted Weight approx 40 gm's
4mm/G Hook
Sewing needle and scissors

Stitches used:
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
bl hdc = back loop of the hdc
dc = double crochet

Special st's used:
X st = (skip 1 st, dc in the next st, dc in the skipped st = X made)


To begin: chain 15
Row 1. skip the 1st chain, work 1 hdc in each of the next 4 chains, work the X st 3 times, work 1 hdc in each of the next 4 ch (4 hdc, 3 groups of X st and 4 hdc)

Rows 2, to length required, ch 1, work 1 hdc into the back loop of the next 4 hdc, work the X st 3 times, work 1 hdc into the back loop of the next 4 hdc (4 hdc, 3 groups of X st and 4 hdc)

Once you have the length required sew or sl st ends together.

 If you like this, you'll love this one too!

PUFF N STUFF HEAD BAND

THE FEATHER IN DISGUISE

 This feather is indeed in disguise.

Behind the feathered mask lays the

CHEVRON  STITCH

Yes folks the chevron stitch is the makings of this fine feathered feather.

 And the back bone/spine of the feather is a triple crochet that is made 2 rows below the row you are working on and is worked into the front post of that stitch, giving the over all effect of the rachis part of the feather. There is just 1 more little trick in the making of this crochet feather and that is by the time you get to the second row of dc's you work them into the back loop of the dc st. Oh yeah, of course there is the shaping of the tip of the feather, but that's just increasing less st's over a few rows and your done.

Lets make this crocheted feather together by following some simple picture tutorials.
Every picture tells a story right?
These are almost the same as a story, but in the form of an easy to follow along picture pattern!

Materials needed:

Your choice of yarn and hook

the sky is the limit, fly free

with color and yarn choices 

 The fun begins with chains and slip st's

Next we begin the chevron pattern, we need an extra ch 3, that counts as the 1st dc of this row, then increase in the 4th ch from the hook by adding 2 more dc's, make 3 dc's over the next 3 ch's, then dc 3 ch's together for the decrease.

The first part of the spine will be just a dc into the top sl st, when you have more rows you'll do the front post triple crochet instead.
The you basically repeat what you just did in the reverse order for this side.

Finish off this row with the increase of 3 dc's into the last ch, turn.
EVERY STITCH MADE (apart from the center st) IS NOW
WORKED INTO THE BACK LOOPS ONLY.
Chain up 3 and work an increase of 2 dc's into the 1st dc of this row. 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc's, then the decrease again, dc dec the next 3 st's together.

Now for our first front post triple crochet, but it's only 1 row below as we only have 1, but after this it will always be made 2 rows below the row you are working on. A little trick I learned here after the triple, was to count from the last stitch of the row and back to where I now wanted to do the dc dec over 3 st's,  starting with the 7th, 6th and 5th st's, because that middle stitch can get mixed up with that count, so that way made it easy peasy!
Picture 20 tells us that we have now made enough rows to do our front post triple in the middle st of 2 rows below, yay, finally.
The crochet feather is beginning to look more like a feather now.

Continue working the chevron stitch
for your desired length.
To shape the top of the feather,
you will only do a ch 3 and 1 dc in the first dc of the row, the middle section remains the same and finish the row with only 2 dc in the last stitch.
Onto the next row and the stitch count changes 
so work as instructed in picture 24.

 Getting smaller as we go and less st's to work on, follow the instructions in the pictures.
When you get to the final row, picture 28, decrease over all stitches,
ch 3, dc dec the 2 dc's, triple dec the front post triple, dc dec the last 3 st's all in one.You will have 7 loops on your hook and sl st to close them all.

 Now you get to sew in all the loose ends and make more.
Make some more, make some short ones and long ones and hang them ready for flight.

Baby Rails- A Free Crochet Pattern

 
Introduction: I called this hat baby rails as it looks a little like train tracks, I first made one for my new born grandson Jack, I wanted a masculine looking hat for a boy, he looked so cute in his baby rails hat that I had to write the pattern for it. I love the look of the fpdc and bpdc together, wide or narrow gaps between each stitch give such a uniformed and neat look, I'm sure your little boy will look so smart in his baby rails hat. Free crochet pattern below.
To fit: 2 sizes, new born to 3 months, 3 to 9 months

Hook size: AU 4mm, US G/6
Yarn: AU 8 ply, US dk, approx 100 gms
US crochet terms used
Skill level: Beginner +
Tension: medium
Time: approx 2 hours
Stitches used:
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
bpdc = back post double crochet

Please note! The beginning ch 2 of every rnd is not counted as a st.
BEGIN:
Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring.
Row 1, ch 2, work 12 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round, (you will join this way on every round)
(Increase in every st)
Row 2, ch 2, work 2 dc into each dc to end, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round, (24 dc)
(Increase in every 2nd st)
Row 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 2 dc into the next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*, repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round, (36 dc)
(Increase in every 3rd st)
Row 4, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 2 dc into the next dc, * work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*,  repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round, (48 dc) for new born to 3 months stop increases here and go onto the pattern approx 13.5 inch circumference
(Increase in every 4th st)
Row 5, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc, * work 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*,  repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round, (60 dc) for 3 to 9 months stop increases, approx 15.5 inch circumference
Row 6, for size 3 to 6 months only, ch 2, work 2 dc in same place as join, *work 1 dc in each of next 14 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* 2 more times, work 1 dc in each of the next 14 dc, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round, (64 dc)

Pattern Row. The pattern is an 8 st count that needs to be multiplied by an even number, for the look desired.
the ch 2 is not counted as a st
Row 1, ch 2,(do not work into the ch 2 of the previous row) *work 1 fpdc around each of the next 4 dc, work 1 bpdc around each of the next 4 dc* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the top of the 1st fpdc of this round
Row 2, ch 2,(do not work into the ch 2 of the previous row) *work 1 fpdc around each of the next 4 fpdc, work 1 bpdc around each of the next 4 bpdc* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the top of the 1st fpdc of this round.
For newborn to 3 month size, repeat row 2 until your hat measures approx 4.5 inches in length, then continue onto the rib edging
For 3 to 9 months size, repeat row 2 until your hat measures approx 5.5 inches in length, then continue onto the rib edging
Rib Edging
Row 1, ch 2, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 st's, work 1 bpdc around each of the next 2 st's* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the top of the 1st fpdc of this round.
Row 2, to row 3, repeat row 1 of rib edging (or continue for length desired)
Row 4, ch 1, work 1 hdc in each st to end, to join, sl st into the top of the 1st hdc of this round, finish off and sew in ends

 Rachelle Herron, say's

"Loving this pattern from Cathy Wood at Cats Rockin Crochet. It is quick and easy and has awesome texture. I used some leftover Panda soft I had"

Rachelle has done it again!

Why not team the baby rails hat pattern with the one piece bootie pattern, they look fantastic together! Thank you Rachelle.

Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

2014.

You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern

I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use

Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Free Crochet Hat Patterns Just For Baby

I have gathered a selection of my popular, free baby crochet hat patterns and placed them on one page for a quick one stop and view, just for you!

Just find your favorite and click on it's link, that will then take you to the free crochet hat pattern page

Little Fans Down Under-Beanie Babe
Free Crochet Pattern

 The Shy Butterfly-Baby Beanie
Free Crochet Pattern

The Baby Scale
Free Crochet Pattern

Little Wraps-Baby Beanie
Free Crochet Pattern

Little Cluster Beanie Babe Hat 
Free Crochet Pattern

This is my new born grandson wearing the above hat, he weighed 6.6lb, he will get lots of wear out of this hat as you can see.

The Baby Chain-Baby Hat
Free Crochet Pattern 

 Please continue to drop by Cats-Rockin-Crochet for more free crochet patterns, not only for baby, but for the child and adults too!

Botanic Ridge-Adult Hat-Free Crochet Pattern

 Botanic Ridge-Adult Hat-Free Crochet Pattern

Introduction: If you want a quick and easy free crochet hat pattern that has the wow factor, this is for you! The pattern stitch is made over 2 rows only and repeated for length desired, with or without the ribbed edging this hat looks stunning. There are 2 adult sizes included in the instructions; there will also be a beret style of this pattern coming very soon.

To fit: Adult, 2 sizes, small to medium, medium to large

Measurements approx: 17 inches in circumference/ approx 19.5 inches in circumference

Please note, by using a smaller or larger hook, you can make a smaller or larger beanie

Hook size: 4mm, US G/6 (see introduction)

Yarn: 8 ply approx 100 gm’s US DK/Medium.

US crochet terms used

Skill level: beginner +

Tension: medium

Time: approx 2 hours

Stitches used:

Sl st=slip stitch

Ch=chain

Sc = single crochet

Dc =double crochet

Bpdc = back post double crochet

Fpdc=front post double crochet

Cluster = A 2 dc cluster st. Yo hook, insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook (2 loops left on hook), yo hook, insert hook into same st and pull up a loop (4 loops left on hook), yo hook and pull through 2 loops on hook (3 loops left on hook), yo hook and pull through all loops on hook. A 2 dc cluster made.

Special stitch: Triple clusters = work (2 dc cluster, ch 3, 2 dc cluster, ch 3, 2 dc cluster) all in the same stitch

Please note! The beginning ch 2 of every rnd is not counted as a st.

BEGIN:

Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring.
Row 1, ch 2, work 12 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round, (you will join this way on every round)

(Increase in every st)

Row 2, ch 2, work 2 dc into each dc to end, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round (24 dc)

(Increase in every 2nd st)
Row 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 2 dc into the next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*, repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round (36 dc)
(Increase in every 3rd st)

Row 4, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 2 dc into the next dc, *work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*, repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round (48 dc)
(Increase in every 4th st)

Row 5, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc, *work 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*, repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round (60 dc)

(Increase in every 5th st)

Row 6, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc, *work 1 dc into each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*, repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round (72 dc) small to medium size stop increases here and go on to the pattern

(Increase in every 6th st)

Row 7, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc, *work 1 dc into each of the next 5 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*, repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round, (84 dc) medium to large size, stop increases here and go on to the pattern

Begin Pattern: See special stitch instructions for the triple clusters

Row 1, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc in next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip 3 st’s, work the triple clusters in next st, skip 3 st’s, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, *work 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip 3 st’s, work the triple clusters in next st, skip 3 st’s, work 1 fpdc around the next dc*,  repeat from *to* to last dc of the round, work 1 dc in the last dc, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round

Row 2, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc in next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, ch 3, work 1 sc in the top of the 2^nd cluster, ch 3, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, *work 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, ch 3, work 1 sc in the top of the 2^nd cluster, ch 3, work 1 fpdc around the next dc*, repeat from *to* to last dc of the round, work 1 dc in the last dc, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round

Row 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc in next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work the triple clusters in the next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, *work 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work the triple clusters in the next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc*, repeat from *to* to last dc of the round, work 1 dc in the last dc, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round

Row 4, repeat row 2

Row 5, repeat row 3

Row 6, repeat row 2

Row 7, repeat row 3

Row 8, repeat row 2

Row 9, repeat row 3

Row 10, repeat row 2

Row 11, repeat row 3

Row 12, repeat row 2, my hat is now approx 7 inches in length, you can continue with pattern for length desired, you have the option to add a ribbed hat edge or finish off on a pattern row of your choice

Ribbed Edging:

Row 1, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc in next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 3 dc in the ch 3 space, work 1 dc in the sc, work 3 dc in the ch 3 space, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, *work 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 3 dc in the ch 3 space, work 1 dc in the sc, work 3 dc in the ch 3 space, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc* repeat from *to* to last dc of the round, work 1 dc in the last dc, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round, (small size, 72 dc large size, 84 dc)

Row 2, ch 2, work 1 bpdc in same place as join, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 st’s, *work 1 bpdc around each of the next 2 st’s, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 st’s*, repeat from *to* to last dc of the round, work 1 bpdc around the last st, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round

Row 3, repeat row 2

Row 4, repeat row 2, finish off or continue for length desired

Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

2014.

You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern

I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use

Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Arise and Shine-Flower Square-Free Crochet Pattern

Thank you to those who helped name this Arise and Shine crochet pattern

Introduction The flower is worked in the round beginning with 12 dc’s, the next round has 1 fpdc worked into each dc, this is the flower part that will stick up, you will add the spike to every 2^nd fpdc (details below). The next step see’s you going back to the very 1^st dc of the very 1^st round, making a flat piece with increases for growth, then you will make a fpdc in all the st’s of that round, giving you the next lot of raised st’s, this process in continued once more and then you begin the square. There are instructions at the bottom of this page for a matching plain square.

The Arise and Shine pattern not only gives you a flower square, but a flower on its own, just stop making the flower where you like, or make the flower bigger, make the square bigger, it’s up to you.

If you want to make the flower in the one color, after the fpdc row, ch 3 and sl st into the beginning dc of the dc row below, you will barely see the ch 3 and it’s so much easier.

Hook size: 4mm, US G/6 (or your choice of yarn and hook)

Yarn: 8 ply approx 20 gm’s US DK/Medium.

US crochet terms used

Skill level: beginner +

Tension: not required

Time: approx 30 minutes

Stitches used:

Sl st=slip stitch

Ch=chain

Dc =double crochet

Fpdc=front post double crochet

Please note! Beginning ch 2 is not counted as a stitch.

Special notes: The little spike on the flowers, will not be written into pattern instructions, for every 2^nd fpdc worked make a ch 3, then sl st into the 1^st ch of the ch 3 for the spike, then continue on to your next fpdc

Extra Notes: place stitch marker in the 1^st dc of the round, this will help to keep track of the beginning st

Begin making

Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring.
Row 1, ch 2, work 12 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1^st dc of this round, (you will join this way on every round)

Row 2, ch 2, work 1 fpdc in each st to end, to join, sl st into the top of the beginning fpdc, break off yarn for color change (12 fpdc)

(Increase in every st)

Attach yarn to the 1^st dc of the 1^st round

Row 3, ch 2, work 2 dc into each dc to end, sl st to join (24 dc)

Row 4, ch 2, work 1 fpdc in each st to end, to join, sl st into the top of the beginning fpdc, break off yarn for color change (24 fpdc)

(Increase in every 2^nd st)

Attach yarn to the 1^st dc of the 3rd round
Row 5, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 2 dc into the next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*, repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (36 dc)

Row 6, ch 2, work 1 fpdc in each st to end, to join, sl st into the top of the beginning fpdc, break off yarn for color change (36 fpdc)

Attach yarn to the 1^st dc of the 5th round

You are now making the square and the ch 3 is counted as a stitch

Row 7, ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in each of next 8 dc, *work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc, work 1 dc in each of next 8 dc,* repeat from *to* 2 more times, work 2 dc, ch 2 in same space as beginning ch 3 and 1st dc, to join sl st into the top of the beginning ch 3 of this round (if you used 8 ply and a 4mm hook, your square will measure approx 4 inches)

Row 8, ch 3, work 1 dc in each of the next 11 dc, *work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the ch 2 space, work 1 dc in each of the next 12 dc*, repeat from *to* 2 more times, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the ch 2 space, to join, sl st into the top of the beginning ch 3, round (if you used 8 ply and a 4mm hook, your square will measure approx 5 inches)

Here are the instructions for the Arise and Shine matching plain square 

Please note! Beginning ch 2 is not counted as a stitch

Begin making

Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring.
Row 1, ch 2, work 12 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1^st dc of this round (12 dc)

Row 2, ch 2, work 2 dc into each dc to end, sl st to join (24 dc)

Row 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 2 dc into the next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*, repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (36 dc)

You are now making the square and the ch 3 is counted as a stitch

Row 4, ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in each of next 8 dc, *work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc, work 1 dc in each of next 8 dc,* repeat from *to* 2 more times, work 2 dc, ch 2 in same space as beginning ch 3 and 1st dc, to join sl st into the top of the beginning ch 3 of this round (if you used 8 ply and a 4mm hook, your square will measure approx 4 inches)

Row 5, ch 3, work 1 dc in each of the next 11 dc, *work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the ch 2 space, work 1 dc in each of the next 12 dc*, repeat from *to* 2 more times, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the ch 2 space, to join, sl st into the top of the beginning ch 3, round (if you used 8 ply and a 4mm hook, your square will measure approx 5 inches)

I am currently working on more uses for the

 Arise and Shine flower square 03/03/2014

Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

 2014.

You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern

I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use

Please link back to this free crochet pattern if you use it