Crochet Pattern Bonanza

Crochet Pattern Bonanza

 This is a free pattern site you may want to have a look at.

They are currently getting around 16,000 visitors per week.

What are the highlights of this new site?

Pictured icons lead you to the free pattern.

I love this idea.

You can also link to this site which in return will link back to you.

I have submitted my Tezzie hat pattern.

 This was also a talking point at Craft Gossip it's nice to hear positive things regarding you work.

Crochet Plaid Scarf Neck/Warmer

I've seen the plaid used in an afghan and loved it, so I thought I'd play around with it on a smaller level, such as the neck warmer, the only thing is, that you don't have much room for the utmost effect of the plaid.

This is the simple formula I used for my neck warmer.

Grid completed.

The weaving.

Finished weaving.

The tool I used for easy weaving, a crochet hook, some fishing line and some gaffa tape to secure it. The eye of my so called weaving tool, carry's many strands of yarn at once. This is secured to the bottom of my crochet hook.

My Hexagon Jacket

Have you seen the hexagon jackets? Well I made mine into a short sleeve sloppy sweater.

I used a sweater for basic measurement as per the picture below, not a very accurate form of measurement as my garment turned out a bit sloppy, but I rather that than a tight fitting one as I also wanted room under neath it to wear a singlet/tank/t shirt.

I made a center piece in the form of a V to give the garment a bit of shape and to allow for the extra size I wanted in the center.

I filled in the back piece with some Tunisian crochet for a little bit of different texture.

All I had to do next was to give it more length, I pondered abut this for some time and I decided to crochet a few rows in the same stitch I had been using, I  tried it on and decided that would look the best for the rest of the garment, I don't like too many frills and the shape was very good.

Below is the front view of the picture of the garment finished

And here is the back view finished.

As I mentioned it is a little bit large, but looks quite alright on, it passed the hubby test, so that's fine in my book.

Here is a link to a free baby hexagon pattern, granny stitch and dc stitch.

Update On A Couple Of Recent Post's

I finally took the Piano Wrap to my Mum's this week-end. I got her to close her eye's and stand in front of a mirror whilst I placed it over her shoulders. When she opened her eye's she started laughing with pleasure and humor and said "I can wear that to Church tomorrow". And she did. When she walked into the church every body commented on it, but when she finally played the piano, she forgot to put it on, LOL.

And for those slipper socks, I'm going to have to make plenty more, I've already been wearing both pair! They are so warm and comfy, I think they are great!

Crochet Piano Key Wrap

Just wrapped this wrap up in time for Mothers Day!

My Mum plays the piano at church every suday and I thought this would be perfect to keep her shoulders warm whilst playing her tunes.

Although my initial idea was for a scarf, the scarf was too wide, so I made it a shoulder wrap instead. I had intensions to make a few of these to raise funds, but it is too time consuming, I need to make smaller items that take less time, which I have and am still making.

My main computer has crashed and it has the graph pattern details with in it's brain.

So I'll have to wait to share this pattern with you.

Below is the beginning of the wrap, it is all made in sc and an 8 ply yarn. I used a graph I altered for the piano keys. To get the same graph on the other side of the wrap, I simply turned the graph up side down and followed it that way.

I made a full length piano scarf way back in 2007 which you can view via this link.

My #5 daughter is my model in these pictures.
Side view.
Side view.

And just a rear view snap. You can see that the wrap folds down into a collar just so neatly.

Beret with a simple cable stitch. Free Pattern.

This yarn I have used is quite old, I can't even remember where it came from. I wanted a simple stitch pattern for the beige colour, it took me a few days to come up with something. I did not want anything with holes or too fancy. A couple of easy cable rows has set this colour off. It is a little on the itchy side being 100% wool and the type of wool it is, but I will give it a rinse in fabric softener and hopefully that will smooth things out a bit.

The yarn I chose to use.

The simple cable is just noticeable.

And it is still noticeable from a distance too.

Beret with a simple cable stitch.

Size:
Woman’s small, medium and large

Experience level:
Intermediate

Time to make:
One evening

Materials:
Size 5mm hook, H/8
100 gm’s of 12 ply yarn

Tension:
I am a medium tension crocheter, if you crochet tightly use a larger hook,
if you crochet loosely use a smaller hook

Stitches used: US terms.
Sc, Hdc and Dc

Special stitches:
Cable stitch, worked over 4 dc= skip next 3 st’s, dc into following 4th dc, dc into 3rd skipped dc, dc into 1st skipped dc, dc into 2nd skipped dc. Please note: at the beginning of the cable round you will not ch 3, you will dc into the 4th dc along as per the cable st instructions.

Hdc decrease of next 2 st’s= yo hook, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, insert hook into next st and pull up a loop, work all 4 loops off hook.

Beginning at crown:
Ch 4
Work 11 dc into 4th chain from hook, sl st into the top of the 4th chain to join (12 dc), my count will always include the first ch 3 as a dc.

Increasing beret:
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 2 dc into each dc around, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (24 dc),

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, * repeat from * to * to end , sl st into top of ch 3 to join (36 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 2 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (48 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 3 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (60 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 4 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (72 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 5 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 5 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (84 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 6 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 6 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (96 dc)

Cable Stitch row:
*Cable st over the next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of first dc to join, (the first dc is the dc into 1st skipped dc of the cable stitch) (96 dc)

Dc row:
Ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc and in each dc around, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, (96 dc)

Cable Stitch row:
*Cable st over the next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join, (the first dc is the dc into 1st skipped dc of the cable stitch, see special stitches) (96 dc)

Decrease rows: note, ch 2 is the first hdc st
Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 5 dc, hdc decrease over next 2 dc, *work 1 hdc into next 6 dc, hdc decrease over next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2

Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 4 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc, *work 1 hdc into next 5 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2

Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 3 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc, *work 1 hdc into next 4 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2 (60 hdc)

Single crochet rounds, no decreases: Please note the beginning ch 1 is not counted as the first sc

Ch 1, work 1 sc into sl st space, work 1 sc into each hdc to end, sl st to join into first sc space (60 sc)
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for large beret
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for medium beret
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for small beret

Try on the beret whilst making the sc rounds for your tailor made fit.

This model head is a small size with a medium size beret on it.

The beret can also be worn sloping from front to rear.

This is the yarn I began with and I still have some more yarn to use to make another one.

Beret with a simple cross stitch. Free Pattern.

When I write a pattern I usually hand write it whilst I am making the garment, then I make another garment whilst I type the pattern, this usually corrects any mistakes that I may have made. How ever I did not follow this process this time. So I would very much appreciate your feed back if you make this beret using this pattern.

Below is the yarn I used, it took 1.5 balls (approx) to complete the beret, the yarn does not refer to it's ply.

Below is the completed beret in a medium size.

Size:
Woman’s small, medium and large

Experience level:
Beginner to intermediate

Time to make:
One evening

Materials:
Size 5mm hook
100 gm’s of 10 to 12 ply yarn

Tension:
I am a medium tension crocheter, if you crochet tightly use a larger hook,
if you crochet loosely use a smaller hook

Stitches used in US terms:
Sc, Hdc and Dc

Special stitches:
Dc cross stitch= skip next st, dc into following st, dc into skipped st

Beginning at crown:
Ch 4
Work 11 dc into 4th chain from hook, sl st into the top of the 4th chain to join (12 dc)
Increasing beret:
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 2 dc into each dc around, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (24 dc), my count will always include the first ch 3 as a dc.

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, * repeat from * to * to end , sl st into top of ch 3 to join (36 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 2 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (48 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 3 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (60 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 4 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (72 dc)

Next row has no increases:
Ch 3, *work 1dc into next dc,* repeat from *to* to end sl st into top of ch 3 to join (72 dc)
Increase row:
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 5 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 5 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (84 dc)

Begin cross st pattern, with no further increases:
Sl st to next dc, ch 3, work 1 dc in first sl st to join space,* sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into first dc to join (84 dc)

Decrease and cross st pattern round:
Sl st to top of ch 3 space (second st), ch 3, work 1 dc into 1st dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc, (decrease) work 1 dc into space between the next 2 dc, *skip next 2 dc, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 1 dc into the 2nd skipped dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 1 dc into the skipped dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 1 dc into the skipped dc, (decrease) work 1 dc into space between the next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * ending with skip 1 dc, sl st into first dc to join ( 72 dc)

Decrease the single dc by skipping over it and cross st pattern round:
Sl st to top of ch 3 space (second st), ch 3, work 1 dc into 1st dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc, (decrease) skip single dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into 2nd skipped dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc, *(decrease) skip single dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into 2nd skipped dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc,* repeat from * to * ending with, (decrease) skip single dc, sl st into first dc to join ( 60 dc)

Cross st pattern round with no decreasing:
Sl st to top of ch 3 space (second st), ch 3, work 1 dc into 1st dc,* sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into first dc to join (60 dc)
Repeat above round one more time:

Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next dc and into each dc around, sl st into top of ch 2 to join (60 hdc includes ch 2)

Note: ch 1 is not counted as a stitch from here on:
Ch 1, work 1 sc into top of ch 2, work 1 sc into each hdc around, sl st into ch 1 to join (60 sc)
Sizes:
Ch 1, work 1 sc into each sc around, sl st into ch 1 to join (60 sc) This is the above row, referred to for the 3 sizes below.

For the large size, repeat the above row one more time: finish off
For the medium size, repeat the above row 3 more times: finish off
For the small size repeat the above row 5 more times: finish off

Remember to sew in all loose ends.

Try the beret on whilst making the sc rounds for your tailor made fit.

I would appreciate all feed back (good or bad) on this pattern.
I hope you enjoy your Beret.
I will have more free patterns to come in the very near future so stay tuned.

Just to add, here is a link to the completed beret by another blogger.

Pocket Scarf. Free Pattern. Easy.

Pocket Scarf, side on pockets.
When I was thinking of the design for this pocket scarf, I originally planned for the pocket opening to be along the top of the inside of the scarf, but the more I thought about it and as the scarf progressed, I realized that a side pocket entry would be much more easier to use. Just like the pockets on the sides of a pair of slacks.
I have made the scarf section in a griddle stitch pattern, but it could be just as easily made in a single crochet stitch pattern.
I also allowed for some stretch in the scarf I made, as it is made from acrylic which will stretch slightly.
The contrasting colored yarn which I used was much thicker than the main colored yarn. How ever this did not destroy the look of the scarf, in fact it added a much warmer pocket.
My suggestions for a contrasting yarn would be for a feathered type yarn, eyelash yarn or a crazy type yarn. If you find any of these too thin, just keep using the main colored yarn along with it, (2 strands).

This scarf can be altered for sizing. I am of a medium build and height, so you can adjust accordingly. The same goes for the hands too.
I began with a chain that was slightly wider than the widest part of my hand. I also wanted an even number of stitches for when I began the griddle stitch pattern.
Level: Beginner
Time: Approx 12 hours
Size: Medium Adult
Materials needed.
About 100gms of main color
About 50gms of contrasting color
Size 4.00mm hook (US G/6)
Darning needle
Terms used are US terms

Small Pocket

Beginning pattern.

Making the rear of pocket
Ch 21
Work 1 sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across (20 sc), ch 1 to turn
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc) wrong side of garment
For a small pocket, repeat above row 34 more times. (Total of 36 rows of sc)
For a larger pocket repeat above row 42 more times. (Total of 44 rows of sc)

Large Pocket

Shaping the pocket base
Work 1 sc in each sc across in the back of the loop, for this row only, ch 1 to turn
Work 2 more rows of 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn
Work 1 sc in each sc across in the front of the loop, for this row only, ch 1 to turn
Work 1 more row of 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn

Row count and contrasting color join
You should now be on row 41 for small pocket or row 49 for large pocket.
You will be changing to the contrasting color; this is done on the wrong side of the scarf which is an even row. Joining in fancy yarn on the wrong side will give you the full effect of any fancy yarn used on the right side of the garment.

Making the front of the pocket
With contrasting color
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc)
Repeat above row until your contrasting color is the same length as the rear pocket, if you have used a thicker contrasting yarn, the row count will not be the same.

Making the scarf
For my height (5 foot and 4 inches) and comfort I made the scarf (in between both pockets) 49 inches long. I chose to use the griddle stitch but a simple single crochet stitch can be used.
The griddle stitch instructions
Changing to main color now
Work 1 sc in first sc, work 1 dc in next sc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 dc in next sc,* repeat from * to * to end, ch 1 to turn (20 st’s)
Work 1 sc in first dc, work 1 dc in next sc, *work 1 sc in next dc, work 1 dc in next sc,* repeat from * to * to end, ch 1 to turn
Repeat above row for length required.
Single crochet instructions
Changing to main color now
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc)
Repeat above row for length required.

Making the front of the second pocket
Join in contrasting yarn on wrong side
Make the second pocket the same length as the first pocket, ending on wrong side.

Shaping the pocket base
Working with main color now,
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc)
Work 1 sc in each sc across in the front of the loop, for this row only, ch 1 to turn
Work 2 more rows of 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn
Work 1 sc in each sc across in the back of the loop, for this row only, ch 1 to turn
Place stitch marker at the end of the above row

Making the rear of pocket
Counting rows from the stitch marker
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc)
For a small pocket, repeat above row 35 more times. (Total of 36 rows of sc)
For a larger pocket repeat above row 43 more times. (Total of 44 rows of sc)
Finish off.

Bottom rear of the pocket folded up to the top rear of the front pocket

Sewing the pockets
With right side facing, fold the bottom rear of the pocket to the top rear of the front pocket, place this in line with the centre of the scarf and sew the edge across the top rear of the pocket (not the scarf). I used a simple whip stitch one way and turned to repeat for extra strength.

Sew the side of the pocket that faces inward to your body closed.

Sew the outside of the pocket from the bottom edge up wards, leaving an opening large enough for you to place you hands into. You may have to try the scarf on a few times to adjust the pocket opening. I sewed mine almost ¾’s of the way up.

Here a a couple of really bad photo's (LOL) that shows you 2 ways to wear the scarf. I'll try and get some better model picture's.

You can wear it long ways.

And you can also wear it short ways. Wrapped once around the neck.

Another Seraphina Shawl

Here is another Seraphina Shawl that I made, I took my time with this one and made it over about 4 days, whilst I was dabbling in other projects. It reminds me of the tortoiseshell cat. I was using up some yarn that I did not really care for. I wondered if any one out there would really like it. But along comes my Sister-in-Law and loved it, so I gave it to her. The link to the pattern and the other Seraphana Shawl is here.

Wearing my skirt and top out fit today.

The pictures did not come out so good, but it gives you an idea of how it looks. I am wearing it today as it is warm.

Link to original post.