Monday, May 18, 2009
My big Boy Computer is Back!
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Still No Computer
So I'll just watch some more TV, but which programs to watch?
Crocheted Caps/Beanies
This first cap is made with black acrylic, which I made with a brim with black eye lash yarn and a glittered multi colour edging that turns upwards so as not to itch the scalp.
This cap has a thinner finished edge which also turns up and is finished off with a yarn that looks similar to small locks of curly hair, a very suttle effect.
This cap is a variegated blue, in a very soft tensel and acrylic mixture, finished off with cream edging and a small flowerette with a silver button in the centre.
And just plain cream, but with a lovely simple shell pattern, it almost looks like a cloche hat. I used the same pattern for the cap above, but with out the sc edge. 
I made them all in a small size and they took me a casual 4 evenings, I did not write a pattern as I just wanted to enjoy making them, but it was a learning tool for me for future patterns to write.
By doing this for leisure and a cause, I do get great pleasure from it and I do feel better about myself knowing that these will give some one a moment in time to forget about their misfortune, what ever that may be.
Thanks for looking.
Saturday, May 9, 2009
My Computer Has Crashed!
Friday, May 8, 2009
Crochet Piano Key Wrap
Friday, April 24, 2009
Beret with a simple cable stitch. Free Pattern.
The simple cable is just noticeable.
And it is still noticeable from a distance too.Size:
Woman’s small, medium and large
Experience level:
Intermediate
Time to make:
One evening
Materials:
Size 5mm hook, H/8
100 gm’s of 12 ply yarn
Tension:
I am a medium tension crocheter, if you crochet tightly use a larger hook,
if you crochet loosely use a smaller hook
Stitches used: US terms.
Sc, Hdc and Dc
Special stitches:
Cable stitch, worked over 4 dc= skip next 3 st’s, dc into following 4th dc, dc into 3rd skipped dc, dc into 1st skipped dc, dc into 2nd skipped dc. Please note: at the beginning of the cable round you will not ch 3, you will dc into the 4th dc along as per the cable st instructions.
Hdc decrease of next 2 st’s= yo hook, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, insert hook into next st and pull up a loop, work all 4 loops off hook.
Beginning at crown:
Ch 4
Work 11 dc into 4th chain from hook, sl st into the top of the 4th chain to join (12 dc), my count will always include the first ch 3 as a dc.
Increasing beret:
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 2 dc into each dc around, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (24 dc),
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, * repeat from * to * to end , sl st into top of ch 3 to join (36 dc)
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 2 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (48 dc)
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 3 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (60 dc)
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 4 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (72 dc)
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 5 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 5 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (84 dc)
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 6 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 6 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (96 dc)
Cable Stitch row:
*Cable st over the next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of first dc to join, (the first dc is the dc into 1st skipped dc of the cable stitch) (96 dc)
Dc row:
Ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc and in each dc around, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, (96 dc)
Cable Stitch row:
*Cable st over the next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join, (the first dc is the dc into 1st skipped dc of the cable stitch, see special stitches) (96 dc)
Decrease rows: note, ch 2 is the first hdc st
Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 5 dc, hdc decrease over next 2 dc, *work 1 hdc into next 6 dc, hdc decrease over next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2
Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 4 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc, *work 1 hdc into next 5 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2
Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 3 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc, *work 1 hdc into next 4 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2 (60 hdc)
Single crochet rounds, no decreases: Please note the beginning ch 1 is not counted as the first sc
Ch 1, work 1 sc into sl st space, work 1 sc into each hdc to end, sl st to join into first sc space (60 sc)
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for large beret
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for medium beret
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for small beret
Try on the beret whilst making the sc rounds for your tailor made fit.
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Beret with a simple cross stitch. Free Pattern.
Size:
Woman’s small, medium and large
Experience level:
Beginner to intermediate
Time to make:
One evening
Materials:
Size 5mm hook
100 gm’s of 10 to 12 ply yarn
Tension:
I am a medium tension crocheter, if you crochet tightly use a larger hook,
if you crochet loosely use a smaller hook
Stitches used in US terms:
Sc, Hdc and Dc
Special stitches:
Dc cross stitch= skip next st, dc into following st, dc into skipped st
Beginning at crown:
Ch 4
Work 11 dc into 4th chain from hook, sl st into the top of the 4th chain to join (12 dc)
Increasing beret:
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 2 dc into each dc around, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (24 dc), my count will always include the first ch 3 as a dc.
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, * repeat from * to * to end , sl st into top of ch 3 to join (36 dc)
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 2 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (48 dc)
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 3 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (60 dc)
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 4 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (72 dc)
Next row has no increases:
Ch 3, *work 1dc into next dc,* repeat from *to* to end sl st into top of ch 3 to join (72 dc)
Increase row:
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 5 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 5 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (84 dc)
Begin cross st pattern, with no further increases:
Sl st to next dc, ch 3, work 1 dc in first sl st to join space,* sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into first dc to join (84 dc)
Decrease and cross st pattern round:
Sl st to top of ch 3 space (second st), ch 3, work 1 dc into 1st dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc, (decrease) work 1 dc into space between the next 2 dc, *skip next 2 dc, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 1 dc into the 2nd skipped dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 1 dc into the skipped dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 1 dc into the skipped dc, (decrease) work 1 dc into space between the next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * ending with skip 1 dc, sl st into first dc to join ( 72 dc)
Decrease the single dc by skipping over it and cross st pattern round:
Sl st to top of ch 3 space (second st), ch 3, work 1 dc into 1st dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc, (decrease) skip single dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into 2nd skipped dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc, *(decrease) skip single dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into 2nd skipped dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc,* repeat from * to * ending with, (decrease) skip single dc, sl st into first dc to join ( 60 dc)
Cross st pattern round with no decreasing:
Sl st to top of ch 3 space (second st), ch 3, work 1 dc into 1st dc,* sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into first dc to join (60 dc)
Repeat above round one more time:
Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next dc and into each dc around, sl st into top of ch 2 to join (60 hdc includes ch 2)
Note: ch 1 is not counted as a stitch from here on:
Ch 1, work 1 sc into top of ch 2, work 1 sc into each hdc around, sl st into ch 1 to join (60 sc)
Sizes:
Ch 1, work 1 sc into each sc around, sl st into ch 1 to join (60 sc) This is the above row, referred to for the 3 sizes below.
For the large size, repeat the above row one more time: finish off
For the medium size, repeat the above row 3 more times: finish off
For the small size repeat the above row 5 more times: finish off
Remember to sew in all loose ends.
Try the beret on whilst making the sc rounds for your tailor made fit.
I would appreciate all feed back (good or bad) on this pattern.
I hope you enjoy your Beret.
I will have more free patterns to come in the very near future so stay tuned.
Just to add, here is a link to the completed beret by another blogger.
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Yarn from the states
Below is some yarn from Rachel G.
Below is a left handed, crocheting cat that Rachel G made for me!
If you look closely at the yarn choice here in this beret, you will notice it is from the first lot of yarn I received from Octobermoon.
The pattern for this beret will soon be uploaded to my blog for free for all to use.
Friday, April 17, 2009
Pocket Scarf. Free Pattern. Easy.
Pocket Scarf, side on pockets.When I was thinking of the design for this pocket scarf, I originally planned for the pocket opening to be along the top of the inside of the scarf, but the more I thought about it and as the scarf progressed, I realized that a side pocket entry would be much more easier to use. Just like the pockets on the sides of a pair of slacks.
I have made the scarf section in a griddle stitch pattern, but it could be just as easily made in a single crochet stitch pattern.
I also allowed for some stretch in the scarf I made, as it is made from acrylic which will stretch slightly.
The contrasting colored yarn which I used was much thicker than the main colored yarn. How ever this did not destroy the look of the scarf, in fact it added a much warmer pocket.
My suggestions for a contrasting yarn would be for a feathered type yarn, eyelash yarn or a crazy type yarn. If you find any of these too thin, just keep using the main colored yarn along with it, (2 strands).
This scarf can be altered for sizing. I am of a medium build and height, so you can adjust accordingly. The same goes for the hands too.I began with a chain that was slightly wider than the widest part of my hand. I also wanted an even number of stitches for when I began the griddle stitch pattern.
Level: BeginnerTime: Approx 12 hours
Size: Medium Adult
Materials needed.
About 100gms of main color
About 50gms of contrasting color
Size 4.00mm hook (US G/6)
Darning needle
Terms used are US terms
Ch 21
Work 1 sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across (20 sc), ch 1 to turn
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc) wrong side of garment
For a small pocket, repeat above row 34 more times. (Total of 36 rows of sc)
For a larger pocket repeat above row 42 more times. (Total of 44 rows of sc)
Shaping the pocket baseWork 1 sc in each sc across in the back of the loop, for this row only, ch 1 to turn
Work 2 more rows of 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn
Work 1 sc in each sc across in the front of the loop, for this row only, ch 1 to turn
Work 1 more row of 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn
Row count and contrasting color join
You should now be on row 41 for small pocket or row 49 for large pocket.
You will be changing to the contrasting color; this is done on the wrong side of the scarf which is an even row. Joining in fancy yarn on the wrong side will give you the full effect of any fancy yarn used on the right side of the garment.
Making the front of the pocketWith contrasting color
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc)
Repeat above row until your contrasting color is the same length as the rear pocket, if you have used a thicker contrasting yarn, the row count will not be the same.
Making the scarfFor my height (5 foot and 4 inches) and comfort I made the scarf (in between both pockets) 49 inches long. I chose to use the griddle stitch but a simple single crochet stitch can be used.
The griddle stitch instructions
Changing to main color now
Work 1 sc in first sc, work 1 dc in next sc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 dc in next sc,* repeat from * to * to end, ch 1 to turn (20 st’s)
Work 1 sc in first dc, work 1 dc in next sc, *work 1 sc in next dc, work 1 dc in next sc,* repeat from * to * to end, ch 1 to turn
Repeat above row for length required.
Single crochet instructions
Changing to main color now
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc)
Repeat above row for length required.
Join in contrasting yarn on wrong side
Make the second pocket the same length as the first pocket, ending on wrong side.
Shaping the pocket base
Working with main color now,
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc)
Work 1 sc in each sc across in the front of the loop, for this row only, ch 1 to turn
Work 2 more rows of 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn
Work 1 sc in each sc across in the back of the loop, for this row only, ch 1 to turn
Place stitch marker at the end of the above row
Making the rear of pocket
Counting rows from the stitch marker
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc)
For a small pocket, repeat above row 35 more times. (Total of 36 rows of sc)
For a larger pocket repeat above row 43 more times. (Total of 44 rows of sc)
Finish off.

Bottom rear of the pocket folded up to the top rear of the front pocket

Sewing the pockets
With right side facing, fold the bottom rear of the pocket to the top rear of the front pocket, place this in line with the centre of the scarf and sew the edge across the top rear of the pocket (not the scarf). I used a simple whip stitch one way and turned to repeat for extra strength.
Sew the side of the pocket that faces inward to your body closed. 
Sew the outside of the pocket from the bottom edge up wards, leaving an opening large enough for you to place you hands into. You may have to try the scarf on a few times to adjust the pocket opening. I sewed mine almost ¾’s of the way up.
Here a a couple of really bad photo's (LOL) that shows you 2 ways to wear the scarf. I'll try and get some better model picture's.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
My Hands Have Not Been Idle
So here is the out come, I have since washed it and also used a lovely smelling fabric softener, when it has dried I will try to block it for better shaping.
I have another project on the go now, it will be one with a free and easy pattern for a winter item, so I'll be back with that one soon.

Thursday, April 2, 2009
Oh Dear, Things Are Happening So Quick!
After much discussion and doing the dollar figures we decided on that one. But we had to crunch the seller on the figures a bit to make it worth our while.
As it is a relocated house, there is much to do on the outside. It sit's on a quarter block with a double car port, so you can imagine all of the extra's we need, to improve the block.
It's almost like a new home, even though it has been a display house, we will be the first to actually live in it.
Down went the deposit and we are currently in the waiting stage for our buyers finance to be approved. So that is where I have been of late, in the real estate world, which I knew barely nothing about until just recently.
I thought I'd throw in some picture's here of my naughty dirty dog's. Dad (Louie) look's remorseful for getting dirty, but playful and naughty little Rev, doesn't seem to care, he was out having fun!

Monday, March 23, 2009
Am I Bad?

Tuesday, March 17, 2009
How Would You Teach A Person To Crochet?
Teach me to crochet Aunty? she asked. Well okay I said.
So how does one begin to teach another to crochet?
Firstly I showed her how to make a slip knot onto the hook and demonstrated how it pulled apart with out knotting, easy part.
I then showed her how to hold her hook and the yarn and expressed how each person finds their own comfort eventually.
Next it was making chains, lots of chains until she felt a little more comfortable.
Then I pulled it all un done and said let's try a chain of 10 and an extra chain for a turning chain, as we are now going to learn how to make a sc into the chain.
Now the chain of 10 plus 1 more chain for turning was easy for her.
In through the 2nd chain from the hook and draw through a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops, we repeated this to the end. Ch 1 to turn, now make a sc in the first sc and in each sc across, good, she had the hang of it. So once again I rip it out and ask her to make it all by her self.
Rip it, rip it, rip it, I said, sounds like a frog and that's why it's known as frogging it. So she is learning some crochet slang too!
Once she was confortable with the sc (by the way she was a fast learner, which made it quite easy for me to teach her) I asked her if she wanted to learn a dc and she said she was ready.
I also told her I was using US crochet terms as they are more popular.
We kept the same piece of work going and I told her to ch 3 to turn, but not to go into the first sc, but into the next sc, as the ch 3 to turn will now become her first st of the row.
I asked her to count her dc's every now and again, some time's she had extra but mostly she had less. So a quick lesson of an increase or decrease was necessary. The missing dc's were from the beginning of her row's. So that was soon sorted.
Now shortly after her lesson she had to catch a plane to return home to QLD, so I loaded her up with some nice plastic hooks that she could use on the plane, the steel one's would have been conviscated as a lethal weapon.
I had the time to teach her to crochet in a circle too.
She was also thinking of making her self a blanket/aghan, but I did not have the time to teach her how to make a granny square and I advised her to youtube it for visual lessons and she did! I turned around and here she was on the computer, yelling out "this lady is too fast", "well pause it" I said "or find a better one to learn from" and she did.
So Roslyn has gone home with a new hobby.
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
My Toilet Paper Roll Holder.
I had wire and beads in mind from the very beginning.
First of all I collected the medium that I needed.
I pre strung the wire with the beads.
Then I began to crochet away, beginning with a chained circle and increasing for 3 rows only.I noticed that this wire was very hard to crochet with and it was scratching up my good no 6 hook. I have crocheted with wire before and I do not remember it being this hard before.
I eventually changed to another no 6 hook and kept going on for the outer side of the holder. I eventually ran out of one whole spool of wire, but I knew I had back up from another spool of wire.
It was not until I used the back up spool that I realized the wire was a thinner gauge. I had been crocheting with 24 gauge wire, I usually crochet with 28 gauge wire and it is much easier on the hands and the hook!
Now I had used that spool of wire too. I had no more back up on hand.
So I just sat the unfinished wire toilet paper cover on the toilet roll, whilst I thought about my next move. Wait and buy more wire, I couldn’t even remember where I had bought it in the first place, or try another medium. Oh yeah sure what could possibly look good with the wire?
Brain storm, try this. Crochet a lacey bottom.
So I did.
With a no 2.5 hook and some fine crochet cotton I made up the design as I went around the out sides.
As it started to take form, I got more and more excited, “this is going to work I thought”.
But my job was not over as I finished my final round.I must stiffen this lace for it to stay in place for ever.
I wanted the perfect shape, but I knew the glue would stick to the toilet paper roll. So I wrapped the toilet paper roll in glad wrap to prevent this from happening.
Using a mixture of both PVA glue and water slightly heated, I dipped the lace into the mixture and shaped it around the paper roll.
My next step was to sit back and wait for the lace to dry out and hope that it will hold up the wire and beaded top part.I would venture out side now and then with an egg flip to make sure the cotton was not adhering to the plastic board.
Finally I knew the cotton crocheted part was dry enough, due to the extreme hot weather we have been having. So I removed it from the toilet paper roll and it was upright and sturdy. Yay!
Sharkey the toilet lid cover was now going to have a new friend.
But I really wanted this to match the large toilet paper roll holder and the toilet brush, which is a steel look.



















