Free Crochet Hat Pattern Round Up

This Is A Free Pattern Round Up

All Of My Very Own

Each Free Hat Pattern 

Was Written By Me

And Is Available 

Right Here On My Blog

Free For You To Use

Which One Would You Make And Wear?

Free Pattern Links Provided Below

In no particular order, here are the links

Beret with a simple cable stitch. Free Crochet Pattern here.

Ripple Stitch Hat. Free Crochet Pattern Here

Beret with a simple cross stitch. Free Crochet Pattern Here

(2 Free Patterns) Chunky Beret and 

Three Season's Beret. Free Crochet Pattern Here

Crochet Tezzie Hat. Free Crochet Pattern Here

 

  

Crochet Crocodile Stitch Hat. Free Crochet Pattern Here

Crochet Catherine Wheel Hat. Free Crochet Pattern Here

Which Stitch Hat. Free Crochet Pattern Here.

If I was to pick a hat that I am most proud of, I would say it is the Catherine Wheel Stitch, hat pattern. It not only has my name, but it was a challenge and a pleasure to make it work.

Hope you like my little round up here and thank you to my readers for all of your positive and generous feed back!

 

It's A Goal, Crochet Net Ball Hat

My step daughter Bek asked me to make her a hat in the form of a netball. My answer was, that I would have to do some research and see what I can come up with.

I haven't touched a netball in years so I scanned the internet for netball images as part of my research.

And here is the design I came up with.

A netball shot for a goal.

Below is an image I used to assist with the black lines of the ball. Netball twirling.

This little charm really gave me the idea for the look of the hat.

I had some yarn that was close to a netball color.

I gave the hat a ribbed cuff.

More detailed instructions at the bottom of the post

I used a 4.00mm hook

8 ply yarn.

1 50gm ball of orange, small amount of black and white.

I began with 12 dc in a ring and incresed in each round with the formula below.
12=24=36=48=60=72
I then worked 6 rows around in dc with out increasing.
I changed to black yarn for the ribbed cuff and alternated fpdc, bpdc for 3 rounds, then finished the hat.
fpdc= front post double crochet
bpdc= back post double crochet

Using the picture of the netball twirling I began to sew the lines into the hat.

Not a perfect job, but close enough, my sewing skills are limited.

I had some thick white medium for the hoop of the goal.

Or you could crochet a white, single crochet foundation chain that fits around the hat.

I attached the white yarn to the hoop with a slip st.
Chained 8, sc around the hoop, chained 8 sc around the hoop repeated this in an even manner and joining to the beginning sl st, about 16 ch 8 loops in total.
I then sl st to the centre of the first ch 8,
ch 8, sc into the 4th chain of the next ch 8, continuing around to where I first sl st into the ch 8.
I did 2 more rows of the chain and finished off the goal netting.

Wear the net on, or wear the net off, it's up to you, but I know that my step daughter will be wearing this hat whilst playing netball and the net may get into her way.

You can always sew it on if you like.

To make the basic hat.

US crochet terms used.

beginning ch 3 is the first dc of the round

r1. Ch 4, work 11 dc into 1st ch of ch 4, sl st to top of ch 3 to join ring (12 dc)

r2. ch 3 and work 1 dc in same place as ch 3, work 2 dc in each dc around, sl st to top of ch 3 to join,

( 24 dc)

r3. ch 3, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc* repeat from *to* around sl st to join. ( 36 dc)

r4. ch 3, work 1 dc in the next dc, work 2 dc in the next dc, *work 1 dc in the next 2 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* around, sl st to join ( 48 dc)

r5. ch 3 work 1dc in the next 2 dc, work 2 dc in the next dc, *work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* around, sl st to join (60 dc)

r6. ch 3,work 1 dc in the next 3 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in next 4 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* around, sl st to join (72 dc)

rnd 7, to rnd 12. (6 rounds) ch 3, work 1 dc in each dc around sl st to join

Change to black yarn.

Work 3 rows as follows.

ch 2 to step up to the row you are beginning, this is not counted as a stitch.

r1. fpdc around ch 3 of row below, bpdc around the dc of the row below, *fpdc around the dc of the row below, bpdc around the dc of the row below,* repeat from *to* sl st to join into the first

fpdc

r2 and r3. (ch 2 to step up to this row) *fpdc around fpdc, bpdc around bpdc* repeat from *to* around, sl st to beginning fpdc to join.

finish off, weave in ends.

Use the above pictures and instructions to decorate your hat.

Special stitches used.

FPDCInstructions: yo, insert hook behind post of stitch (from front to back), yo, pull through, bring up even with last stitch completed, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through rem 2 lps to complete stitch

BPDCInstructions: yo, insert hook behind post of stitch (from back to front), yo, pull through, bring up even with last stitch completed, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through rem 2 lps to complete stitch

Simple Crochet Sweater Size 2

Simple Crochet Toddler Sweater 

Size 1 free crochet pattern also available

 Printable pattern without pictures, free crochet pattern

To fit 2 yr old, has ¾ length flared sleeve, replace the trbl with a dc, for non flared sleeve

US terms used

Materials needed:

Hook size: 4.00mm US G/6

Yarn: 8 ply approx 200 gm’s/ US DK/Medium

Sewing needle

                                                 

Stitches used:

Ch= chain

Sc = single crochet

Scfr = single crochet foundation row

Dc = double crochet

Fpdc= front post double crochet

Bpdc = back post double crochet

Trbl = triple crochet

Skill level: beginner +

Tension: medium

Time: approx 8 hours

Introduction: Do you love those crocheted garments that are made all in one piece with just a little bit of sewing to finish the garment off? Well this is one of those.

Construction details: Begin at the bottom front band, work your way up to the sleeve placements, break off yarn and make a chain, then join to the side of the sweater, work across the chest part of the sweater, make another chain length for the arm, then return working arms in place with the body of the sweater. When you come to the neck and head area, you will replace the st’s with a length of chain for about 4 rows, then continue without the chain lengths working across the sleeve, back and sleeve part. Continue along until the sleeves are finished, then break off yarn and join to the body only and finish the back of the sweater. The side seams are then sewn and the lengths of chain in the neck and head area are gathered and sewn in place, giving this sweater a little bit of extra decoration, or you can even try to hide them completely!

Let’s begin.

The beginning ch2 or ch3 is not counted as a stitch throughout pattern.

Row 1, make a scfr of 47 sc. (47 sc)

Row 1, alternative, Ch 48, work 1sc in 2^nd chain from hook and in each ch across (47 sc)

Row 2 ch 2, work 1 dc in each sc to end (47dc)

(Simple rib look edge made over 2 rows)

Row 3 is the right side of the sweater

Row 3 ch 2, work 1 dc in same space of the ch 2,* work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc* repeat from*to* to end

Row 4 ch 2, work 1 dc in same space of the ch 2,* work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in the next dc* repeat from*to* to end

Row 5 ch 2, work 1 dc in each st to the end of the row, (47 dc)

Row 6 to row 23, ch 2, work 1 dc in each st to the end of the row, (47 dc)

(Adding sleeves)

Row 24 ch 2 work 1 dc in each st to end, make a chain of 30, finish off with a sl st and break off yarn, turn you work over, attach yarn to the last dc of this row, ch 33, turn your work, (you will have a length of chain coming out from each side of your work

Row 25 work 1 trbl in 4^th chain from hook, work 1 trbl in each of next 3 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 26 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 47 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 26 ch, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 ch, (4 trbl, 26 dc, 47 dc, 26 dc, 4 trbl) (107 st’s)

(Row 26 is the right side of the sweater)

Row 26 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in the next 99 dc, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 27 to Row 29 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each dc across, work 1 trbl in each of the last 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 30 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, *work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc,* repeat from *to* 15 more times, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl (107 st’s)

(Making the head space)

Row 31 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, ch 35 loosely, skip the next 33 st’s, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl (4 trbl, 33 dc, 35 chain, 33 dc, 4 trbl) (74 st’s)

Row 32 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, ch 38 loosely, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl

Row 33 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, ch 43 loosely, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl

Row 34 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc,  ch 48, work 1 dc in the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl

(Preparing to close the neck area)

Row 35 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, ch 33, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl

Row 36 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, work 1 dc in each of the 33 chain spaces, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 37 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, *work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc,* repeat from *to* 15 more times, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 38 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each dc st across, work 1 trbl in each of the last 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 39 to Row 45 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each dc across, work 1 trbl in each of the last 4 trbl (107 st’s)

(Right side of work and last row of sleeves)

Row 46  ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each dc across, work 1 trbl in each of the last 4 trbl (107 st’s), break off yarn, turn you work

(Now working the back only)

Row 47 join yarn with a sl st to the 31 st of this row, ch 2 and work 1 dc in this st, work 1 dc in each of the next 46 dc, turn your work, (47 dc)

Row 48 to Row 68, ch 2 work 1 dc in each st to end of row (47 dc)

(Simple rib look edge made over 2 rows)

Row 69 ch 2, work 1 dc in same space of the ch 2,* work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in the next dc* repeat from*to* to end

Row 70 ch 2, work 1 dc in same space of the ch 2,* work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc* repeat from*to* to end

Row 71 ch 1, work 1 sc in each dc to end, break off yarn leaving a long tail to sew with

Fold sweater in place with wrong sides facing out, sew side and sleeve seams together on both sides

With right side facing

Gather the length’s of chains from the head space, find the middle of the chains, sew the middle part together, then sew to the outer part of the sweater on the chest area, add a button/ decorative item to hide the chain join on the sweater.

This pretty lilac sweater was made by Deanne Galanty, she chose to gather her chains to resemble a butterfly, well done Deanne!

Free CrochetPattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

 Jan 2014.

You can use this pattern for charity or for selling your work, please link back to this pattern if you use it.

 

Ripple Stitch Hat. Free Crochet Pattern

Adult Size Crochet Ripple Stitch/Chevron Stitch Hat

  My inspiration for this pattern was Joel Maddens hair color, he changes it every week or maybe every day. 

He is a coach on The Voice.

I usually make my medium hats with a beginning crown of 72 st's, but the pattern used for the hat, made it shrink, so I had to start over with a crown count of 84 st's, it was a perfect count as the stitch pattern is dividable by 14 st's.

Below is the 70 st count for the crown, it was too small for a medium adult

 Below is the 84 st count, big difference!

Hook size: AU 4.00mm. US G/6

Yarn ply: AU 8 ply. US 4 ply medium approx 120 gm’s

Tension: 9 dc’s, 2 inches wide. 1 dc, half inch high

US terms used
Beginner +

Time approx 3 hours: Size medium adult

Stitches used:

Ch = chain

Sl st = slip st

Sc = single crochet

Hdc = half double crochet

Dc = double crochet

Fphdc = front post half double crochet

Bphdc = back post half double crochet

Dec = decrease

Inc = Increase = more than 1 stitch in the same stitch

Yo = yarn over hook

Special Instructions:

Pattern is a 14 stitch repeat. Make your crown (end count) in multiples of 14. Example, I am using 84 dc which was an easy target to get to using the basic dc crown; I increased in 1 more row.

 I am using this size as the pattern tends to shrink down one size, so I am calling this size a medium.

Very small adult size you will need 70 dc st’s in the crown. You can manipulate the stitch count by adding or subtracting a stitch anywhere in the last row of making your crown, you may need to add or subtract 2 or 4 st’s, but that’s okay.

dc dec, next 3 st’s = yo hook, insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo pull through 2 loops only, yo hook, , insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), ), yo pull through 2 loops only,  yo hook, insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through remaining 4 loops on hook

To begin make the basic dc crown found here.

To get 84 st’s complete row 7 below.

Row 7, Ch 3, work 1 dc in next 4 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (84 dc)

Set Up Row for Pattern, (color changes will not be mentioned)

Row 1, Ch 3, work 1 dc in the next 3 st’s, work 1 sc in the next 6 st’s, *work 1 dc in the next 8 st’s, , work 1 sc in the next 6 st’s,* repeat from*to* to the last 4 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 4 st’s, , sl st to join in top of ch 3

Pattern:

Row 2, Ch 3, work 2 dc’s in same space as sl st (inc made), work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made), dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made),  work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, work 3 dc’s in the next st (inc made),

(14 st, pattern just made)

*work 3 dc’s  in the next st (inc made), work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made), dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made),  work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, work 3 dc’s  in the next st (inc made),* repeat from *to* to end of the round, sl st to join in top of ch 3

Row 3 and remaining rows of pattern, repeat pattern row 2 approx 6 or 7 times in total (or length desired i.e: slouch look)

It’s up to you if you want a straight hat edge or the wave hat edge. If you want the wave hat edge add more rows of the pattern for length desired

Straight Hat Edge

Row 1, work 1 sc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 7 st’s, work 1 sc in the next 3 st’s. *work 1 sc in the next 3 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 8 st’s, work 1 sc in the next 3 st’s* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the first st of the round

Special size instructions:

For a tighter hat edge replace the hdc with sc’s.

For a looser hat edge replace the hdc with dc’s.

Row 2, ch 2 (first hdc), work 1 hdc in each st to end of the round, sl st into ch 2 space to join

Row 3, ch 2,* work 1 bphdc in next st, work 1 fphdc in next st,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into ch 2 space to join

Row 4, repeat row 3 for length desired.

Finish off and tie in ends.

 You may find this amusing, this is how I jotted down the pattern as I made the hat and pattern.

  

Chickie Magoo helped test this pattern and she did find a mistake, lucky for me she did!
This is her hat made from the pattern
Chickie chose a slouch look.
This is Chickie's feed back.

I opted to add a few rows of FPHDC/BPHDC to enhance the slouch look. Just a note, the depth from crown to edge is a tad long for a non-slouch @ 84 sts ... at least it is for me. My head circ is 22". This hat measures 8" from top of crown to the beginning of the post stitch edge, then another inch for the post stitch edging.... that's why it's slightly slouchy. I don't mind that look so it's all good but just so you know. As for speed, once I figured out the pattern, it was a breeze and didn't take long at all, no more than just a plain hat really and the repeats are very easy to remember. After the first coloured stripe (once I figured it out lol) I didn't need to refer back to the pattern till I got to the straight edge... I would say it's quicker than it looks! Thank YOU x

 Good luck with your project, I’d love to hear your feed back. Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too.

 TO PRINT OUT THE PATTERN, COPY AND PASTE TO A WORD DOCUMENT ON YOUR COMPUTER.