Little Fans Down Under, Baby Sweater-Free Crochet Pattern

Little Fans Down Under, Baby Sweater

To fit: Newborn to 3 Months

Matching Hat, free crochet pattern
Matching Bootie, free crochet pattern

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Introduction:

The body of the sweater is made from top down, and is made in one piece, the sleeves are then added and made in the round, last of all the collar is added.

The edges of both sides are made as you make the body and are designed with button hole and button placements in mind.

There may be some lengthy explanations in some parts, but that ensures there is no need for guessing games.

Pattern stitch:

With clever placements of the V stitch and 9 dc’s all in a row, a few sc’s and ch’s thrown in together, gives this pretty little stitch pattern a big tick. You will need a bit of concentration to begin with, but the pattern does repeat its self, so it will become repetitive. If you nosey on down to the pattern rows, you will see the repeats in bold and notice they are very achievable.

Hook size: 4mm, US G/6

Yarn: 8 ply approx 150 to 200 gm’s US DK/Medium.

US crochet terms used

Skill level: beginner +

Tension: medium

Time: approx 6 hours

Stitches used:

Sl st=slip stitch

Ch=chain

Sc = single crochet

Hdc= half double crochet

Fphdc = front post half double crochet

Hdc dec = half double crochet decrease

Dc =double crochet

Fpdc=front post double crochet

V st= (dc, ch 1, dc)

V stitch: The V stitch is (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc), worked into the st indicated by the pattern

To Begin, Chain 54

The beginning ch 2 of each row, is not counted as a stitch

Row 1, work 1 dc in 3^rd chain from the hook, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 ch, work 3 dc in next ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 7 ch, work 3 dc in next ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 16 ch, work 3 dc in next ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 7 ch, work 3 dc in next ch, work 1 dc in each of next 9 ch, ch 2 and turn

Row 2, work 1 dc in same st as ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 9 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 18 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 9 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the last dc, ch 2 and turn

Row 3, work 1 dc in same st as ch 2, work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in each of the next 9 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 11 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 20 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 11 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 9 dc, work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in the last dc, ch 2 and turn

Row 4, work 1 dc in same st as ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next bpdc, work 1 dc in each of the next 10 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 13 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 22 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 13 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 10 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next bpdc, work 1 dc in the last dc, ch 2 and turn

Row 5, work 1 dc in same st as ch 2, work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in each of the next 11 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 15 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 24 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 15 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 11 dc, work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in the last dc, ch 2 and turn

Row 6, work 1 dc in same st as ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next bpdc, work 1 dc in each of the next 12 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 17 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 26 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 17 dc, work 3 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 12 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next bpdc, work 1 dc in the last dc, ch 2 and turn

MY NOTES 10 INCHES WIDE AT THE WIDEST POINT

Arm Holes

Row 7, work 1 dc in same st as ch 2, work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in each of the next 14 dc, ch 4, skip 19 st’s, work 1dc in each of the next 30 dc, ch 4, skip 19 st’s, work 1dc in each of the next 14 st’s, work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in the last dc, ch 2 and turn (62 st’s)

Increases for pattern:

Row 8, work 1 dc in same st as ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next bpdc, work 2 dc in each of the next 14 dc, work 3 dc in ch 4 space, work 2 dc in each of the next 30 dc, work 3 dc in ch 4 space, work 2 dc in each of the next 14 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next bpdc, work 1 dc in the last dc, ch 2 and turn (126 st’s)

Row 9, work 1 dc in same st as ch 2, work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in each of the next 122dc, work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in the last dc, ch 2 and turn

Begin Pattern Rows:

Row 10, work 1 dc in same st as ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next bpdc, work 1 sc in next st, *skip 3 st’s, work 9 dc in next st, skip 3 st’s, work 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *to* to end, skip 1 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next bpdc, work 1 dc in the last dc, ch 2 and turn (15 sets of 9 dc, 16 sc’s)

Row 11, work 1 dc in same st as ch 2, work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 2 dc in the sc st, ch 1, work 1 sc in the 4^th, 5^th and 6^th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1,* work a V st (V st =1dc, ch1, 1dc) in the sc, ch 1, work 1 sc in the 4^th, 5^th and 6^th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1,* repeat from *to* to end, work 2 dc in the last sc st, work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in the last dc, ch 2 and turn

Row 12, work 1 dc in same st as ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next bpdc, work 5 dc in between the next 2 dc, skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc, *work 9 dc in the V st space, skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc,* repeat from *to* to end, work 5 dc in between the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next bpdc, work 1 dc in the last dc, ch 2 and turn

Row 13, work 1 dc in same st as ch 2, work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc, ch 1, work a V st in the next sc, ch 1, *work 1 sc in the 4^th, 5^th and 6^th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1, work a V st in the next sc, ch 1*, repeat from *to* to end, skip 3 dc, work 1 sc  in 4^th and 5^th dc, work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in the last dc, ch 2 and turn

Row 14, work 1 dc in same st as ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next bpdc, work 1 sc in the 1^st sc, work 9 dc in the V st space, *skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 9 dc in the V st space,* repeat from *to* to end, skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next bpdc, work 1 dc in the last dc, ch 2 and turn

Rows 11 to 14 form pattern

Row 15, repeat row 11

Row 16, repeat row 12

Row 17, repeat row 13

Row 18, repeat row 14

Your garment will measure approx 8 to 8.5 inches in length after row 18, you have the choice to stop here or follow pattern repeats for length desired. Finishing on a row with the 9 dc’s in the same st will give you a lovely edge.

I finished mine at row 22

Making the sleeves: Get to know your sleeve prior to joining in the yarn and adding the correct stitch count that we need, please indentify the stitch placements by reading the instructions below, the stitch placements are underlined and in bold.

On row 7 of the yoke where we made our sleeve holes, we skipped 19 st’s. Looking at the arm holes, from the back of the garment find the 1^st skipped dc, now count to the 19^th skipped dc, next you will see the top loop of a dc that is worked into, the side bar of the dc, the chain space, next you will see the 3 dc’s that were made over the ch 4, identify the space on both sides of the 2^nd dc, the last chain space (after the 3^rd dc), the next side bar of the dc, the next top loop of a dc that was worked into, now we are back at the beginning of the 1^st dc of the 19 dc. This will give use 27 st’s to begin our sleeve.

Please note that both sleeves are worked the same and are worked in the round, for the right sleeve join in yarn from the back of the arm hole, for the left sleeve join in yarn from the front of the arm hole.

Row 1, join in yarn to the 1^st of the 19 skipped dc, ch 2, work 1 dc in same space as ch 2, work 1 dc in each stitch identified for the arm hole (ch 2 and 27 dc), to join, sl st into the top of the 1^st dc of this round

Set up for pattern rounds:

Row 2, ch 2, work 1 dc in same space as ch 2, *work 2 dc in next dc, work 1 dc in next dc* repeat from *to* to end (ch 2 and 40 dc), to join, sl st into the top of the 1^st dc of this round

Pattern rounds:

Row 3, ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as join, skip 3 st’s, work 9 dc’s in next st, skip 3 st’s,* work 1 sc in next st, skip 3 st’s, work 9 dc in next st, skip 3 st’s,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in beginning sc

(5, 9 dc groups, 5 sc’s)

Row 4, ch 4, work 1 dc in same space as ch 4, ch 1, work 1 sc in the 4^th, 5^th and 6^th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1,* work a V st (V st =1dc, ch1, 1dc) in the sc, ch 1, work 1 sc in the 4^th, 5^th and 6^th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the space between the beginning ch 4 and 1 dc

Row 5, ch 3, work 4 dc in same space as join, skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc, *work 9 dc in the V st space, skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc,* repeat from *to* to end, work 4 dc in same space as the beginning (ch 3 and 4 dc), to join, sl st into the top of the ch 3

Row 6, ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as ch 1, work 1 sc in next dc, ch 1, work a V st in the next sc, ch 1, *work 1 sc in the 4^th, 5^th and 6^th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1, work a V st in the next sc, ch 1*, repeat from *to* to end, skip 3 dc, work 1 sc  in 4^th dc, sl st into the 1^st sc of this round

Row 7, ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as join, work 9 dc in the V st space, *skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 9 dc in the V st space,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the first sc of this round

Rows 4 to 7, form pattern

Row 8, repeat row 4

Row 9, repeat row 5

Row 10, repeat row 6

Row 11, repeat row 7, finish, break off yarn and sew in ends

Your sleeves will measure approx 8 to 8.5 inches in length (from collar to end of sleeve)

Collar, join in yarn with a sl st, to the 1^st stitch on the right hand side (when laid flat, it is the opposite end to where you began the garment)

Working hdc stitches in this row

Row 1, ch 1, work 1 hdc in same space as join, work 1 fphdc around the next fpdc, work 1 hdc in each of the next 6 ch spaces, work 1 hdc dec over the next 3 ch spaces, work 1 hdc in each of the next 5 ch spaces, work 1 hdc dec over the next 3 ch spaces, work 1 hdc in each of the next 5 ch spaces, (work 1 hdc dec over the next 2 ch spaces, twice), (work 1 hdc in each of the next 5 ch spaces, work 1 hdc dec over the next 3 ch spaces, twice), work 1 hdc in each of the next 6 ch spaces, work 1 fphdc around the next fpdc, work 1 hdc in last ch space, (42 st’s)

Row 2, ch 1, work 1 hdc in same space as join, work 1 bphdc around the next fphdc, work 1 hdc in each of the next 38 hdc, work 1 bphdc around the next fphdc, work 1 hdc in the last st

Row 3, ch 1 work 1 sc in same space as ch 1, skip 3 st’s, work 9 dc’s in the front loop of the next st, skip 3 st’s,* work 1 sc in the front loop of the next st, skip 3 st’s, work 9 dc in the front loop of the next st, skip 3 st’s,* repeat from *to* to end, work 1 sc in the last st

Row 4, ch 4, work 1 dc in same space as ch 4, ch 1, work 1 sc in the 4^th, 5^th and 6^th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1,* work a V st (V st =1dc, ch1, 1dc) in the sc, ch 1, work 1 sc in the 4^th, 5^th and 6^th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1,* repeat from *to* to end, work 2 dc in the last sc,

Row 5, Ch 3, work 4 dc in between the 1st and 2^nd dc, skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc, *work 9 dc in the V st space, skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc,* repeat from *to* to end, work 5 dc in between the last 2 dc of the row

Row 6, Ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as ch 1, work 1 sc in next dc, ch 1, work a V st in the next sc, ch 1,*work 1 sc in the 4th, 5th and 6th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1, work a V st in the next sc, ch 1*, repeat from *to* to end, skip 3 dc, work 1 sc  in 4th dc, work 1 sc into the top of the ch 3, fold down collar, break off yarn and sew in ends

Add buttons to the left or right of your garment, line them up on a front post stitch and make sure they are opposite a ch 2 space for closure.

Little Fans Down Under-Beanie Babe-Free Crochet Pattern

Free Crochet Pattern

Free CrochetPattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

 Feb 2014.

You can sell your items made from this pattern

I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use

Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Google

Yarn Ply Variations and Hook Sizes

I've been crocheting with 2 different brands of yarn recently and both are double knit, AU 8 ply.

Both are quality brands, but differ in thickness, which forces me to use a different size hook.

Here I am working on the crown of a baby hat

I used a 4 mm hook on the left and 3.5mm on the right

 The yarn on the left is slightly thicker that the yarn on the right, so I adjusted the hook to suit the yarn

Yarn hook and ply does make a big difference when making a wearable item from specific instructions.

 Take one of my own patterns for example.

Simple Crochet Sweater Size 2

Free Crochet Pattern 

I used a 4mm hook and dk yarn (the thicker dk) making the sweater below.

Debbie Sealock Hughes writes

Here's your pattern for the free crochet pattern size 2 simple crochet pattern. I had a thicker yarn so I used a size I hook and it worked beautifully and will fit my 8 year old granddaughter. It is a beautiful pattern and very easy. Took me about 7 hours to complete. Thanks for the pattern!

With some experience on hand, we can up size and down size a pattern by switching hook sizes and yarn ply's.

I know many do with the patterns I write and it's fun to see!

Simple Crochet Sweater Size 2

Simple Crochet Toddler Sweater 

Size 1 free crochet pattern also available

 Printable pattern without pictures, free crochet pattern

To fit 2 yr old, has ¾ length flared sleeve, replace the trbl with a dc, for non flared sleeve

US terms used

Materials needed:

Hook size: 4.00mm US G/6

Yarn: 8 ply approx 200 gm’s/ US DK/Medium

Sewing needle

                                                 

Stitches used:

Ch= chain

Sc = single crochet

Scfr = single crochet foundation row

Dc = double crochet

Fpdc= front post double crochet

Bpdc = back post double crochet

Trbl = triple crochet

Skill level: beginner +

Tension: medium

Time: approx 8 hours

Introduction: Do you love those crocheted garments that are made all in one piece with just a little bit of sewing to finish the garment off? Well this is one of those.

Construction details: Begin at the bottom front band, work your way up to the sleeve placements, break off yarn and make a chain, then join to the side of the sweater, work across the chest part of the sweater, make another chain length for the arm, then return working arms in place with the body of the sweater. When you come to the neck and head area, you will replace the st’s with a length of chain for about 4 rows, then continue without the chain lengths working across the sleeve, back and sleeve part. Continue along until the sleeves are finished, then break off yarn and join to the body only and finish the back of the sweater. The side seams are then sewn and the lengths of chain in the neck and head area are gathered and sewn in place, giving this sweater a little bit of extra decoration, or you can even try to hide them completely!

Let’s begin.

The beginning ch2 or ch3 is not counted as a stitch throughout pattern.

Row 1, make a scfr of 47 sc. (47 sc)

Row 1, alternative, Ch 48, work 1sc in 2^nd chain from hook and in each ch across (47 sc)

Row 2 ch 2, work 1 dc in each sc to end (47dc)

(Simple rib look edge made over 2 rows)

Row 3 is the right side of the sweater

Row 3 ch 2, work 1 dc in same space of the ch 2,* work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc* repeat from*to* to end

Row 4 ch 2, work 1 dc in same space of the ch 2,* work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in the next dc* repeat from*to* to end

Row 5 ch 2, work 1 dc in each st to the end of the row, (47 dc)

Row 6 to row 23, ch 2, work 1 dc in each st to the end of the row, (47 dc)

(Adding sleeves)

Row 24 ch 2 work 1 dc in each st to end, make a chain of 30, finish off with a sl st and break off yarn, turn you work over, attach yarn to the last dc of this row, ch 33, turn your work, (you will have a length of chain coming out from each side of your work

Row 25 work 1 trbl in 4^th chain from hook, work 1 trbl in each of next 3 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 26 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 47 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 26 ch, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 ch, (4 trbl, 26 dc, 47 dc, 26 dc, 4 trbl) (107 st’s)

(Row 26 is the right side of the sweater)

Row 26 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in the next 99 dc, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 27 to Row 29 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each dc across, work 1 trbl in each of the last 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 30 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, *work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc,* repeat from *to* 15 more times, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl (107 st’s)

(Making the head space)

Row 31 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, ch 35 loosely, skip the next 33 st’s, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl (4 trbl, 33 dc, 35 chain, 33 dc, 4 trbl) (74 st’s)

Row 32 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, ch 38 loosely, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl

Row 33 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, ch 43 loosely, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl

Row 34 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc,  ch 48, work 1 dc in the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl

(Preparing to close the neck area)

Row 35 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, ch 33, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl

Row 36 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, work 1 dc in each of the 33 chain spaces, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 37 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, *work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc,* repeat from *to* 15 more times, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 38 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each dc st across, work 1 trbl in each of the last 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 39 to Row 45 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each dc across, work 1 trbl in each of the last 4 trbl (107 st’s)

(Right side of work and last row of sleeves)

Row 46  ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each dc across, work 1 trbl in each of the last 4 trbl (107 st’s), break off yarn, turn you work

(Now working the back only)

Row 47 join yarn with a sl st to the 31 st of this row, ch 2 and work 1 dc in this st, work 1 dc in each of the next 46 dc, turn your work, (47 dc)

Row 48 to Row 68, ch 2 work 1 dc in each st to end of row (47 dc)

(Simple rib look edge made over 2 rows)

Row 69 ch 2, work 1 dc in same space of the ch 2,* work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in the next dc* repeat from*to* to end

Row 70 ch 2, work 1 dc in same space of the ch 2,* work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc* repeat from*to* to end

Row 71 ch 1, work 1 sc in each dc to end, break off yarn leaving a long tail to sew with

Fold sweater in place with wrong sides facing out, sew side and sleeve seams together on both sides

With right side facing

Gather the length’s of chains from the head space, find the middle of the chains, sew the middle part together, then sew to the outer part of the sweater on the chest area, add a button/ decorative item to hide the chain join on the sweater.

This pretty lilac sweater was made by Deanne Galanty, she chose to gather her chains to resemble a butterfly, well done Deanne!

Free CrochetPattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

 Jan 2014.

You can use this pattern for charity or for selling your work, please link back to this pattern if you use it.