Sunday, August 7, 2011

Crochet, Little Boy Blue Preemie Sweater

Little Boy Blue, Preemie Sweater


Size, preemie approx 2lb (1 to 3 lb)
Hook 4.00 mm US: G/6
Yarn: 8 ply US: 4ply
Tension: medium
Materials: small amount of contrast and main approx 25 gm’s,
3 small buttons
Stitches used:
Ch=chain
Sc=single crochet
Dc=double crochet
Back loop
Front loop
Dec=decrease
Inc=increase
 
Special Instructions: #1 Sweater begins at collar.#2 Arms, back and front top yolk are worked onto collar #3 sides and back are worked in one piece as armhole st’s are skipped. #4 Bottom, side and collar edgings are worked in next. #5 Arms are joined in by picking up st’s from skipped st’s under yolk.

Beginning ch 3 is counted as the first st of every row

Begin with contrasting color: Ch 37
Row 1: work 1 sc in 2nd chain from hook, work 1 sc in each chain across, change to main color, (36 sc) then ch 3 and turn (ch 3 is first st of next row)

Row 2: work 1 dc in each sc across (36 dc), ch 3 and turn
Decrease row  (shape collar)
Row 3: work 1 dc in next dc, dc next 3 dc’s together (dec made), work 1 dc in each of the next 26 dc, , dc next 3 dc’s together, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st’s, ( 32 dc) ch 3 and turn
Increase row  (shape shoulders)
Working row 4 in back loops only

Row 4: work 1 dc in next 7 dc, work 4 dc’s in each of the next 2 st’s (inc made),work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc’s, work 2 dc’s into each of the next 4 dc’s (inc made), work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc’s, work 4 dc’s in each of the next 2 st’s (inc made) work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (48 dc) ch 3 and turn

Increase row
Row 5: work 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 16 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn

 Picture, end of row 5
 
Row 6: work 1 dc in each dc to end, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn


Working row 7 in front loops only
Shape arm holes
Row 7: work 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, skip the next 12 dc,  work 1 dc in each of the next 16 dc, skip the next 12 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (32 dc) ch 3 and turn

You will now be working the back and front panels in one piece
Row 8:  work 1 dc in each dc to end, (32 dc) ch 3 and turn

Repeat row 8, 4 more times, change to contrasting color and chaining 1 sc to turn on last row (row 12)

Special Instructions Before Beginning The Edge Trim: This is just a guide, go to row 13 to begin the edge trim (after the next picture).
Working sc in contrast color #1, sc along the bottom edge, #2,  sc up right hand side, #3, sl st across collar, #4, sc along left hand side and making a ch 2 for 3 button loops and sc to end


Begin Edge Trim
Row: 13 work 1 sc in each dc to last dc, work 2 sc in this dc, (right edge) working 2 sc in the side of a dc and 1 sc in the side of a ch 3 (approx 16 sc) to the sc space of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, sl st loosely across the beginning chains of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, work down left the hand side the same way as you did the right hand side, stopping at the front loop row to make first button loop, work 1 sc, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 3 spaces, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 3 spaces, ch 2,  (3 button loops) work 1 sc in same sequence as before to end of the side, work 1 sc in the same space as the first sc made, sl st to next st,  finish off yarn

Adding the sleeves

Left sleeve
Row 1:  (turn garment up side down, with the front facing you) join in yarn to the same back loop of the last dc worked, ch 3, work 1 dc in the back loops of the next 12 dc, work 1 dc in the same back loop of the next dc, work 1 dc in the side of the next dc, work 1 dc in the space as the dc you just worked into the side of, work 1 dc in the side of the next dc, (17 dc) sl st to top of ch 3 to join round (if you are out a st that’s okay)

Row 2: ch 3, work 1 dc in each dc around, (17 dc) sl st to top of ch 3 to join round

Row 3: repeat row 2

Row 4: ch 1 work 1 sc into top of ch 3 and in each st around, sl st to first sc to join round (17 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, work 1 sc into each sc around, sl st to first sc to join round (17 sc)
Change to contrasting color
Row 6: ch 1 work 1 sc in each st around, sl st to join finish off

Right sleeve
Row 1:  (turn garment up side down, with the back facing you) repeat instructions as per left sleeve

Buttons
Sew buttons onto the right hand side, making sure they are evenly placed, opposite the ch 2 button loops


You can find Little Miss Pink Puff Here

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

Sunday, July 31, 2011

Crochet The Tezzie Hat

The Tezzie Hat

Look for me on Face Book And Like My Page More Free Patterns

Close up of the Tezzie stitch

The Tezzie hat with the hat edge completed


HAVE YOU MADE A TEZZIE HAT?
CONTACT ME TO PLACE YOUR PICTURE IN THIS POST


Clorinda Espinoza made this rasta version.
 


Hook size: AU 4.00mm. US G/6
Yarn ply: AU 8 ply. US 4 ply approx 50 gm’s
Tension: See basic crown
US terms used
Beginner +
St’s used:
Ch= chain
Sl st= slip st
Sc= single crochet
Dc= double crochet
Fpdc=front post double crochet
Bpdc= back post double crochet
Trbl= treble
Fptrbl= front post treble
Introduction: Hat pattern is worked over 3 rows. 
The set up row,

the pattern stitch row,

the completion row

Special stitch= 4 fptrbl’s worked around the 2nd dc of the skipped dc of the row below

The stitch count for the pattern is over 6 st’s and repeated around
 
To begin complete the basic dc crown for the size you want, the beginning ch 3 is counted as a stitch
Pattern rows:

Row 1: ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, ch4, skip next 4 dc, *work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, ch 4, skip next 4 dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 2: ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, work 4 fptrbl’s around the 2nd skipped dc of the row below, *working back on this row, work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, work 4 fptrbl’s in the 2nd skipped dc of the row below,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 3: ch 3, work 1 dc in each stitch around, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round, please count your dc’s, you should have the same amount of dc’s as you did before you began the pattern rows

For both small and medium to large size hat, repeat pattern 3 more times (4 times in all, 12 rows in total)

 Height with out the hat edge, slightly stretched, is approx 8 inches high

Begin hat edge: the beginning ch 3 will not be counted as a st

Row 1: ch 3, work a fpdc around same st, work a bpdc around next dc, *work a fpdc around the next dc, work a bpdc around the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, making sure to end with a bpdc, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 2: ch 3, *work a fpdc around the fpdc, work a bpdc around the bpdc* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join round

Your hat, (slightly stretched) should now be approx 9 inches in height, you can finish off here or repeat row 2 of hat edge for a higher hat height


The pattern stitch can be worked into any hat that is devisable by 6 dc, such as 12, 24, 36, 48 and so on. 




Another great video tutorial by Bobwilson123 visit her on face book or you tube for more free video tutorials! Thanks Bob!



Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Crochet Basic DC Crown



The basic dc crown can be used for the beginning of many hat designs.
The measurements given are an approximate as many yarns will differ from brand to brand.
I am using an AU 8 ply yarn (US 4 ply) and a 4.00mm hook (US G/6)
 The crochet terms I use are US
I will be giving instructions for a small adult and medium to large adult, both reflecting woman's sizes.
Stitches used are:
chain
DC= double crochet
Sl st= slip stitch
Tension: see pictures below for measurements
Notes: the beginning ch 3 is counted as a dc.

To begin: Ch 4 or make a magic ring
Row 1.Work 11 dc into 4th chain from hook, sl st to join in top of ch 3. (12 dc)...(or work ch 3 and 11 dc into the magic ring)
Row 2. Ch 3, work 1 dc in same place as ch 3, work 2 dc in each dc around, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (24 dc)
Row3.  Ch 3, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (36 dc)
Row 4. Ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (48 dc)
Row 5. Ch 3, work 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (60 dc)
Stop increasing here for a small adult hat.
Row 6. Ch 3, work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (72 dc)
Stop increasing here for a medium to large adult hat 
You are now ready to work with out increasing.

Work 1 dc in each st around, sl st to join in top of ch3.
Repeat above round with out increasing for hat height desired.

You also have the option to use a stitch pattern in the hat, once the crown has been established.
If you choose to do this you will need a stitch pattern that is dividable by the amount of st's you already have.
  Keeping in mind that you will be joining the pattern round.
It will not matter too much if you need to increase/decrease a stitch or 2 for this to happen.
The average hat height is about 9 inches or 11 inches with a folded brim.


 We can also work the crown rounds in multiples of 10 dc's, this is particularly useful for the in between sizes and varied tensions.
Using the instructions above begin with 10 dc, increasing in rows to 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70.
 
Once again a big thank you to Bobwilson123 for an excellent learning video tutorial!


I hope that you have found these instructions useful.
Please like me on face book or and comment on my face book page for more user information.
I am always more than happy to help.

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Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Tunisian Entrelac Stitch Count

I am writing this post to keep some information stored for myself and for others who may need it too.
I happened across a video tutorial made by Bethintx1 (her you tube channel).
The video was a crochet along making an afghan with the tunisian entrelac method.
The out come of her afghan was just lovely.
But I wanted to down size my project and just followed along for 3 rounds and a, half squares round for my face cloth.
The next face cloth I did I made some improvements on and I did a sc border, simple but it looked nicer, so I went back to my first one and did the same thing.
I really wanted to know the break down of the stitch count, so I could make other shapes and items with this pattern.
I asked the professional, Beth!
I had this st count. 
( 2 diamonds = 21 chain, 3 diamonds = 31chain, 7 diamonds = 71 chain...) think I found it, cheers Cat :)
This is the st count and explanation she gave me.
 10 for the square and one for the joining chain between the squares. so if you start with 7 squares, it would be 70, plus 6; because there are six joinings between the 7 squares.



(2 diamonds= 21 chains, 3 diamonds 32 chains, 4 diamonds = 43 chains, etc. )

I am officially excited to have the formula.
Below is the beginning of the video tutorial I crocheted along with, thank you Beth.