Ocean Breeze

OCEAN BREEZE

a versatile free crochet hat pattern
messy bun/pony tail options included in pattern 

Introduction: The crochet stitch pattern consists of the Herringbone stitch and the front post double crochet stitch. The front post double crochet stitch separates each Herringbone around the hat which in return gives a lovely textured pattern with little fuss. You also have the option to leave an opening for a messy bun or pony tail. 

The hat begins being made at the the brim and finishes at the crown.
Once the first few rows are completed, the hat pattern repeats it's self through out, making it an easy pattern to make once you get going.

Herringbone meaning:  a pattern consisting of columns of short parallel lines, with all the lines in one column sloping one way and all the lines in the next column sloping the other way so as to resemble the bones in a fish, for example as used in the weave of cloth. See bottom of post for a you tube video of the herringbone stitch.

Size, small to med. The pattern is a 6 stitch repeat, to make a large hat, add a count of 6 ch for a total of 54 chain and adjust round count as needed.
Materials needed:

5 mm hook (US H-8)

10 ply (US Aran weight) yarn

Approx 50 gm's of each color

Experience: Beginner +
Time: Approx 2 hours +

Stitches used: US terminology

Ch = chain

Sl st = slip stitch
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Dc = double crochet
Fpdc = front post double crochet

Dec = decrease

Shell =  (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc = shell made)

Half Shell = (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc = half shell)

Fpdc dec = work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made)

With main color
Make a chain of 48, sl st to form a ring

Notes: the beginning ch 2 of each round is not counted as a st.
Round 1. Ch 2, work 1 dc in same space as sl st, work 1 dc in each ch st, sl st to top of beginning dc to join round (48 dc)

Notes: Try on your work, if it is too small repeat the above steps with a larger hook. This 1st round may also be a little loose, this is fine as we correct the tension later on in the pattern in the final steps.

Begin Pattern:

Round 2. Ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st dc, skip 2 dc's, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc = shell made) in next dc, skip 2 dc's, *work 1 dc in next dc, skip 2 dc's, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc = shell made ) in next dc, skip 2 dc's* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning dc to join round

Join in contrasting color and work with contrasting on every odd row/every alternate row.

Round 3. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st dc, work 1 dc in same st that the shell st of the row below was made in, work (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc = half shell) in the ch 2 space of the shell, work 1 dc in same st that the shell st of the row below was made in, *work 1 fpdc around the 1 dc, work 1 dc in same st that the shell st of the row below was made in, work (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc = half shell) in the ch 2 space of the shell, work 1 dc in same st that the shell st of the row below was made in, * repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round

In the picture below, looking at the blue yarn only, there is 1 fpdc, followed by a completed herringbone, 1 fpdc and the beginning of the next herringbone

With main color.
Round 4. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st fpdc, work 1 dc in same st that the half shell st of the row below was made in, work (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc = half shell) in the ch 2 space of the half shell,  work 1 dc in same st that the half shell st of the row below was made in, *work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in same st that the half shell st of the row below was made in, work (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc = half shell) in the ch 2 space of the half shell,  work 1 dc in same st that the half shell st of the row below was made in, * repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round

Repeat round 4 until work measures approx 6 inches (about 14 rounds in total) 

Working on crown with main color:
Round 1. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st fpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc st's of the half shell, work 1 dc in the ch 2 space, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc st's of the half shell, *work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc st's of the half shell, work 1 dc in the ch 2 space, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc st's of the half shell*, repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round (48 st's)
Round 2. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st fpdc, work 1 fpdc around each st of the round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round (48 fpdc's)

Begin decreases: Dec 5th and 6th st's tog
Round 3. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st fpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 3 fpdc's, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made), *work 1 fpdc around each of the next 4 fpdc's, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made),* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round (40 st's)

Dec 4th and 5th st's tog
Round 4. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st fpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 fpdc's, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made), *work 1 fpdc around each of the next 3 fpdc's, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made),* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round (32 st's)
Dec 3rd and 4th st's tog
Round 5. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st fpdc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made), *work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 fpdc's, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made),* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round (24 st's)
Note: if you want a messy bun hat/pony tail hat, finish off yarn and sew in ends. Option 2. work 1 sc in each st around and sl st to join (thus giving a firmer ring)

 
Dec 2nd and 3rd st's tog
Round 6. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st fpdc, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made), *work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made),* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round (16 st's)

Dec 1st and 2nd st's tog
Round 7. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made),* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round (8 st's), break off yarn leaving a long tail to sew remaining 8 st's closed.

Hat edge: please read both options, this will tighten your hat edge slightly and make it neater.
Version 1. Join main color with a sl st into any stitch, make a sc st into each st of the hat edge, sl st to 1st stitch to join round (48 sc)
Round 2. ch 1, work 1 sc into the back loop only of each sc of the round, sl st to 1st stitch to join round (48 sc). finish off and sew in ends.

Version 2. will give the hat more length. Repeat the above instructions with the hdc stitch instead of the sc stitch.
 

Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cathy Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

2017.

You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern

I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use

Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Link to the Herringbone stitch on you tube.

Crochet A Light Shade

A very cheap alternative to buying a light shade.

Make one yourself with a small amount of yarn, old beads and an existing light shade.

I chose some woolen yarn and began with a single crochet foundation row

I kept placing it around the light shade until if fit, then joined it into a circle.

To get the round to stay in a circular shape I had to make sure the stitch count was dividable by the number 6.

I did a couple of rounds of sc, then placed a shell st into 6 places.

My stitch count for this was 54, 6 x 9 = 54, so every 9th stitch had a shell st placed into it.

The next round consisted of a sc on each side of the shell st and chains replaced the remaining sc stitches.

My pattern went like this.

1 sc, ch 6, skip 6 sc, 1 sc, make a shell in next st, repeat all the way around then join the round.

The following rounds went like this

1 sc, ch 6, 1 sc, make a shell, repeat all the way around, then join.

The very first thing I did was clean the light shade, then began making the new shade.

I had to block it so it would sit nice, I just used the good old iron.

Then I added some beads from an old necklace, they had their own rings which I hooked through a crochet stitch.

My granddaughter loved it once the beads were added, she now has her own type of chandelier in her bedroom.

Now I know I can do it, I can get more daring and make another even more spectacular!

The Dragon Scale-Infinity Cowl-Free Crochet Pattern

 How will You Wear Your Dragon Scale Infinity Cowl?

You can find the free crochet pattern for the matching hat here

Introduction: Whilst I was making this design and up to a second repeat of crocheting the pattern, I took some time to observe it closely and was not exactly pleased with the way it was looking. I turned it sideways and upside down and concluded that the pattern I was trying to make was not working out, it was quite by chance that I turned the work inside out and discovered a whole new look, the wrong side looked great. So it was straight back to the pattern instructions to make it work.

What is also great about this pattern are the instructions, they are so minimal. This design also reminds me of the crocodile stitch, but without the awkwardness of that particular stitch. Enjoy this free crochet pattern!

The infinity cowl begins with a chain, then that chain is joined and you work the cowl in the round, just like you do with a hat

To fit: Adult
Hook size, 4mm US G/6

Yarn: 8 ply approx 150 to 200 gm’s US DK/Medium.

US crochet terms used

Skill level: beginner +

Tension: medium

Time: 4 hours

Stitches used:

Sl st=slip stitch

Ch=chain

Sc = single crochet

Hdc= half double crochet

Dc =double crochet

Fpdc=front post double crochet

Special stitch: Shell st, (1 dc, 1 ch) x 6 times and 1 more dc in the same stitch

Chain 224, join last chain to first chain to form a ring (this will give you a wrap of twice around, if you want a longer wrap increase with multiples of 8 ch)

Row 1, ch 1, work 1 sc in 1^st st, skip 3 st’s, work a shell in next st, skip 3 st’s, *work 1 sc in next st, skip 3 st’s, work a shell in next st, skip 3 st’s* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into beginning sc of this round (28 shells)

 Row 2, ch 2, work 1 dc in same space as ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the 2^nd and 3^rd dc (= 1 fpdc), ch 2, work 1 sc in the next dc, ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 dc (= 1 fpdc), *work 1 dc in the sc, work 1 fpdc around the 2^nd and 3^rd dc, ch 2, work 1 sc in the next dc, ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 dc*, * repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into beginning dc

Row 3, ch 4, work (1dc, ch 1) 2 times in same space as ch 4 and work 1 dc in same space, work 1 sc in next sc, *skip the next 2 fpdc, work a shell in the next dc, work 1 sc in the next sc* repeat from *to* to end, work (1 dc, 1 ch) x 3 times, in the same space as the beginning ch 4, to join, sl st into the 3^rd ch space

Row 4, ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as ch 1, ch 2, work 1 fpdc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in the next sc, work 1 fpdc around the 2^nd and 3^rd dc, ch 2, *work 1 sc in the next dc, ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in the next sc, work 1 fpdc around the 2^nd and 3^rd dc, ch 2*, repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into beginning sc

Row 5, ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as ch 1, skip the next 2 fpdc, work a shell in the next dc, *work 1 sc in the next sc, skip the next 2 fpdc, work a shell in the next dc* repeat from *to* end, to join, sl st into beginning sc of this round

Row 6, repeat row 2

Row 7, repeat row 3

Row 8, repeat row 4

Row 9, repeat row 5

Row 10, repeat row 2

Row 11, repeat row 3

Row 12, repeat row 4

Row 13, repeat row 5

Row 14, repeat row 2

Making the edge, turn your work

Row 1, ch 1, *work 1 hdc in each of next 2 fpdc, work 1 hdc in ch space, work 1 hdc in next sc, work 1 hdc in ch space, work 1 hdc in each of next 2 fpdc, work 1 hdc in next dc*, repeat from *to* to end, to join sl st into beginning hdc

Row 2, ch 1, work 1 sc in each st to end, to join sl st into beginning sc, finish off this side and sew in loose ends

Making the other edge,

Row 1, attach yarn to other edge of work, ch 2, work 1 hdc in each ch loop of the beginning chain row, to join sl st into beginning hdc, (I found it easier to go over the chain in most places) you should end up with 224 st’s, but a close enough stitch count, is good enough

Row 2, ch 1, work 1 sc in each st to end, to join sl st into beginning sc, finish off this side and sew in loose ends

 Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

 2014.

You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern

I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use

Please link back to this pattern if you use it

The Dragon Scale – Adult Hat – Free Crochet Pattern

 The Dragon Scale

Introduction: Whilst I was making this design and up to a second repeat of crocheting the pattern, I took some time to observe it closely and was not exactly pleased with the way it was looking. I turned it sideways and upside down and concluded that the pattern I was trying to make was not working out, it was quite by chance that I turned the hat inside out and discovered a whole new look, the wrong side looked great! So it was straight back to the pattern instructions to make it work. What is also great about this pattern are the instructions, they are so minimal. This design also reminds me of the crocodile stitch, but without the awkwardness of that particular stitch. Enjoy!

This is also available in newborn to 3 months, click here for the free pattern

 You can find the free pattern for the matching infinity cowl here

Hook size: 3.5mm, 4.0mm, 4.5 mm to 5.0mm, US G/6

Please note, by using a smaller or larger hook, you can make a smaller or larger beanie

To fit: Adult

Yarn: 8 ply approx 100 gm’s US DK/Medium.

US crochet terms used

Skill level: beginner +

Tension: medium

Time: approx 2 hours

Stitches used:

Sl st=slip stitch

Ch=chain

Sc = single crochet

Hdc= half double crochet

Dc =double crochet

Fpdc=front post double crochet

Special stitch: Shell st, (1 dc, 1 ch) x 6 times and 1 more dc in the same stitch

I’m using a 3.5 mm hook, my head circumference measures approx, 17 inches around after row 6. I will increase for 1 more round (row 7), to achieve my adult size hat, between, 18.5 and 21.5 inches circumference. In saying this, my stitch pattern is an 8 stitch repeat, I have either 4 st’s too many or 4 too less with the 84 dc count. I will work 1 more round and add 4 extra st’s spaced randomly apart.

Please note! The beginning ch 2 of every rnd is not counted as a st.

BEGIN: Making the crown

Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring.
Row 1, ch 2, work 12 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1^st dc of this round, (you will join this way on every round)

(Increase in every st)

Row 2, ch 2, work 2 dc into each dc to end, sl st to join (24 dc)

(Increase in every 2nd st)
Row 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 2 dc into the next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*, repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (36 dc)
(Increase in every 3rd st)

Row 4, ch 1, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 2 dc into the next dc, * work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*,  repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (48 dc)
(Increase in every 4^th st)

Row 5, ch 1, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc, * work 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*,  repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (60 dc)

(Increase in every 5^th st)

Row 6, ch 1, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc, * work 1 dc into each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*,  repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (72 dc)

You have the option to increase to 84 st’s (increase in every 6^th st) to 96 st’s, (increase in every 7^th st), for a lovely beret/slouch, but these extra st’s will need to be decreased, the best place to do this is within the very first round of the hat edging

For a 3.5mm hook or beret/slouch only! (Increase in every 6^th st)

Row 7, ch 1, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc, * work 1 dc into each of the next 5 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*,  repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (84 dc)

Now turn your work, we will be working with the inside /wrong side of the hat facing us

Row 1, ch 1, work 1 sc in 1^st st, skip 3 st’s, work a shell in next st, skip 3 st’s, *work 1 sc in next st, skip 3 st’s, work a shell in next st, skip 3 st’s* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into beginning sc of this round  
Row 2, ch 2, work 1 dc in same space as ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the 2^nd and 3^rd dc, ch 2, work 1 sc in the next dc, ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 dc, *work 1 dc in the sc, work 1 fpdc around the 2^nd and 3^rd dc, ch 2, work 1 sc in the next dc, ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 dc*, * repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into beginning dc

Row 3, ch 4, work (1dc, ch 1) 2 times in same space as ch 4 and work 1 dc in same space, work 1 sc in next sc, *skip the next 2 fpdc, work a shell in the next dc, work 1 sc in the next sc* repeat from *to* to end, work (1 dc, 1 ch) x 3 times, in the same space as the beginning ch 4, to join, sl st into the 3^rd ch space

Row 4, ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as ch 1, ch 2, work 1 fpdc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in the next sc, work 1 fpdc around the 2^nd and 3^rd dc, ch 2, *work 1 sc in the next dc, ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in the next sc, work 1 fpdc around the 2^nd and 3^rd dc, ch 2*, repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into beginning sc

Row 5, ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as ch 1, skip the next 2 fpdc, work a shell in the next dc, *work 1 sc in the next sc, skip the next 2 fpdc, work a shell in the next dc* repeat from *to* end, to join, sl st into beginning sc of this round

Row 11, repeat row 2

Row 12, repeat row 3

Row 13, repeat row 4

Row 14, repeat row 5

Repeat pattern sequence for length desired

For a regular size hat repeat rows 11 to 14, two more times, then row 2 once more

For a slouch repeat for length required ending on a row 2.

Turn work right way out

Row 1, ch 1, *work 1 hdc in each of next 2 fpdc, work 1 hdc in ch space, work 1 hdc in next sc, work 1 hdc in ch space, work 1 hdc in each of next 2 fpdc, work 1 hdc in next dc*, repeat from *to* to end, to join sl st into beginning hdc (56 hdc)

Hat edge option 1

Row 2, ch 1, work 1 hdc in each hdc to end, to join, sl st into beginning hdc, finish, break off yarn and sew in ends or work for length desired

Hat edge option 2 ribbed look

Row 2, ch 1, work 1 dc in 1^st st, work 1 fpdc in next st, *work 1 dc in net st, work 1 fpdc in next st* repeat from *to* to end, to join sl st into the beginning dc, finish, break off yarn and sew in ends or work for length desired

Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

 2014.

You can sell your items made from this pattern

I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use

Please link back to this pattern if you use it

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