Cat’s One Piece Wonder, Baby Sweater/Cardigan 0 to 3 months

 Cat’s One Piece Wonder, Baby Sweater/Cardigan

Click here for printer friendly pattern, no pictures!

Front View 
One piece sweater

Sleeve length from collar to cuff, approx 8 inches, body length from collar to bottom edge approx 9 inches. note: garment will have some stretch depending on the yarn

 Back View

See notes at bottom of page for this pretty one
Free pattern, one piece sweater 3 to 6 months

My sweet grand daughter wearing the above one piece sweater, she is 2 weeks old and her name is Cindy.

Free Pattern, Matching One Piece Diaper Cover Found Here

Free pattern, matching one piece wonder booties, here

Introduction:  This sweater/cardigan is worked in one piece beginning at the right front side, then a sleeve, then the back, then another sleeve, then the left front which is made slightly wider than the right, this is for the over flap to button the sweater/cardigan. Then the sides and sleeves are joined, followed by a collar which brings it all in. The sweater/cardigan is reversible if you refer to button up on the opposite side.

The sleeve cuffs are included in the making of the sleeve.

The pattern is quite repetitive so you will get the hang of it in no time, it may be easier to count the dc rows of each panel, right front has 8 panels, sleeves have 17 panels, back has 17 panels, left front has 10 panels.

To fit: newborn to 3 months (larger sized pattern to come at a later date, now available one piece sweater size 3 to 6 months)

Hook size: 4.00mm. US G/6

Yarn: 8 ply, approx 150 gm’s. US DK/Medium

US crochet terms used

Crochet tension, medium

Skill, beginner

Time frame, either side of 6 hours

Stitches used:

Ch= chain

Sc= single crochet

Dc= double crochet

BL= back loop 

Sc 2 together= insert hook into first sc, pull up a loop, insert hook into second sc, pull up a loop,( 2 loops on hook) yarn over hook and pull through the 2 loops on hook. 

Special Instructions:

Unless working into a chain, every stitch in this pattern is worked into the back loop of every stitch

The chain 3 to turn is the first dc of every row worked

When working into the chain 3 go into the second chain and not the top of the chain 3, this gives a nice firm bottom edging

To begin ch 41

Remember to work in the back loop of every st unless it is a ch st.

Right Front:

Row 1. Work 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 8 ch, 1 dc in each ch to end (9 sc, 31 dc = 40 st’s) ch 3 and turn (ch 3 is the 1^st st of the next row and through out pattern)

Row 2. 1 dc in next 30 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 31 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 4. 1 dc in next 30 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Rows 5 to 8. Repeat rows 3 & 4 twice DO NOT BREAK OFF YARN

Right Sleeve:

Row 1. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 7 dc, ch 19, turn

Row 2. 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 3 ch, 1 dc in next 14 ch, 1 dc in next 7 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, (4 sc (cuff), 21 dc, 9 sc, = 34 st’s), ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 4. 1 sc in next 4 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 5. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 6. 1 sc in next 4 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Rows 7 to 18. Repeat rows 5 and 6, DO NOT BREAK OFF YARN

Back:

Row 1. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 7 dc, ch 26, turn

Row 2. 1 dc in 4^th ch from hook, 1 dc in next 22 ch, 1 dc in next 7 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc ( 31 dc and 9 sc) ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 31 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 4. 1 dc in next 30 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 5. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 31 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 6. 1 dc in next 30 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 7 to 18. Repeat rows 5 and 6, DO NOT BREAK OFF YARN

Left sleeve: (is a repeat of right sleeve)

Row 1. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 7 dc, ch 19, turn

Row 2. 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 3 ch, 1 dc in next 14 ch, 1 dc in next 7 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, (4 sc (cuff), 21 dc, 9 sc, = 34 st’s), ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 4. 1 sc in next 4 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 5. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 6. 1 sc in next 4 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Rows 7 to 18. Repeat rows 5 and 6 DO NOT BREAK OFF YARN

Left Front:

Row 1. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 7 dc, ch 26, turn

Row 2. 1 dc in 4^th ch from hook, 1 dc in next 22 ch, 1 dc in next 7 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc ( 31 dc and 9 sc) ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 31 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 4. 1 dc in next 30 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 5. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 31 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 6 to 11. repeat rows 4 and 5, do not ch 3, now you can break off the yarn.

Putting it together:

Turn your one piece sweater, inside out, line up the back and side from the bottom, you can sc them together or a simple whip st, I did mine the sc way, make sure each st is matched up and secure them together all the way up to the cuff, repeat for the other side.

The collar: By this stage you will notice that the collar is too wide, so we have to pick up and crochet st’s around the collar.

You may see a few yarn joins in the pictures, but that is only because I was using recycled yarn from a jumper I frogged, a beautiful soft woolen jumper.

Row 1.Begin in the top corner of the right front, join yarn with a sl st and make 1 sc in same place, 1 sc in the next space, skip 1 space, 1 sc in next, all the way around, you will have approx 38 sc, ch 1 and turn ( no need for perfection here a st or 2 out will be fine)

 (this picture below, just shows the skipped space)

Row 2. *1 sc in next 2 sc, sc next 2 sc together (decrease made), 1 sc in next 2 sc, * repeat from *to* to end, finish off.

You may like to make the collar a row or 2 longer, you can do this with out decreasing.

Now if you haven’t already, get out that needle and sew in loose ends, add buttons to right front, as many that suits you.

Now you can be a little fancy and add some nice picot edging around the sleeves or collar, add a flower or even make it in a two tone color.

Note the spacing at the top of the front edge's where I have placed a button each side, this is the style of the sweater and I have added the 2 buttons for simple decoration.

Good luck with your one piece sweater, I’d love to hear your feed back.

Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too.

Below, made by Tina Soren, just lovely.

Cat's matching  one piece bootie pattern

Matching one piece diaper pattern

Wow, check this video tutorial out, thanks to Clare Sullivan a fellow Aussie that I met through face book. This must have been so time consuming and I really appreciate Clares time and wonderful comments.

Below is a demonstration of how this pattern can be quite versatile, my first choice was to go for a 2 tone color combo

I made 8 sc of the cream then 1sc of the pink so I would not have to change the colors on a sc to a dc, thus hiding the color change as much as I could.

I added 2 rows of sc to the cuff after finishing the one piece

I made an extra hdc row then a sc row on the very last panel ( left side)

Here it is before sewing in loose ends, I have lot's of joins as this is from recycled yarn.

This is the size difference between the 0 to 3 month pattern and the 3 to 6 month pattern one piece sweater

For the18 month old size, Please visit the WAY BACK MACHINE and enter this link.

 https://web.archive.org/web/20140209030557/https://celiamakesstuff.wordpress.com/2012/06/10/crochet-toddler-cardigan/

The date you are looking for is Feb 09, 2014.

Or read below for instructions, all credit on the larger size goes to Celia.

 

QUOTE from Celia:

It’s taken me a wee while to complete this version of Cat’s One Piece Wonder baby cardigan in a larger size for my 18 month old daughter.
Basically, I took the measurements off the baby one I made earlier, then increased the number of stitches to match up roughly with one of her current cardigans.

For those that are interested, here’s a brief description of what I did :

RIGHT FRONT:
ch 61.
Row 1: 15 sc (start in 2nd ch from hook), then 45 dc. Ch 3 and turn.
Row 2: 45 dc (ch 3 is the first dc), then 15 sc, ch 1 and turn.
Row 3: 15 sc (ch 1 is the first sc), then 45 dc. Ch 3 and turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until there are 18 rows.

 

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Row 1: 15 sc, 10 tc (treble crochet), then ch 46. (You can probably make it with fewer chains as the sleeves are a bit too long for my daughter!)
Row 2: 7 sc (start in 2nd ch from hook), then 47 dc, 15 sc. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3: 15 sc (ch 1 is the first sc), 47 dc, 7 sc, ch1 and turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until Row 19 (18 rows of dc/sc stitches in total).

BACK:
Row 1: 15 sc, 10 tc, ch 38.
Row 2: Starting in 4th ch from hook, 45 dc, then 15 sc. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3: 15 sc (ch 1 is the first sc), 45 dc. Ch 3 and turn.
Row 4: 45 dc (ch 1 is the first dc), 15 sc. Ch 1 and turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 31 rows across.

LEFT SLEEVE:

Same as right sleeve.

LEFT FRONT:

Same as right front, except only 15 rows across.

Row 16 (starts at top of cardigan for button holes): ch 3, skip a stitch, then 13 dc. Ch 3, skip a stitch, then 10 dc. Ch 3 skip a stitch, then 10 dc. Ch 3 skip a stitch, then 10 dc. Ch 3 skip a stitch, then 10 dc. (Should make 6 buttonholes in total).

PUTTING IT TOGETHER:
I followed the rest of Cat’s One Piece Wonder instructions.

For the collar, I added 1 extra row of sc to make it longer, then another row with 11 sc until the fold of the sleeve, then dcs along the back until the other sleeve fold, then 11 sc to the front.

Hopefully that makes sense for anyone who cares!! (And for me when I try to figure out what I did.)

Mugdawan Hardy‎ 

"Thank you for your free pattern. I used it to crochet these sweaters and sent them out to a hospital in memory of my granddaughter."

A few more from ravelry users.

AkLady's

ChloeNY's

Myhobbyiscrochet's

 

jaye-yarns' A.N.

 

Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern

I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use

Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Google

Old Sweater, New Bag, Recycling Fun.

I've seen used felted sweaters and T Shirt's re-made into a bag, so I thought I'd give it a go too.

 The sleeve's and neck are cut off to begin with.

 The shape of the neck and arm holes are cut more for fine tuning of the shaping of the bag to be.

 The sides of the sweater are now the very center of the front and back of the bag to be. The bottom hem is now ready for sewing.

 Sewing completed.

 The bag is taking some shape, but is too bland.

I crocheted a divider in the center of the bag.

I found some felted pieces that I was to use for another project that didn't suit that project but looked okay for this one.

After applying the applique's and crocheting around the bag handles to neaten it up, I now have an original bag made by me.

 Now I have to test it out, roll on shopping day.

Crochet Plaid Scarf Neck/Warmer

I've seen the plaid used in an afghan and loved it, so I thought I'd play around with it on a smaller level, such as the neck warmer, the only thing is, that you don't have much room for the utmost effect of the plaid.

This is the simple formula I used for my neck warmer.

Grid completed.

The weaving.

Finished weaving.

The tool I used for easy weaving, a crochet hook, some fishing line and some gaffa tape to secure it. The eye of my so called weaving tool, carry's many strands of yarn at once. This is secured to the bottom of my crochet hook.

Some recent finished crochet projects

You may remember my child's, hdc ear flap hat pattern . I used this pattern to make a cute pink one for my daughter who is expecting a baby girl in June and I added some strawberry applique's for cuteness, which I found here

 I just used a smaller hook to make it a smaller hat.

I also finished my heart square baby blanket too, you can see where it began here and find the heart graph there too.

 Thanks for looking.

Crochet Cable Stitch Neck warmer

Simple Quick Crocheted Cable Neck warmer

8 ply yarn approx 30 gm’s

4.00 mm hook

US terms used

2 Buttons

Tension not required

Size Adult

Time 2 to 4 hours

Stitches used:

ch, dc, 

bpdc (back post dc)

Yarn over, insert hook from the back side of the work right to left around the post of the indicated stitch on a previous row;
yo and pull up a loop (3 lps on hk)
yo and draw through two lps (2 lps on hk)
yo and draw through two lps (1 lp on hk)

fpdc (front post dc) (dc = yo once)

Yarn over, insert hook from the front side of the work right to left around the post of the indicated stitch on a previous row;
yo and pull up a loop (3 lps on hk)
yo and draw through two lps (2 lps on hk)
yo and draw through two lps (1 lp on hk)

bptr (back post triple )

Yarn over twice, insert hook from the back side of the work right to left around the post of the indicated stitch on a previous row;
yo and draw up a lp (4 lps on hk)
yo and draw through two lps (3 lps on hk)
yo and draw through two lps (2 lps on hk)
yo and draw through two lps (1 lp on hk)

 

fptr (front post triple) (triple = yo twice)

Yarn over twice, insert hook from the front side of the work right to left around the post of the indicated stitch on a previous row;
yo and draw up a lp (4 lps on hk)
yo and draw through two lps (3 lps on hk)
yo and draw through two lps (2 lps on hk)
yo and draw through two lps (1 lp on hk)

Special notes:

Turning ch 3 is counted as first dc in every row

Ch 18

1. Work 1 dc in 4^th ch from hook and each ch across, ch 3 and turn (15 dc and 1 ch 3 = 16 dc)

Work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 bpdc in next 2 dc, work 1 dc in next 4 dc, work 1 bpdc in next 2 dc, work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn

2. Work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 fpdc in next 2 dc, work 1 dc in next 4 dc, work 1 fpdc in next 2 dc, work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn

Cable start:

Special notes:

The centre 4 dc will form the cable by using the fptr st and by working them in the order of the 3^rd dc, then the 4^th dc, then the 1^st dc, then the 2^nd dc.

 Front view

 Back view

3. Work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 bpdc in next 2 dc, work 1 fptr in 3^rd dc from the last bpdc worked, work 1 fptr in next dc, work 1 fptr in the dc next to the last bpdc worked, work 1 fpdc in next dc, work 1 bpdc in next 2 bpdc, work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn

4. Work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 fpdc in next 2 dc, work 1 bpdc in next 4 st’s, work 1 fpdc in next 2 dc, work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn

5. Work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 bpdc in next 2 dc, work 1 fptr in 3^rd dc from the last bpdc worked, work 1 fptr in next dc, work 1 fptr in the dc next to the last bpdc worked, work 1 fpdc in next dc, work 1 bpdc in next 2 bpdc, work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn

6. Work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 fpdc in next 2 dc, work 1 bpdc in next 4 st’s, work 1 fpdc in next 2 dc, work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn

Repeat last 2 rows until work measures approx 17 inches (or length desired) finishing on a row 6.

1. Work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 bpdc in next 2 dc, work 1 dc in next 4 dc, work 1 bpdc in next 2 dc, work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn

2. Work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 fpdc in next 2 dc, work 1 dc in next 4 dc, work 1 fpdc in next 2 dc, work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 1 dc in top of ch 3, ch 1 and turn

3. Work 1 sc in every st across, fin off.

Sew in yarn ends, attach buttons and wear :) 

 my neck warmer un buttoned

 My neck warmer buttoned up

You may also like this neck warmer, Which Stitch Neck Warmer 

Crochet Baby Dress

We are almost certain that my daughter is expecting a baby girl and I have the most beautiful patterns for baby dresses, the 2 I have made are from the pattern book Beautiful Baby Boutique pictured below.

 I made the one from the front cover, Tulip Time and another one called Pink Parfait.

Hope you like them.

Crochet Mario

After making the crochet Yoshi's for my grand sons it was now onto a crochet Mario, as soon as I made the first Mario every body wanted one, so I have now made 3 Mario's and have more requests for a Yoshi and a Luigi too. Mind you it was great fun making them and I don't mind making more. Mario is an old friend of mine, I have been playing him for years.

Below is the picture of my very first Mario.

Now these are the second Mario's I made, but I changed the shoe, it has a yellow sole and a brown upper shoe, I placed cut up plastic from an ice cream lid and put it into the bottom of his shoes before stuffing.

And here are the 2 Mario's completed, one is a little plumper than the other.

If you want to make Mario and use my shoe method I will put the pattern below. I also made the bib for his overalls then attached the shoulder straps. I hand sewed the Mario M onto the hat too, made one hat a bigger size just to see what it looked like.

Pattern for Mario Shoe.

shoe is worked in the round, do not join rounds.

Beginning at sole

Using sole color:

1. Work 8sc into a magic ring (8 sc)

2.work 2 sc in each sc around (16 sc)

3. work 1 sc in first sc, work 2 sc in next sc, *work 1 sc in next sc. work 2 sc in next sc* rep from *to* around (24 sc)

Change to brown for upper shoe:)

4. Work 1 sc in each sc around (24)

5. Working in back loops only, work 1 sc in each sc around (24 sc)

Now decrease shoe

6. Work 1 sc in 9 sc , sc 2 together 3 times, work 1 sc in next 9 sc

7. Work 1 sc in next 8 sc, sc 2 tog, 1 sc in next sc, sc 2 tog, 1 sc in next 8 sc

8. Work 1 sc in next 5 sc, sc 2 tog twice, 1 sc in next sc, sc 2 tog twice, 1 sc in next 5 sc

9. Work 1 sc in next 3 sc, sc 2 tog twice, 1 sc in next sc, sc 2 tog twice, 1 sc in next 3 sc

stuff shoe

10. sl st into 2nd sc and finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

I hope that you have fun when you make your Mario's, Yoshi's or Luigi.