Click on the picture for this pattern

Click on the picture for this pattern
Click on the picture for this pattern

Sunday, April 20, 2014

Robyn's Beret Crochet Hat Pattern



Crochet Hat Pattern For Robyn's Beret

Side View Crochet Hat Pattern Robyn's Beret

Front View Crochet Pattern Robyn's Hat


Introduction: I have called this crochet hat pattern, Robyn's Beret as it was made for my sister-in-law Robyn. She gave me 2 bags of yarn that she decided she would not use and asked if I could just make her something to keep her neck warm. I made the neck warmer first and I just knew that I had to make a matching hat for it. I was very pleased with the way the hat turned out, I knew I would have to write a pattern for it. I also received a very strong and positive response to the hat on my Face Book page.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank my Face Book page likes, so thank you so very much!
Small Pink Crochet Hat Pattern

I made Robyn's hat with a specialty yarn that is no longer available, so I had to make and write the hat pattern for a readily available yarn choice.
The gold color is French Oak #7.7, the pink color is called Sweet Ribbon #7.14
filati yarn for the crochet hat pattern

Also if you take a close look at the pink hat above you will be able to see the subtle stitch pattern that I used in both versions.
I have even drawn the stitch diagram for those of you who prefer the stitch diagram, the pattern is in multiples of  9 st's.

crochet hat pattern graph



























I wanted to show you yet another way the crochet hat pattern will look with a combination of a plain and variegated yarn. *I have used the plain yarn for the crown, the simple pattern row and the sc row of the hat edge*.
*The variegated yarn is used in the body of the hat on the hdc rows and in the bpsc rows of the hat edge*.
You may find this information useful as the hat pattern does not refer to color changes.

close up hat pattern 













 
The crochet hat pattern is available in SIZES, small, medium and large.
This was also the very first time I was able to use an American brand yarn that I purchased off the shelf here in Australia!
red hear yarn 10 ply

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Materials:
Hook sizes: AU 5 mm, 6mm US H/8, J/10
Yarn: 10 ply, US 4 medium approx 100 gms
Sewing needle
Experience: Beginner +
Time: Approx 2 hours
Stitches Used:
Sc = single crochet
Bpsc = back post single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Bphdc = back post half double crochet
Dc = double crochet
Fpdc = front post double crochet
Special instructions: for the simple pattern row, you will skip 2 st's and make a dc in the third st, then you will go back and work into the skipped st's with a hdc, YOU MUST come from behind the dc to work into the 1st skipped st, then the next skipped stitch. 

We begin making the hat pattern at the crown.

To Begin Hat Pattern: For the large size you will use the 6 mm hook. For all other sizes you will use the 5mm hook.
The ch 1 or ch 2 at the beginning of the rounds is not counted as a stitch
Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring 
Row 1, ch 2, work 12 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round (12 dc) 
Increase in every st 
Row 2, ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as join, work 1 fpdc around the same dc, *work 1 sc into next dc, work a fpdc around the same dc* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (12 dc, 12 sc) 
Increase in second st 
Row 3, ch 1, work 1 sc in same sc as join, work 2 fpdc's around the next fpdc, *work 1 sc in next sc,work 2 fpdc's around the next fpdc* repeat from *to * to end to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (24 dc, 12 sc) 
Increase in third st 
Row 4, ch 1, work 1 sc in same sc as join, work 1 fpdc around next fpdc, work 1 sc in next fpdc, work a fpdc around the same fpdc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in the next fpdc, work a fpdc around the same fpdc* repeat from *to * to end to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (24 dc, 24 sc)
No increases 
Row 5, ch 1, work 1 sc in same sc as join, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around next fpdc* repeat from *to * to end to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (24 dc, 24 sc) 
Increase in every fourth st 
Row 6, ch 1, work 1 sc in same sc as join, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 2 fpdc's around the next fpdc, * work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 2 fpdc's around the next fpdc* repeat from *to * to end to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (36 dc, 24 sc) 
Increase in every fifth 
Row 7, ch 1, work 1 sc in same sc as join, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next fpdc, work 1 fpdc in same fpdc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next fpdc, work 1 fpdc in same fpdc* repeat from *to * to end to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (36 dc, 36 sc) for small size stop increases here and go to row 8.
No increases and medium to large size only
Row A, (large size only) ch 1 work 1 sc in 1st sc, work 1 fpdc in next fpdc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc in next fpdc* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round 
Increase in every sixth, medium to large size only
Row B, ch 1, work 1 sc in same sc as join, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 2 fpdc's around the next fpdc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 2 fpdc's around the next fpdc* repeat from *to * to end to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (48 dc, 36 sc)
Medium to large size only
Row C, on this row only, decrease 3 st's anywhere in this round,
ch 1, work 1 sc in same sc as join, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 fpdc's, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 fpdc's* repeat from *to * to end to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (81 st's)
Medium to large size only
Row D, repeat row C with out the decreases (81 st's)
Small size only
Row 8, ch 1 work 1 sc in 1st sc, work 1 fpdc in next fpdc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 fpdc in next fpdc* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st sc of this round
Small size only
Row's 9, 10, 11 and 12, repeat row 8
All sizes
Row 13, ch 1, work 1 bpdhc around 1st and every st of this row, to join, sl st into the 1st hdc of this round
Row 14, ch 1, work 1 hdc in 1st st and every st of this round, to join, sl st into the 1st hdc of this round 
Row 15, repeat row 14
Pattern Stitch begins: 
Row 16, ch 1, work 1 hdc in 1st st, skip 2 st's, work 1 dc in next st, working from the back of the dc just made, work 1 hdc in 1st skipped st, work 1 hdc in 2nd skipped st, work 1 hdc in the st following the dc, skip 2 st's, work 1 dc in next st, working from the back of the dc just made, work 1 hdc in 1st skipped st, work 1 hdc in 2nd skipped st, work 1 hdc in the st following the dc, *work 1 hdc in next st, skip 2 st's, work 1 dc in next st, working from the back of the dc just made, work 1 hdc in 1st skipped st, work 1 hdc in 2nd skipped st, work 1 hdc in the st following the dc* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st hdc of this round
A simple break down for row 16, all sizes
Row 16, ch 1, 1 hdc in 1st st, skip 2 st's,  1 dc in next st,  1 hdc in 1st skipped st, 1 hdc in 2nd skipped st,  1 hdc in the st following the dc, skip 2 st's, 1 dc in next st,  1 hdc in 1st skipped st, 1 hdc in 2nd skipped st, 1 hdc in the st following the dc, *1 hdc in next st, skip 2 st's,  1 dc in next st,  1 hdc in 1st kipped st, 1 hdc in 2nd skipped st, 1 hdc in the st following the dc* repeat from *to* to end, to join, 

Row 17, ch 1, work 1 hdc in 1st st and every st of this round, to join, sl st into the 1st hdc of this round
Row 18, repeat row 16, pattern row 
Row 19, repeat row 17
Row 20, repeat row 16 pattern row 
Row 21, repeat row 17, for small size stop pattern row and go to hat edge rows
Medium to large size only
Row A, repeat row 16, pattern row 
Row B, repeat row 17
Row C,  being a Row 1, Hat Edge, you will now work 1 sc in each st and dec 1 st in very 6th st until there are 4 st's left, work 1 sc in each of the next 4 st's, join (70 st's) go to row 2 of the hat edge

How to single crochet in the back loops video tutorial available here
 
Hat Edge: 
Row 1, small size only, ch 1, work 1 sc in each st to end, join  
Row 2, to make the 1 st bpsc, come in from behind the ch 1, insert hook into the space between the ch 1 and the 1st sc and make the bpsc around the 1st sc, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, make join into the top of the 1st bpsc of the round
Row 3, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, join 
Row 4, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join 
Row 5, repeat row 3
Row 6, repeat row 4
Row 7, repeat row 3
Row 8, repeat row 4, you can make the hat a bit longer if you like, or finish off and sew in ends.


 Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cathy Wood
2014.
You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern
I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use
Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Saturday, April 19, 2014

Writing A Pattern For Speciality Yarn

If you write a pattern for a specialty yarn, it's best to make sure that the specialty yarn is readily available for purchase

If you do write a pattern for a specialty yarn, it's best to make sure that the yarn will be available for ease of purchase.
I recently made a hat and scarf set for my sister in law that deemed to be very popular, so I began to write a pattern for it, although the initial set I made was easy to make up, once I started writing the pattern for readily available yarn, I had to make many alterations to the original pattern. I knew that the specialty yarn was old stock and I was not able to recommend an alternative yarn for my readers to use. What made further difficulties for me was that I used a yarn ply I was not familiar with. You may be wondering why I did that. The reason being is that here in Australia , we have a nation wide department store that is now stocking Red Heart yarn! This was my first chance to use it in writing a pattern, this ply of yarn is universally available.
So I had lots of frogging and deleting/retyping text, this is all while I have a head cold too. What would have taken me 2 days at the most has become double that and all for the love of crochet.



This is the original crochet hat and scarf set, the buttons really set it off
free crochet pattern by cats-rockin-crochet





















I love the crocheted textures within the hat and scarf
free crochet pattern by cats-rockin-crochet



















The beginning crown of the hat, reminds me of an older style tupperware lid
free crochet pattern by cats-rockin-crochet


















I have 2 sizes almost completed with the Red Heart yarn
free crochet pattern by cats-rockin-crochet
















This is how I mapped out the pattern for the body of the hat pattern
free crochet pattern by cats-rockin-crochet














Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Rachelle's Hand Crocheted Treasures




I was almost blown away when I saw these pictures from Rachelle.
She has combined 2 of my free patterns for a matching baby set.
The one piece booties has been and still is one of the most used baby patterns that I designed, the baby rails hat pattern is a recent pattern that I wrote too. I think she is very clever putting the 2 patterns together, it's almost as if they were made for one another.
You can visit Rachelle's page on Face Book, she has a variety of hand made crochet goodies and I believe she does take orders for her hand made goodies too.  
Alternatively, you can visit Rachelle at her blog.
http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com.au/2014/04/baby-rails-free-crochet-pattern.html
http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com.au/2011/05/cats-one-piece-wonder-bootie-pattern.html

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Unisex, Teaser Slouch, Free Crochet Pattern



Introduction: The teaser slouch hat pattern is not only a unisex design, it has a unique simple stitch pattern that will keep you warm on the coldest of winter days. 

The hat can be made with an assortment of your favorite colors to match any existing fashion outfits that you have, or you can choose to make it in the one color, any color choice will still bring out the beauty of this pattern design.

Why did I call this stitch pattern the Teaser?

I felt like the stitch pattern was teasing me, just as I had established 2 rows of the pattern, I felt like the pattern was moving in one direction, then once I completed the next 2 rows of the pattern, it headed in the opposite direction and was giving an amazing and subtle decorative stitch pattern, it even feels amazing!


















The Stitch pattern is formed over 4 rows in total. The first 2 rows are the same as each other and the next 2 rows are the same as each other, so it will not be difficult to memorize the  pattern.The band of the hat is also duplicate rows.

The pattern stitch count is multiples of 2, so it can be adjusted very easily for any sizing. Let's say for instance you do not want a slouch and prefer a beanie/toque for an adult medium, you will  stop your increases at the stitch count of 72 for the crown, then continue on with the pattern instructions and also make it a shorter length for the beanie/toque.



















To fit: Adult, Male or Female
Yarn: 8 ply approx 200 gm’s US DK/Medium
Hook size: 4 mm US G/6
US crochet terms used
Skill level: beginner +
Tension: medium
Time: approx 4 hours
Stitches used:
Sl st=slip stitch
Ch=chain
Sc = single crochet
Hdc= half double crochet
Dc =double crochet
Bpsc = back post single crochet, there is a video tutorial on how to do the bpsc on the video's page of this blog.
Fpdc = front post double crochet 


Please note! the beginning chain 2,of the rounds are not counted as a stitch
To begin: working from the top of the hat and down to the hat edge

Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring
Row 1, ch 2, work 12 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round (12 dc)
Row 2, ch 1 work (1 hdc,1 dc) in each dc to end, join (24 st's)

Increase in every 2nd stitch
Row 3, ch 2 work 1 dc in 1st st, work (1 hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in next st, work (1 hdc,1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join (36 st's)

Increase in every 3rd stitch
Row 4, ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 dc in next st, work (1 hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in each of next 2 st's, work (1 hdc, 1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join (48 st's)
Increase in every 4th stitch

Row 5, ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in each of next 3 st's, (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join (60 st's)
Increase in every 5th stitch
 

Row 6, ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in each of next 4 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join,
(72 st's)

Increase in every 6th stitch 
Row 7, ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st, *work 1 dc in each of next 5 st's, work (1hdc, 1 dc) in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join,
(84 st's) finish of increases
Row 8, ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 hdc in next st, *1 dc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat from *to* to end, join
Pattern rows:
Working into dc stitches only
Row 9, ch 1 work (1 hdc into the eye of the 1st dc, work 1 fpdc around the same dc), skip next st, *work (1 hdc, 1 fpdc in next st), skip next st* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in the 1st dc of this rnd, (42 hdc, 42 dc)
Row 10, repeat row 9, to join, sl st into the 1st hdc of this round
Working into the hdc st's only
Row 11, ch 1, work (1 hdc, 1 fpdc) in the 1 st hdc of this round, skip next st, *work (1 hdc, 1 fpdc) in next st, skip the next st* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into the 1st hdc of this round (42 hdc, 42 dc)
Row 12, repeat row 11

Rows 9 to 12 form pattern.
Continue working pattern for a length of approx 9 inches (or your desired length)
Hat Edge:
Row 1, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 2, to make the 1 st bpsc, come in from behind the ch 1, insert hook into the space between the ch 1 and the 1st sc and make the bpsc around the 1st sc, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, make join into the top of the 1st bpsc
Row 3, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 4, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
Row 5,
ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 6, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
Row 7, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 8, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
Row 9, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 10, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
Row 11, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 12, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join
Row 13, ch 1 work 1 sc in each st to end, do not join
Row 14, work 1 bpsc in each st to end, join, you can finish off here or continue for length desired

























If you would like to see how I was able to carry my yarn whilst making the Teaser Slouch, just click on the picture below
http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com.au/2014/04/how-to-carry-non-working-yarn.html


Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood
2014.
You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern
I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use
Please link back to this pattern if you use it