Showing posts with label free pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label free pattern. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Fans Down Under-Free Crochet Pattern-Adult Size




Fans Down Under-Free Crochet Pattern-Adult Size



A decorative Beanie, Hat, Beret or Slouch


For Baby Version Free Crochet Pattern
For printer friendly version free crochet pattern no pictures. 

Introduction: With clever placements of the V stitch and 9 dc’s all in a row, a few sc’s and ch’s thrown in together, gives this pretty little stitch pattern a big tick. You will need a bit of concentration to begin with, but the pattern does repeat it’s self so it will become repetitive.



To fit: Adult, please read sizing guidelines supplied after row 8 of the crown and again at row 16 of the pattern rows.



Hook size: 3.5mm to 5.0mm, US G/6

Yarn: 8 ply approx 150 gm’s US DK/Medium.

US crochet terms used

Skill level: beginner +

Tension: medium

Time: approx 2 hours



Stitches used:

Sl st=slip stitch

Ch=chain

Sc = single crochet

Hdc= half double crochet

Dc =double crochet

Fpdc=front post double crochet

V st= (dc, ch 1, dc)



V stitch: The V stitch is (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc), worked into the st indicated by the pattern



We will be working with a hdc crown, this will give a longer pattern length within the hat. You are welcome to use dc’s instead.



Please note! The beginning ch 1 and ch 2 of every rnd is not counted as a st.



BEGIN:

Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring.


Row 1, ch 1, work 12 hdc into ring, sl st to join in the 1st hdc (you will join this way on every round)



(Increase in every st)

Row 2, ch 1, work 2 hdc into each hdc to end, sl st to join (24 hdc)



(Increase in every 3rd st)
Row 3, ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 2 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (32 hdc)


(Increase in every 4th st)

Row 4, ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 3 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (40 hdc)


(Increase in every 5th st)

Row 5, ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 4 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (48 hdc)



(Increase in every 6th st)

Row 6, ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 5 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (56 hdc)



Row 7, ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 6 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (64 hdc)



Row 8, ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 7 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (72 hdc)



This may be a good time for you to measure your crown.

I am using a 3.5 mm hook and an 8 ply yarn which is a little on the thin side and looks nicer if I use the 3.5 mm hook with it.

My crown, measures 17 inches around and 5 inches across, it is too small for an adult hat (it would fit a child at this size).

If your crown is larger you can stop increases here.

Approx, 18.5 inches for small adult, approx 21 inches for medium to large adult hat.

If you have the correct fit now, just work 1 hdc in each st around and join, and then go onto the pattern rounds.

You also have the option to increase from 88 st’s to 96 st’s, for a lovely beret/slouch, but these extra st’s will need to be decreased prior to the hat edging. Just follow the same formula above for the extra increases.



Row 9, ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 8 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (80 hdc)



My crown is now approx 18.5 inches around and 6 inches wide



Row 10, for the 80 hdc round, work 1 hdc in each st to end and sl st to join (80 hdc)



Begin Pattern Rows



Row 1, Ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as join, skip 3 st’s, work 9 dc’s in next st, skip 3 st’s,* work 1 sc in next st, skip 3 st’s, work 9 dc in next st, skip 3 st’s,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in beginning sc, (10 sc, 10 groups of 9 dc, or 1 less of each when using 72 dc crown)



Row2, Ch 4, work 1 dc in same space as ch 4, ch 1, work 1 sc in the 4th, 5th and 6th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1,* work a V st (V st =1dc, ch1, 1dc) in the sc, ch 1, work 1 sc in the 4th, 5th and 6th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the space between the beginning ch 4 and 1 dc (10 groups of 3 sc, 10 V’s or 1 less of each when using 72 dc crown)



Row 3, Ch 3, work 4 dc in same space as join, skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc, *work 9 dc in the V st space, skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc,* repeat from *to* to end, work 4 dc in same space as the beginning (ch 3 and 4 dc) sl st into the top of the ch 3



Row 4, Ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as ch 1, work 1 sc in next dc, ch 1, work a V st in the next sc, ch 1,*work 1 sc in the 4th, 5th and 6th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1, work a V st in the next sc, ch 1*, repeat from *to* to end, skip 3 dc, work 1 sc  in 4th dc, sl st into the 1st sc of this round, (30 sc, 10 V st’s)



Row 5, Ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as join, work 9 dc in the V st space, *skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 9 dc in the V st space,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the first sc of this round (10 sc, 10 groups of 9 dc)



Row 6, Repeat row 2

Row 7, Repeat row 3

Row 8, Repeat row 4

Row 9, Repeat row 5

Row 10, Repeat row 2

Row 11, Repeat row 3

Row 12, Repeat row 4

Row 13, Repeat row 5

Row 14, Repeat row 2

Row 15, Repeat row 3

Row 16, Repeat row 4



Once again take the time to measure your hat, if you want it longer repeat more pattern rows or make a longer ribbed edging as per following instructions. Just ensure you end with a row that has the V st in it.

My hat measures approx 8 inches in length now and I will begin my ribbed edging.

If you have made a beret/slouch you will need to decrease st’s over a couple of rows of plain dc rounds until you reach your fit, between 72 and 80 st’s for an adult size hat.

The decreases will be made in the reverse order as the increases, place a decrease where there was an increase.




MUST READ INSTRUCTIONS BELOW FOR CORRECT STITCH COUNT

I have counted each ch, sc and dc that I ended with, in row 15 of the pattern; I have 30 chain spaces, 30 sc and 20 dc, which add up to 80. Before I began the pattern rows, I had 80 st’s, and that is the exact amount of st’s I need to finish my hat edge with. If you had 64, 72, 80, 88 or 96 st’s you will get that stitch count by counting the same st’s as I did (each chain space, sc and dc).



Begin Simple Rib Hat Edge

The beginning ch 3 of each row is not counted as a stitch

Row 1, Ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in every dc, ch space and sc of the round (st count as per instructions)

Row 2, Ch 3, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end

Row 3, Repeat row 2, 1 more time or for length desired

I find that once I have finished my ribbed rows it can tend to curl slightly, so I work 1 more round of 1 hdc in each dc of the round then finish off and tie in ends.





Free Crochet Pattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood
Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.
 2014.

You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern
I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use
Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Friday, January 31, 2014

Free Crochet Hat Pattern Round Up


This Is A Free Pattern Round Up
All Of My Very Own
Each Free Hat Pattern 
Was Written By Me
And Is Available 
Right Here On My Blog
Free For You To Use
Which One Would You Make And Wear?
Free Pattern Links Provided Below

In no particular order, here are the links


Beret with a simple cable stitch. Free Crochet Pattern here.


Ripple Stitch Hat. Free Crochet Pattern Here

Beret with a simple cross stitch. Free Crochet Pattern Here

(2 Free Patterns) Chunky Beret and 
Three Season's Beret. Free Crochet Pattern Here

Crochet Tezzie Hat. Free Crochet Pattern Here
  
Crochet Crocodile Stitch Hat. Free Crochet Pattern Here

Crochet Catherine Wheel Hat. Free Crochet Pattern Here

Which Stitch Hat. Free Crochet Pattern Here.

If I was to pick a hat that I am most proud of, I would say it is the Catherine Wheel Stitch, hat pattern. It not only has my name, but it was a challenge and a pleasure to make it work.
Hope you like my little round up here and thank you to my readers for all of your positive and generous feed back!
 




Simple Crochet Sweater Size 2



Simple Crochet Toddler Sweater 

Size 1 free crochet pattern also available
 Printable pattern without pictures, free crochet pattern


To fit 2 yr old, has ¾ length flared sleeve, replace the trbl with a dc, for non flared sleeve

US terms used

Materials needed:

Hook size: 4.00mm US G/6
Yarn: 8 ply approx 200 gm’s/ US DK/Medium
Sewing needle
                                                 
Stitches used:
Ch= chain
Sc = single crochet
Scfr = single crochet foundation row
Dc = double crochet
Fpdc= front post double crochet
Bpdc = back post double crochet
Trbl = triple crochet
Skill level: beginner +
Tension: medium
Time: approx 8 hours

Introduction: Do you love those crocheted garments that are made all in one piece with just a little bit of sewing to finish the garment off? Well this is one of those.

Construction details: Begin at the bottom front band, work your way up to the sleeve placements, break off yarn and make a chain, then join to the side of the sweater, work across the chest part of the sweater, make another chain length for the arm, then return working arms in place with the body of the sweater. When you come to the neck and head area, you will replace the st’s with a length of chain for about 4 rows, then continue without the chain lengths working across the sleeve, back and sleeve part. Continue along until the sleeves are finished, then break off yarn and join to the body only and finish the back of the sweater. The side seams are then sewn and the lengths of chain in the neck and head area are gathered and sewn in place, giving this sweater a little bit of extra decoration, or you can even try to hide them completely!

Let’s begin.

The beginning ch2 or ch3 is not counted as a stitch throughout pattern.
Row 1, make a scfr of 47 sc. (47 sc)
Row 1, alternative, Ch 48, work 1sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each ch across (47 sc)

Row 2 ch 2, work 1 dc in each sc to end (47dc)

(Simple rib look edge made over 2 rows)
Row 3 is the right side of the sweater
Row 3 ch 2, work 1 dc in same space of the ch 2,* work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc* repeat from*to* to end

Row 4 ch 2, work 1 dc in same space of the ch 2,* work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in the next dc* repeat from*to* to end

Row 5 ch 2, work 1 dc in each st to the end of the row, (47 dc)

Row 6 to row 23, ch 2, work 1 dc in each st to the end of the row, (47 dc)

(Adding sleeves)
Row 24 ch 2 work 1 dc in each st to end, make a chain of 30, finish off with a sl st and break off yarn, turn you work over, attach yarn to the last dc of this row, ch 33, turn your work, (you will have a length of chain coming out from each side of your work


Row 25 work 1 trbl in 4th chain from hook, work 1 trbl in each of next 3 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 26 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 47 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 26 ch, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 ch, (4 trbl, 26 dc, 47 dc, 26 dc, 4 trbl) (107 st’s)

(Row 26 is the right side of the sweater)
Row 26 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in the next 99 dc, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 27 to Row 29 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each dc across, work 1 trbl in each of the last 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 30 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, *work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc,* repeat from *to* 15 more times, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl (107 st’s)

(Making the head space)
Row 31 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, ch 35 loosely, skip the next 33 st’s, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl (4 trbl, 33 dc, 35 chain, 33 dc, 4 trbl) (74 st’s)

Row 32 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, ch 38 loosely, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl

Row 33 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, ch 43 loosely, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl

Row 34 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc,  ch 48, work 1 dc in the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl

(Preparing to close the neck area)
Row 35 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, ch 33, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl
Row 36 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, work 1 dc in each of the 33 chain spaces, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 37 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each of next 33 dc, *work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc,* repeat from *to* 15 more times, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 33 dc, work 1 trbl in each of the next 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 38 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each dc st across, work 1 trbl in each of the last 4 trbl (107 st’s)

Row 39 to Row 45 ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each dc across, work 1 trbl in each of the last 4 trbl (107 st’s)

(Right side of work and last row of sleeves)
Row 46  ch 3, work 1 trbl in the next 4 trbl, work 1 dc in each dc across, work 1 trbl in each of the last 4 trbl (107 st’s), break off yarn, turn you work

(Now working the back only)
Row 47 join yarn with a sl st to the 31 st of this row, ch 2 and work 1 dc in this st, work 1 dc in each of the next 46 dc, turn your work, (47 dc)

Row 48 to Row 68, ch 2 work 1 dc in each st to end of row (47 dc)

(Simple rib look edge made over 2 rows)
Row 69 ch 2, work 1 dc in same space of the ch 2,* work 1 bpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in the next dc* repeat from*to* to end

Row 70 ch 2, work 1 dc in same space of the ch 2,* work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc* repeat from*to* to end

Row 71 ch 1, work 1 sc in each dc to end, break off yarn leaving a long tail to sew with

Fold sweater in place with wrong sides facing out, sew side and sleeve seams together on both sides

With right side facing
Gather the length’s of chains from the head space, find the middle of the chains, sew the middle part together, then sew to the outer part of the sweater on the chest area, add a button/ decorative item to hide the chain join on the sweater.

This pretty lilac sweater was made by Deanne Galanty, she chose to gather her chains to resemble a butterfly, well done Deanne!

Free CrochetPattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood
Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.
 Jan 2014.


You can use this pattern for charity or for selling your work, please link back to this pattern if you use it.