Fans Down Under-Free Crochet Pattern-Adult Size

Fans Down Under-Free Crochet Pattern-Adult Size

A decorative Beanie, Hat, Beret or Slouch

For Baby Version Free Crochet Pattern
For printer friendly version free crochet pattern no pictures. 

Introduction: With clever placements of the V stitch and 9 dc’s all in a row, a few sc’s and ch’s thrown in together, gives this pretty little stitch pattern a big tick. You will need a bit of concentration to begin with, but the pattern does repeat it’s self so it will become repetitive.

To fit: Adult, please read sizing guidelines supplied after row 8 of the crown and again at row 16 of the pattern rows.

Hook size: 3.5mm to 5.0mm, US G/6

Yarn: 8 ply approx 150 gm’s US DK/Medium.

US crochet terms used

Skill level: beginner +

Tension: medium

Time: approx 2 hours

Stitches used:

Sl st=slip stitch

Ch=chain

Sc = single crochet

Hdc= half double crochet

Dc =double crochet

Fpdc=front post double crochet

V st= (dc, ch 1, dc)

V stitch: The V stitch is (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc), worked into the st indicated by the pattern

We will be working with a hdc crown, this will give a longer pattern length within the hat. You are welcome to use dc’s instead.

Please note! The beginning ch 1 and ch 2 of every rnd is not counted as a st.

BEGIN:

Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring.

Row 1, ch 1, work 12 hdc into ring, sl st to join in the 1^st hdc (you will join this way on every round)

(Increase in every st)

Row 2, ch 1, work 2 hdc into each hdc to end, sl st to join (24 hdc)

(Increase in every 3^rd st)
Row 3, ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 2 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (32 hdc)

(Increase in every 4^th st)

Row 4, ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 3 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (40 hdc)

(Increase in every 5^th st)

Row 5, ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 4 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (48 hdc)

(Increase in every 6^th st)

Row 6, ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 5 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (56 hdc)

Row 7, ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 6 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (64 hdc)

Row 8, ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 7 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (72 hdc)

This may be a good time for you to measure your crown.

I am using a 3.5 mm hook and an 8 ply yarn which is a little on the thin side and looks nicer if I use the 3.5 mm hook with it.

My crown, measures 17 inches around and 5 inches across, it is too small for an adult hat (it would fit a child at this size).

If your crown is larger you can stop increases here.

Approx, 18.5 inches for small adult, approx 21 inches for medium to large adult hat.

If you have the correct fit now, just work 1 hdc in each st around and join, and then go onto the pattern rounds.

You also have the option to increase from 88 st’s to 96 st’s, for a lovely beret/slouch, but these extra st’s will need to be decreased prior to the hat edging. Just follow the same formula above for the extra increases.

Row 9, ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 8 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (80 hdc)

My crown is now approx 18.5 inches around and 6 inches wide

Row 10, for the 80 hdc round, work 1 hdc in each st to end and sl st to join (80 hdc)

Begin Pattern Rows

Row 1, Ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as join, skip 3 st’s, work 9 dc’s in next st, skip 3 st’s,* work 1 sc in next st, skip 3 st’s, work 9 dc in next st, skip 3 st’s,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in beginning sc, (10 sc, 10 groups of 9 dc, or 1 less of each when using 72 dc crown)

Row2, Ch 4, work 1 dc in same space as ch 4, ch 1, work 1 sc in the 4^th, 5^th and 6^th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1,* work a V st (V st =1dc, ch1, 1dc) in the sc, ch 1, work 1 sc in the 4^th, 5^th and 6^th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the space between the beginning ch 4 and 1 dc (10 groups of 3 sc, 10 V’s or 1 less of each when using 72 dc crown)

Row 3, Ch 3, work 4 dc in same space as join, skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc, *work 9 dc in the V st space, skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc,* repeat from *to* to end, work 4 dc in same space as the beginning (ch 3 and 4 dc) sl st into the top of the ch 3

Row 4, Ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as ch 1, work 1 sc in next dc, ch 1, work a V st in the next sc, ch 1,*work 1 sc in the 4^th, 5^th and 6^th dc of the 9 dc group, ch 1, work a V st in the next sc, ch 1*, repeat from *to* to end, skip 3 dc, work 1 sc  in 4^th dc, sl st into the 1^st sc of this round, (30 sc, 10 V st’s)

Row 5, Ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as join, work 9 dc in the V st space, *skip 1 sc, work 1 sc in next sc, work 9 dc in the V st space,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the first sc of this round (10 sc, 10 groups of 9 dc)

Row 6, Repeat row 2

Row 7, Repeat row 3

Row 8, Repeat row 4

Row 9, Repeat row 5

Row 10, Repeat row 2

Row 11, Repeat row 3

Row 12, Repeat row 4

Row 13, Repeat row 5

Row 14, Repeat row 2

Row 15, Repeat row 3

Row 16, Repeat row 4

Once again take the time to measure your hat, if you want it longer repeat more pattern rows or make a longer ribbed edging as per following instructions. Just ensure you end with a row that has the V st in it.

My hat measures approx 8 inches in length now and I will begin my ribbed edging.

If you have made a beret/slouch you will need to decrease st’s over a couple of rows of plain dc rounds until you reach your fit, between 72 and 80 st’s for an adult size hat.

The decreases will be made in the reverse order as the increases, place a decrease where there was an increase.

MUST READ INSTRUCTIONS BELOW FOR CORRECT STITCH COUNT

I have counted each ch, sc and dc that I ended with, in row 15 of the pattern; I have 30 chain spaces, 30 sc and 20 dc, which add up to 80. Before I began the pattern rows, I had 80 st’s, and that is the exact amount of st’s I need to finish my hat edge with. If you had 64, 72, 80, 88 or 96 st’s you will get that stitch count by counting the same st’s as I did (each chain space, sc and dc).

Begin Simple Rib Hat Edge

The beginning ch 3 of each row is not counted as a stitch

Row 1, Ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in every dc, ch space and sc of the round (st count as per instructions)

Row 2, Ch 3, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end

Row 3, Repeat row 2, 1 more time or for length desired

I find that once I have finished my ribbed rows it can tend to curl slightly, so I work 1 more round of 1 hdc in each dc of the round then finish off and tie in ends.

Free Crochet Pattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

 2014.

You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern

I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use

Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Ripple Stitch Hat. Free Crochet Pattern

Adult Size Crochet Ripple Stitch/Chevron Stitch Hat

  My inspiration for this pattern was Joel Maddens hair color, he changes it every week or maybe every day. 

He is a coach on The Voice.

I usually make my medium hats with a beginning crown of 72 st's, but the pattern used for the hat, made it shrink, so I had to start over with a crown count of 84 st's, it was a perfect count as the stitch pattern is dividable by 14 st's.

Below is the 70 st count for the crown, it was too small for a medium adult

 Below is the 84 st count, big difference!

Hook size: AU 4.00mm. US G/6

Yarn ply: AU 8 ply. US 4 ply medium approx 120 gm’s

Tension: 9 dc’s, 2 inches wide. 1 dc, half inch high

US terms used
Beginner +

Time approx 3 hours: Size medium adult

Stitches used:

Ch = chain

Sl st = slip st

Sc = single crochet

Hdc = half double crochet

Dc = double crochet

Fphdc = front post half double crochet

Bphdc = back post half double crochet

Dec = decrease

Inc = Increase = more than 1 stitch in the same stitch

Yo = yarn over hook

Special Instructions:

Pattern is a 14 stitch repeat. Make your crown (end count) in multiples of 14. Example, I am using 84 dc which was an easy target to get to using the basic dc crown; I increased in 1 more row.

 I am using this size as the pattern tends to shrink down one size, so I am calling this size a medium.

Very small adult size you will need 70 dc st’s in the crown. You can manipulate the stitch count by adding or subtracting a stitch anywhere in the last row of making your crown, you may need to add or subtract 2 or 4 st’s, but that’s okay.

dc dec, next 3 st’s = yo hook, insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo pull through 2 loops only, yo hook, , insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), ), yo pull through 2 loops only,  yo hook, insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through remaining 4 loops on hook

To begin make the basic dc crown found here.

To get 84 st’s complete row 7 below.

Row 7, Ch 3, work 1 dc in next 4 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (84 dc)

Set Up Row for Pattern, (color changes will not be mentioned)

Row 1, Ch 3, work 1 dc in the next 3 st’s, work 1 sc in the next 6 st’s, *work 1 dc in the next 8 st’s, , work 1 sc in the next 6 st’s,* repeat from*to* to the last 4 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 4 st’s, , sl st to join in top of ch 3

Pattern:

Row 2, Ch 3, work 2 dc’s in same space as sl st (inc made), work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made), dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made),  work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, work 3 dc’s in the next st (inc made),

(14 st, pattern just made)

*work 3 dc’s  in the next st (inc made), work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made), dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made),  work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, work 3 dc’s  in the next st (inc made),* repeat from *to* to end of the round, sl st to join in top of ch 3

Row 3 and remaining rows of pattern, repeat pattern row 2 approx 6 or 7 times in total (or length desired i.e: slouch look)

It’s up to you if you want a straight hat edge or the wave hat edge. If you want the wave hat edge add more rows of the pattern for length desired

Straight Hat Edge

Row 1, work 1 sc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 7 st’s, work 1 sc in the next 3 st’s. *work 1 sc in the next 3 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 8 st’s, work 1 sc in the next 3 st’s* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the first st of the round

Special size instructions:

For a tighter hat edge replace the hdc with sc’s.

For a looser hat edge replace the hdc with dc’s.

Row 2, ch 2 (first hdc), work 1 hdc in each st to end of the round, sl st into ch 2 space to join

Row 3, ch 2,* work 1 bphdc in next st, work 1 fphdc in next st,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into ch 2 space to join

Row 4, repeat row 3 for length desired.

Finish off and tie in ends.

 You may find this amusing, this is how I jotted down the pattern as I made the hat and pattern.

  

Chickie Magoo helped test this pattern and she did find a mistake, lucky for me she did!
This is her hat made from the pattern
Chickie chose a slouch look.
This is Chickie's feed back.

I opted to add a few rows of FPHDC/BPHDC to enhance the slouch look. Just a note, the depth from crown to edge is a tad long for a non-slouch @ 84 sts ... at least it is for me. My head circ is 22". This hat measures 8" from top of crown to the beginning of the post stitch edge, then another inch for the post stitch edging.... that's why it's slightly slouchy. I don't mind that look so it's all good but just so you know. As for speed, once I figured out the pattern, it was a breeze and didn't take long at all, no more than just a plain hat really and the repeats are very easy to remember. After the first coloured stripe (once I figured it out lol) I didn't need to refer back to the pattern till I got to the straight edge... I would say it's quicker than it looks! Thank YOU x

 Good luck with your project, I’d love to hear your feed back. Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too.

 TO PRINT OUT THE PATTERN, COPY AND PASTE TO A WORD DOCUMENT ON YOUR COMPUTER.

Long time between crochet post's.

Hope every one had a safe Christmas and new year!

I have been crocheting, just not blogging about it, probably too busy crocheting.

I made quite a few gifts this year.

My favorite gifts were a bear and a horse that I crocheted.

They were form the Heidi pattern range which can be purchased online.

I made the pony first and I wish I had put something sturdy in the pony's neck part as it does droop a little.

The pony was made with 32 shapes whilst the torso of the bear had 32 shapes alone which meant much more work, I did not follow the instructions to use several different sized hooks for the torso of the bear, so the body was a little out of shape, but I covered up the bear with an apron I created.

 I also made beaded crochet ropes for the lovely ladies in my life, these take about 6 hours to make which includes tedious threading on of the hundreds of beads first.

If you want to make these, youtube has many tutorials available, just search for crochet beaded rope.

The 3 below were a request after one of my daughters friends saw hers, she wanted some for herself.

Right now I am making more of the snowflake baby blankets, they were a hit!

Love jobs, but I love to give/share!

There a lot's of baby's coming this year.

Cheers for now, Cat.

Which Stitch Neck Warmer

 Which Stitch Neck Warmer

 What's with the name?

Which Stitch.

Well this stitch has more than one name.

The UP and DOWN st.

The GRIDDLE st.

The LEMON PEEL st.

 And maybe even more.

I prefer the Up and Down stitch as it makes sense to me.

Once the first pattern row is established which is

1 sc, 1 dc, repeat the last 2 stitches to the end.

The up and down bit becomes clear on the next and every alternative row.

1 sc worked into a dc stitch, 1 dc worked into a sc stitch, worded this way it's really the down and up stitch.

 The benefits of this st is that it works up very quickly and gives a closed piece of work (no holes) which is perfectly suited for a neck warmer.

 Well what about the button holes that are needed?

The button holes are worked into row 3, better to do it at the beginning of the neck warmer rather than the end.

It will take 2 rows to complete the button holes.

Placement can be up to you, but closer to the edges are better for when you wear it.

 Button hole row:

Work 1 sc, 1 dc, 1sc, 1dc, STOP and don't work the next 1 sc into the next dc stitch (that's the space for the button hole), do 1 chain instead and skip that dc, then work 1 dc straight into the next sc, do the same about 5st's in from the end.

When you work on the next row you will place a dc into the ch 1 space, button hole made! To make sure you do not miss making this stitch, talk your way through this row as it can be easily over looked.

Now doesn't the neck warmer look odd in the above picture?

But because it wraps around the neck and over laps this is how it looks finished.

Try seeing the left (button holes) winding to you and then back over the buttons.

The one below is not closed but moving the right direction.

How wide will you make it?

How many chains needed to begin?

This is a personal choice, if you make them a little wider than I would make mine, you may feel restricted, choked up by the neck warmer, not that they will be too tight, but a little claustrophobic even.

It depends on the individual.

I make mine 14 chains plus 1 chain.

I did make one for myself 16 chains plus 1 chain and I found that too high and annoying.

 I always make them up over an even number of st's.

The rows always begin with a sc and end with a dc.

Each and every row, now it's becoming clearer that this will be an easy and repetitive pattern to make once you pass the button hole rows.

This also makes for nice even edges.

Now lets talk about hook size and yarn thickness.

I live in Australia a warmer climate, but it still gets cold in winter, our most used yarn ply is 8 ply which is the same as US 4 ply.

The hook suitable for AU 8 ply is a 4 or 5mm hook, which is a US G/6, 8/H hook.

Using a thicker ply is fine, but don't forget to use the appropriate hook size for that ply.

I suggest you start out with no more than 14 chain plus 1 chain for the thicker yarn.

Tension not required!

How long will I make it?

You will need about 17.5 inches in length, but in saying that, measure as you go, your neck may be smaller or larger than mine, I'd be an average size neck.

                    

You can copy and paste the instructions onto a word document for ease of use.

Now it's time to write the pattern which begins at the button hole end and is worked in one long piece.

A quick explanation:

Why do I refer to 14 chains plus 1 chain?

The 14 chains are for the amount of st's that will be used, the 1 chain is for the first turning chain, a turning chain only not counted as a stitch in this pattern. 

 Pattern

Materials needed: Hook, yarn, sewing needle, 2 buttons, tape measure and some scissors.

US terms used:

ch = chain

sc = single crochet

dc = double crochet

Level = beginner to expert.

  

To begin, chain 15:

Row;1, Work 1 sc into second ch from hook, work 1 dc into next chain, *work 1 sc into next chain, work 1 dc into next chain*, repeat from * to*  to end, ch 1 and turn (14 st's)

Row;2, *work 1 dc into a sc, work 1 sc into a dc*, repeat from * to*  to end,  ch 1 and turn (14 st's)

Row;3, Button hole row, work 1 dc into the sc, work 1 sc into the dc, work 1 dc into the sc, STOP, we are about to make the button hole. Chain 1, do not work into the next stitch, just skip that stitch, now work 1 dc into the sc, work 1 sc into the dc, until you get to with in 5 stitches of the end of the row, work the dc into the sc, STOP, we are about to make the second button hole. Chain 1, do not work into the next stitch, just skip that stitch, now work 1 dc into the sc, (you should have only 2 st's left), now work the sc into the dc and the dc into the sc, make 1 chain for turning, then turn work (12 st's and 2 ch 1 spaces)

Row;4, Working across this row we must place a dc into the chain 1 place, it's easy to get lost here, so lets talk it through.In order we start, a single into a double, a double into a single, a single into a double, a double into that chain 1 space, a single into a double, a double into a single, a single into a double, until we get to that next chain 1 space, now go ahead and do a double into the chain 1 space, (2 st's left) a single into the double, a double into the single, make 1 chain for turning, then turn work (14 st's)

Row 5 makes up the rest of the pattern, just repeat this row until you have the desired length, approx 17.5 inches.

 

Row;5, *Work 1 dc into a sc, work 1 sc into a dc*, repeat  from *to* to end, 
ch 1 and turn

 At the end of your last row break off yarn long enough to sew in that end.

 

Sew in ends, check button size before attaching buttons, attach buttons.

Of course you can dress this style up with a few fancy st's or embellishments.

Here's a few more I made. Free Matching Hat Pattern Here

   

You may also like this neck warmer, free crochet cable neckwarmer

 

  Good luck with your project, I’d love to hear your feed back. Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too. TO PRINT OUT THE PATTERN, COPY AND PASTE TO A WORD DOCUMENT ON YOUR COMPUTER.