Crochet, Little Miss Pink Puff, Preemie Sweater

Little MissPinkPuff is designed for a preemie size baby approx 2 lb (1 to 3 lb)

The puff st makes the little sweater just a bit fancy.

If you are running short of your main yarn, the puff stitch can be also made over 2 dc in stead of the 3 dc puff st included in the pattern instructions.

You can barely tell the difference but there is a weight difference of 8 grams using the 2 dc puff stitch.

2 dc puff stitch=

yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop,(5 stitches on hook), you over draw through 4 loops, yo draw through 2 loops

 The one on the right has the 3 dc puff st

Size, preemie approx 2lb (1 to 3 lb)

Hook 4.00 mm US: G/6

Yarn: 8 ply US: 4ply

Tension: medium

Materials: small amount of contrast and main approx 40 gm’s,

3 small buttons

Stitches used:

Ch=chain

Sc=single crochet

Dc=double crochet

Back loop

Front loop

Dec=decrease

Inc=increase

Special Stitch Used: Puff st= yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, (7 loops on hook) yo hook and draw through 6 loops on hook ( 2 loops on hook), yo hook and draw through 2 loops

Special Instructions: #1 Sweater begins at collar.#2 Arms, back and front top yolk are worked onto collar #3 sides and back are worked in one piece as armhole st’s are skipped. #4 Bottom, side and collar edgings are worked in next. #5 Arms are joined in by picking up st’s from skipped st’s under yolk.

Beginning ch 3 is counted as the first st of every row

Begin with contrasting color: Ch 37

Row 1: work 1 sc in 2^nd chain from hook, work 1 sc in each chain across, change to main color, (36 sc) then ch 3 and turn (ch 3 is first st of next row)

Row 2: work 1 dc in each sc across (36 dc), ch 3 and turn

Decrease row (shape collar)

Row 3: work 1 dc in next dc, dc next 3 dc’s together (dec made), work 1 dc in each of the next 26 dc, , dc next 3 dc’s together, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st’s, ( 32 dc) ch 3 and turn

 

Increase row (shape shoulders)

Working row 4 in back loops only

Row 4: work 1 dc in next 7 dc, work 4 dc’s in each of the next 2 st’s (inc made),work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc’s, work 2 dc’s into each of the next 4 dc’s (inc made), work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc’s, work 4 dc’s in each of the next 2 st’s (inc made) work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (48 dc) ch 3 and turn

Increase row

Row 5: work 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 16 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn

Row 6: work 1 dc in each dc to end, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn

Working row 7 in back loops only

Shape arm holes

Row 7: work 1 dc in next dc, work 1 puff st in next 6 dc’s, skip the next 12 dc, work 1 puff st in each of the next 16 dc, skip the next 12 dc, work 1 puff st in next 6 dc’s, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st’s, ch 3 and turn (2 dc, 28 puff st, 2dc=32 st’s)

Row 8: work 1 dc in next dc, work 1 puff st into each of next 28 puff st’s, work 1 dc in next 2 st’s, ch 3 and turn (2 dc, 28 puff st, 2dc=32 st’s)

Row 9, 10, 11 and repeat row 8, change to contrasting color and chain1 sc to turn on last row (row 11)

Special Instructions: Before Beginning The Edge Trim: This is just a guide, go to row 12 to begin the edge trim

Working sc in contrast color #1, sc along the bottom edge, #2,  sc up lefthand side, #3, sl st across collar, #4, sc along right hand side and making a ch 2 for 3 button loops and sc to end

Row: 12 work 1 sc in each dc  and puff st, to last dc, work 2 sc in this dc, (left edge) working 2 sc in the side of a dc and 1 sc in the side of a ch 3 (approx 16 sc) to the sc space of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, sl st loosely across the beginning chains of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, work down the right hand side the same way as you did the left hand side, stopping at the 2nd back loop row to make first button loop, work 1 sc, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 2 spaces, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 2 spaces, ch 2,  (3 button loops) work 1 sc in same sequence as before to end of the side, work 1 sc in the same space as the first sc made, sl st to next st,  finish off yarn

Adding the sleeves

Right sleeve

Row 1:  (turn garment up side down, with the front facing you) join in yarn to the same back loop of the last puff st worked on back panel, ch 2, in same place work a puff st, work 1 puff st in the back loops of the next 12 dc of the sleeve top, work 1 puff st in the same place as the next puff st, work 1 puff st in the centre space of the front and back panel, sl st into the top of the first puff st to join round (15 puff st’s) it will not matter if you are a stitch out

Row 2: ch 2,work 1 puff st in same st, work 1 puff st in each puff st to end of row, sl st into the top of the first puff st to join round  (15 puff st’s)

Row 3 and Row 4: repeat row 2, change to contrast color

Row 5: ch 1, work 1 sc in each puff st around, sl st to first sc to join round

Row 6: ch 1, work 1 sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc to join round, finish off yarn.

Left sleeve

Turn garment up side down, with the front facing you, join in yarn to the same back loop of the last puff st worked on the left hand panel, repeat as for right sleeve

Sew in all loose ends

Buttons

Sew buttons onto the left hand side, making sure they are evenly placed, opposite the ch 2 button loops

 You can find Little Boy Blue Here

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

Crochet, Little Boy Blue Preemie Sweater

Little Boy Blue, Preemie Sweater

Size, preemie approx 2lb (1 to 3 lb)

Hook 4.00 mm US: G/6

Yarn: 8 ply US: 4ply

Tension: medium

Materials: small amount of contrast and main approx 25 gm’s,

3 small buttons

Stitches used:

Ch=chain

Sc=single crochet

Dc=double crochet

Back loop

Front loop

Dec=decrease

Inc=increase

 

Special Instructions: #1 Sweater begins at collar.#2 Arms, back and front top yolk are worked onto collar #3 sides and back are worked in one piece as armhole st’s are skipped. #4 Bottom, side and collar edgings are worked in next. #5 Arms are joined in by picking up st’s from skipped st’s under yolk.

Beginning ch 3 is counted as the first st of every row

Begin with contrasting color: Ch 37

Row 1: work 1 sc in 2^nd chain from hook, work 1 sc in each chain across, change to main color, (36 sc) then ch 3 and turn (ch 3 is first st of next row)

Row 2: work 1 dc in each sc across (36 dc), ch 3 and turn

Decrease row  (shape collar)

Row 3: work 1 dc in next dc, dc next 3 dc’s together (dec made), work 1 dc in each of the next 26 dc, , dc next 3 dc’s together, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st’s, ( 32 dc) ch 3 and turn

Increase row  (shape shoulders)

Working row 4 in back loops only

Row 4: work 1 dc in next 7 dc, work 4 dc’s in each of the next 2 st’s (inc made),work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc’s, work 2 dc’s into each of the next 4 dc’s (inc made), work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc’s, work 4 dc’s in each of the next 2 st’s (inc made) work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (48 dc) ch 3 and turn

Increase row

Row 5: work 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 16 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn

 Picture, end of row 5

 

Row 6: work 1 dc in each dc to end, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn

Working row 7 in front loops only

Shape arm holes

Row 7: work 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, skip the next 12 dc,  work 1 dc in each of the next 16 dc, skip the next 12 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (32 dc) ch 3 and turn

You will now be working the back and front panels in one piece

Row 8:  work 1 dc in each dc to end, (32 dc) ch 3 and turn

Repeat row 8, 4 more times, change to contrasting color and chaining 1 sc to turn on last row (row 12)

Special Instructions Before Beginning The Edge Trim: This is just a guide, go to row 13 to begin the edge trim (after the next picture).

Working sc in contrast color #1, sc along the bottom edge, #2,  sc up right hand side, #3, sl st across collar, #4, sc along left hand side and making a ch 2 for 3 button loops and sc to end

Begin Edge Trim

Row: 13 work 1 sc in each dc to last dc, work 2 sc in this dc, (right edge) working 2 sc in the side of a dc and 1 sc in the side of a ch 3 (approx 16 sc) to the sc space of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, sl st loosely across the beginning chains of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, work down left the hand side the same way as you did the right hand side, stopping at the front loop row to make first button loop, work 1 sc, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 3 spaces, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 3 spaces, ch 2,  (3 button loops) work 1 sc in same sequence as before to end of the side, work 1 sc in the same space as the first sc made, sl st to next st,  finish off yarn

Adding the sleeves

Left sleeve

Row 1:  (turn garment up side down, with the front facing you) join in yarn to the same back loop of the last dc worked, ch 3, work 1 dc in the back loops of the next 12 dc, work 1 dc in the same back loop of the next dc, work 1 dc in the side of the next dc, work 1 dc in the space as the dc you just worked into the side of, work 1 dc in the side of the next dc, (17 dc) sl st to top of ch 3 to join round (if you are out a st that’s okay)

Row 2: ch 3, work 1 dc in each dc around, (17 dc) sl st to top of ch 3 to join round

Row 3: repeat row 2

Row 4: ch 1 work 1 sc into top of ch 3 and in each st around, sl st to first sc to join round (17 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, work 1 sc into each sc around, sl st to first sc to join round (17 sc)

Change to contrasting color

Row 6: ch 1 work 1 sc in each st around, sl st to join finish off

Right sleeve

Row 1:  (turn garment up side down, with the back facing you) repeat instructions as per left sleeve

Buttons

Sew buttons onto the right hand side, making sure they are evenly placed, opposite the ch 2 button loops

You can find Little Miss Pink Puff Here

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

Crochet The Tezzie Hat

The Tezzie Hat

Look for me on Face Book And Like My Page More Free Patterns

Close up of the Tezzie stitch

The Tezzie hat with the hat edge completed

HAVE YOU MADE A TEZZIE HAT?
CONTACT ME TO PLACE YOUR PICTURE IN THIS POST


Clorinda Espinoza made this rasta version.

 

Hook size: AU 4.00mm. US G/6

Yarn ply: AU 8 ply. US 4 ply approx 50 gm’s

Tension: See basic crown

US terms used
Beginner +

St’s used:

Ch= chain

Sl st= slip st

Sc= single crochet

Dc= double crochet

Fpdc=front post double crochet

Bpdc= back post double crochet

Trbl= treble

Fptrbl= front post treble

Stitch instructions here

Introduction: Hat pattern is worked over 3 rows. 

The set up row,

the pattern stitch row,

the completion row

Special stitch= 4 fptrbl’s worked around the 2nd dc of the skipped dc of the row below

The stitch count for the pattern is over 6 st’s and repeated around

 

To begin complete the basic dc crown for the size you want, the beginning ch 3 is counted as a stitch

Pattern rows:

Row 1: ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, ch4, skip next 4 dc, *work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, ch 4, skip next 4 dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 2: ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, work 4 fptrbl’s around the 2^nd skipped dc of the row below, *working back on this row, work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, work 4 fptrbl’s in the 2^nd skipped dc of the row below,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 3: ch 3, work 1 dc in each stitch around, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round, please count your dc’s, you should have the same amount of dc’s as you did before you began the pattern rows

For both small and medium to large size hat, repeat pattern 3 more times (4 times in all, 12 rows in total)

 Height with out the hat edge, slightly stretched, is approx 8 inches high

Begin hat edge: the beginning ch 3 will not be counted as a st

Row 1: ch 3, work a fpdc around same st, work a bpdc around next dc, *work a fpdc around the next dc, work a bpdc around the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, making sure to end with a bpdc, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 2: ch 3, *work a fpdc around the fpdc, work a bpdc around the bpdc* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join round

Your hat, (slightly stretched) should now be approx 9 inches in height, you can finish off here or repeat row 2 of hat edge for a higher hat height

The pattern stitch can be worked into any hat that is devisable by 6 dc, such as 12, 24, 36, 48 and so on. 

PRINTER FRIENDLY VERSION

Another great video tutorial by Bobwilson123 visit her on face book or you tube for more free video tutorials! Thanks Bob!

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

Crochet Basic DC Crown

The basic dc crown can be used for the beginning of many hat designs.

The measurements given are an approximate as many yarns will differ from brand to brand.

I am using an AU 8 ply yarn (US 4 ply) and a 4.00mm hook (US G/6)

 The crochet terms I use are US

I will be giving instructions for a small adult and medium to large adult, both reflecting woman's sizes.

Stitches used are:

chain

DC= double crochet

Sl st= slip stitch

Tension: see pictures below for measurements

Notes: the beginning ch 3 is counted as a dc.

To begin: Ch 4 or make a magic ring

Row 1.Work 11 dc into 4th chain from hook, sl st to join in top of ch 3. (12 dc)...(or work ch 3 and 11 dc into the magic ring)

Row 2. Ch 3, work 1 dc in same place as ch 3, work 2 dc in each dc around, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (24 dc)

Row3.  Ch 3, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (36 dc)

Row 4. Ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (48 dc)

Row 5. Ch 3, work 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (60 dc)

Stop increasing here for a small adult hat.

Row 6. Ch 3, work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (72 dc)

Stop increasing here for a medium to large adult hat 

You are now ready to work with out increasing.

Work 1 dc in each st around, sl st to join in top of ch3.

Repeat above round with out increasing for hat height desired.

You also have the option to use a stitch pattern in the hat, once the crown has been established.

If you choose to do this you will need a stitch pattern that is dividable by the amount of st's you already have.

  Keeping in mind that you will be joining the pattern round.

It will not matter too much if you need to increase/decrease a stitch or 2 for this to happen.

The average hat height is about 9 inches or 11 inches with a folded brim.

 We can also work the crown rounds in multiples of 10 dc's, this is particularly useful for the in between sizes and varied tensions.

Using the instructions above begin with 10 dc, increasing in rows to 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70.
 
Once again a big thank you to Bobwilson123 for an excellent learning video tutorial!

I hope that you have found these instructions useful.

Please like me on face book or and comment on my face book page for more user information.

I am always more than happy to help.

More dc Crown help here.

Google

Tunisian Entrelac Stitch Count

I am writing this post to keep some information stored for myself and for others who may need it too.

I happened across a video tutorial made by Bethintx1 (her you tube channel).

The video was a crochet along making an afghan with the tunisian entrelac method.

The out come of her afghan was just lovely.

But I wanted to down size my project and just followed along for 3 rounds and a, half squares round for my face cloth.

The next face cloth I did I made some improvements on and I did a sc border, simple but it looked nicer, so I went back to my first one and did the same thing.

I really wanted to know the break down of the stitch count, so I could make other shapes and items with this pattern.

I asked the professional, Beth!

I had this st count. 

‎( 2 diamonds = 21 chain, 3 diamonds = 31chain, 7 diamonds = 71 chain...) think I found it, cheers Cat :)

This is the st count and explanation she gave me.

 10 for the square and one for the joining chain between the squares. so if you start with 7 squares, it would be 70, plus 6; because there are six joinings between the 7 squares.

‎

(2 diamonds= 21 chains, 3 diamonds 32 chains, 4 diamonds = 43 chains, etc. )

I am officially excited to have the formula.

Below is the beginning of the video tutorial I crocheted along with, thank you Beth.

Crochet Preemie Baby Hats

I am currently making baby hats for preemie baby's,some are small enough for the precious ones we loose. I will be donating these and more to my local country hospital.

I got the sizing from Bev,s blog link here.

 I made mine with AU 5 ply and a 3.5m hook.

I began the first round with 12 dc.

Ch 4, work 11 dc into 4th ch from hook, sl st to join round

Second round was increased to 24 dc.

ch 3, work 1 dc in same space, work 2 dc in each dc around, sl st to join round

Third round was increased to 36 dc.

Ch 3, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join round

The hat measure's approx 22 cm around.

I made 5 more rounds in dc (work 1 dc in each dc to end of round, sl st to join round, repeat 4 more times (5 times in total)

Then I did 2 rounds of hdc for the rim of the hat.
Work 1 hdc in each st around for 2 more rows, finish off, weave in ends.
My hat length is approx 7.5 cm long.

These little hats can be difficult to measure with a tape, you can take some yarn to place around your hat circle and place it against the tape to get your measurements.

All hats have a small pattern piece in them to make them more appealing.

Crochet T Strap Booties

You can find the free pattern for these little beauties here. Free membership available for the free pattern.

They look great on my baby grand daughters little feet.

I just had to share this lovely picture of my 2 grand daughters, Bella and Cindy

Crochet a Baby Mobile

Not a difficult project to make if you are familiar with making Amigurumi's (small crocheted toys).

First I had to select a few dolls to make and a color scheme, nice and bright to catch baby's eye's.

You can do a google search for many free crochet Amigurumi.

I found the 2 on the out side at this site for free, called sleepy sarah, the little girl was found else where, can't recall where right now.

Ella Phant was made from the pattern book, Amigurumi World.

Mona Key was made from the same pattern book. Not their names in the pattern book, I just made the names up for fun.

At this stage I was thinking about the construction of the mobile.

I knew I had some wooden hangers to use and tried to visualize the hanging of the dolls, it was then that I thought of it's balance! I did plan to make more dolls for the mobile but I was now, more aware of the space I had to use and how to balance the dolls.

I put the largest 2 at the very top.

Then the matching pair on the center hanger.

Then the single doll on the bottom hanger.

But before I attached the dolls to the hanger I crocheted a plain white cover for them.

I now needed the final touch and crocheted some colored cork screws to go in between the blank spaces. There is a you tube tutorial on how to make these.

My plan was coming together. I used clear plastic line to attach the dolls to the coat hanger, being careful of the balance of the whole thing.

I'm really happy with the out come and baby Cindy now 4 weeks old seems to look at it, once she has her eye sight fully focused I am sure she will spend many hours admiring her mobile. The whole project will take you a relaxed week of crocheting if you choose to make one for your self.

My little girl is growing.

If you crochet over a hanger, just make the chain about 1 inch longer than the hanger.

Once I made the row height for one facing of the coat hanger, I crocheted into the back loops of the next row to get a turning seam.

 My next side was done and I needed to crochet into the front loops for the next turning seam.

 I repeated alternating front loop and back loop for the turning edges and I closed it up with a simple slip stitch then inserted the hanger and sewed the ends closed.

Amigurumi is made in a circle with a sc and rounds are not joined, there is lots of counting to do and a stitch marker is your best friend to avoid mistakes. Below you can see an abacus that I use for counting, it also doubles up as a pattern book holder, very handy.

 

Amigurumi World Pattern Book.