Chunky Beret and Three Season's Beret Pattern

I like this style beret that I have been making, so I thought I would write up the pattern to share, it's one of many style's I've managed to come up with, but time does not prevail to write them all to share. Slowly does it and I may have more patterns to post.

I have written this beret pattern with 2 set's of instruction's.

One being for a thicker yarn, which is nice and warm for winter wear and the other is with a thinner yarn that can be worn for three season's.

Do not be afraid to adjust this pattern as AU Yarn is quite different yarn to the US and UK, AU can be much thinner which can require you to increase more.

Below is the three season's beret

 

The Chunky Winter Beret

Visual placement for the optional circular attachment


Chickie's Beret

Cat’s, Chunky Winter Beret

Directions given for Small, Medium and Large size beret
(Size is altered when making the band section)

Materials used.
AU: 12 ply yarn, 6.00mm hook. US: Worsted weight J/10 hook
Amount of yarn used 100 gm’s

Crochet terms written in US terms.

Special stitches used.
FPDC
Instructions: yo, insert hook behind post of stitch (from front to back), yo, pull through, bring up even with last stitch completed, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through rem 2 lps to complete stitch

BPDC
Instructions: yo, insert hook behind post of stitch (from back to front), yo, pull through, bring up even with last stitch completed, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through rem 2 lps to complete stitch

Decreasing with a BPDC
Using the instructions, work through 2 dc’s at once


Note 1:
The first ch 2 of every round is not counted as a stitch, to join rounds you will sl st into the ch 2 as if you were doing a front post st, *come from behind and into the gap between the chain 2 and the very first fpdc and make a sl st, then ch 2 to begin the next round*

Note 2:
You will be working the dc into the gaps between each fpdc and the dc, not into the eye of the dc

Begin
Ch 3, work 14 dc into the 3rd ch from hook, sl st into the beginning ch 2 to join (see note 1.) (14 dc and 1 ch 2)
Row 1. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 2 dc in the gap between the 2nd dc just worked and the next dc un worked,* repeat to end finishing off with 1 dc in the gap between the last dc worked and the ch 2 joining st, sl st to join (see note 1.)
(14 fpdc and 14dc)

Row 2. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 3 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 21 dc)

Row 3. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 4 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 28 dc)

Row 4. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 5 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 35 dc)

Row 5. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 6 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 42 dc)

Row 6. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 7 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 49 dc)

Row 7. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 8 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 56 dc)

Row 8. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 9 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 63 dc)

Stop increasing

Row 9. repeat row 8, leaving the last gap un worked (14 fpdc and 63 dc)

Start decreasing
(Decreasing is accomplished by skipping the first and last gaps between the fpdc’s)

Row 10. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, skip first gap, work 1 dc in the next 8 gaps, skip last gap*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 56 dc)

Row 11. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, skip first gap, work 1 dc in the next 7 gaps, skip last gap*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 49 dc)

Row 12. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, skip first gap, work 1 dc in the next 6 gaps, skip last gap*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 42 dc)

Row 13. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, skip first gap, work 1 dc in the next 5 gaps, skip last gap*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 35 dc)

Band

Row 14. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, bpdc next 2 dc together 2 times, bpdc next dc*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 35 bpdc)
(for a larger hat stop decreasing here and work one row of 2 fpdc and 3 bpdc, fin off)

Row 15. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, bpdc next 2 dc together, bpdc next st* repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 2 bpdc)

Row 16. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 bpdc in the next 2 st’s* repeat to end, sl st to join
(for an even smaller hat repeat row 16, fin off)

Cat’s, Three Season’s Beret

Directions given for Small, Medium and Large size beret
(size is altered when making the band section)

Materials used.
AU: 8 ply yarn, 5.00mm hook. US: Light Worsted H/8 hook
Amount of yarn used 50 gm’s

Crochet terms written in US terms.

Special stitches used.
FPDC
Instructions: yo, insert hook behind post of stitch (from front to back), yo, pull through, bring up even with last stitch completed, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through rem 2 lps to complete stitch

BPDC
Instructions: yo, insert hook behind post of stitch (from back to front), yo, pull through, bring up even with last stitch completed, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through rem 2 lps to complete stitch

Decreasing with a BPDC
Using the instructions, work through 2 dc’s at once


Note 1:
The first ch 2 of every round is not counted as a stitch, to join rounds you will sl st into the ch 2 as if you were doing a front post st, *come from behind and into the gap between the chain 2 and the very first fpdc and make a sl st, then ch 2 to begin the next round*

Note 2:
You will be working the dc into the gaps between each fpdc and the dc, not into the eye of the dc

Begin
Ch 3, work 14 dc into the 3rd ch from hook, sl st into the beginning ch 2 to join (see note 1.) (14 dc and 1 ch 2)
Row 1 Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 2 dc in the gap between the 2nd dc just worked and the next dc un worked,* repeat to end finishing off with 1 dc in the gap between the last dc worked and the ch 2 joining st, sl st to join (see note 1.)
(14 fpdc and 14dc)

Row 2. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 3 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 21 dc)

Row 3. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 4 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 28 dc)

Row 4. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 5 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 35 dc)

Row 5. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 6 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 42 dc)

Row 6. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 7 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 49 dc)

Row 7. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 8 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 56 dc)

Row 8. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 9 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 63 dc)

Row 9. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 10 gaps*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 70 dc)

Row 10. repeat row 9, leaving the last gap un worked (14 fpdc and 70 dc)

Start decreasing
(Decreasing is accomplished by skipping the first and last gaps between the fpdc’s)

Row 11. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, skip first gap, work 1 dc in the next 9 gaps, skip last gap*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 63 dc)

Row 12. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, skip first gap, work 1 dc in the next 8 gaps, skip last gap*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 56 dc)

Row 13. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, skip first gap, work 1 dc in the next 7 gaps, skip last gap*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 49 dc)


Band

Row 14. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, bpdc next 2 dc together, bpdc next 3dc bpdc next 2 dc together*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 35 bpdc)
(For larger size stop decreasing here and work 2 more rows of *2 fpdc, and 5 bpdc* around, fin)

Row 15. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, bpdc next 2 st’s together, bpdc next 1dc bpdc next 2 st’s together*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 21 bpdc)

Row 16. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc in the next 2 st’s, work 1 bpdc in the next 3 st’s*, repeat to end, sl st to join (14 fpdc and 21 bpdc)
Row 17. repeat row 16 and finish off

For a smaller hat work one more row as above

Instructions for small circular attachment for the top of the beret (optional)

Ch 2,
Row 1. work 6 sc into the second ch from the hook, do not join (6 sc)
Row 2. work 2 sc in each sc around, do not join (12 sc)
Row 3. *work 1 sc into the next sc, work 2 sc in the next sc* repeat to end, do not join (18 sc)
Decrease
Row 4. *work 1 sc in the next sc, sc the next 2 sc’s together* repeat to end, do not join (12 sc)
Row 5. *sc the next 2 sc’s together* repeat to end and join leaving a long tail for sewing. (6 sc)

Flatten the circle and sew to top of the beret.

Here is some feed back on the three seasons beret.

Thanks Chickie Magoo.

I absolutely love it and for me, 13 sts for the last inc was perfect, that made a couple extra rows for the decrease too and it all worked out great. I love how it fits and how it sits on my head...it's fairly heavy because I used Cleckheaton Country 8ply pure wool but it feels yummy and springy and I'm well pleased. Thanks for a great pattern!

This is Chickie's Beret.

I must say she does lovely crochet, thanks for letting me use your picture's Chickie

© Cathy Wood 2008

My Sister-in-Laws Visit

My sister in law Robyn called in to see us on Sunday with her husband (and our brother in law) Mal.

"I've got some wool for you" she said.

The yarn on the left is for her friend, she wants a beret and scarflette, the other is cotton, which Robyn wants a scarflette to match her new dark pink leather jacket. The rest is mine to do what ever I like with. I don't know if you can see the price on the cotton, but it was $1.00!

Below is some more yarn she bought, "they were on special" she said. Lovely balls of moda vera for .50c! I paid $3.00 a ball, then $2.40, then $2.00 as the clearance sales were more of a bargain. Robyn always finds the best deals on Yarn!
There is also some scap yarn from her friend, well it's not all scrap, some were full balls, below is a picture of yarn with sparkles and a foil look to them.
So now my stash gets that bit fatter, below is some of my stash, which looks tidier than this as I keep lids on them.

Stash 1 Stash 2. Plastic storage and a set of bedroom drawers with 6 drawers.
Stash 3. Tucked away in a corner.

Stash 4. The crockery got the flick from the wall unit for more yarn

And under the stairs a little nook, for bits and pieces, such as button's, eye's, glue and more.

Now don't forget that all of the above is tucked away neatly in my little area under the stairs adjacent to the dining room and kitchen.

Easy, Chunky Cabled Cushion Cover Pattern

Need to freshen up your cushion cover? Well here is a lovely chunky cabled cushion cover.
The finer finishes are up to you, tassles could be added to the corners, or a nice fringe to surround the entire cushion. It does take a bit of yarn, but this gives the cover a bit more thickness and durability.

Enjoy the pattern and feel free to link to me.

Easy, Chunky Cabled Cushion Cover Pattern
Fits standard cushion, approx 14 inch by 14 inch
Cushion cover will stretch if needed.
Materials used.2 strands of 8 ply yarn held together approx 400 gm’s.
(US Bulky Chunky, 1 strand used, approx 200 gm’s)
Size 6.00 mm hook (US J/10)

Tension not required:
Crochet terms written in US terms.Special stitches used.
FPDCInstructions: yo, insert hook behind post of stitch (from front to back), yo, pull through, bring up even with last stitch completed, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through rem 2 lps to complete stitchBPDCInstructions: yo, insert hook behind post of stitch (from back to front), yo, pull through, bring up even with last stitch completed, yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through rem 2 lps to complete stitch
Cable 6Skip the next 3 st’s, fpdc in the 4th st, fpdc in the 5th st, fpdc in the 6th st, fpdc in the first st skipped, fpdc in the 2nd st skipped, fpdc in the 3rd st skipped (6 fpdc)

Note: The end ch 2 turning ch, is always counted as the first st of the next row
Make 2:
Beginning bottom front edge, ch 47
1. Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 2 and turn (46 sc)
Begin pattern stitch

2. Work 1 fpdc in next sc (see note:), work 1 bpdc in the next 4 sc, *work 1 fpdc in the next 4 sc, work 1 bpdc in the next 6 sc*, repeat from *to* 2 more times, work 1 fpdc in the next 4 sc, work 1 bpdc in the next 4 sc, work 1 fpdc in the next sc, work 1 dc in the last sc, ch 2 and turn (see note:) (46 st’s)

3. Work 1 bpdc in the next st, work 1 fpdc in the next 4 st’s, *work 1 bpdc in the next 4 st’s, work cable 6 in the next 6 st’s*, repeat from *to* 2 more times, work 1 bpdc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 fpdc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 bpdc in the next st, work 1 dc in top of ch 2, ch 2 and turn

4. Work 1 fpdc in next st, work 1 bpdc in the next 4 st, *work 1 fpdc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 bpdc in the next 6 st’s*, repeat from *to* 2 more times, work 1 fpdc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 bpdc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 fpdc in the next st, work 1 dc in the last st, ch 2 and turn

5. Work 1 bpdc in the next st, work 1 fpdc in the next 4 st’s, *work 1 bpdc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 fpdc in the next 6 st’s*, repeat from *to* 2 more times, work 1 bpdc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 fpdc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 bpdc in the next st, work 1 dc in top of ch 2, ch 2 and turn

6. Work 1 fpdc in next st, work 1 bpdc in the next 4 st, *work 1 fpdc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 bpdc in the next 6 st’s*, repeat from *to* 2 more times, work 1 fpdc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 bpdc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 fpdc in the next st, work 1 dc in the last st, ch 2 and turn
Repeat from rows 3 to 6 for length required, finishing with a row of sc, sew or crochet pieces together, leaving an opening to insert cushion.

Note: When working on the opposite side to the cable 6, ensure to bpdc in to the first st. See below picture's.

© Cathy Wood 2008

Too wet for the market today

 

So I am up at 5.45 am, my car was packed the night before and I'm ready to head off to the market, but the weather is wet and cold, it doesn't look like it's going to let up, so the decision is made and I won't be going.
 

So onto my other love, I'll surf the net for inspiration, but I'll just play a few online games first. My hubby snaps a shot of me from behind, the birds nest in my hair is revealed.
 

Now this is a project I've thinking about for a while, to replace the cushion covers I knitted some years ago.
 

This is the beginning of one cushion, so far I like it and it is making up fast with 2 strands of 8ply and a size 6.00mm hook, I designed the stitch pattern before I started. Considering I have not written many patterns of late, I might write this one up to share. I've also got a lovely bolero hat pattern I want to write up and share. So stay tuned for more to come.

Pattern here.