Ribbed Look Baby Beanie

Ribbed Look, FPDC Beanie

Cat's Beanie-Babe #3

To fit: newborn to 3 months

Hook size: 4.00mm US G/6

Yarn: 8 ply approx 50 gm’s US DK/Medium

US crochet terms used

Skill level: beginner +

Tension: medium

Time: approx 2 hours

Stitches used:

Sl st= slip stitch

Ch= chain

Dc= double crochet

Fpdc= front post double crochet

BPHDC= back post half double crochet

FPHDC= front post half double crochet

http://www.crochetcabana.com/stitches/stitches-fpdc-bpdc.htm

Measurements: Head Circumference 13 inches, hat height 5 inches (5.5 inches with a folding edge)

The beanie begins at the top of the head and worked down, the beanie is worked in one piece using the fpdc st, which gives a rib look stitch.

The Crown

Beginning ch 2 of every rnd is counted as a st.

Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring.

Row 1 ch 2, work 11 dc into ring, sl st to join into the top of the ch 2 (12 st’s)

Increase rounds:

Increase in every st

Row 2 ch 2, work a fpdc around the ch 2 post (increase made), *work 1 dc into the next dc, work a fpdc around the post of the same dc (increase made),* repeat from *to* 10 more times, coming in from behind the ch 2 (see picture), sl st into the space between the ch 2 and the 1^st dc, (you will join this way for every round) (24 st’s)

Increase in every 3^rd st

Row 3 ch 2, work a fpdc around the next st, work 1 dc into the next st, work a fpdc around the post of the same st, *work a fpdc around the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc into the next st, work a fpdc around the post of the same st,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join, (32 st’s)

Increase in every 4^th st

Row 4 ch 2, work a fpdc around the next 2 st’s, work 1 dc into the next st, work a fpdc around the post of the same st, *work a fpdc around the next 3 st’s, work 1 dc into the next st, work a fpdc around the post of the same st,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join, (40 st’s)

Increase in every 5^th st

Row 5 ch 2, work a fpdc around the next 3 st’s, work 1 dc into the next st, work a fpdc around the post of the same st, *work a fpdc around the next 4 st’s, work 1 dc into the next st, work a fpdc around the post of the same st,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join, (48 st’s)

Stop Increasing:

Row 6 ch 2, work a fpdc around every st to end, sl st to join, (48 st’s)

Repeat row 6 until your hat height is approx 5 inches, or the length you desire, you can sew in ends and  finish off here or you can add a ribbed or folding edge (for a ribbed or folding edging see instructions below)

Ribbed Edging Option:

The ribbed edging gives the beanie a nice, firm edge

Repeat row 6 until hat height is approx 4.5 inches

Row 1 ch 2, work a bphdc around next st, work a fphdc around next stitch, *work a bphdc around next st, work a fphdc around next stitch*, repeat from *to* to end, coming in from behind the ch 2, sl st into the space between the ch 2 and the 1^st bpdc

Repeat above row, 3 to 4 more times (or until length desired) then finish off

Folding Edge Option:

Repeat row 6 until your hat height is approx 5 inches

Row 1 ch 2, work 1 dc in each st to end, sl st to join

The Fold:

Row 2 ch 2, work 1 dc into the front loop only of each dc to end, sl st to join

Row 3 ch 2 and turn, (you will now be working with the inside of your hat facing you) work a fpdc around every dc to end, sl st to join,

Repeat row 3, 1 more time, or length desired

Finish off weave in ends, turn up folding edge

For some added flair, sew on a pompom, applique, flower or use assorted colored yarn

PRINTER FRIENDLY LINK HERE 

 

Now Available! Video Instructions!
Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4 1/2

Part 4 2/2

Below are some variations using the front post and back post stitch

More of Cats beanie babes, 0 to 3 months, 3 to 6 months.

Good luck with your baby beanie, I’d love to hear your feed back.

Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too.

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Hi all, I am taking a break for a while

Season's Greetings To One and All.

I am taking a break from my crochet and dabbling in some other crafty things.

I am temporarily off face book too.

I hope to be back in 2012.

Here is a picture of my grand daughter Cindy's first Christmas.

Here are some pictures of my current crafty adventures.

See you all in the new year, take care now.

Yarn Craft. Yarn Balls. Scrap Yarn Project.

I found a picture of a ball constructed with yarn, using a balloon and glue. I liked it! 

I had the image but no real instructions.

I have recorded my events for those of you who wish to make this fun project too.

I am not the first and will certainly not be the last to create one of these beauties :)

Materials needed:

Yarn of your choice, clear drying glue and a balloon.

This is how I first visualized how the yarn should be attached to the balloon. I cut lengths of yarn, put them into the container of glue, then pulled them out 1 by 1, ran my fingers down the piece of yarn getting out the excess glue, then roughly placed the strand of yarn around the balloon, piece by piece.

This was a slow and messy process, I also realized that I would not be able to turn the balloon over to do the bottom until the top dried as the yarn would slide off the balloon :(

So here is the balloon, sitting on my sink to dry, it is on a plastic lid so it will not stick to that and the excess glue is running freely onto my sink, more mess. I also tried using doilies, but I scrapped that very quickly, the doily medium was heavy and it slipped off. I had also made my glue too thin :(

The balloon took a couple of days to dry enough for me to be able to turn it to finish off the bottom part, too slow.

I had to rethink my approach, so I blew up a couple of more balloons in different sizes, BUT, this time I simply wrapped the balloon with the yarn, then brushed on the glue (which I had made stronger this time). The first one I wrapped was the little one and I wrapped far too much yarn on it, so the second one was the medium size and I took more care to wrap it thinner. After they were brushed with the glue on all sides and bottoms (yes the entire balloon in one go) I placed them in a sunny place to dry.

This is my experience with the popping of the balloons.

These are the balls almost dried.

This is how I hung my yarn balls as a decorative piece in my sun room.

This project is only limited by one's imagination, I see so much more that can be done with this technique, such as:

Make a ball for your garden, place small scraps of yarn into it, the birds can pull out the scrap yarn and use it to make their nest with.

Make small balls and allow an opening to insert a small led light into it and place these around your out door seating area.

By using sausage shape balloons you can make a plastic bag storage/dispenser.

Wrap only half the balloon for a decorative plate.

The list goes on and on.

I have mentioned in my video about using these for light shades or candles, I am not sure if these will be fire resistant, it could come down to your choice of fiber that is used, more research is needed here if  I am going to do that.


This is my next project for xmas, small decorations for my xmas get together, I am using cotton until I run out of that, then I will just use scrap yarn in xmas colors.

Home made glue to use:

Combine ½ cup flour and 2 cups cold water in a bowl.
Boil 2 cups of water in a sauce pan and add the flour and cold water mixture.
Bring to a boil again.
Remove from heat and add 3 tablespoons of sugar.
Let cool. The paste will thicken as it cools. 

Crochet Tunisian Entralac. Success of Failure?

My Tunisian Entralac journey began with some practice and more practice. I wanted to understand how it worked and why I needed the stitch count that was used. 

You need a vertical and horizontal stitch count, plus 1, for each square you begin with, you will count the last loop on the hook for the last square made as the plus 1.

Elizabeth Ham made a fantastic video tutorial that I first followed, I also watched some other video tutorials that came in handy.

So I had done my research, bought my yarn and began on my first project.

My first project was a couple of covers for the head part of my recliner lounge chairs.

The squares a 5x5.

These did take much longer to make than I thought they would. I was using a 4.00 mm, US G/6 hook and 8 ply, US 4 ply yarn.

Now because my hubby lives in his recliner, I made him some arm covers, but this time I used 2 strands of the yarn, a larger hook and I had a much larger working piece in no time.

Next it was onto a throw for the couch, I had cracked the stitch and understood it so much more, so I decided to make the throw with bigger squares, 16 ply, US 8 ply and an 8 mm US L/11hook. I'm still making this throw and need to stock up on more yarn for completion.

The squares are 10 x 10.

Now upon surfing crochet as I like to do at times, I came across a slipper pattern made with granny squares and the placement guide was this picture

which came from this site.

Well why not ? Was my very first thought!

That could be made with the Tunisian Entralac method.

I used what I thought would be a close st count for my size slipper, 12 x 12 squares and the same ply yarn and hook as the throw.

This is what it looked liked once I finished the squares.

The next step was to sew it together.

Top view

Bottom view

I could see I had made these too big for myself

But what the heck? I had tried and almost succeeded, back to the drawing board for measurements.

Waste not want not, they are now on display as a pot plant cover in my sun room.

I'm very pleased that I did try this method for the slipper, I can see myself trying this with other items too.

Thanks for reading my post and just maybe you have learned a lesson along with me.

Crochet Leaf On My Hat

Crochet Leaf On My Hat

Very suttle leaves in groups of 4 are spread over the hat in 2 pattern row repeats.

Size: Medium Adult

Main color approx 60 gm’s

Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6

Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply

US terms used through out pattern

St’s Used:

Sl st = slip stitch

Ch = chain

Dc = double crochet

Special Notes:

Dc 3 together = yo hook, insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops on hook,(2 loops on hook) yo hook insert hook into next st, draw up a loop,(4 loops on hook) yo hook draw through 2 loops on hook (3 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo hook, pull through 2 loops, (4 loops on hook) yo hook, pull through all 4 loops on hook

Skill = beginner +

Time =leisurely 4 hours

Special notes: You will need the 72 dc, basic dc crown pattern to begin making your hat, which is in written form and a video tutorial, located at this link.

http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2011/07/crochet-basic-dc-crown.html

Complete your basic dc crown. The chain 3 is the first st of every round

Pattern rows:

 Row 1: ch 7 (ch 7= 1dc and a ch 4), skip 5 dc’s, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in next dc,  ch 4 , skip next 5 dc’s,  *work 1 dc in next dc, ch 4, skip next 5 dc’s, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in next dc, ch 4, skip next 5 dc’s,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round ( 6 groups of (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) 6 single dc’s)

Row 2: ch 5 (ch 5 = 1 dc and a ch 2), work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,) ch 2, work 1 dc around the ch 3 group, ch 2, work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,) ch 2,  *work 1 dc in the next dc, ch 2, work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,)  ch 2, work 1 dc around the ch 3 group, ch 2, work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,) ch 2,* repeat from*to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 3: ch 5 (ch 5 = 1 dc and a ch 2), work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2, work (3 dc in the next dc), ch 2, work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2, *work 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2, work (3 dc in the next dc), ch 2, work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

 At the end of row 3, your hat may look like a little out of shape, just like this picture

Dc 3 together over next 5 st’s, see special notes above:

Row 4: ch 4 (ch 4 = 1 dc and a ch 1) work a dc 3 together this way (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip next dc, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 1,* work 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip next dc, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 1,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

At the end of row 4, your hat will come back into shape, just like this picture

Row 5: ch 7 (ch 7= 1dc and a ch 4), skip over the dc dec st, skip next dc, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in the ch space, ch 4, skip next dc, skip over the dc dec st, *work 1 dc in the next dc, ch 4, skip over the dc dec st, skip next dc, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in the ch space, ch 4, skip next dc, skip over the dc dec st, * repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 6: repeat row 2

Row 7: repeat row 3

Row 8: repeat row 4

Hat before, making the hat edging

 

Hat edge:

Row 1: ch 2 (ch 2=1 hdc), work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space, *work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 2 to join round (66 hdc)

if your stitch count is out a couple of  st’s, that’s okay, you can add or decrease anywhere on the next row, this is not an exact size, try your hat on and see if you want it smaller or larger, make adjustments on the next row

Row 2: ch 2 (ch 2=1 hdc), work 1 hdc in each hdc around, sl st to top of beginning ch 2 to join round

Row 3, Row 4 and Row 5: repeat Row 2, finish off weave in ends. But if you want your hat longer add a few more rows of row 2:

PRINTER FRIENDLY VERSION HERE

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

I hope that you have found these instructions useful.
Please like me on face book or and comment on my face book page for more user information.
I am always more than happy to help.

Crochet Tunisian 2 Ways

Playing with the Tunisian stitch again, I just love it's versatility, here I am making a head rest cover for my new lounge suite, almost 1 down and a few to go, to see this stitch in action got to this link.

More on the Tunisian short row dish cloth, I made one to the recommended beginning ch length and the other was an even shorter one as I had less yarn to use.

The small one with a picot edging:

The larger one:

To see this stitch in action got to this link.

Crochet Crocodile Stitch Adult Hat pattern

 

Below, pattern tester Elizabeth Parsons, thank you Beth.

 Below Pattern tester, Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.

 I ran out of the color I began making my hat in, so  I switched colors to a green, it kind of reminded me of a strawberry, so I ended up adding some leaves and a lady bug for a quirky hat.

Size small to medium/ if you want a larger hat use a larger hook

Main color approx 100 gm’s

Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6

Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply

US terms used through out pattern

St’s used:

Sl st = slip stitch

Ch = chain

Hdc foundation row= half double crochet foundation row

Fpdc= front post double crochet crocodile st, Special st see note

Dc= double crochet

Skill= Intermediate

Time=leisurely 4 hours

PLEASE READ ALL NOTES:

You will need to know how to make a hdc foundation row prior to beginning your hat.

Your hat will begin at the bottom of the hat edge

Special st: the crocodile st is worked over the 2 dc’s that are made together in the 1 dc. 5 fpdc are worked around the 1^st dc, then another 5 fpdc worked around the 2^nd dc. To work your 1 st, 5 fpdc you must turn your working piece side ways to the right, so you will work your 5 fpdc side on from the top of the post downwards. When working the other side, you will turn your working piece side ways to the left, so you will work your 5 fpdc side on from the bottom of the post and upwards

 Row 1: make a hdc foundation row of 72, sl st to form a circle into the top of the ch of the first hdc (72 hdc)

Picture, should be set up row 2

Set up Round:

Row 2: ch 4, skip 2 hdc’s, work 2 dc’s in next hdc, ch1, skip 2 hdc’s, *work 1 dc in next hdc, ch 1, skip 2 hdc’s, work 2 dc’s in next hdc, ch 1, skip 2 hdc’s* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round (12 x 1dc, 12 x 2 dc’s)

Pattern Round:

Row 3: work 1 sc in same space as join,  work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the sc space to join round

Set up Round:

Row 4: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, ch 1, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 1,  *work 2 dc in the sl st space, ch 1, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 1* repeat from *to* to end, do not join, see next row

Picture should be set up round 4

Pattern Round:

Row 5: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Special note: the pattern of the hat does begin to tighten up by this stage, so you will be chaining 2 now instead of 1:

Set up Round:

Row 6: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 2,  *work 2 dc in the sl st space, ch 2, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 2* repeat from *to* to end,

Pattern Round:

Row 7: repeat Row 5:

Set up Round:

Row 8: Repeat Row 6:

Continue working in pattern sequence until your work measures approx 5.5 inches long, ending on a pattern row

Decreasing for the crown of the hat: You will not be making a ch 1 or ch 2 for the first decrease row:

Set up Round: Decrease: decrease is made by omitting the ch 2

Row 1: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, *work 2 dc in the sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s,* repeat from *to* to end,

Pattern Round:

Row 2: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Decreasing for this row: If we think of our pattern st as a clock, we have 12 crocodile stitches around, we will make our decrease in the set up row at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions = 2 decreases:

Set up Round: Decrease

Row 3: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, work 2 dc in the sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 5 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 2 more times

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 4: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 2 decreases

Row 5: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, work 2 dc in the sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 4 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 1 more time

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 6: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 2 decreases

Row 7: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s),3 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s,

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 8: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 3 decreases

Row 9: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this)

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 10: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space ( 3 crocodile st’s only), break off yarn leaving a tail to sew opening closed, turn hat in side out and thread around opening then pull thread closed.

You will need to sew up the small gap in the beginning hdc foundation row as well.

 

 

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.