Saturday, March 1, 2014

The Amazing Top Down, No Sew, 8 Row, Bootie Pattern






Introduction: The bootie is made from the cuff down and in the round, then onto a flat row for a bit of shaping, then back into the round to shape it all off. If you can do the stitches explained you can make this and if you want a super quick and easy bootie pattern, this is for you!

The idea behind this pattern was to create a functional bootie that would be quick and easy to make. I am hoping that this pattern will not only reach the beginner, but the many of thousands whom crochet for charity. I am a strong believer in the “Pay It Forward” motto and this is my way of helping those who help others.


This blog entry is my submission to the Deramores Blog Awards 2014. Deramores is the UK’s number one online retailer of knitting and crochet supplies.
http://www.deramores.com/blog-awards-how-to-enter/
If you would like to participate in the Deramores Blog awards, please click on this link, www.deramores.com/blog-awards:

To fit: Newborn
Materials list:
Hook size: 4.00mm US G/6
Yarn: 8 ply approx 20 gm’s US DK/Medium
Sewing needle, optional
Small amount of ribbon, optional
US crochet terms used
Skill level: beginner
Tension: medium
Time: approx 1hour
Stitches used:
Sl st=slip stitch
Ch=chain
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Dc =double crochet
Dec = decrease
Hdc decrease over 2 st’s = yo hook, insert hook into the 1st st and pull up a loop, (3 loops on hook), insert hook into next st and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook),  yo over hook, pull through all 4 loops on hook
Hdc decrease over 3 st’s = yo hook, insert hook into the 1st st and pull up a loop, (3 loops on hook), insert hook into next st and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), insert hook into next st and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo over hook, pull through all 4 loops on hook
Dc decrease over 2 st’s = yo hook, insert hook into the 1st st and pull up a loop, (3 loops on hook), insert hook into next st and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook),  yo over hook, pull through 3 loops on hook, yo hook and pull through 2 loops on hook
Dc decrease over 3 st’s = yo hook, insert hook into the 1st st and pull up a loop, (3 loops on hook), insert hook into next st and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), insert hook into next st and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo over hook, pull through 4 loops on hook, yo hook and pull through 2 loops on hook
Please note! The beginning ch 2 of every rnd is not counted as a st.
To Begin, ch 20 loosely, sl st into 1st chain to form a ring (20 ch)
Row 1, ch 2, work 1 dc in same space as ch 2, work 1 dc in each ch to end, to join sl st into the top of the 1 st dc of this round (20 dc)
Row 2, ch 2, work 1 dc in same space as ch 2, work 1 dc in each dc to end, to join sl st into the top of the 1 st of this round (20 dc)
Row 3, repeat row 2
 Row 4, ch 10, work 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, work 1 dc in next 7 ch, skip the dc that has the 10 ch coming out of it and work 1 dc in each of next 8 dc, work a dc dec over the next 3 dc, work 1 dc in each of next 8 dc, now working on the opposite side of the ch 10, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 ch spaces, ch 2 and turn (33 dc)

Row 5, work 1 dc in same space as ch 2, work 1 dc in each of the next 14 dc, work a dc dec over the next 3 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 15 dc, ch 2, do not turn, please have the end of the toe section facing up, work 1 dc into each end of the 2 center rows of the toe, skip the ch 2, sl st into the next dc, (33 dc)
 Next row you will work every dc into the front loops only
Row 6, ch 2, work 1 dc in same space as ch 2, work 1 dc in each of the next 32 dc, sl st into the 1st dc of this round (33 dc)

Row 7, ch 2 and turn, work a dc dec over the first 2 dc, dc dec over the 3rd and 4th dc, work 1 dc in each of next 13 dc, work a dc dec over next 3 dc, work 1 dc in each of next 11 dc, work a dc dec over the last 2 st’s, sl st st into the top of the 1st dc of this round (28 dc)
 Row 8, ch 1, do not turn, work a hdc dec over the first 2 dc, hdc dec over the 3rd and 4th dc, work 1 hdc in each of next 10 dc, work a hdc dec over next 3 dc, work 1 hdc in each of next 9 dc, work a hdc dec over the last 2 st’s, sl st st into the top of the 1 st of this round (23 hdc)

To join sole seam, fold bootie in half and sl st together by using only 1 loop of the top st and 1 loop of the bottom st, break off yarn leaving a long tail, now you can turn your bootie inside out and sl st those loose ends in, or you can bring out the sewing needle and sew in the ends

The picture below shows the loops of the top and bottom st








I live in Australia and I do buy my yarn from Deramores, not only do they have a very large range to choose from, they also have any thing from free to low cost shipping, here is a picture of one of my yarn hauls from Deramores.
The more you buy the more you save!

 Their packaging for shipping across the sea's is very secure.



Free CrochetPattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood
Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.
 2014.
You can sell your items made from this pattern
I’d love to see this pattern used for charity
Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Thursday, February 27, 2014

The Dragon Scale – Adult Hat – Free Crochet Pattern




 The Dragon Scale
the dragon scale
Introduction: Whilst I was making this design and up to a second repeat of crocheting the pattern, I took some time to observe it closely and was not exactly pleased with the way it was looking. I turned it sideways and upside down and concluded that the pattern I was trying to make was not working out, it was quite by chance that I turned the hat inside out and discovered a whole new look, the wrong side looked great! So it was straight back to the pattern instructions to make it work. What is also great about this pattern are the instructions, they are so minimal. This design also reminds me of the crocodile stitch, but without the awkwardness of that particular stitch. Enjoy!
This is also available in newborn to 3 months, click here for the free pattern
 You can find the free pattern for the matching infinity cowl here
crochet dragon scale hat lilac
Hook size: 3.5mm, 4.0mm, 4.5 mm to 5.0mm, US G/6
Please note, by using a smaller or larger hook, you can make a smaller or larger beanie

To fit: Adult
Yarn: 8 ply approx 100 gm’s US DK/Medium.
US crochet terms used
Skill level: beginner +
Tension: medium
Time: approx 2 hours
Stitches used:
Sl st=slip stitch
Ch=chain
Sc = single crochet
Hdc= half double crochet
Dc =double crochet
Fpdc=front post double crochet
Special stitch: Shell st, (1 dc, 1 ch) x 6 times and 1 more dc in the same stitch
I’m using a 3.5 mm hook, my head circumference measures approx, 17 inches around after row 6. I will increase for 1 more round (row 7), to achieve my adult size hat, between, 18.5 and 21.5 inches circumference. In saying this, my stitch pattern is an 8 stitch repeat, I have either 4 st’s too many or 4 too less with the 84 dc count. I will work 1 more round and add 4 extra st’s spaced randomly apart.

Please note! The beginning ch 2 of every rnd is not counted as a st.
BEGIN: Making the crown
Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or use a magic ring.
Row 1, ch 2, work 12 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1st dc of this round, (you will join this way on every round)
(Increase in every st)
Row 2, ch 2, work 2 dc into each dc to end, sl st to join (24 dc)
(Increase in every 2nd st)
Row 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 2 dc into the next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*, repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (36 dc)
(Increase in every 3rd st)
Row 4, ch 1, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 2 dc into the next dc, * work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*,  repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (48 dc)
(Increase in every 4th st)
Row 5, ch 1, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc, * work 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*,  repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (60 dc)
(Increase in every 5th st)
Row 6, ch 1, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc, * work 1 dc into each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*,  repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (72 dc)
You have the option to increase to 84 st’s (increase in every 6th st) to 96 st’s, (increase in every 7th st), for a lovely beret/slouch, but these extra st’s will need to be decreased, the best place to do this is within the very first round of the hat edging
For a 3.5mm hook or beret/slouch only! (Increase in every 6th st)
Row 7, ch 1, work 1 dc in same place as join, work 1 dc into each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc, * work 1 dc into each of the next 5 dc, work 2 dc into the next dc*,  repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (84 dc)
Now turn your work, we will be working with the inside /wrong side of the hat facing us
Row 1, ch 1, work 1 sc in 1st st, skip 3 st’s, work a shell in next st, skip 3 st’s, *work 1 sc in next st, skip 3 st’s, work a shell in next st, skip 3 st’s* repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into beginning sc of this round  
Row 2, ch 2, work 1 dc in same space as ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the 2nd and 3rd dc, ch 2, work 1 sc in the next dc, ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 dc, *work 1 dc in the sc, work 1 fpdc around the 2nd and 3rd dc, ch 2, work 1 sc in the next dc, ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 dc*, * repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into beginning dc
Row 3, ch 4, work (1dc, ch 1) 2 times in same space as ch 4 and work 1 dc in same space, work 1 sc in next sc, *skip the next 2 fpdc, work a shell in the next dc, work 1 sc in the next sc* repeat from *to* to end, work (1 dc, 1 ch) x 3 times, in the same space as the beginning ch 4, to join, sl st into the 3rd ch space
Row 4, ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as ch 1, ch 2, work 1 fpdc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in the next sc, work 1 fpdc around the 2nd and 3rd dc, ch 2, *work 1 sc in the next dc, ch 2, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in the next sc, work 1 fpdc around the 2nd and 3rd dc, ch 2*, repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into beginning sc
Row 5, ch 1, work 1 sc in same space as ch 1, skip the next 2 fpdc, work a shell in the next dc, *work 1 sc in the next sc, skip the next 2 fpdc, work a shell in the next dc* repeat from *to* end, to join, sl st into beginning sc of this round
Row 11, repeat row 2
Row 12, repeat row 3
Row 13, repeat row 4
Row 14, repeat row 5
Repeat pattern sequence for length desired
For a regular size hat repeat rows 11 to 14, two more times, then row 2 once more
For a slouch repeat for length required ending on a row 2.
Turn work right way out
Row 1, ch 1, *work 1 hdc in each of next 2 fpdc, work 1 hdc in ch space, work 1 hdc in next sc, work 1 hdc in ch space, work 1 hdc in each of next 2 fpdc, work 1 hdc in next dc*, repeat from *to* to end, to join sl st into beginning hdc (56 hdc)
Hat edge option 1
Row 2, ch 1, work 1 hdc in each hdc to end, to join, sl st into beginning hdc, finish, break off yarn and sew in ends or work for length desired
Hat edge option 2 ribbed look
Row 2, ch 1, work 1 dc in 1st st, work 1 fpdc in next st, *work 1 dc in net st, work 1 fpdc in next st* repeat from *to* to end, to join sl st into the beginning dc, finish, break off yarn and sew in ends or work for length desired

crochet dragon scale in red

Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood
Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.
 2014.
crochet dragon scale infinity scarf
You can sell your items made from this pattern
I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use
Please link back to this pattern if you use it

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