Crochet Tunisian 2 Ways

Playing with the Tunisian stitch again, I just love it's versatility, here I am making a head rest cover for my new lounge suite, almost 1 down and a few to go, to see this stitch in action got to this link.

More on the Tunisian short row dish cloth, I made one to the recommended beginning ch length and the other was an even shorter one as I had less yarn to use.

The small one with a picot edging:

The larger one:

To see this stitch in action got to this link.

Crochet Crocodile Stitch Adult Hat pattern

 

Below, pattern tester Elizabeth Parsons, thank you Beth.

 Below Pattern tester, Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.

 I ran out of the color I began making my hat in, so  I switched colors to a green, it kind of reminded me of a strawberry, so I ended up adding some leaves and a lady bug for a quirky hat.

Size small to medium/ if you want a larger hat use a larger hook

Main color approx 100 gm’s

Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6

Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply

US terms used through out pattern

St’s used:

Sl st = slip stitch

Ch = chain

Hdc foundation row= half double crochet foundation row

Fpdc= front post double crochet crocodile st, Special st see note

Dc= double crochet

Skill= Intermediate

Time=leisurely 4 hours

PLEASE READ ALL NOTES:

You will need to know how to make a hdc foundation row prior to beginning your hat.

Your hat will begin at the bottom of the hat edge

Special st: the crocodile st is worked over the 2 dc’s that are made together in the 1 dc. 5 fpdc are worked around the 1^st dc, then another 5 fpdc worked around the 2^nd dc. To work your 1 st, 5 fpdc you must turn your working piece side ways to the right, so you will work your 5 fpdc side on from the top of the post downwards. When working the other side, you will turn your working piece side ways to the left, so you will work your 5 fpdc side on from the bottom of the post and upwards

 Row 1: make a hdc foundation row of 72, sl st to form a circle into the top of the ch of the first hdc (72 hdc)

Picture, should be set up row 2

Set up Round:

Row 2: ch 4, skip 2 hdc’s, work 2 dc’s in next hdc, ch1, skip 2 hdc’s, *work 1 dc in next hdc, ch 1, skip 2 hdc’s, work 2 dc’s in next hdc, ch 1, skip 2 hdc’s* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round (12 x 1dc, 12 x 2 dc’s)

Pattern Round:

Row 3: work 1 sc in same space as join,  work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the sc space to join round

Set up Round:

Row 4: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, ch 1, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 1,  *work 2 dc in the sl st space, ch 1, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 1* repeat from *to* to end, do not join, see next row

Picture should be set up round 4

Pattern Round:

Row 5: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Special note: the pattern of the hat does begin to tighten up by this stage, so you will be chaining 2 now instead of 1:

Set up Round:

Row 6: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 2,  *work 2 dc in the sl st space, ch 2, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 2* repeat from *to* to end,

Pattern Round:

Row 7: repeat Row 5:

Set up Round:

Row 8: Repeat Row 6:

Continue working in pattern sequence until your work measures approx 5.5 inches long, ending on a pattern row

Decreasing for the crown of the hat: You will not be making a ch 1 or ch 2 for the first decrease row:

Set up Round: Decrease: decrease is made by omitting the ch 2

Row 1: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, *work 2 dc in the sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s,* repeat from *to* to end,

Pattern Round:

Row 2: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Decreasing for this row: If we think of our pattern st as a clock, we have 12 crocodile stitches around, we will make our decrease in the set up row at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions = 2 decreases:

Set up Round: Decrease

Row 3: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, work 2 dc in the sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 5 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 2 more times

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 4: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 2 decreases

Row 5: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, work 2 dc in the sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 4 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 1 more time

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 6: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 2 decreases

Row 7: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s),3 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s,

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 8: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 3 decreases

Row 9: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this)

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 10: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space ( 3 crocodile st’s only), break off yarn leaving a tail to sew opening closed, turn hat in side out and thread around opening then pull thread closed.

You will need to sew up the small gap in the beginning hdc foundation row as well.

 

 

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

Crochet Catherine Wheel Hat

A big thank you to all of my pattern testers and their pictures!

Below, pattern tester Nancy Barrett, thank you Nancy.

 Below, pattern tester Cassandra, thank you Cassandra.

Below, pattern tester Shaunna Hallsson, thank you Shaunna.

Below, pattern tester Tinka Mushett, thank you Tinka.

 Below, pattern tester Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.

Below, pattern tester Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.

Below, pattern tester Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.

Below, pattern tester Selene Leonard, thank you Selene.

Below, pattern tester Tasha Rogers Murphy, thank you Tasha.

Below, pattern tester Phyliss Wendt Edwards, thank you Phyliss.

Catherine Wheel Stitch Hat

Main color approx 50 gm’s , alternating color approx 25 gm’s

Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6

Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply

US terms used through out pattern

St’s used:

Sl st = slip stitch

Ch = chain

Hdc= half double crochet

Dc= double crochet

Special st see note

Skill= beginner +

Time=leisurely 4 hours

PLEASE READ ALL NOTES:

Special notes: You will need the basic dc crown pattern to begin making your hat, which is in written form and a video tutorial, located at this link.

http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2011/07/crochet-basic-dc-crown.html

To make the small size hat, you will need the small 60 dc crown.

To make the larger hat size, you will need the large 72 dc crown.

Pattern is quite repetitive, so you will get the hang of it in no time

Special st’s: 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 dc= yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (3 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (4 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next sc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (5 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (6 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (7 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (8 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all 8 loops on hook.

Complete your basic dc crown

Pattern rows:

             

Row1: Join in alternating yarn to top of ch 3 space with a sl st, ch 3, work 2 more dc’s in same space as ch3, skip 2 dc’s, sc in next dc, skip 2 dc’s,* work 7 dc in the next dc, skip 2 dc’s, work 1 sc in next dc, skip 2 dc’s,* repeat from *to* to end, work 4 more dc’s in same space as beginning ch3, sl st into top of ch 3 to join round, break off and secure yarn

Row 2: Join in alternating yarn to any 4^th dc of the 7 dc group, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 sc in same space, ch 3, work 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 st’s, ch 3, *work 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, work 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 st’s, ch 3,*  repeat from *to* to end, sl st in to beginning sc to join, break off and secure yarn

Row 3: Join in alternating yarn to same space as the sl st, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 sc in same space, work 7 dc into the joining space of the 7 dc’s on previous row, *work 1 sc into the next sc, work 7 dc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st in to beginning sc to join, break off and secure yarn

Rows 2 to 3 form hat pattern: *repeat row 2 then repeat row 3* alternatively for height desired, then follow hat edge instruction 

Hat edge: Scallop                                      Straight

  
 HDC Hat Edge Below:

Hat edge:

Option 1:

Continue working pattern until hat height reaches approx 11 inches, finishing on a row of you choice, row 3 will give you a straight edge, row 2 will give you a scalloped hat edge

Option 2:

Continue working in pattern until hat height reaches approx 9 inches, finishing pattern on a row 2.

Row 1: with yarn of your choice, join in yarn to same space as the sl st, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 hdc in same space as join, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, work 1 hdc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, *work 1 hdc in the next sc, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, work 1 hdc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space,* repeat from *to* to end sl st in to beginning hdc to join,

Row 2: ch 1, work 1 hdc in each hdc around, sl st in to beginning hdc to join

Row 3: repeat row 2 for hat height desired or for hat height of approx 11 inches

Finish off hat sew in all loose ends

 Clare Sullivan, video tutorial, thank you Clare.

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

I hope that you have found these instructions useful.
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