Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Crochet Catherine Wheel Hat



A big thank you to all of my pattern testers and their pictures!

Below, pattern tester Nancy Barrett, thank you Nancy.
 Below, pattern tester Cassandra, thank you Cassandra.

Below, pattern tester Shaunna Hallsson, thank you Shaunna.
Below, pattern tester Tinka Mushett, thank you Tinka.
 Below, pattern tester Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.

Below, pattern tester Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.
Below, pattern tester Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.
Below, pattern tester Selene Leonard, thank you Selene.

Below, pattern tester Tasha Rogers Murphy, thank you Tasha.

Below, pattern tester Phyliss Wendt Edwards, thank you Phyliss.

Catherine Wheel Stitch Hat
Main color approx 50 gm’s , alternating color approx 25 gm’s
Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6
Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply
US terms used through out pattern
St’s used:
Sl st = slip stitch
Ch = chain
Hdc= half double crochet
Dc= double crochet
Special st see note
Skill= beginner +
Time=leisurely 4 hours
PLEASE READ ALL NOTES:

Special notes: You will need the basic dc crown pattern to begin making your hat, which is in written form and a video tutorial, located at this link.

To make the small size hat, you will need the small 60 dc crown.
To make the larger hat size, you will need the large 72 dc crown.



Pattern is quite repetitive, so you will get the hang of it in no time
Special st’s: 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 dc= yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (3 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (4 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next sc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (5 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (6 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (7 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (8 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all 8 loops on hook.

Complete your basic dc crown

Pattern rows:
             
Row1: Join in alternating yarn to top of ch 3 space with a sl st, ch 3, work 2 more dc’s in same space as ch3, skip 2 dc’s, sc in next dc, skip 2 dc’s,* work 7 dc in the next dc, skip 2 dc’s, work 1 sc in next dc, skip 2 dc’s,* repeat from *to* to end, work 4 more dc’s in same space as beginning ch3, sl st into top of ch 3 to join round, break off and secure yarn

Row 2: Join in alternating yarn to any 4th dc of the 7 dc group, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 sc in same space, ch 3, work 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 st’s, ch 3, *work 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, work 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 st’s, ch 3,*  repeat from *to* to end, sl st in to beginning sc to join, break off and secure yarn

Row 3: Join in alternating yarn to same space as the sl st, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 sc in same space, work 7 dc into the joining space of the 7 dc’s on previous row, *work 1 sc into the next sc, work 7 dc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st in to beginning sc to join, break off and secure yarn

Rows 2 to 3 form hat pattern: *repeat row 2 then repeat row 3* alternatively for height desired, then follow hat edge instruction 

Hat edge: Scallop                                      Straight









  
 HDC Hat Edge Below:

Hat edge:

Option 1:
Continue working pattern until hat height reaches approx 11 inches, finishing on a row of you choice, row 3 will give you a straight edge, row 2 will give you a scalloped hat edge


Option 2:
Continue working in pattern until hat height reaches approx 9 inches, finishing pattern on a row 2.

Row 1: with yarn of your choice, join in yarn to same space as the sl st, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 hdc in same space as join, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, work 1 hdc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, *work 1 hdc in the next sc, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, work 1 hdc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space,* repeat from *to* to end sl st in to beginning hdc to join,

Row 2: ch 1, work 1 hdc in each hdc around, sl st in to beginning hdc to join

Row 3: repeat row 2 for hat height desired or for hat height of approx 11 inches

Finish off hat sew in all loose ends





Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

I hope that you have found these instructions useful.
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I am always more than happy to help.


Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Crochet, Little Miss Pink Puff, Preemie Sweater

Little MissPinkPuff is designed for a preemie size baby approx 2 lb (1 to 3 lb)
The puff st makes the little sweater just a bit fancy.
If you are running short of your main yarn, the puff stitch can be also made over 2 dc in stead of the 3 dc puff st included in the pattern instructions.
You can barely tell the difference but there is a weight difference of 8 grams using the 2 dc puff stitch.
2 dc puff stitch=
yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop,(5 stitches on hook), you over draw through 4 loops, yo draw through 2 loops

 The one on the right has the 3 dc puff st

Size, preemie approx 2lb (1 to 3 lb)
Hook 4.00 mm US: G/6
Yarn: 8 ply US: 4ply
Tension: medium
Materials: small amount of contrast and main approx 40 gm’s,
3 small buttons
Stitches used:
Ch=chain
Sc=single crochet
Dc=double crochet
Back loop
Front loop
Dec=decrease
Inc=increase
Special Stitch Used: Puff st= yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, (7 loops on hook) yo hook and draw through 6 loops on hook ( 2 loops on hook), yo hook and draw through 2 loops

Special Instructions: #1 Sweater begins at collar.#2 Arms, back and front top yolk are worked onto collar #3 sides and back are worked in one piece as armhole st’s are skipped. #4 Bottom, side and collar edgings are worked in next. #5 Arms are joined in by picking up st’s from skipped st’s under yolk.

Beginning ch 3 is counted as the first st of every row

Begin with contrasting color: Ch 37
Row 1: work 1 sc in 2nd chain from hook, work 1 sc in each chain across, change to main color, (36 sc) then ch 3 and turn (ch 3 is first st of next row)

Row 2: work 1 dc in each sc across (36 dc), ch 3 and turn

Decrease row (shape collar)
Row 3: work 1 dc in next dc, dc next 3 dc’s together (dec made), work 1 dc in each of the next 26 dc, , dc next 3 dc’s together, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st’s, ( 32 dc) ch 3 and turn
 
Increase row (shape shoulders)
Working row 4 in back loops only
Row 4: work 1 dc in next 7 dc, work 4 dc’s in each of the next 2 st’s (inc made),work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc’s, work 2 dc’s into each of the next 4 dc’s (inc made), work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc’s, work 4 dc’s in each of the next 2 st’s (inc made) work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (48 dc) ch 3 and turn

Increase row
Row 5: work 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 16 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn

Row 6: work 1 dc in each dc to end, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn
Working row 7 in back loops only
Shape arm holes
Row 7: work 1 dc in next dc, work 1 puff st in next 6 dc’s, skip the next 12 dc, work 1 puff st in each of the next 16 dc, skip the next 12 dc, work 1 puff st in next 6 dc’s, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st’s, ch 3 and turn (2 dc, 28 puff st, 2dc=32 st’s)

Row 8: work 1 dc in next dc, work 1 puff st into each of next 28 puff st’s, work 1 dc in next 2 st’s, ch 3 and turn (2 dc, 28 puff st, 2dc=32 st’s)

Row 9, 10, 11 and repeat row 8, change to contrasting color and chain1 sc to turn on last row (row 11)

Special Instructions: Before Beginning The Edge Trim: This is just a guide, go to row 12 to begin the edge trim
Working sc in contrast color #1, sc along the bottom edge, #2,  sc up lefthand side, #3, sl st across collar, #4, sc along right hand side and making a ch 2 for 3 button loops and sc to end

Row: 12 work 1 sc in each dc  and puff st, to last dc, work 2 sc in this dc, (left edge) working 2 sc in the side of a dc and 1 sc in the side of a ch 3 (approx 16 sc) to the sc space of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, sl st loosely across the beginning chains of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, work down the right hand side the same way as you did the left hand side, stopping at the 2nd back loop row to make first button loop, work 1 sc, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 2 spaces, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 2 spaces, ch 2,  (3 button loops) work 1 sc in same sequence as before to end of the side, work 1 sc in the same space as the first sc made, sl st to next st,  finish off yarn


Adding the sleeves

Right sleeve
Row 1:  (turn garment up side down, with the front facing you) join in yarn to the same back loop of the last puff st worked on back panel, ch 2, in same place work a puff st, work 1 puff st in the back loops of the next 12 dc of the sleeve top, work 1 puff st in the same place as the next puff st, work 1 puff st in the centre space of the front and back panel, sl st into the top of the first puff st to join round (15 puff st’s) it will not matter if you are a stitch out

Row 2: ch 2,work 1 puff st in same st, work 1 puff st in each puff st to end of row, sl st into the top of the first puff st to join round  (15 puff st’s)

Row 3 and Row 4: repeat row 2, change to contrast color

Row 5: ch 1, work 1 sc in each puff st around, sl st to first sc to join round

Row 6: ch 1, work 1 sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc to join round, finish off yarn.

Left sleeve
Turn garment up side down, with the front facing you, join in yarn to the same back loop of the last puff st worked on the left hand panel, repeat as for right sleeve

Sew in all loose ends

Buttons
Sew buttons onto the left hand side, making sure they are evenly placed, opposite the ch 2 button loops

 You can find Little Boy Blue Here
Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Crochet, Little Boy Blue Preemie Sweater

Little Boy Blue, Preemie Sweater


Size, preemie approx 2lb (1 to 3 lb)
Hook 4.00 mm US: G/6
Yarn: 8 ply US: 4ply
Tension: medium
Materials: small amount of contrast and main approx 25 gm’s,
3 small buttons
Stitches used:
Ch=chain
Sc=single crochet
Dc=double crochet
Back loop
Front loop
Dec=decrease
Inc=increase
 
Special Instructions: #1 Sweater begins at collar.#2 Arms, back and front top yolk are worked onto collar #3 sides and back are worked in one piece as armhole st’s are skipped. #4 Bottom, side and collar edgings are worked in next. #5 Arms are joined in by picking up st’s from skipped st’s under yolk.

Beginning ch 3 is counted as the first st of every row

Begin with contrasting color: Ch 37
Row 1: work 1 sc in 2nd chain from hook, work 1 sc in each chain across, change to main color, (36 sc) then ch 3 and turn (ch 3 is first st of next row)

Row 2: work 1 dc in each sc across (36 dc), ch 3 and turn
Decrease row  (shape collar)
Row 3: work 1 dc in next dc, dc next 3 dc’s together (dec made), work 1 dc in each of the next 26 dc, , dc next 3 dc’s together, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st’s, ( 32 dc) ch 3 and turn
Increase row  (shape shoulders)
Working row 4 in back loops only

Row 4: work 1 dc in next 7 dc, work 4 dc’s in each of the next 2 st’s (inc made),work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc’s, work 2 dc’s into each of the next 4 dc’s (inc made), work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc’s, work 4 dc’s in each of the next 2 st’s (inc made) work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (48 dc) ch 3 and turn

Increase row
Row 5: work 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 16 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn

 Picture, end of row 5
 
Row 6: work 1 dc in each dc to end, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn


Working row 7 in front loops only
Shape arm holes
Row 7: work 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, skip the next 12 dc,  work 1 dc in each of the next 16 dc, skip the next 12 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (32 dc) ch 3 and turn

You will now be working the back and front panels in one piece
Row 8:  work 1 dc in each dc to end, (32 dc) ch 3 and turn

Repeat row 8, 4 more times, change to contrasting color and chaining 1 sc to turn on last row (row 12)

Special Instructions Before Beginning The Edge Trim: This is just a guide, go to row 13 to begin the edge trim (after the next picture).
Working sc in contrast color #1, sc along the bottom edge, #2,  sc up right hand side, #3, sl st across collar, #4, sc along left hand side and making a ch 2 for 3 button loops and sc to end


Begin Edge Trim
Row: 13 work 1 sc in each dc to last dc, work 2 sc in this dc, (right edge) working 2 sc in the side of a dc and 1 sc in the side of a ch 3 (approx 16 sc) to the sc space of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, sl st loosely across the beginning chains of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, work down left the hand side the same way as you did the right hand side, stopping at the front loop row to make first button loop, work 1 sc, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 3 spaces, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 3 spaces, ch 2,  (3 button loops) work 1 sc in same sequence as before to end of the side, work 1 sc in the same space as the first sc made, sl st to next st,  finish off yarn

Adding the sleeves

Left sleeve
Row 1:  (turn garment up side down, with the front facing you) join in yarn to the same back loop of the last dc worked, ch 3, work 1 dc in the back loops of the next 12 dc, work 1 dc in the same back loop of the next dc, work 1 dc in the side of the next dc, work 1 dc in the space as the dc you just worked into the side of, work 1 dc in the side of the next dc, (17 dc) sl st to top of ch 3 to join round (if you are out a st that’s okay)

Row 2: ch 3, work 1 dc in each dc around, (17 dc) sl st to top of ch 3 to join round

Row 3: repeat row 2

Row 4: ch 1 work 1 sc into top of ch 3 and in each st around, sl st to first sc to join round (17 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, work 1 sc into each sc around, sl st to first sc to join round (17 sc)
Change to contrasting color
Row 6: ch 1 work 1 sc in each st around, sl st to join finish off

Right sleeve
Row 1:  (turn garment up side down, with the back facing you) repeat instructions as per left sleeve

Buttons
Sew buttons onto the right hand side, making sure they are evenly placed, opposite the ch 2 button loops


You can find Little Miss Pink Puff Here

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

Sunday, July 31, 2011

Crochet The Tezzie Hat

The Tezzie Hat

Look for me on Face Book And Like My Page More Free Patterns

Close up of the Tezzie stitch

The Tezzie hat with the hat edge completed


HAVE YOU MADE A TEZZIE HAT?
CONTACT ME TO PLACE YOUR PICTURE IN THIS POST


Clorinda Espinoza made this rasta version.
 


Hook size: AU 4.00mm. US G/6
Yarn ply: AU 8 ply. US 4 ply approx 50 gm’s
Tension: See basic crown
US terms used
Beginner +
St’s used:
Ch= chain
Sl st= slip st
Sc= single crochet
Dc= double crochet
Fpdc=front post double crochet
Bpdc= back post double crochet
Trbl= treble
Fptrbl= front post treble
Introduction: Hat pattern is worked over 3 rows. 
The set up row,

the pattern stitch row,

the completion row

Special stitch= 4 fptrbl’s worked around the 2nd dc of the skipped dc of the row below

The stitch count for the pattern is over 6 st’s and repeated around
 
To begin complete the basic dc crown for the size you want, the beginning ch 3 is counted as a stitch
Pattern rows:

Row 1: ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, ch4, skip next 4 dc, *work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, ch 4, skip next 4 dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 2: ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, work 4 fptrbl’s around the 2nd skipped dc of the row below, *working back on this row, work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, work 4 fptrbl’s in the 2nd skipped dc of the row below,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 3: ch 3, work 1 dc in each stitch around, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round, please count your dc’s, you should have the same amount of dc’s as you did before you began the pattern rows

For both small and medium to large size hat, repeat pattern 3 more times (4 times in all, 12 rows in total)

 Height with out the hat edge, slightly stretched, is approx 8 inches high

Begin hat edge: the beginning ch 3 will not be counted as a st

Row 1: ch 3, work a fpdc around same st, work a bpdc around next dc, *work a fpdc around the next dc, work a bpdc around the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, making sure to end with a bpdc, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 2: ch 3, *work a fpdc around the fpdc, work a bpdc around the bpdc* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join round

Your hat, (slightly stretched) should now be approx 9 inches in height, you can finish off here or repeat row 2 of hat edge for a higher hat height


The pattern stitch can be worked into any hat that is devisable by 6 dc, such as 12, 24, 36, 48 and so on. 




Another great video tutorial by Bobwilson123 visit her on face book or you tube for more free video tutorials! Thanks Bob!



Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.