Crochet Tunisian Entralac. Success of Failure?

My Tunisian Entralac journey began with some practice and more practice. I wanted to understand how it worked and why I needed the stitch count that was used. 

You need a vertical and horizontal stitch count, plus 1, for each square you begin with, you will count the last loop on the hook for the last square made as the plus 1.

Elizabeth Ham made a fantastic video tutorial that I first followed, I also watched some other video tutorials that came in handy.

So I had done my research, bought my yarn and began on my first project.

My first project was a couple of covers for the head part of my recliner lounge chairs.

The squares a 5x5.

These did take much longer to make than I thought they would. I was using a 4.00 mm, US G/6 hook and 8 ply, US 4 ply yarn.

Now because my hubby lives in his recliner, I made him some arm covers, but this time I used 2 strands of the yarn, a larger hook and I had a much larger working piece in no time.

Next it was onto a throw for the couch, I had cracked the stitch and understood it so much more, so I decided to make the throw with bigger squares, 16 ply, US 8 ply and an 8 mm US L/11hook. I'm still making this throw and need to stock up on more yarn for completion.

The squares are 10 x 10.

Now upon surfing crochet as I like to do at times, I came across a slipper pattern made with granny squares and the placement guide was this picture

which came from this site.

Well why not ? Was my very first thought!

That could be made with the Tunisian Entralac method.

I used what I thought would be a close st count for my size slipper, 12 x 12 squares and the same ply yarn and hook as the throw.

This is what it looked liked once I finished the squares.

The next step was to sew it together.

Top view

Bottom view

I could see I had made these too big for myself

But what the heck? I had tried and almost succeeded, back to the drawing board for measurements.

Waste not want not, they are now on display as a pot plant cover in my sun room.

I'm very pleased that I did try this method for the slipper, I can see myself trying this with other items too.

Thanks for reading my post and just maybe you have learned a lesson along with me.

Crochet Leaf On My Hat

Crochet Leaf On My Hat

Very suttle leaves in groups of 4 are spread over the hat in 2 pattern row repeats.

Size: Medium Adult

Main color approx 60 gm’s

Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6

Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply

US terms used through out pattern

St’s Used:

Sl st = slip stitch

Ch = chain

Dc = double crochet

Special Notes:

Dc 3 together = yo hook, insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops on hook,(2 loops on hook) yo hook insert hook into next st, draw up a loop,(4 loops on hook) yo hook draw through 2 loops on hook (3 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo hook, pull through 2 loops, (4 loops on hook) yo hook, pull through all 4 loops on hook

Skill = beginner +

Time =leisurely 4 hours

Special notes: You will need the 72 dc, basic dc crown pattern to begin making your hat, which is in written form and a video tutorial, located at this link.

http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2011/07/crochet-basic-dc-crown.html

Complete your basic dc crown. The chain 3 is the first st of every round

Pattern rows:

 Row 1: ch 7 (ch 7= 1dc and a ch 4), skip 5 dc’s, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in next dc,  ch 4 , skip next 5 dc’s,  *work 1 dc in next dc, ch 4, skip next 5 dc’s, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in next dc, ch 4, skip next 5 dc’s,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round ( 6 groups of (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) 6 single dc’s)

Row 2: ch 5 (ch 5 = 1 dc and a ch 2), work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,) ch 2, work 1 dc around the ch 3 group, ch 2, work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,) ch 2,  *work 1 dc in the next dc, ch 2, work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,)  ch 2, work 1 dc around the ch 3 group, ch 2, work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,) ch 2,* repeat from*to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 3: ch 5 (ch 5 = 1 dc and a ch 2), work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2, work (3 dc in the next dc), ch 2, work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2, *work 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2, work (3 dc in the next dc), ch 2, work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

 At the end of row 3, your hat may look like a little out of shape, just like this picture

Dc 3 together over next 5 st’s, see special notes above:

Row 4: ch 4 (ch 4 = 1 dc and a ch 1) work a dc 3 together this way (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip next dc, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 1,* work 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip next dc, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 1,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

At the end of row 4, your hat will come back into shape, just like this picture

Row 5: ch 7 (ch 7= 1dc and a ch 4), skip over the dc dec st, skip next dc, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in the ch space, ch 4, skip next dc, skip over the dc dec st, *work 1 dc in the next dc, ch 4, skip over the dc dec st, skip next dc, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in the ch space, ch 4, skip next dc, skip over the dc dec st, * repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 6: repeat row 2

Row 7: repeat row 3

Row 8: repeat row 4

Hat before, making the hat edging

 

Hat edge:

Row 1: ch 2 (ch 2=1 hdc), work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space, *work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 2 to join round (66 hdc)

if your stitch count is out a couple of  st’s, that’s okay, you can add or decrease anywhere on the next row, this is not an exact size, try your hat on and see if you want it smaller or larger, make adjustments on the next row

Row 2: ch 2 (ch 2=1 hdc), work 1 hdc in each hdc around, sl st to top of beginning ch 2 to join round

Row 3, Row 4 and Row 5: repeat Row 2, finish off weave in ends. But if you want your hat longer add a few more rows of row 2:

PRINTER FRIENDLY VERSION HERE

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

I hope that you have found these instructions useful.
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Crochet Tunisian 2 Ways

Playing with the Tunisian stitch again, I just love it's versatility, here I am making a head rest cover for my new lounge suite, almost 1 down and a few to go, to see this stitch in action got to this link.

More on the Tunisian short row dish cloth, I made one to the recommended beginning ch length and the other was an even shorter one as I had less yarn to use.

The small one with a picot edging:

The larger one:

To see this stitch in action got to this link.

Crochet Crocodile Stitch Adult Hat pattern

 

Below, pattern tester Elizabeth Parsons, thank you Beth.

 Below Pattern tester, Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.

 I ran out of the color I began making my hat in, so  I switched colors to a green, it kind of reminded me of a strawberry, so I ended up adding some leaves and a lady bug for a quirky hat.

Size small to medium/ if you want a larger hat use a larger hook

Main color approx 100 gm’s

Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6

Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply

US terms used through out pattern

St’s used:

Sl st = slip stitch

Ch = chain

Hdc foundation row= half double crochet foundation row

Fpdc= front post double crochet crocodile st, Special st see note

Dc= double crochet

Skill= Intermediate

Time=leisurely 4 hours

PLEASE READ ALL NOTES:

You will need to know how to make a hdc foundation row prior to beginning your hat.

Your hat will begin at the bottom of the hat edge

Special st: the crocodile st is worked over the 2 dc’s that are made together in the 1 dc. 5 fpdc are worked around the 1^st dc, then another 5 fpdc worked around the 2^nd dc. To work your 1 st, 5 fpdc you must turn your working piece side ways to the right, so you will work your 5 fpdc side on from the top of the post downwards. When working the other side, you will turn your working piece side ways to the left, so you will work your 5 fpdc side on from the bottom of the post and upwards

 Row 1: make a hdc foundation row of 72, sl st to form a circle into the top of the ch of the first hdc (72 hdc)

Picture, should be set up row 2

Set up Round:

Row 2: ch 4, skip 2 hdc’s, work 2 dc’s in next hdc, ch1, skip 2 hdc’s, *work 1 dc in next hdc, ch 1, skip 2 hdc’s, work 2 dc’s in next hdc, ch 1, skip 2 hdc’s* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round (12 x 1dc, 12 x 2 dc’s)

Pattern Round:

Row 3: work 1 sc in same space as join,  work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the sc space to join round

Set up Round:

Row 4: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, ch 1, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 1,  *work 2 dc in the sl st space, ch 1, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 1* repeat from *to* to end, do not join, see next row

Picture should be set up round 4

Pattern Round:

Row 5: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Special note: the pattern of the hat does begin to tighten up by this stage, so you will be chaining 2 now instead of 1:

Set up Round:

Row 6: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 2,  *work 2 dc in the sl st space, ch 2, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 2* repeat from *to* to end,

Pattern Round:

Row 7: repeat Row 5:

Set up Round:

Row 8: Repeat Row 6:

Continue working in pattern sequence until your work measures approx 5.5 inches long, ending on a pattern row

Decreasing for the crown of the hat: You will not be making a ch 1 or ch 2 for the first decrease row:

Set up Round: Decrease: decrease is made by omitting the ch 2

Row 1: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, *work 2 dc in the sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s,* repeat from *to* to end,

Pattern Round:

Row 2: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Decreasing for this row: If we think of our pattern st as a clock, we have 12 crocodile stitches around, we will make our decrease in the set up row at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions = 2 decreases:

Set up Round: Decrease

Row 3: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, work 2 dc in the sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 5 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 2 more times

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 4: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 2 decreases

Row 5: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, work 2 dc in the sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 4 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 1 more time

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 6: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 2 decreases

Row 7: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s),3 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s,

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 8: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 3 decreases

Row 9: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this)

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 10: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space ( 3 crocodile st’s only), break off yarn leaving a tail to sew opening closed, turn hat in side out and thread around opening then pull thread closed.

You will need to sew up the small gap in the beginning hdc foundation row as well.

 

 

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

Crochet Catherine Wheel Hat

A big thank you to all of my pattern testers and their pictures!

Below, pattern tester Nancy Barrett, thank you Nancy.

 Below, pattern tester Cassandra, thank you Cassandra.

Below, pattern tester Shaunna Hallsson, thank you Shaunna.

Below, pattern tester Tinka Mushett, thank you Tinka.

 Below, pattern tester Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.

Below, pattern tester Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.

Below, pattern tester Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.

Below, pattern tester Selene Leonard, thank you Selene.

Below, pattern tester Tasha Rogers Murphy, thank you Tasha.

Below, pattern tester Phyliss Wendt Edwards, thank you Phyliss.

Catherine Wheel Stitch Hat

Main color approx 50 gm’s , alternating color approx 25 gm’s

Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6

Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply

US terms used through out pattern

St’s used:

Sl st = slip stitch

Ch = chain

Hdc= half double crochet

Dc= double crochet

Special st see note

Skill= beginner +

Time=leisurely 4 hours

PLEASE READ ALL NOTES:

Special notes: You will need the basic dc crown pattern to begin making your hat, which is in written form and a video tutorial, located at this link.

http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2011/07/crochet-basic-dc-crown.html

To make the small size hat, you will need the small 60 dc crown.

To make the larger hat size, you will need the large 72 dc crown.

Pattern is quite repetitive, so you will get the hang of it in no time

Special st’s: 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 dc= yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (3 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (4 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next sc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (5 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (6 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (7 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (8 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all 8 loops on hook.

Complete your basic dc crown

Pattern rows:

             

Row1: Join in alternating yarn to top of ch 3 space with a sl st, ch 3, work 2 more dc’s in same space as ch3, skip 2 dc’s, sc in next dc, skip 2 dc’s,* work 7 dc in the next dc, skip 2 dc’s, work 1 sc in next dc, skip 2 dc’s,* repeat from *to* to end, work 4 more dc’s in same space as beginning ch3, sl st into top of ch 3 to join round, break off and secure yarn

Row 2: Join in alternating yarn to any 4^th dc of the 7 dc group, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 sc in same space, ch 3, work 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 st’s, ch 3, *work 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, work 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 st’s, ch 3,*  repeat from *to* to end, sl st in to beginning sc to join, break off and secure yarn

Row 3: Join in alternating yarn to same space as the sl st, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 sc in same space, work 7 dc into the joining space of the 7 dc’s on previous row, *work 1 sc into the next sc, work 7 dc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st in to beginning sc to join, break off and secure yarn

Rows 2 to 3 form hat pattern: *repeat row 2 then repeat row 3* alternatively for height desired, then follow hat edge instruction 

Hat edge: Scallop                                      Straight

  
 HDC Hat Edge Below:

Hat edge:

Option 1:

Continue working pattern until hat height reaches approx 11 inches, finishing on a row of you choice, row 3 will give you a straight edge, row 2 will give you a scalloped hat edge

Option 2:

Continue working in pattern until hat height reaches approx 9 inches, finishing pattern on a row 2.

Row 1: with yarn of your choice, join in yarn to same space as the sl st, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 hdc in same space as join, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, work 1 hdc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, *work 1 hdc in the next sc, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, work 1 hdc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space,* repeat from *to* to end sl st in to beginning hdc to join,

Row 2: ch 1, work 1 hdc in each hdc around, sl st in to beginning hdc to join

Row 3: repeat row 2 for hat height desired or for hat height of approx 11 inches

Finish off hat sew in all loose ends

 Clare Sullivan, video tutorial, thank you Clare.

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

I hope that you have found these instructions useful.
Please like me on face book or and comment on my face book page for more user information.
I am always more than happy to help.

Crochet, Little Miss Pink Puff, Preemie Sweater

Little MissPinkPuff is designed for a preemie size baby approx 2 lb (1 to 3 lb)

The puff st makes the little sweater just a bit fancy.

If you are running short of your main yarn, the puff stitch can be also made over 2 dc in stead of the 3 dc puff st included in the pattern instructions.

You can barely tell the difference but there is a weight difference of 8 grams using the 2 dc puff stitch.

2 dc puff stitch=

yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop,(5 stitches on hook), you over draw through 4 loops, yo draw through 2 loops

 The one on the right has the 3 dc puff st

Size, preemie approx 2lb (1 to 3 lb)

Hook 4.00 mm US: G/6

Yarn: 8 ply US: 4ply

Tension: medium

Materials: small amount of contrast and main approx 40 gm’s,

3 small buttons

Stitches used:

Ch=chain

Sc=single crochet

Dc=double crochet

Back loop

Front loop

Dec=decrease

Inc=increase

Special Stitch Used: Puff st= yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, (7 loops on hook) yo hook and draw through 6 loops on hook ( 2 loops on hook), yo hook and draw through 2 loops

Special Instructions: #1 Sweater begins at collar.#2 Arms, back and front top yolk are worked onto collar #3 sides and back are worked in one piece as armhole st’s are skipped. #4 Bottom, side and collar edgings are worked in next. #5 Arms are joined in by picking up st’s from skipped st’s under yolk.

Beginning ch 3 is counted as the first st of every row

Begin with contrasting color: Ch 37

Row 1: work 1 sc in 2^nd chain from hook, work 1 sc in each chain across, change to main color, (36 sc) then ch 3 and turn (ch 3 is first st of next row)

Row 2: work 1 dc in each sc across (36 dc), ch 3 and turn

Decrease row (shape collar)

Row 3: work 1 dc in next dc, dc next 3 dc’s together (dec made), work 1 dc in each of the next 26 dc, , dc next 3 dc’s together, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st’s, ( 32 dc) ch 3 and turn

 

Increase row (shape shoulders)

Working row 4 in back loops only

Row 4: work 1 dc in next 7 dc, work 4 dc’s in each of the next 2 st’s (inc made),work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc’s, work 2 dc’s into each of the next 4 dc’s (inc made), work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc’s, work 4 dc’s in each of the next 2 st’s (inc made) work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (48 dc) ch 3 and turn

Increase row

Row 5: work 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 16 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn

Row 6: work 1 dc in each dc to end, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn

Working row 7 in back loops only

Shape arm holes

Row 7: work 1 dc in next dc, work 1 puff st in next 6 dc’s, skip the next 12 dc, work 1 puff st in each of the next 16 dc, skip the next 12 dc, work 1 puff st in next 6 dc’s, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st’s, ch 3 and turn (2 dc, 28 puff st, 2dc=32 st’s)

Row 8: work 1 dc in next dc, work 1 puff st into each of next 28 puff st’s, work 1 dc in next 2 st’s, ch 3 and turn (2 dc, 28 puff st, 2dc=32 st’s)

Row 9, 10, 11 and repeat row 8, change to contrasting color and chain1 sc to turn on last row (row 11)

Special Instructions: Before Beginning The Edge Trim: This is just a guide, go to row 12 to begin the edge trim

Working sc in contrast color #1, sc along the bottom edge, #2,  sc up lefthand side, #3, sl st across collar, #4, sc along right hand side and making a ch 2 for 3 button loops and sc to end

Row: 12 work 1 sc in each dc  and puff st, to last dc, work 2 sc in this dc, (left edge) working 2 sc in the side of a dc and 1 sc in the side of a ch 3 (approx 16 sc) to the sc space of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, sl st loosely across the beginning chains of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, work down the right hand side the same way as you did the left hand side, stopping at the 2nd back loop row to make first button loop, work 1 sc, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 2 spaces, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 2 spaces, ch 2,  (3 button loops) work 1 sc in same sequence as before to end of the side, work 1 sc in the same space as the first sc made, sl st to next st,  finish off yarn

Adding the sleeves

Right sleeve

Row 1:  (turn garment up side down, with the front facing you) join in yarn to the same back loop of the last puff st worked on back panel, ch 2, in same place work a puff st, work 1 puff st in the back loops of the next 12 dc of the sleeve top, work 1 puff st in the same place as the next puff st, work 1 puff st in the centre space of the front and back panel, sl st into the top of the first puff st to join round (15 puff st’s) it will not matter if you are a stitch out

Row 2: ch 2,work 1 puff st in same st, work 1 puff st in each puff st to end of row, sl st into the top of the first puff st to join round  (15 puff st’s)

Row 3 and Row 4: repeat row 2, change to contrast color

Row 5: ch 1, work 1 sc in each puff st around, sl st to first sc to join round

Row 6: ch 1, work 1 sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc to join round, finish off yarn.

Left sleeve

Turn garment up side down, with the front facing you, join in yarn to the same back loop of the last puff st worked on the left hand panel, repeat as for right sleeve

Sew in all loose ends

Buttons

Sew buttons onto the left hand side, making sure they are evenly placed, opposite the ch 2 button loops

 You can find Little Boy Blue Here

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.