Cats Pop Over Tunic Crochet Top

"Cats Pop Over Tunic"

Sometimes a long sleeve shirt is just not warm enough to wear around the house or for a quick trip to the shops.

So I decided to make a simple throw over tunic style top. I had purchased some caron cakes in various tones and chose to use the bumbleberry style to make my top. I'm so glad I chose this yarn as it has a nice drape to it.

The level of difficulty in making this tunic can be overcome by either learning a new technique or using an alternative stitch, the pattern begins with a foundation row of double crochets, the alternative to this is to chain the amount of chains needed, then make a double crochet into each of those chains, the foundation row of dc's gives the Tunic a firmer starting edge, thus eliminating the need for a row of ribbing. The pattern also uses a standing double crochet at the beginning of the row. the alternative to this is a chain of 3. (see stitches used).

Size: AU 16, 18 and 20 adult instructions given, tunic can be made larger or smaller by adding or subtracting stitches at both edges of the tunic.

  

Materials needed: 

Caron cakes 200 gm balls x 3

Alternate yarn weight. US Worsted AU 10 ply

Crochet hook 5 mm (US H-8)

Stitches Used: US terminology

ch = chain

dc foundation = double crochet foundation row

(dc foundation row can be omitted with a row of chains then dc's made into that chain)

dc = double crochet

st dc = standing double crochet

(st dc can be omitted with a ch 3)
fpdc = front post double crochet
bpdc = back post double crochet

Special Stitches Instruction:

dbl clust = cluster, ch 2, cluster

A cluster is a group of half worked double crochets (usually 3) then all 3 are finished off together   

Cluster explanation: yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, (3 loops on hook) yarn over and draw through 2 loops, ( 2 loops on hook) yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, (4 loops on hook) yarn over and draw through 2 loops,  (3 loops on hook) yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, (5 loops on hook) yarn over and draw through 2 loops, (4 loops on hook) yarn over hook and draw through all 4 loops on hook = cluster made

The double clusters are purposely placed within the design for size alteration and a center split for the neck opening, at this point the double cluster is split into 2, which becomes a single cluster that travels along each side of the neck opening, it's subtle but nice.

When making clothing items, it is best to grab a piece of clothing, lay it on a flat surface, then put the garment you are making over it and check for correct sizing, most times near enough is going to be good enough as our garment will be loose, which in turn will allow us to wear extra clothing underneath. 

***If your not using the dc foundation row, ch 72, work your first dc into the 4th ch from your hook and make 1 dc into each of the chains (1 x ch 3 and 69 dc for a total count of 70 st's)
For those of you who are not going to use a standing dc at the beginning of the row, make a ch 3, then follow pattern***

Lets Begin:Make 2 pieces, 1 for the front and 1 for the back of the garment.
Make a dc foundation row of 70 dc

Row 1. st dc into first dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 21 dc's, skip 1 dc, work a double cluster into next dc, skip 1 dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, skip 1 dc, work 1 double cluster into the next dc, skip 1 dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, skip 1 dc, work 1 double cluster into the next dc, skip 1 dc, work 1 dc into each of the remaining 23 dc's, turn

**To simplify things, on every row, we work 1 dc into a dc and a double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster all the way up to the neck opening**

Row 2. st dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 22 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster (be careful not to work any st's into the actual cluster), work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster, work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster, work 1 dc into each of the remaining 22 dc's, turn

Row 3. st dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 21 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster (be careful not to work any st's into the actual cluster), work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster, work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster, work 1 dc into each of the remaining 23 dc's, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 40 rows (includes foundation row), this is a generous length, I would have preferred mine a couple of rows shorter.

Divide for the neck opening:
Row 1. Continue pattern up to the center double cluster, work a cluster into the top of the cluster st, turn
Row 2. Ch 3, work a 2 dc cluster in the cluster st, continue pattern to end of row, turn

Repeat the previous 2 rows 5 times (12 rows in total), break off yarn and continue to the other side of the neck opening.

Row 1. make a sl st into the top of the cluster st, chain 3 and make a 2 dc cluster in the cluster st, continue with pattern to end of row, turn

Row 2. continue pattern to center cluster and make a cluster in the top of the cluster st, turn

Continue pattern sequence for a total of 12 rows, both sides of neck opening are now completed.
Join each shoulder seam together, they can be sewed or crocheted together, your choice.

The tunic sides can be joined together now or you can add a decorative edge then sew or crochet that together.
Mark sides approx 3 to 5 rows down from the neck opening and sew or crochet sides together.

Making the side edge: working from the bottom edge and the sides of each row, make a sl st into the first rows edge and ch 3, make a dc into the same row, work 2 dc's in the side st of every row.
Second row of sides edge:
Chain 3 and turn, work a *fpdc around next dc, work a bpdc around next dc* repeat from *to* until 1 stitch is remaining and make a dc in that one.

You can now sl st your sides together or sew them together. Remember to end your side joining approx 3 (medium  size arms) to 5 (larger size arms) rows below the neck opening. 
You could also add buttons for closing the sides instead of sewing or crocheting them together. 

Now to tidy up the neck opening and make the neck edging:

Join yarn to a shoulder seam with a sl st and ch 3, as per the sides, work 2 dc around the stitch edge of each row until you come to one row before center of neck opening, work a 3 dc cluster stitch that begins in the row before the center, the second part of the cluster is worked into the ch 2 space of the double cluster and work the final st of the cluster in the row above the chain 2 space then finish off the cluster stitch (you just made a V in the center of the neck opening), continue working 2 dc around the stitch edge of each row until you come to the joining seam and work 1 dc into the seam, repeat for the other side of your tunic "including the V in the center of the neck opening. Sew in ends and now you can pop it on!

Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cathy Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

2017.

You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern

I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use

Please link back to this pattern if you use it

 

IF YOU LIKE THIS, YOU'LL LOVE THIS

Free Crochet Hat Pattern

 

 

Ocean Breeze

OCEAN BREEZE

a versatile free crochet hat pattern
messy bun/pony tail options included in pattern 

Introduction: The crochet stitch pattern consists of the Herringbone stitch and the front post double crochet stitch. The front post double crochet stitch separates each Herringbone around the hat which in return gives a lovely textured pattern with little fuss. You also have the option to leave an opening for a messy bun or pony tail. 

The hat begins being made at the the brim and finishes at the crown.
Once the first few rows are completed, the hat pattern repeats it's self through out, making it an easy pattern to make once you get going.

Herringbone meaning:  a pattern consisting of columns of short parallel lines, with all the lines in one column sloping one way and all the lines in the next column sloping the other way so as to resemble the bones in a fish, for example as used in the weave of cloth. See bottom of post for a you tube video of the herringbone stitch.

Size, small to med. The pattern is a 6 stitch repeat, to make a large hat, add a count of 6 ch for a total of 54 chain and adjust round count as needed.
Materials needed:

5 mm hook (US H-8)

10 ply (US Aran weight) yarn

Approx 50 gm's of each color

Experience: Beginner +
Time: Approx 2 hours +

Stitches used: US terminology

Ch = chain

Sl st = slip stitch
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Dc = double crochet
Fpdc = front post double crochet

Dec = decrease

Shell =  (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc = shell made)

Half Shell = (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc = half shell)

Fpdc dec = work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made)

With main color
Make a chain of 48, sl st to form a ring

Notes: the beginning ch 2 of each round is not counted as a st.
Round 1. Ch 2, work 1 dc in same space as sl st, work 1 dc in each ch st, sl st to top of beginning dc to join round (48 dc)

Notes: Try on your work, if it is too small repeat the above steps with a larger hook. This 1st round may also be a little loose, this is fine as we correct the tension later on in the pattern in the final steps.

Begin Pattern:

Round 2. Ch 2, work 1 dc in 1st dc, skip 2 dc's, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc = shell made) in next dc, skip 2 dc's, *work 1 dc in next dc, skip 2 dc's, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc = shell made ) in next dc, skip 2 dc's* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning dc to join round

Join in contrasting color and work with contrasting on every odd row/every alternate row.

Round 3. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st dc, work 1 dc in same st that the shell st of the row below was made in, work (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc = half shell) in the ch 2 space of the shell, work 1 dc in same st that the shell st of the row below was made in, *work 1 fpdc around the 1 dc, work 1 dc in same st that the shell st of the row below was made in, work (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc = half shell) in the ch 2 space of the shell, work 1 dc in same st that the shell st of the row below was made in, * repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round

In the picture below, looking at the blue yarn only, there is 1 fpdc, followed by a completed herringbone, 1 fpdc and the beginning of the next herringbone

With main color.
Round 4. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st fpdc, work 1 dc in same st that the half shell st of the row below was made in, work (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc = half shell) in the ch 2 space of the half shell,  work 1 dc in same st that the half shell st of the row below was made in, *work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 dc in same st that the half shell st of the row below was made in, work (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc = half shell) in the ch 2 space of the half shell,  work 1 dc in same st that the half shell st of the row below was made in, * repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round

Repeat round 4 until work measures approx 6 inches (about 14 rounds in total) 

Working on crown with main color:
Round 1. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st fpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc st's of the half shell, work 1 dc in the ch 2 space, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc st's of the half shell, *work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc st's of the half shell, work 1 dc in the ch 2 space, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc st's of the half shell*, repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round (48 st's)
Round 2. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st fpdc, work 1 fpdc around each st of the round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round (48 fpdc's)

Begin decreases: Dec 5th and 6th st's tog
Round 3. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st fpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 3 fpdc's, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made), *work 1 fpdc around each of the next 4 fpdc's, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made),* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round (40 st's)

Dec 4th and 5th st's tog
Round 4. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st fpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 fpdc's, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made), *work 1 fpdc around each of the next 3 fpdc's, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made),* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round (32 st's)
Dec 3rd and 4th st's tog
Round 5. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st fpdc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made), *work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 fpdc's, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made),* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round (24 st's)
Note: if you want a messy bun hat/pony tail hat, finish off yarn and sew in ends. Option 2. work 1 sc in each st around and sl st to join (thus giving a firmer ring)

 
Dec 2nd and 3rd st's tog
Round 6. Ch 2, work 1 fpdc around 1st fpdc, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made), *work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc, work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made),* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round (16 st's)

Dec 1st and 2nd st's tog
Round 7. Ch 2, *work 1 fpdc around the next 2 st's together (dec made),* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to top of beginning fpdc to join round (8 st's), break off yarn leaving a long tail to sew remaining 8 st's closed.

Hat edge: please read both options, this will tighten your hat edge slightly and make it neater.
Version 1. Join main color with a sl st into any stitch, make a sc st into each st of the hat edge, sl st to 1st stitch to join round (48 sc)
Round 2. ch 1, work 1 sc into the back loop only of each sc of the round, sl st to 1st stitch to join round (48 sc). finish off and sew in ends.

Version 2. will give the hat more length. Repeat the above instructions with the hdc stitch instead of the sc stitch.
 

Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cathy Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

2017.

You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern

I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use

Please link back to this pattern if you use it

Link to the Herringbone stitch on you tube.

Strawberry Fields Chocolate Cup Cake

STRAWBERRY FIELDS CHOCOLATE CUP CAKE

Take some real enjoyment from this sweet little treat!
No calories, lot's of fiber and a visually delightful cup cake.

The cup cake is made from the bottom and upwards. It begins with making a circle as the base, 1 round of working into the back loops to raise the cake, several rounds to make the cake taller, 3 rounds to make the strawberry surrounds, 1 round for the dollop of cream, then a few more rounds to close the top of the cake.

Chocolate brown yarn is used for the cup cake, red and green for the strawberry rounds and white is used for the dollop of cream and the lid of the cake. 

Ingredients required:

Please note that using thinner or thicker yarn and hook size will change the size of your cupcake. Make it big or go small. These materials will give you a medium size.

Yarn, 8 ply (dk) choc brown 5 oz, small amounts of green, red and white 5 oz
Crochet hook, 4 mm
Stuffing of your choice (see below for stuffing tips)
Stitch marker
Scissors and sewing needle

Stitches used:
Sl st = slip stitch
Ch = chain
Dec = decrease
Blo = back loop only
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Dc = double crochet
Oz = ounce
Special stitches used:
Cluster st = unfinished hdc = yarn over hook, insert hook into st and pull out a loop. This technique will be used 1 time in each of the next 5 st's to close the strawberry and make it pop out.
Full instructions, yarn over hook, insert hook into 1st dc and pull out a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over hook, insert hook into 2nd dc and pull out a loop (5 loops on hook), yarn over hook, insert hook into 3rd dc and pull out a loop (7 loops on hook), yarn over hook, insert hook into 4th dc and pull out a loop (9 loops on hook), yarn over hook, insert hook into 5th dc and pull out a loop (11 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all loops on hook, ch 1 to close
Time to make: for your first one, about 2 hours, the more you make the quicker they become.
Please read notes and special instructions before making pattern

First step, you can use a magic ring or ch 4 and sl st to join to make your ring (your choice)
These rounds are not joined
Round 1. work 6 sc's into ring (place marker after each round)
Round 2. work 2 sc's into each sc (12 sc)
Round 3. Work 1 sc into 1st sc, work 2 sc into next sc, *work 1 sc into next sc, work 2 sc into next sc* repeat from *to* to end (18 sc)
Round 4. Work 1 sc into each of the next 2 sc's, work 2 sc into next sc, *work 1 sc into each of the next 2 sc's, work 2 sc into next sc* repeat from *to* to end (24 sc)
Round 5. Work 1 sc into each of the next 3 sc's, work 2 sc into next sc, *work 1 sc into each of the next 3 sc's, work 2 sc into next sc* repeat from *to* to end (30 sc)
Round 6. Work 1 sc into each of the next 4 sc's, work 2 sc into next sc, *work 1 sc into each of the next 4 sc's, work 2 sc into next sc* repeat from *to* to end (36 sc)

Base complete, now lets make the cake rise, this round has no increases, but each stitch is worked into the back loop of of every sc of the round
Round 1. work 1 sc in each stitch to end (back loops only)
Round 2. (working in both loops) work 1 sc into each sc to end
Repeat row 2 until cake measures approx 1 and a half inches high, this will be about 8 to 10 rounds, break off choc brown yarn and begin next row with green.

Begin strawberry rounds.  

Working with  green make a sl st into the same space as you ended the brown
Round 1. with green, ch 1, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join round (36 sc)

NOTE for round 2: always carry the yarn that is not in use.
Round 2. ch 1, *work 1 sc into each of the next 2 sc's, using red, work 5 dc into the next sc*,  repeat from *to* to end, to join, sl st into first sc of the round with the GREEN, finish off red leaving a tail of the red to sew in and secure, (12 groups of 5 dc, 12 groups of 2 sc)

Round 3. ch 1, *work 1 sc into each of the next 2 sc's, work the cluster st (as per instructions) over the next 5 dc* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join, end green (24 sc, 12 ch 1 spaces)

Working with white make a sl st into the same space as you ended the green

Round 1. ch 1, *work 1 sc into each of the next 2 sc's, work 1 sc into the ch 1 space* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (36 sc)

Dollop of cream round

Round 2. ch 1, *work 1 sc into each of the next 2 sc's, work 5 dc's into the next sc, turn your work, work 1 sc into the 5th dc from your hook, turn your work* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (36 sc)

Closing the lid, decrease rounds
Round 3. ch 1 *work 1 sc into each of the next 4 sc's, work the next 2 sc together (dec made)* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (30 sc)
Round 4. ch 1 *work 1 sc into each of the next 3 sc's, work the next 2 sc together (dec made)* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (24 sc)
Round 5. ch 1 *work 1 sc into each of the next 2 sc's, work the next 2 sc together (dec made)* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (18 sc)
Now would be a good time to start stuffing your cup cake, once stuffed and shaped, continue onto next round
Round 6. ch 1 *work 1 sc into the next sc, work the next 2 sc together (dec made)* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (12 sc)
Round 7. ch 1 *work 2 sc together* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (6 sc), break off yarn leaving a tail to weave the remaining st's closed, sew in and hide ending tail.

Congratulations, you have now finished your cup cake.
To make your cupcake look extra delicious you can add a strawberry to the top, a heart applique, an extra dollop of cream or create something you really fancy.
For the heart applique, I used my super quick, 2 round free crochet heart pattern that you can find here. 
For the strawberry, I watched this video tutorial, or you can do a search for a written, free crochet strawberry pattern.
I also watched this video tutorial on how to make the strawberry stitch pattern that gave me the idea to place the strawberry field on a cup cake. I did change it a bit to suit the cupcake, but it will give you a good idea of how I made the strawberry.
My Big Tip
I was super excited about my re-purposed stuffing! I had washed and dried some old pillows, cut the corner out of the pillow cover and just reached in and pulled out perfect stuffing! I have some old cushions I plan to do this to as well. A big bag of shop bought stuffing is not cheap, so I saved $'s by doing it this way.

Anyhow, I hope you have enjoyed this fun and cute cupcake pattern, I've been making these and more sweets for the Mothers Day stall at my granddaughters school and I'm so happy to get a little time in for crocheting once again!

Crochet Quick and Easy Heart Patterns

Two super quick free crochet heart shapes pattern.

These heart shapes are so fast and easy to make, you could make a hundred per day! 

First version is made with only one round crocheted into a magic loop, the second version uses the magic loop for the first
round, then the shaping of the heart is made on the
second round. Yarn ply will determine the size of your heart, go small with thin yarn or large with thick yarn.

Materials:
Scissors
Hook, to suit yarn
Yarn, scraps
Sewing needle

Use a hook size suitable to your yarn ply

Stitches used: US terms used
Magic loop
Chain
Hdc = half double crochet
Dc = double crochet

Speedy Heart Shape
All st's worked into the magic loop
Make a magic loop, chain 3, 2 dc, 4 hdc, 1 dc, 4 hdc, 2
dc, ch 3, tighten up loop (not extremely tight) sl st into
magic loop, leaving a long strand cut yarn and pull it
through the sl st. Shape heart with fingers, Take your
long strand and poke it through the magic ring and
bring it back up to where you pulled it through the sl st.
Sew onto your project.

Super Quick Heart Shape
Round 1. Make a magic loop, chain 1, work 9 hdc into
magic loop, tighten loop, sl st into first hdc to join.
Round 2. Ch 3, work 2 dc into same space as sl st, work
1 hdc into each of the next 3 hdc, work (1 hdc, 1 dc, 1
hdc) into next hdc, work 1 hdc into each of the next 3
hdc, work 2 dc into the next hdc, ch 3 and sl st into
same space as the 2 dc, leaving a long strand cut yarn
and pull it through the sl st. Shape heart with fingers,
Take your long strand and poke it through the magic
ring and bring it back up to where you pulled it
through the sl st, (twice and pull firm).
Sew onto your project.

Tip, sew in and secure beginning tail

What A Beautiful Crocheted Shawl!

Here is the image I found

on pinterest.

 The link sent me to a video on YouTube, which is here.

I believe the video to be in Russian, but you can turn on subtitles as pictured here, the circled cog.

But quite honestly the translation does not make much sense.
The next best thing we can do is to slow down the video and crochet along with it.
Once again go to the settings cog
select speed as in the picture below

Then select the speed to watch in

select 0.5 or 0.25 to slow the video down, you can play around with these 2 speeds to obtain your comfort, crochet along with speed.
Alternatively you can also speed up the video.

You can watch the video here to make the alterations.

You may have some favorite crochet video tutorials that are too fast, now you can apply the same method to them.

Happy crocheting!

Great for Gifts! Crochet A Chevron Kitchen Towel

Just came across this great free crochet pattern!
What a great idea for a Christmas gift or any occasion gift.
Or would you keep it to your self?
Here is a picture and the link to the free crochet pattern, enjoy! 

Image and pattern are from Crochet Dreamz,
thanks for sharing such a lovely pattern!

Child's Friendship Knot Sweater, Free Crochet Pattern

Child's Friendship Knot Sweater

This is a free crochet pattern, so very cute!

You will find it on Redheart, link here.

It also links to a pdf file that  you can download. 

So very cute

 

To The Wonderful People Who Visit My Page

My writing of and posting of free patterns has slowed.

due to personal reasons I have been raising two young grandchildren, for the last two years.

I am also creating a new craft room and had to pack up my materials in order to paint then re-furnish my crafting room.

I can barely find a hook or needles to use, the process has been much slower than I had expected.

 I am using pre pack furniture and the simple task of putting that together has not been an easy one.

Every time we start to do it, there is a need to stop for the grandchildren or an illness or injury.

 The mixed match of furniture I had in my craft room before was uneven and ugly, every time I put my hook down it would roll down and onto the floor. Having sharps and valuables in the room was also a danger to the little ones. So it was time for a rebuild and proper storage.

 So now the little ones are up and they need my attention, I have some creative idea's stored in my head and I hope to be back real soon and supply a new and free pattern for my page visitors.

Thank you for your support and I will see you soon.

Gigi Hadid And Her Fabulous Crocheted Jacket

Gigi Hadid has made a fashion statement by stepping out in a crocheted jacket.

Photo source

Photo Source

Her pictures have gone viral in the world of crochet!

Nadia Fuad and YARNutopia now have the free crochet pattern and video tutorial available.

 Thank you for making this available!