Crochet Piano Key Wrap

Just wrapped this wrap up in time for Mothers Day!

My Mum plays the piano at church every suday and I thought this would be perfect to keep her shoulders warm whilst playing her tunes.

Although my initial idea was for a scarf, the scarf was too wide, so I made it a shoulder wrap instead. I had intensions to make a few of these to raise funds, but it is too time consuming, I need to make smaller items that take less time, which I have and am still making.

My main computer has crashed and it has the graph pattern details with in it's brain.

So I'll have to wait to share this pattern with you.

Below is the beginning of the wrap, it is all made in sc and an 8 ply yarn. I used a graph I altered for the piano keys. To get the same graph on the other side of the wrap, I simply turned the graph up side down and followed it that way.

I made a full length piano scarf way back in 2007 which you can view via this link.

My #5 daughter is my model in these pictures.
Side view.
Side view.

And just a rear view snap. You can see that the wrap folds down into a collar just so neatly.

Beret with a simple cable stitch. Free Pattern.

This yarn I have used is quite old, I can't even remember where it came from. I wanted a simple stitch pattern for the beige colour, it took me a few days to come up with something. I did not want anything with holes or too fancy. A couple of easy cable rows has set this colour off. It is a little on the itchy side being 100% wool and the type of wool it is, but I will give it a rinse in fabric softener and hopefully that will smooth things out a bit.

The yarn I chose to use.

The simple cable is just noticeable.

And it is still noticeable from a distance too.

Beret with a simple cable stitch.

Size:
Woman’s small, medium and large

Experience level:
Intermediate

Time to make:
One evening

Materials:
Size 5mm hook, H/8
100 gm’s of 12 ply yarn

Tension:
I am a medium tension crocheter, if you crochet tightly use a larger hook,
if you crochet loosely use a smaller hook

Stitches used: US terms.
Sc, Hdc and Dc

Special stitches:
Cable stitch, worked over 4 dc= skip next 3 st’s, dc into following 4th dc, dc into 3rd skipped dc, dc into 1st skipped dc, dc into 2nd skipped dc. Please note: at the beginning of the cable round you will not ch 3, you will dc into the 4th dc along as per the cable st instructions.

Hdc decrease of next 2 st’s= yo hook, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, insert hook into next st and pull up a loop, work all 4 loops off hook.

Beginning at crown:
Ch 4
Work 11 dc into 4th chain from hook, sl st into the top of the 4th chain to join (12 dc), my count will always include the first ch 3 as a dc.

Increasing beret:
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 2 dc into each dc around, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (24 dc),

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, * repeat from * to * to end , sl st into top of ch 3 to join (36 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 2 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (48 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 3 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (60 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 4 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (72 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 5 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 5 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (84 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 6 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 6 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (96 dc)

Cable Stitch row:
*Cable st over the next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of first dc to join, (the first dc is the dc into 1st skipped dc of the cable stitch) (96 dc)

Dc row:
Ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc and in each dc around, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, (96 dc)

Cable Stitch row:
*Cable st over the next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join, (the first dc is the dc into 1st skipped dc of the cable stitch, see special stitches) (96 dc)

Decrease rows: note, ch 2 is the first hdc st
Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 5 dc, hdc decrease over next 2 dc, *work 1 hdc into next 6 dc, hdc decrease over next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2

Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 4 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc, *work 1 hdc into next 5 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2

Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 3 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc, *work 1 hdc into next 4 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2 (60 hdc)

Single crochet rounds, no decreases: Please note the beginning ch 1 is not counted as the first sc

Ch 1, work 1 sc into sl st space, work 1 sc into each hdc to end, sl st to join into first sc space (60 sc)
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for large beret
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for medium beret
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for small beret

Try on the beret whilst making the sc rounds for your tailor made fit.

This model head is a small size with a medium size beret on it.

The beret can also be worn sloping from front to rear.

This is the yarn I began with and I still have some more yarn to use to make another one.

Beret with a simple cross stitch. Free Pattern.

When I write a pattern I usually hand write it whilst I am making the garment, then I make another garment whilst I type the pattern, this usually corrects any mistakes that I may have made. How ever I did not follow this process this time. So I would very much appreciate your feed back if you make this beret using this pattern.

Below is the yarn I used, it took 1.5 balls (approx) to complete the beret, the yarn does not refer to it's ply.

Below is the completed beret in a medium size.

Size:
Woman’s small, medium and large

Experience level:
Beginner to intermediate

Time to make:
One evening

Materials:
Size 5mm hook
100 gm’s of 10 to 12 ply yarn

Tension:
I am a medium tension crocheter, if you crochet tightly use a larger hook,
if you crochet loosely use a smaller hook

Stitches used in US terms:
Sc, Hdc and Dc

Special stitches:
Dc cross stitch= skip next st, dc into following st, dc into skipped st

Beginning at crown:
Ch 4
Work 11 dc into 4th chain from hook, sl st into the top of the 4th chain to join (12 dc)
Increasing beret:
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 2 dc into each dc around, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (24 dc), my count will always include the first ch 3 as a dc.

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, * repeat from * to * to end , sl st into top of ch 3 to join (36 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 2 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (48 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 3 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (60 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 4 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (72 dc)

Next row has no increases:
Ch 3, *work 1dc into next dc,* repeat from *to* to end sl st into top of ch 3 to join (72 dc)
Increase row:
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 5 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 5 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (84 dc)

Begin cross st pattern, with no further increases:
Sl st to next dc, ch 3, work 1 dc in first sl st to join space,* sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into first dc to join (84 dc)

Decrease and cross st pattern round:
Sl st to top of ch 3 space (second st), ch 3, work 1 dc into 1st dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc, (decrease) work 1 dc into space between the next 2 dc, *skip next 2 dc, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 1 dc into the 2nd skipped dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 1 dc into the skipped dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 1 dc into the skipped dc, (decrease) work 1 dc into space between the next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * ending with skip 1 dc, sl st into first dc to join ( 72 dc)

Decrease the single dc by skipping over it and cross st pattern round:
Sl st to top of ch 3 space (second st), ch 3, work 1 dc into 1st dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc, (decrease) skip single dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into 2nd skipped dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc, *(decrease) skip single dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into 2nd skipped dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc,* repeat from * to * ending with, (decrease) skip single dc, sl st into first dc to join ( 60 dc)

Cross st pattern round with no decreasing:
Sl st to top of ch 3 space (second st), ch 3, work 1 dc into 1st dc,* sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into first dc to join (60 dc)
Repeat above round one more time:

Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next dc and into each dc around, sl st into top of ch 2 to join (60 hdc includes ch 2)

Note: ch 1 is not counted as a stitch from here on:
Ch 1, work 1 sc into top of ch 2, work 1 sc into each hdc around, sl st into ch 1 to join (60 sc)
Sizes:
Ch 1, work 1 sc into each sc around, sl st into ch 1 to join (60 sc) This is the above row, referred to for the 3 sizes below.

For the large size, repeat the above row one more time: finish off
For the medium size, repeat the above row 3 more times: finish off
For the small size repeat the above row 5 more times: finish off

Remember to sew in all loose ends.

Try the beret on whilst making the sc rounds for your tailor made fit.

I would appreciate all feed back (good or bad) on this pattern.
I hope you enjoy your Beret.
I will have more free patterns to come in the very near future so stay tuned.

Just to add, here is a link to the completed beret by another blogger.

Yarn from the states

No I am not telling a long story here, just thought I would share with you some pictures of some lovely yarn I have been sent from the US. It's all for charity, fire victims and fund raising for the fire brigade. Thank you for your generosity!

Below is some yarn from Octobermoon.

Below is some yarn from Rachel G.
Below is a left handed, crocheting cat that Rachel G made for me!

If you look closely at the yarn choice here in this beret, you will notice it is from the first lot of yarn I received from Octobermoon.

The pattern for this beret will soon be uploaded to my blog for free for all to use.