Crochet, Linked Double Crochet

Have you heard of a linked crochet stitch?

Well I had never heard of it or even thought about changing the way to a dc stitch, I like to play around with stitch patterns, but not usually the actual stitch.

So this is what it looks like.

  Now this is me trying to pull apart the dc st, see no gaps?

You can't even poke your fingers through the st's.

I watched a video called linked treble crochet and used it with the dc.

You just have to remember not to yarn over before going into the st space and know what spaces to go into. You do have more than 1 choice of which space to go into, depending on your choice.

I used what I call the bar to go into, if you are familiar with Tunisian crochet, this will be very simple.

You will always be working into the st you just made, that is how it is connected.

Below shows where I will insert my hook to pull up a loop to start the next dc, remember! do not yarn over to begin with.

So I will place my hook into the strand where the pink st holder is.

Below I have pulled up a loop from the strand where the pink st holder is. 2 loops on hook.

 Next I will pull up a loop from the top of the next dc.

3 loops on hook, finish off like a regular dc, yo, pull through 2 and pull through 2 again, 1 loop left on hook.

If you study this picture closely you can see the connection.

What about beginning the next row?

Chain 2 and turn

Pull up a loop through the second ch from the hook, (remember no yarn over).

 Now pull up a loop through the very first dc, 3 loops on hook.

Yo, pull through 2, then pull through 2, just like a regular dc.

So it looks like this and I am loving the nice straight edge.

Now just repeat the first steps of this post to continue the process.

If your project needs 72 dc to begin with, make a chain of 72 plus 2 chain, begin you first connected dc into the 2nd ch from the hook, pull up a loop, then pull up a loop from the next ch, 3 loops on hook and work them off the same as a dc.

Use what I called the bar of the previously made dc to go into and pull up your first loop, then go into the next ch and pull up your next loop, 3 loops on hook, yo, pull through 2, then pull through 2 again.

Continue across the ch to the end, ch 2 and turn.

Why use this method?

Well it has lovely texture and no gaps, here is a head band I made using this method, the connected dc.

Side view.

 Rear view.

No air holes :)

I hope you liked this post and thank you for reading.

Thank you to  Kim Guzman

for her teaching video's too she has some great techniques for lot's of st's. 

How To Add A Stem To A Crochet Flower

How To Add A Stem To A Crochet Flower

Free Flower & Leaf Pattern Here

I did search for help on this topic and was not able to find much help at all, so I tried quite a few ways and this is what I came up with.

Using coat hanger wire cut to about 10 to 12 inches in length I made a coil on one end, this part attaches to the flower.

I started with an 8 figure coil then changed it to a simple circular coil as the flower is not heavy and this way was less work.

The tools I used were heavy duty wire cutters, round nose pliers (or anything to get the circular shape that you can wrap the wire around) and a mini bench vice to help me straighten any bent wires.

 

Once I had the wire ready and clean, I made a slip knot onto the wire and began a knitting cast on to the wire it's self as crocheting over the wire was a real pain!

I began at the straight end and pushed the st's up the wire as it grew.

I was able to cover the coil and the entire wire.

I attached the flower head with the beginning yarn tail and then secured the end.

I sewed up and down the end of the wire for a few inches to secure the end, then sprayed glue onto it, any clear glue or clear nail polish will work to make the end adhere to the wire.

I've made a video tutorial on how I did this process.

I hope this may help some one with the same problem I had, how to make and attach the stem to a flower.

 Another useful tip you may be able to use.
After I made each flower, I placed it into a sealed bag, in that bag I had a piece of paper toweling that was dipped in some rose oil.
I kept adding my new flowers to the same bag and they all came out smelling like real roses.
You can do the same with a scented soap bar, scented candle etc.

Crochet Hook Holder

Crochet Hook Holder
see bottom of page for update to this post

for my new crochet hooks

Addi SWING Ergonomic Crochet Hook

The addi swing crochet hook is exactly what it says it is.

Ergonomically friendly.

I posted a little while back about my golfers elbow pain being eased by crocheting, so I thought I would go one step further and buy a better hook, I did purchase a top brand name and was not happy with that, so I went onto do more research and found the addi swing.

This hook has given me more progress of easing the golfers elbow to almost no pain when I cut, wipe or rub.

 It's so comfortable to use, I have a knife grip on my hook, but if you had a pencil hold on your hook it would still be worth the buy with the pen hold as it has a very comfortable hold equal to a pen grip and a groove for your thumb to sit into.

With the knife grip there is a generous amount of length to hold onto your hook and a hook shaft that just glides through your crochet work.

They remind me of holding a tooth brush or nice shaver, the more expensive type's that give you a comfortable hold and grip.

So I had  to make a new holder for my hooks.

1 solid disposable cup

Some yarn and my hook

Start with making a sc circle to fit the bottom of the cup, once it fits the bottom of the cup, stop increases, continue to crochet and your work will grow tall up the sides of your cup

 I increased for the top of the lip for both out side and in side of the cup.

Then I decreased back to the st count the same as the sides of the cup and crocheted it just a little longer so the whole piece will fit snug outside and inside with out any need for glue

The next part I made.

 I made 8 sc in a ring and crocheted in the round for the length desired, this will hold my needles and scissors and I am going to place it around the cup like a 

donut

This is what I had been using for a long time

I sewed the donut around the cup and secured it in only 3 places, this leaves me gaps to slide my scissors and whatnot into

 I had no need to stuff the needle holder as I made it thick by using 2 strands of yarn.

So here she is all finished, simple yet effective

I really missed my old crochet hook organizer, so I gave it a face lift and another dimension, an inner upright hook holder for the addi swing hooks.

I'm so pleased to have her back I missed her convenience, here is a picture of her with her new face lift.

 The tiny buttons are to hold small sewing needles.

 this is the guts of her, so you can see it's easy to stick in pins and hooks!

Which Stitch Hat

Which Stitch Hat Pattern

What's with the name?

Which Stitch.

Well this stitch has more than one name.

The UP and DOWN st.

The GRIDDLE st.

The LEMON PEEL st.

 And maybe even more.

I prefer the Up and Down stitch as it makes sense to me.

Once the first pattern row is established which is

1 sc, 1 dc, repeat the last 2 stitches to the end.

The up and down bit becomes clear on the next and every alternative row.

1 sc worked into a dc stitch, 1 dc worked into a sc stitch, worded this way it's really the down and up stitch.

NECK WARMER PATTERN HERE.

 The benefits of this st is that it works up very quickly and gives a closed piece of work (no holes) which is perfectly suited for a neck warmer or a hat.

Materials needed: Hook 4 to 5 mm, yarn DK 8ply, sewing needle

tape measure and some scissors, stitch marker

US terms used:

ch = chain

sc = single crochet

dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post dc
bpdc = back post dc

Level = beginner to expert.
Size = small to medium
Time approx 2 to 3 hours

 Pattern

 You will need the basic dc crown to begin, (click for link) once that is made, follow the instructions below.

Either size will work with the pattern instructions.

We will be joining rounds until the end of round 3.

Row 1, of the stitch pattern. You will be in the position of having made a slip st into the top of the ch 3, now ch 1 and make 1 sc into the same place as the sl st, 1 dc into next st, *1 sc into next st, 1 dc into next st,* repeat from *to * to end of the round, you should finish with 1 dc into the last st, sl st into the first sc of round 1

Row 2, ch 3 (first dc), work 1 sc into the next st, *work 1 dc into the next st, work 1 sc into the next st*, repeat from *to* to the last st, the last st will be a sc into a dc, make that, you will now increase into that same st with a dc, sl st into the top of the ch 3 to join

Row 3, ch 1, work 1 sc into the same place as the join (top of ch 3 space), *work 1 dc into next st, work 1 sc into next st*, repeat from *to* to end of the round, do not join round.

Row 4, this row will make up the rest of the pattern.

Work 1 dc into the next st, (use your st marker on this st if you want to keep track of your row count), *work 1 sc into next st, work 1 dc into next st,* repeat from *to* to 1 st before st marker, do not join round, now repeat pattern in rounds. A sc into a dc, a dc into a sc.

 You may not want to use that annoying st marker, you can just go around and around until you to get approx, 7 inches total hat length and then make a ribbed look edging, finish with a dc st, no need to join round.

Ribbed Look Hat Edge.

Row 1, work 1 dc in each st around, sl st into the first dc of this round

Row 2, ch 3, *work 1 bpdc around the next st, work 1 fpdc around the next st, repeat from *to* to end, come in from behind the back of the chain 3 and sl st to join round

Row 3, ch 3, *work 1 bpdc around the next bpdc, work 1 fpdc around the next fpdc,* repeat from *to* to end,
come in from behind the back of the chain 3 and sl st to join round

You may want to finish your hat edge here, or repeat row 3 for more length. If the hat edge needs to be a little tighter, do a round of 1 sc into each st.

Finish off and tie in ends.

I use a flower very similar to this one, free pattern here on my blog.

 BONUS FLOWER PATTERN

Flower Pattern

Chain 4, sl st to beginning ch to form a ring

Row 1, ch 2, work 10 dc into ring, to join, sl st into the 1^st dc of the round (10 dc), this will give us 5 pairs of 2 dc for each petal

Row 2, *ch 3, work (2 dc, 1 trbl) in same space as ch 3, work (1 trbl, 2 dc) in next dc, ch 3, sl st into the same dc, sl st into the next dc* repeat 4 more times (5 petals), end with a sl st into the beginning ch 3

Row 3, *ch 6, bring the ch 6 around the back of the petal and sl st into the next ch 3*, repeat 4 more times, to join, sl st into the 1^st ch 6 space

Row 4, *ch 3, work (3 dc, 3 trbl, 3 dc) in the ch 6 space, ch 3, sl st into the same ch 6 space, sl st into the next ch 6 space* repeat 4 more times, end with a sl st into the beginning ch 3

Row 5, repeat row 3

Row 6, *ch 3, work (3 dc, 5 trbl, 3 dc) in the ch 6 space, ch 3, sl st into the same ch 6 space, sl st into the next ch 6 space* repeat 4 more times, end with a sl st into the beginning ch 3, finish off, leave a long tail for sewing your flower onto your project

I wanted a slightly raised center for my flower, after completing the flower I attached my yarn to a center dc and made a front post dc in each of the 10 dc’s to give me this effect

Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cat Wood

Aka, Cats-Rockin-Crochet.

You can sell your items made from this pattern

I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use

Please link back to this pattern if you use it

TO PRINT OUT THE PATTERN, COPY AND PASTE TO A WORD DOCUMENT ON YOUR COMPUTER.

The Joel M Hat Pattern

The Joel M Hat Pattern

My inspiration for this pattern was Joel Maddens hair color, he changes it every week or maybe every day. 

He is a coach on The Voice.

 

 My Version

 I usually make my medium hats with a beginning crown of 72 st's, but the pattern used for the hat, made it shrink, so I had to start over with a crown count of 84 st's, it was a perfect count as the stitch pattern is dividable by 14 st's.

Below is the 70 st count for the crown, it was too small for a medium adult.

Below is the 84 st count, big difference!

The Joel M Hat Pattern

Hook size: AU 4.00mm. US G/6

Yarn ply: AU 8 ply. US 4 ply medium approx 120 gm’s

Tension: 9 dc’s, 2 inches wide. 1 dc, half inch high

US terms used
Beginner +

Time approx 3 hours: Size medium adult

Stitches used:

Ch = chain

Sl st = slip st

Sc = single crochet

Hdc = half double crochet

Dc = double crochet

Fphdc = front post half double crochet

Bphdc = back post half double crochet

Dec = decrease

Inc = Increase = more than 1 stitch in the same stitch

Yo = yarn over hook

Special Instructions:

Pattern is a 14 stitch repeat. Make your crown (end count) in multiples of 14. Example, I am using 84 dc which was an easy target to get to using the basic dc crown; I increased in 1 more row.

 I am using this size as the pattern tends to shrink down one size, so I am calling this size a medium.

Very small adult size you will need 70 dc st’s in the crown. You can manipulate the stitch count by adding or subtracting a stitch anywhere in the last row of making your crown, you may need to add or subtract 2 or 4 st’s, but that’s okay.

dc dec, next 3 st’s = yo hook, insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo pull through 2 loops only, yo hook, , insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), ), yo pull through 2 loops only,  yo hook, insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through remaining 4 loops on hook

To begin make the basic dc crown found here.

To get 84 st’s complete row 7 below.

Row 7, Ch 3, work 1 dc in next 4 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (84 dc)

Set Up Row for Pattern, (color changes will not be mentioned)

Row 1, Ch 3, work 1 dc in the next 3 st’s, work 1 sc in the next 6 st’s, *work 1 dc in the next 8 st’s, , work 1 sc in the next 6 st’s,* repeat from*to* to the last 4 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 4 st’s, , sl st to join in top of ch 3

Pattern:

Row 2, Ch 3, work 2 dc’s in same space as sl st (inc made), work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made), dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made),  work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, work 3 dc’s in the next st (inc made),

(14 st, pattern just made)

*work 3 dc’s  in the next st (inc made), work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made), dc dec, next 3 st’s (dec made),  work 1 dc in next 3 st’s, work 3 dc’s  in the next st (inc made),* repeat from *to* to end of the round, sl st to join in top of ch 3

Row 3 and remaining rows of pattern, repeat pattern row 2 approx 6 or 7 times in total (or length desired i.e: slouch look)

It’s up to you if you want a straight hat edge or the wave hat edge. If you want the wave hat edge add more rows of the pattern for length desired

Straight Hat Edge

Row 1, work 1 sc in the next 4 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 7 st’s, work 1 sc in the next 3 st’s. *work 1 sc in the next 3 st’s, work 1 dc in the next 8 st’s, work 1 sc in the next 3 st’s* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the first st of the round

Special size instructions:

For a tighter hat edge replace the hdc with sc’s.

For a looser hat edge replace the hdc with dc’s.

Row 2, ch 2 (first hdc), work 1 hdc in each st to end of the round, sl st into ch 2 space to join

Row 3, ch 2,* work 1 bphdc in next st, work 1 fphdc in next st,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into ch 2 space to join

Row 4, repeat row 3 for length desired.

Finish off and tie in ends.

You may find this amusing, this is how I jotted down the pattern as I made the hat and pattern.

Chickie Magoo helped test this pattern and she did find a mistake, lucky for me she did!
This is her hat made from the pattern 
Chickie chose a slouch look. 
This is Chickie's feed back.

I opted to add a few rows of FPHDC/BPHDC to enhance the slouch look. Just a note, the depth from crown to edge is a tad long for a non-slouch @ 84 sts ... at least it is for me. My head circ is 22". This hat measures 8" from top of crown to the beginning of the post stitch edge, then another inch for the post stitch edging.... that's why it's slightly slouchy. I don't mind that look so it's all good but just so you know. As for speed, once I figured out the pattern, it was a breeze and didn't take long at all, no more than just a plain hat really and the repeats are very easy to remember. After the first coloured stripe (once I figured it out lol) I didn't need to refer back to the pattern till I got to the straight edge... I would say it's quicker than it looks! Thank YOU x

 
Good luck with your project, I’d love to hear your feed back. Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too.

 TO PRINT OUT THE PATTERN, COPY AND PASTE TO A WORD DOCUMENT ON YOUR COMPUTER.

Crochet Koala Applique

Crochet Koala Applique Pattern

It looks great on a hat (pattern for hat)

Koala Crochet Appliqué

Size of koala: 4 inches high, 5 inches wide

Hook: 3.5 mm Yarn: 8 ply, small amount of grey, white and black, sewing needle, scissors

Terms: US

Time: 2 to 3 hours

Skill level: Beginner +

Stitches used:

Magic ring

Sl st – slip stitch

Ch = chain

Sc = single crochet

Hdc = half double crochet

Dc = double crochet

Trbl = triple crochet (treble crochet)

Scfr = single crochet foundation row

Hdcfr = half double crochet foundation row

Bst = bullion stitch, 5 yo

 Construction:

2 body pieces, 2 ears, 2 eyes, 2 legs, 1 nose, rounds are joined.

Body: Make 2: 1 Grey and 1 White

Row 1, magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc into magic ring, (close magic ring), sl st to join round into beginning sc (6 sc’s)

Row2, ch 1, work 2 sc’s in each st around, sl st to join in beginning sc (12 sc’s)

Row 3, ch 1, work 2 sc’s in each st around, sl st to join in beginning sc (24 sc’s)

Row 4, ch 1,* work 1 sc into next 5 st’s, work 2 sc into next st,* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to join in beginning sc (28 sc’s), finish off leaving a long tail for weaving, hide beginning tail by sewing it in

Ears: Make 2, beginning with white in the first 2 rows, followed by the grey in the next 2 rows.

Row 1, magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc into magic ring, (close magic ring), sl st to join round into beginning sc (6 sc’s)

Row 2, ch 1,  work 1 sc into next 2 sc, work 2 sc into next sc, work 1 sc into next 2 sc, work 2 sc into next sc, sl st to join in beginning sc (8 sc), break off white and continue on with grey color

Row 3, ch 1, work 1 sc into next 3 sc, work 2 sc into next sc, work 1 sc into next 3 sc, work 2 sc into next sc, sl st to join in beginning sc (10 sc)

Left Ear: Row 4

Row 4, ch 1, sl st into same space as ch 1, sl st into next 2 st’s, work 2 sc’s into next 4 st’s, work 2 dc into next st, work 2 trbl into next st, work 2 dc into next st, sl st to join in beginning sl st, finish off leaving a long tail for weaving, hide beginning tail by sewing it in

Right Ear: Row 4

Row 4, ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 2 trbl into next st, work 2 dc into next st, work 2 sc into next 4 st’s, work 1 sl st into next 3 st’s, sl st to join in the bottom of the starting ch 3 of the round, finish off leaving a long tail for weaving, hide beginning tail by sewing it in

Legs: make 2, grey color

Row 1, make a hdc foundation row of 10 hdc’s, finish off leaving a tail for weaving, hide beginning tail by sewing it in

Nose: make 1, black color

Row 1, working a sc foundation row, work 3 sc foundations, changing to a hdc foundation row, make 6 hdc foundations, , finish off leaving a tail for weaving, do not hide beginning tail, follow construction instructions

Eyes: make 2, black color

Row 1, magic ring, ch 3, work 1,(5 yo’s) bullion st, into ring, close ring, sl st to top of ch 3 and close work, forming the shape of a small eye, finish off leaving a tail for weaving, hide beginning tail by sewing it in

Construction:

Pull slightly on body and head pieces to form almost an oval shape, the sewing tail will be poking out to the left side or the right side of the body or head once manipulated correctly.

Sew grey head to white body by over lapping the head over the body slightly.

Place the legs with the long tail for sewing on the shoulder of the body, legs should be curved slightly and sticking over the bottom of the body slightly.

Nose construction: sew beginning tail to end tale position, hide in tail and finish that piece of yarn off, pull nose into shape, small arch at the top, larger arch at the bottom, sew center space of nose opening closed, do not make this too tight, position nose and sew on the nose

Position ears, the larger part of the ear should be on a down ward slope (see pictures)

Sew on eyes

Sew on a mouth; I visualize a sideways C that meets in the middle

Sew on some claws, I used 3 small sewing st’s on each

Once all of this was made I did a few grey sc’s in between the legs and left a very long tail to sew my appliqué on with.

First Video Tutorial Crochet Koala Applique

 Good luck with your project, I’d love to hear your feed back. Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too. TO PRINT OUT THE PATTERN, COPY AND PASTE TO A WORD DOCUMENT ON YOUR COMPUTER