Below, pattern tester Elizabeth Parsons, thank you Beth.
Below Pattern tester, Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.
I ran out of the color I began making my hat in, so I switched colors to a green, it kind of reminded me of a strawberry, so I ended up adding some leaves and a lady bug for a quirky hat.
Size small to medium/ if you want a larger hat use a larger hook
Main color approx 100 gm’s
Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6
Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply
US terms used through out pattern
St’s used:
Sl st = slip stitch
Ch = chain
Hdc foundation row= half double crochet foundation row
Fpdc= front post double crochet crocodile st, Special st see note
Dc= double crochet
Skill= Intermediate
Time=leisurely 4 hours
PLEASE READ ALL NOTES:
You will need to know how to make a hdc foundation row prior to beginning your hat.
Your hat will begin at the bottom of the hat edge
Row 1: make a hdc foundation row of 72, sl st to form a circle into the top of the ch of the first hdc (72 hdc)
Picture, should be set up row 2
Set up Round:
Row 2: ch 4, skip 2 hdc’s, work 2 dc’s in next hdc, ch1, skip 2 hdc’s, *work 1 dc in next hdc, ch 1, skip 2 hdc’s, work 2 dc’s in next hdc, ch 1, skip 2 hdc’s* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round (12 x 1dc, 12 x 2 dc’s)
Pattern Round:
Row 3: work 1 sc in same space as join, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the sc space to join round
Set up Round:
Row 4: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, ch 1, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 1, *work 2 dc in the sl st space, ch 1, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 1* repeat from *to* to end, do not join, see next row
Picture should be set up round 4
Pattern Round:
Row 5: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space
Special note: the pattern of the hat does begin to tighten up by this stage, so you will be chaining 2 now instead of 1:
Set up Round:
Row 6: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 2, *work 2 dc in the sl st space, ch 2, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 2* repeat from *to* to end,
Pattern Round:
Row 7: repeat Row 5:
Set up Round:
Row 8: Repeat Row 6:
Continue working in pattern sequence until your work measures approx 5.5 inches long, ending on a pattern row
Decreasing for the crown of the hat: You will not be making a ch 1 or ch 2 for the first decrease row:
Set up Round: Decrease: decrease is made by omitting the ch 2
Row 1: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, *work 2 dc in the sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s,* repeat from *to* to end,
Pattern Round:
Row 2: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space
Decreasing for this row: If we think of our pattern st as a clock, we have 12 crocodile stitches around, we will make our decrease in the set up row at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions = 2 decreases:
Set up Round: Decrease
Row 3: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, work 2 dc in the sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 5 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 2 more times
Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal
Row 4: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space
Set up Round: Decrease = 2 decreases
Row 5: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, work 2 dc in the sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 4 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 1 more time
Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal
Row 6: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space
Set up Round: Decrease = 2 decreases
Row 7: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s),3 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s,
Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal
Row 8: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space
Set up Round: Decrease = 3 decreases
Row 9: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this)
Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal
Row 10: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space ( 3 crocodile st’s only), break off yarn leaving a tail to sew opening closed, turn hat in side out and thread around opening then pull thread closed.
You will need to sew up the small gap in the beginning hdc foundation row as well.
Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.
