Click on the picture for this pattern

Click on the picture for this pattern
Click on the picture for this pattern

Friday, April 24, 2009

Beret with a simple cable stitch. Free Pattern.

This yarn I have used is quite old, I can't even remember where it came from. I wanted a simple stitch pattern for the beige colour, it took me a few days to come up with something. I did not want anything with holes or too fancy. A couple of easy cable rows has set this colour off. It is a little on the itchy side being 100% wool and the type of wool it is, but I will give it a rinse in fabric softener and hopefully that will smooth things out a bit.

The yarn I chose to use.
The simple cable is just noticeable.
And it is still noticeable from a distance too.
Beret with a simple cable stitch.

Size:
Woman’s small, medium and large

Experience level:
Intermediate

Time to make:
One evening

Materials:
Size 5mm hook, H/8
100 gm’s of 12 ply yarn

Tension:
I am a medium tension crocheter, if you crochet tightly use a larger hook,
if you crochet loosely use a smaller hook

Stitches used: US terms.
Sc, Hdc and Dc

Special stitches:
Cable stitch, worked over 4 dc= skip next 3 st’s, dc into following 4th dc, dc into 3rd skipped dc, dc into 1st skipped dc, dc into 2nd skipped dc. Please note: at the beginning of the cable round you will not ch 3, you will dc into the 4th dc along as per the cable st instructions.

Hdc decrease of next 2 st’s= yo hook, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, insert hook into next st and pull up a loop, work all 4 loops off hook.

Beginning at crown:
Ch 4
Work 11 dc into 4th chain from hook, sl st into the top of the 4th chain to join (12 dc), my count will always include the first ch 3 as a dc.

Increasing beret:
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 2 dc into each dc around, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (24 dc),

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, * repeat from * to * to end , sl st into top of ch 3 to join (36 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 2 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (48 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 3 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (60 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 4 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (72 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 5 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 5 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (84 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 6 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 6 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (96 dc)

Cable Stitch row:
*Cable st over the next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of first dc to join, (the first dc is the dc into 1st skipped dc of the cable stitch) (96 dc)

Dc row:
Ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc and in each dc around, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, (96 dc)

Cable Stitch row:
*Cable st over the next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join, (the first dc is the dc into 1st skipped dc of the cable stitch, see special stitches) (96 dc)

Decrease rows: note, ch 2 is the first hdc st
Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 5 dc, hdc decrease over next 2 dc, *work 1 hdc into next 6 dc, hdc decrease over next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2

Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 4 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc, *work 1 hdc into next 5 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2

Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 3 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc, *work 1 hdc into next 4 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2 (60 hdc)

Single crochet rounds, no decreases: Please note the beginning ch 1 is not counted as the first sc

Ch 1, work 1 sc into sl st space, work 1 sc into each hdc to end, sl st to join into first sc space (60 sc)
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for large beret
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for medium beret
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for small beret

Try on the beret whilst making the sc rounds for your tailor made fit.
This model head is a small size with a medium size beret on it.
The beret can also be worn sloping from front to rear.
This is the yarn I began with and I still have some more yarn to use to make another one.

13 comments:

Sherry said...

I like this pattern too. Thanks for sharing!

Iggle Piggle (aka Jacqui) said...

That looks gorgeous Cat and thanks for posting yet another free pattern. I love the natural colour.

cats-rockin-crochet said...

Sherry, thank you, I'm glad you like it.

Iggle, thank's so much, I'm more than happy to share all of my patterns.

Wendy said...

What a nice pattern! I'll make this for my niece, who really wants a slouchy hat!

Geraldine said...

This is a gorgeous beret! At first glance, it looked like a loooong set of directions but I realise now, its dividedinto different sizes. Im going to give this a whirl. Thank you! :<)

www.veggiesyarnsnandtails.wordpress.com

Mary Jane said...

Is this yarn a # 4 medium worsted wt yarn? The pattern says it's bulky, but it doesn't look bulky in the photo. Or is it a # 5 bulky wt?
Thanks for the pattern :)

cats-rockin-crochet said...

Hi Mary Jane, here is the conversion from AU (UK) to US. Thanks so much for considering my pattern to use.


Australia Yarn Weights
USA Yarn Weights
UK Yarn Weights
Tension Range


12 Ply
Worsted
Triple Knit
16-22 sts

cheers Cat.

Anonymous said...

Just made this for my daughter and it comes out so beautiful. We used a solid coral color and your right the design adds all the pizazz you need on this one! Love it!

cats-rockin-crochet said...

Cheers for your feed back :)

Handy Home-dweller said...

I am having the hardest time with the decrease. What don't I understand? I know how to hdc.

cats-rockin-crochet said...

some times the answer is right in front of us, but we do not see it as we have been concentrating too hard on all of the instructions, I'm assuming it's the hdc decrease that has you, you can always just do 1 hdc into the next 2 st's for a simple decrease, how does that sound? Good luck and cheers Cat.

antimmons said...

Love this pattern and look!!! I'm having a hard time getting started though. When you finish your 11 dc's and are sl'ing to the "4th chain" that's not the first dc? I've only worked with patterns that sl to the first dc, sc, hdc....etc. So does that mean at the end of a row each sl is to the chain (chain 3)? Not the dc? Thanks.

Cathy Wood said...

yes into the 4th, as the dc's are made into the 1st ch of the beginning 4, so it is sort of into a 3rd chain. Cheers Cat