Crochet Tunisian Entralac. Success of Failure?

My Tunisian Entralac journey began with some practice and more practice. I wanted to understand how it worked and why I needed the stitch count that was used. 

You need a vertical and horizontal stitch count, plus 1, for each square you begin with, you will count the last loop on the hook for the last square made as the plus 1.

Elizabeth Ham made a fantastic video tutorial that I first followed, I also watched some other video tutorials that came in handy.

So I had done my research, bought my yarn and began on my first project.

My first project was a couple of covers for the head part of my recliner lounge chairs.

The squares a 5x5.

These did take much longer to make than I thought they would. I was using a 4.00 mm, US G/6 hook and 8 ply, US 4 ply yarn.

Now because my hubby lives in his recliner, I made him some arm covers, but this time I used 2 strands of the yarn, a larger hook and I had a much larger working piece in no time.

Next it was onto a throw for the couch, I had cracked the stitch and understood it so much more, so I decided to make the throw with bigger squares, 16 ply, US 8 ply and an 8 mm US L/11hook. I'm still making this throw and need to stock up on more yarn for completion.

The squares are 10 x 10.

Now upon surfing crochet as I like to do at times, I came across a slipper pattern made with granny squares and the placement guide was this picture

which came from this site.

Well why not ? Was my very first thought!

That could be made with the Tunisian Entralac method.

I used what I thought would be a close st count for my size slipper, 12 x 12 squares and the same ply yarn and hook as the throw.

This is what it looked liked once I finished the squares.

The next step was to sew it together.

Top view

Bottom view

I could see I had made these too big for myself

But what the heck? I had tried and almost succeeded, back to the drawing board for measurements.

Waste not want not, they are now on display as a pot plant cover in my sun room.

I'm very pleased that I did try this method for the slipper, I can see myself trying this with other items too.

Thanks for reading my post and just maybe you have learned a lesson along with me.

Crochet Leaf On My Hat

Crochet Leaf On My Hat

Very suttle leaves in groups of 4 are spread over the hat in 2 pattern row repeats.

Size: Medium Adult

Main color approx 60 gm’s

Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6

Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply

US terms used through out pattern

St’s Used:

Sl st = slip stitch

Ch = chain

Dc = double crochet

Special Notes:

Dc 3 together = yo hook, insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops on hook,(2 loops on hook) yo hook insert hook into next st, draw up a loop,(4 loops on hook) yo hook draw through 2 loops on hook (3 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo hook, pull through 2 loops, (4 loops on hook) yo hook, pull through all 4 loops on hook

Skill = beginner +

Time =leisurely 4 hours

Special notes: You will need the 72 dc, basic dc crown pattern to begin making your hat, which is in written form and a video tutorial, located at this link.

http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2011/07/crochet-basic-dc-crown.html

Complete your basic dc crown. The chain 3 is the first st of every round

Pattern rows:

 Row 1: ch 7 (ch 7= 1dc and a ch 4), skip 5 dc’s, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in next dc,  ch 4 , skip next 5 dc’s,  *work 1 dc in next dc, ch 4, skip next 5 dc’s, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in next dc, ch 4, skip next 5 dc’s,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round ( 6 groups of (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) 6 single dc’s)

Row 2: ch 5 (ch 5 = 1 dc and a ch 2), work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,) ch 2, work 1 dc around the ch 3 group, ch 2, work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,) ch 2,  *work 1 dc in the next dc, ch 2, work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,)  ch 2, work 1 dc around the ch 3 group, ch 2, work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,) ch 2,* repeat from*to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 3: ch 5 (ch 5 = 1 dc and a ch 2), work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2, work (3 dc in the next dc), ch 2, work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2, *work 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2, work (3 dc in the next dc), ch 2, work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

 At the end of row 3, your hat may look like a little out of shape, just like this picture

Dc 3 together over next 5 st’s, see special notes above:

Row 4: ch 4 (ch 4 = 1 dc and a ch 1) work a dc 3 together this way (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip next dc, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 1,* work 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip next dc, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 1,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

At the end of row 4, your hat will come back into shape, just like this picture

Row 5: ch 7 (ch 7= 1dc and a ch 4), skip over the dc dec st, skip next dc, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in the ch space, ch 4, skip next dc, skip over the dc dec st, *work 1 dc in the next dc, ch 4, skip over the dc dec st, skip next dc, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in the ch space, ch 4, skip next dc, skip over the dc dec st, * repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 6: repeat row 2

Row 7: repeat row 3

Row 8: repeat row 4

Hat before, making the hat edging

 

Hat edge:

Row 1: ch 2 (ch 2=1 hdc), work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space, *work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 2 to join round (66 hdc)

if your stitch count is out a couple of  st’s, that’s okay, you can add or decrease anywhere on the next row, this is not an exact size, try your hat on and see if you want it smaller or larger, make adjustments on the next row

Row 2: ch 2 (ch 2=1 hdc), work 1 hdc in each hdc around, sl st to top of beginning ch 2 to join round

Row 3, Row 4 and Row 5: repeat Row 2, finish off weave in ends. But if you want your hat longer add a few more rows of row 2:

PRINTER FRIENDLY VERSION HERE

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

I hope that you have found these instructions useful.
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I am always more than happy to help.

Crochet Tunisian 2 Ways

Playing with the Tunisian stitch again, I just love it's versatility, here I am making a head rest cover for my new lounge suite, almost 1 down and a few to go, to see this stitch in action got to this link.

More on the Tunisian short row dish cloth, I made one to the recommended beginning ch length and the other was an even shorter one as I had less yarn to use.

The small one with a picot edging:

The larger one:

To see this stitch in action got to this link.