Once again I find myself chasing shapes for mosaic
and still loving it.
Below is a picture of how I constructed the shape, to be able to work it into a hat pattern.
Looks like scribble right?
but I knew what it meant and went from there.
The rounds
are made up of sc's, which are worked into the back loop of the st you
are working on, it leaves the front loop of that st available to work
a dc into. The dc will be worked into the front loop of the row below
you are working on. The dc you are making and the row below is the same
color, so it's easy to know where you are working into.
This hat can be made in many sizes, from new born to large adult using a stitch count in multiples of 11.
You can also use a thicker yarn and larger hook.
Once
the band has been made and joined for the size of your hat, the 1st row
of the body of your hat will be adjusted for the pattern stitch count.
Written in US terms.
Suggested Materials needed:
10 ply/Aran/Worsted
5mm
Stitches used:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
bl = back loop
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet (all dc's will be worked into the front loop of 2 rows below)
dec = decrease
inc = increase
Special Stitches:
dc
in the front loop of the st 2 rows below (when you do this, you will skip over
the st that now sits behind the dc you just made, we don't want to make
extra st's). The front loop will be the same color as the one you are now working with, so that makes it easy to identify.
To Begin:
Make the band/brim See the bottom of this post for a video tutorial on how to make this band and also how to make the alternative band.
Ch 9
Row 1. work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1 and turn (8sc)
Row 2. work 1 sc into the back loop of each sc, ch 1 and turn (8sc)
continue working row 2 until you have 57 rows, once the band is joined with a row of sl st's, you will have 58 rows.
Join band into a circle.
Leave yarn
attached, ch 1 and sl st to join using the back loops of the last row
made and the unworked loops of the beginning chain row
TIP: Do not join too tight as it may pucker.
Set up round (inc this round by 8 more st's any where in the round)
Ch 1, work 1 hdc in each row end, to end, sl st to join round. 66 st's
(begin working grid pattern)
All st's are now worked into the back loop only (use the 2nd loop and not the 3rd loop of the hdc of the last round)
Round 1. (Using Main Color): Ch 1, work 1 bl sc in each st of the round, sl st to join and change color
To make pattern easy to read, I will refer to the special dc as a dc, please read the special stitch instructions.
Round 2. (C Color): Ch 1, *work 1 bl sc in each of the next 4 st's, work 1 dc, (1 bl sc, 1 dc) twice, work 1 bl sc in each of the next 2 st's* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join and change color
Round 3. Ch 1, *( work 1 bl sc in each of the next 2 st's, work 1 dc in next st) twice, work 1 bl sc in in the next st, work 1 dc in the next st, work 1 bl sc in each of the next 2 st's, work 1 dc in the next st* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join and change color
Round 4. Ch 1, *work 1 bl sc in each of the next 3 st's, work 1 dc in the next st, (work 1 bl sc in each of the next 2 st's, work 1 dc in next st) twice* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join and change color
Round 5. Ch 1, *work 1 bl sc in each of the next 2 st's, work 1 dc in the next st, work 1 bl sc in the next st, work 1 dc in the next st, work 1 bl sc in each of the next 3 st's, work 1 dc in the next st,work 1 bl sc in the next st, work 1 dc in the next st* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join and change color
Round 6. Ch 1, *work 1 bl sc in each of the next 3 st's, (work 1 bl sc in the next st, work 1 dc in next st) 4 times* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join and change color
Round 7. repeat round
Round 8. repeat round
Round 9. repeat round 3
Round 10. repeat round 2
Round 11. repeat round 1 main color
Round 12. repeat round 1 c color
Round 13. Ch 1, *work 1 dc in next st, 
