Still No Computer

Even though my computer is off sick, I can access my daughters lap top. But it's not the same. I like the big key board, the big mouse and all of my programs. It should not be long now before I get my big boy back, healthy, fast and easier to use.

So I'll just watch some more TV, but which programs to watch?

Crocheted Caps/Beanies

My step daughter Bek' has a friend who admired some of the hat's that I had made for Bek' over time. Her friend asked if I would make her some, as she is about to have chemo therapy for her cancer treatment and can't find any thing slightly flattering or unique. There was an offer of money for payment of the hat, which I refused and explained to Bek' that this year is all about assisting people in need and I would be more than happy to make her a small variety of chemo caps to wear. The lady is about 50, and I sure hope that she likes the styles and colours that I made the caps in.


This first cap is made with black acrylic, which I made with a brim with black eye lash yarn and a glittered multi colour edging that turns upwards so as not to itch the scalp.

This cap has a thinner finished edge which also turns up and is finished off with a yarn that looks similar to small locks of curly hair, a very suttle effect. This cap is a variegated blue, in a very soft tensel and acrylic mixture, finished off with cream edging and a small flowerette with a silver button in the centre.
And just plain cream, but with a lovely simple shell pattern, it almost looks like a cloche hat. I used the same pattern for the cap above, but with out the sc edge.

I made them all in a small size and they took me a casual 4 evenings, I did not write a pattern as I just wanted to enjoy making them, but it was a learning tool for me for future patterns to write.

By doing this for leisure and a cause, I do get great pleasure from it and I do feel better about myself knowing that these will give some one a moment in time to forget about their misfortune, what ever that may be.

Thanks for looking.

My Computer Has Crashed!

My computer has crashed, so it is off to the computer Doctor.

But I'll be back blogging as soon as I can, cheers Cat.

Crochet Piano Key Wrap

Just wrapped this wrap up in time for Mothers Day!

My Mum plays the piano at church every suday and I thought this would be perfect to keep her shoulders warm whilst playing her tunes.

Although my initial idea was for a scarf, the scarf was too wide, so I made it a shoulder wrap instead. I had intensions to make a few of these to raise funds, but it is too time consuming, I need to make smaller items that take less time, which I have and am still making.

My main computer has crashed and it has the graph pattern details with in it's brain.

So I'll have to wait to share this pattern with you.

Below is the beginning of the wrap, it is all made in sc and an 8 ply yarn. I used a graph I altered for the piano keys. To get the same graph on the other side of the wrap, I simply turned the graph up side down and followed it that way.

I made a full length piano scarf way back in 2007 which you can view via this link.

My #5 daughter is my model in these pictures.
Side view.
Side view.

And just a rear view snap. You can see that the wrap folds down into a collar just so neatly.

Beret with a simple cable stitch. Free Pattern.

This yarn I have used is quite old, I can't even remember where it came from. I wanted a simple stitch pattern for the beige colour, it took me a few days to come up with something. I did not want anything with holes or too fancy. A couple of easy cable rows has set this colour off. It is a little on the itchy side being 100% wool and the type of wool it is, but I will give it a rinse in fabric softener and hopefully that will smooth things out a bit.

The yarn I chose to use.

The simple cable is just noticeable.

And it is still noticeable from a distance too.

Beret with a simple cable stitch.

Size:
Woman’s small, medium and large

Experience level:
Intermediate

Time to make:
One evening

Materials:
Size 5mm hook, H/8
100 gm’s of 12 ply yarn

Tension:
I am a medium tension crocheter, if you crochet tightly use a larger hook,
if you crochet loosely use a smaller hook

Stitches used: US terms.
Sc, Hdc and Dc

Special stitches:
Cable stitch, worked over 4 dc= skip next 3 st’s, dc into following 4th dc, dc into 3rd skipped dc, dc into 1st skipped dc, dc into 2nd skipped dc. Please note: at the beginning of the cable round you will not ch 3, you will dc into the 4th dc along as per the cable st instructions.

Hdc decrease of next 2 st’s= yo hook, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, insert hook into next st and pull up a loop, work all 4 loops off hook.

Beginning at crown:
Ch 4
Work 11 dc into 4th chain from hook, sl st into the top of the 4th chain to join (12 dc), my count will always include the first ch 3 as a dc.

Increasing beret:
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 2 dc into each dc around, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (24 dc),

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, * repeat from * to * to end , sl st into top of ch 3 to join (36 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 2 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (48 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 3 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (60 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 4 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (72 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 5 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 5 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (84 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 6 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 6 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (96 dc)

Cable Stitch row:
*Cable st over the next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of first dc to join, (the first dc is the dc into 1st skipped dc of the cable stitch) (96 dc)

Dc row:
Ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc and in each dc around, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, (96 dc)

Cable Stitch row:
*Cable st over the next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join, (the first dc is the dc into 1st skipped dc of the cable stitch, see special stitches) (96 dc)

Decrease rows: note, ch 2 is the first hdc st
Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 5 dc, hdc decrease over next 2 dc, *work 1 hdc into next 6 dc, hdc decrease over next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2

Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 4 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc, *work 1 hdc into next 5 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2

Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next 3 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc, *work 1 hdc into next 4 hdc, hdc decrease over next 2 hdc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to join in top of ch 2 (60 hdc)

Single crochet rounds, no decreases: Please note the beginning ch 1 is not counted as the first sc

Ch 1, work 1 sc into sl st space, work 1 sc into each hdc to end, sl st to join into first sc space (60 sc)
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for large beret
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for medium beret
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space
Ch 1, work 1 sc into first sc space, work 1 sc into each sc to end, sl st to join into first sc space, finish off here for small beret

Try on the beret whilst making the sc rounds for your tailor made fit.

This model head is a small size with a medium size beret on it.

The beret can also be worn sloping from front to rear.

This is the yarn I began with and I still have some more yarn to use to make another one.

Beret with a simple cross stitch. Free Pattern.

When I write a pattern I usually hand write it whilst I am making the garment, then I make another garment whilst I type the pattern, this usually corrects any mistakes that I may have made. How ever I did not follow this process this time. So I would very much appreciate your feed back if you make this beret using this pattern.

Below is the yarn I used, it took 1.5 balls (approx) to complete the beret, the yarn does not refer to it's ply.

Below is the completed beret in a medium size.

Size:
Woman’s small, medium and large

Experience level:
Beginner to intermediate

Time to make:
One evening

Materials:
Size 5mm hook
100 gm’s of 10 to 12 ply yarn

Tension:
I am a medium tension crocheter, if you crochet tightly use a larger hook,
if you crochet loosely use a smaller hook

Stitches used in US terms:
Sc, Hdc and Dc

Special stitches:
Dc cross stitch= skip next st, dc into following st, dc into skipped st

Beginning at crown:
Ch 4
Work 11 dc into 4th chain from hook, sl st into the top of the 4th chain to join (12 dc)
Increasing beret:
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 2 dc into each dc around, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (24 dc), my count will always include the first ch 3 as a dc.

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, * repeat from * to * to end , sl st into top of ch 3 to join (36 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 2 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (48 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 3 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (60 dc)

Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 4 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 4 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (72 dc)

Next row has no increases:
Ch 3, *work 1dc into next dc,* repeat from *to* to end sl st into top of ch 3 to join (72 dc)
Increase row:
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same space as ch 3, work 1 dc into next 5 dc, *work 2 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into next 5 dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join (84 dc)

Begin cross st pattern, with no further increases:
Sl st to next dc, ch 3, work 1 dc in first sl st to join space,* sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into first dc to join (84 dc)

Decrease and cross st pattern round:
Sl st to top of ch 3 space (second st), ch 3, work 1 dc into 1st dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc, (decrease) work 1 dc into space between the next 2 dc, *skip next 2 dc, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 1 dc into the 2nd skipped dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 1 dc into the skipped dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into the next dc, work 1 dc into the skipped dc, (decrease) work 1 dc into space between the next 2 dc,* repeat from * to * ending with skip 1 dc, sl st into first dc to join ( 72 dc)

Decrease the single dc by skipping over it and cross st pattern round:
Sl st to top of ch 3 space (second st), ch 3, work 1 dc into 1st dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc, (decrease) skip single dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into 2nd skipped dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc, *(decrease) skip single dc, skip next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into 2nd skipped dc, sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc,* repeat from * to * ending with, (decrease) skip single dc, sl st into first dc to join ( 60 dc)

Cross st pattern round with no decreasing:
Sl st to top of ch 3 space (second st), ch 3, work 1 dc into 1st dc,* sk next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 1 dc into skipped dc,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st into first dc to join (60 dc)
Repeat above round one more time:

Ch 2, work 1 hdc into next dc and into each dc around, sl st into top of ch 2 to join (60 hdc includes ch 2)

Note: ch 1 is not counted as a stitch from here on:
Ch 1, work 1 sc into top of ch 2, work 1 sc into each hdc around, sl st into ch 1 to join (60 sc)
Sizes:
Ch 1, work 1 sc into each sc around, sl st into ch 1 to join (60 sc) This is the above row, referred to for the 3 sizes below.

For the large size, repeat the above row one more time: finish off
For the medium size, repeat the above row 3 more times: finish off
For the small size repeat the above row 5 more times: finish off

Remember to sew in all loose ends.

Try the beret on whilst making the sc rounds for your tailor made fit.

I would appreciate all feed back (good or bad) on this pattern.
I hope you enjoy your Beret.
I will have more free patterns to come in the very near future so stay tuned.

Just to add, here is a link to the completed beret by another blogger.

Yarn from the states

No I am not telling a long story here, just thought I would share with you some pictures of some lovely yarn I have been sent from the US. It's all for charity, fire victims and fund raising for the fire brigade. Thank you for your generosity!

Below is some yarn from Octobermoon.

Below is some yarn from Rachel G.
Below is a left handed, crocheting cat that Rachel G made for me!

If you look closely at the yarn choice here in this beret, you will notice it is from the first lot of yarn I received from Octobermoon.

The pattern for this beret will soon be uploaded to my blog for free for all to use.

Pocket Scarf. Free Pattern. Easy.

Pocket Scarf, side on pockets.
When I was thinking of the design for this pocket scarf, I originally planned for the pocket opening to be along the top of the inside of the scarf, but the more I thought about it and as the scarf progressed, I realized that a side pocket entry would be much more easier to use. Just like the pockets on the sides of a pair of slacks.
I have made the scarf section in a griddle stitch pattern, but it could be just as easily made in a single crochet stitch pattern.
I also allowed for some stretch in the scarf I made, as it is made from acrylic which will stretch slightly.
The contrasting colored yarn which I used was much thicker than the main colored yarn. How ever this did not destroy the look of the scarf, in fact it added a much warmer pocket.
My suggestions for a contrasting yarn would be for a feathered type yarn, eyelash yarn or a crazy type yarn. If you find any of these too thin, just keep using the main colored yarn along with it, (2 strands).

This scarf can be altered for sizing. I am of a medium build and height, so you can adjust accordingly. The same goes for the hands too.
I began with a chain that was slightly wider than the widest part of my hand. I also wanted an even number of stitches for when I began the griddle stitch pattern.
Level: Beginner
Time: Approx 12 hours
Size: Medium Adult
Materials needed.
About 100gms of main color
About 50gms of contrasting color
Size 4.00mm hook (US G/6)
Darning needle
Terms used are US terms

Small Pocket

Beginning pattern.

Making the rear of pocket
Ch 21
Work 1 sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across (20 sc), ch 1 to turn
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc) wrong side of garment
For a small pocket, repeat above row 34 more times. (Total of 36 rows of sc)
For a larger pocket repeat above row 42 more times. (Total of 44 rows of sc)

Large Pocket

Shaping the pocket base
Work 1 sc in each sc across in the back of the loop, for this row only, ch 1 to turn
Work 2 more rows of 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn
Work 1 sc in each sc across in the front of the loop, for this row only, ch 1 to turn
Work 1 more row of 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn

Row count and contrasting color join
You should now be on row 41 for small pocket or row 49 for large pocket.
You will be changing to the contrasting color; this is done on the wrong side of the scarf which is an even row. Joining in fancy yarn on the wrong side will give you the full effect of any fancy yarn used on the right side of the garment.

Making the front of the pocket
With contrasting color
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc)
Repeat above row until your contrasting color is the same length as the rear pocket, if you have used a thicker contrasting yarn, the row count will not be the same.

Making the scarf
For my height (5 foot and 4 inches) and comfort I made the scarf (in between both pockets) 49 inches long. I chose to use the griddle stitch but a simple single crochet stitch can be used.
The griddle stitch instructions
Changing to main color now
Work 1 sc in first sc, work 1 dc in next sc, *work 1 sc in next sc, work 1 dc in next sc,* repeat from * to * to end, ch 1 to turn (20 st’s)
Work 1 sc in first dc, work 1 dc in next sc, *work 1 sc in next dc, work 1 dc in next sc,* repeat from * to * to end, ch 1 to turn
Repeat above row for length required.
Single crochet instructions
Changing to main color now
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc)
Repeat above row for length required.

Making the front of the second pocket
Join in contrasting yarn on wrong side
Make the second pocket the same length as the first pocket, ending on wrong side.

Shaping the pocket base
Working with main color now,
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc)
Work 1 sc in each sc across in the front of the loop, for this row only, ch 1 to turn
Work 2 more rows of 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn
Work 1 sc in each sc across in the back of the loop, for this row only, ch 1 to turn
Place stitch marker at the end of the above row

Making the rear of pocket
Counting rows from the stitch marker
Work 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1 to turn (20 sc)
For a small pocket, repeat above row 35 more times. (Total of 36 rows of sc)
For a larger pocket repeat above row 43 more times. (Total of 44 rows of sc)
Finish off.

Bottom rear of the pocket folded up to the top rear of the front pocket

Sewing the pockets
With right side facing, fold the bottom rear of the pocket to the top rear of the front pocket, place this in line with the centre of the scarf and sew the edge across the top rear of the pocket (not the scarf). I used a simple whip stitch one way and turned to repeat for extra strength.

Sew the side of the pocket that faces inward to your body closed.

Sew the outside of the pocket from the bottom edge up wards, leaving an opening large enough for you to place you hands into. You may have to try the scarf on a few times to adjust the pocket opening. I sewed mine almost ¾’s of the way up.

Here a a couple of really bad photo's (LOL) that shows you 2 ways to wear the scarf. I'll try and get some better model picture's.

You can wear it long ways.

And you can also wear it short ways. Wrapped once around the neck.

My Hands Have Not Been Idle

Well, with all of this house selling and buying business, it has kept me quite busy lately. Although I kept on crocheting small items such as dish cloths, it was not much of a challenge. My step son came for a visit and reminded us of how soon our next grandchild will be born. Two weeks! on the 17th of April. Oh my god I thought, what do I have for our newest arrival? Well I know they are expecting a boy and I knew I had a couple of baby boy cardigans made, but something else was needed. I had a bag of scrap baby yarn, shades of blue, white and cream, perfect starter. Now what to make? I thought a starghan would be different and searched for a 6 pointed babyghan pattern, there are plenty out there for free on the internet. I came across a simple written pattern and began with that one. I should have had more confidence with my crochet ability and adjusted the size of the corners in the beginning of the pattern as it became too tight in some area's, then when I did increase in the corners it would also become too loose. It did not help at all that I was going from 3 ply yarn to 4 ply yarn, so once I had the ball rolling and knew what to do, the whole thing became more even. I used a size 3 mm hook through out and it was oh so slow, especially when I was using some yarn that would split if I was not careful. It took me 5 or 6 evenings, so that was not too bad at all.
So here is the out come, I have since washed it and also used a lovely smelling fabric softener, when it has dried I will try to block it for better shaping.
I have another project on the go now, it will be one with a free and easy pattern for a winter item, so I'll be back with that one soon.

Here is the original link to the free pattern I have used here.

Oh Dear, Things Are Happening So Quick!

I wrote about my house being up for sale on Monday the 23 of March, by Thursday 26 of March my house was sold! We had 4 lookers and 2 buyers in that time, we accepted the offer that gave us our full asking price on the house. I had been down to view some some more houses in the small township we had chosen to move to in between those days. There seemed to be nothing on offer that suited us, but we had seen the out side of a relocated display home the week before. So I booked an appointment to view the house from the inside.
After much discussion and doing the dollar figures we decided on that one. But we had to crunch the seller on the figures a bit to make it worth our while.
As it is a relocated house, there is much to do on the outside. It sit's on a quarter block with a double car port, so you can imagine all of the extra's we need, to improve the block.
It's almost like a new home, even though it has been a display house, we will be the first to actually live in it.
Down went the deposit and we are currently in the waiting stage for our buyers finance to be approved. So that is where I have been of late, in the real estate world, which I knew barely nothing about until just recently.

I thought I'd throw in some picture's here of my naughty dirty dog's. Dad (Louie) look's remorseful for getting dirty, but playful and naughty little Rev, doesn't seem to care, he was out having fun!

Am I Bad?

My crochet hook sit's in my basket with a piece that has been on the go for more than a week. It's a piece of work that should only take a couple of hours to make, yet it is still there. So why is it not finished? Well we've made up our minds to sell our home and move to a bushy coastal area in which we can set up for our retirement later on. It won't be too far away from any of our children or to the hustle and bustle of the busy city's, just far enough to get away for a quiet retreat.

I've been on the go giving the house a spit and polish from top to bottom. I have also de cluttered every room except for where I keep my crochet supplies and yarn.

Below are some picture's that the real estate agent took for advertising our property.

Not one of the picture's show any sign of my crochet, but if you look through the TV in the 1st photo, you can see the reflection of where I keep my yarn stacked up against the wall behind my chair.

This is a room I made up for my grand kids when they come for sleep overs or just to play in.

This picture was used for advertising and you can just see little Rev, peeking over the decking.

How Would You Teach A Person To Crochet?

My eldest niece Roslyn came for a long week-end visit. She is from Queensland a good 2 and a half hour plane trip away.
Teach me to crochet Aunty? she asked. Well okay I said.
So how does one begin to teach another to crochet?
Firstly I showed her how to make a slip knot onto the hook and demonstrated how it pulled apart with out knotting, easy part.
I then showed her how to hold her hook and the yarn and expressed how each person finds their own comfort eventually.
Next it was making chains, lots of chains until she felt a little more comfortable.
Then I pulled it all un done and said let's try a chain of 10 and an extra chain for a turning chain, as we are now going to learn how to make a sc into the chain.
Now the chain of 10 plus 1 more chain for turning was easy for her.
In through the 2nd chain from the hook and draw through a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops, we repeated this to the end. Ch 1 to turn, now make a sc in the first sc and in each sc across, good, she had the hang of it. So once again I rip it out and ask her to make it all by her self.
Rip it, rip it, rip it, I said, sounds like a frog and that's why it's known as frogging it. So she is learning some crochet slang too!
Once she was confortable with the sc (by the way she was a fast learner, which made it quite easy for me to teach her) I asked her if she wanted to learn a dc and she said she was ready.
I also told her I was using US crochet terms as they are more popular.
We kept the same piece of work going and I told her to ch 3 to turn, but not to go into the first sc, but into the next sc, as the ch 3 to turn will now become her first st of the row.

Once again she picked this up quick and with comfort.

Do you want to make a scarf? Oh yes, she said.

So I chose some yarn similar to a beret I had given her and she began making her own scarf.

Her she is, in MY chair having fun with her new found hobby.

This is the first row of her scarf.

I asked her to count her dc's every now and again, some time's she had extra but mostly she had less. So a quick lesson of an increase or decrease was necessary. The missing dc's were from the beginning of her row's. So that was soon sorted.

Now shortly after her lesson she had to catch a plane to return home to QLD, so I loaded her up with some nice plastic hooks that she could use on the plane, the steel one's would have been conviscated as a lethal weapon.

I had the time to teach her to crochet in a circle too.

She was also thinking of making her self a blanket/aghan, but I did not have the time to teach her how to make a granny square and I advised her to youtube it for visual lessons and she did! I turned around and here she was on the computer, yelling out "this lady is too fast", "well pause it" I said "or find a better one to learn from" and she did.

So Roslyn has gone home with a new hobby.

My Toilet Paper Roll Holder.

I wanted a unique and original toilet paper roll holder for my entry in the Toilet Paper Roll Design competition with in the Crochet Lovers Victoria competition.
I had wire and beads in mind from the very beginning.
First of all I collected the medium that I needed.

I pre strung the wire with the beads.

Then I began to crochet away, beginning with a chained circle and increasing for 3 rows only.
I noticed that this wire was very hard to crochet with and it was scratching up my good no 6 hook. I have crocheted with wire before and I do not remember it being this hard before.
I eventually changed to another no 6 hook and kept going on for the outer side of the holder. I eventually ran out of one whole spool of wire, but I knew I had back up from another spool of wire.
It was not until I used the back up spool that I realized the wire was a thinner gauge. I had been crocheting with 24 gauge wire, I usually crochet with 28 gauge wire and it is much easier on the hands and the hook!
Now I had used that spool of wire too. I had no more back up on hand.
So I just sat the unfinished wire toilet paper cover on the toilet roll, whilst I thought about my next move. Wait and buy more wire, I couldn’t even remember where I had bought it in the first place, or try another medium. Oh yeah sure what could possibly look good with the wire?
Brain storm, try this. Crochet a lacey bottom.

So I did.

With a no 2.5 hook and some fine crochet cotton I made up the design as I went around the out sides.

As it started to take form, I got more and more excited, “this is going to work I thought”.

But my job was not over as I finished my final round.
I must stiffen this lace for it to stay in place for ever.
I wanted the perfect shape, but I knew the glue would stick to the toilet paper roll. So I wrapped the toilet paper roll in glad wrap to prevent this from happening.

Using a mixture of both PVA glue and water slightly heated, I dipped the lace into the mixture and shaped it around the paper roll.

My next step was to sit back and wait for the lace to dry out and hope that it will hold up the wire and beaded top part.
I would venture out side now and then with an egg flip to make sure the cotton was not adhering to the plastic board.

Finally I knew the cotton crocheted part was dry enough, due to the extreme hot weather we have been having. So I removed it from the toilet paper roll and it was upright and sturdy. Yay!

Sharkey the toilet lid cover was now going to have a new friend.
But I really wanted this to match the large toilet paper roll holder and the toilet brush, which is a steel look.

I think it is actually too delicate for this toilet and I know my sister-in-laws bathroom in her holiday house is decked out in all of these colours. So guess where it is headed? Off to Phillip Island where it will truly blend in and show off its unique individuality.

Oh boy it looks good on my kitchen table with all of my stainless steel.
But I do not think that is really an option, do you?