Cats-Rockin-Crochet Fibre Artist.

Hi all, I am taking a break for a while

2011-12-16T02:02:00.000+11:00

Season's Greetings To One and All.

I am taking a break from my crochet and dabbling in some other crafty things.

I am temporarily off face book too.

I hope to be back in 2012.

Here is a picture of my grand daughter Cindy's first Christmas.

Here are some pictures of my current crafty adventures.

See you all in the new year, take care now.

Yarn Craft. Yarn Balls. Scrap Yarn Project.

2011-11-04T00:58:00.000+11:00

I found a picture of a ball constructed with yarn, using a balloon and glue. I liked it!

I had the image but no real instructions.

I have recorded my events for those of you who wish to make this fun project too.

I am not the first and will certainly not be the last to create one of these beauties :)

Materials needed:

Yarn of your choice, clear drying glue and a balloon.

This is how I first visualized how the yarn should be attached to the balloon. I cut lengths of yarn, put them into the container of glue, then pulled them out 1 by 1, ran my fingers down the piece of yarn getting out the excess glue, then roughly placed the strand of yarn around the balloon, piece by piece.

This was a slow and messy process, I also realized that I would not be able to turn the balloon over to do the bottom until the top dried as the yarn would slide off the balloon :(

So here is the balloon, sitting on my sink to dry, it is on a plastic lid so it will not stick to that and the excess glue is running freely onto my sink, more mess. I also tried using doilies, but I scrapped that very quickly, the doily medium was heavy and it slipped off. I had also made my glue too thin :(

The balloon took a couple of days to dry enough for me to be able to turn it to finish off the bottom part, too slow.

I had to rethink my approach, so I blew up a couple of more balloons in different sizes, BUT, this time I simply wrapped the balloon with the yarn, then brushed on the glue (which I had made stronger this time). The first one I wrapped was the little one and I wrapped far too much yarn on it, so the second one was the medium size and I took more care to wrap it thinner. After they were brushed with the glue on all sides and bottoms (yes the entire balloon in one go) I placed them in a sunny place to dry.

This is my experience with the popping of the balloons.

These are the balls almost dried.

This is how I hung my yarn balls as a decorative piece in my sun room.

This project is only limited by one's imagination, I see so much more that can be done with this technique, such as:

Make a ball for your garden, place small scraps of yarn into it, the birds can pull out the scrap yarn and use it to make their nest with.

Make small balls and allow an opening to insert a small led light into it and place these around your out door seating area.

By using sausage shape balloons you can make a plastic bag storage/dispenser.

Wrap only half the balloon for a decorative plate.

The list goes on and on.

I have mentioned in my video about using these for light shades or candles, I am not sure if these will be fire resistant, it could come down to your choice of fiber that is used, more research is needed here if I am going to do that.

This is my next project for xmas, small decorations for my xmas get together, I am using cotton until I run out of that, then I will just use scrap yarn in xmas colors.

Home made glue to use:

Combine ½ cup flour and 2 cups cold water in a bowl.
Boil 2 cups of water in a sauce pan and add the flour and cold water mixture.
Bring to a boil again.
Remove from heat and add 3 tablespoons of sugar.
Let cool. The paste will thicken as it cools.

Crochet Tunisian Entralac. Success of Failure?

2011-10-07T20:51:00.002+11:00

My Tunisian Entralac journey began with some practice and more practice. I wanted to understand how it worked and why I needed the stitch count that was used.

You need a vertical and horizontal stitch count, plus 1, for each square you begin with, you will count the last loop on the hook for the last square made as the plus 1.

Elizabeth Ham made a fantastic video tutorial that I first followed, I also watched some other video tutorials that came in handy.

So I had done my research, bought my yarn and began on my first project.

My first project was a couple of covers for the head part of my recliner lounge chairs.

The squares a 5x5.

These did take much longer to make than I thought they would. I was using a 4.00 mm, US G/6 hook and 8 ply, US 4 ply yarn.

Now because my hubby lives in his recliner, I made him some arm covers, but this time I used 2 strands of the yarn, a larger hook and I had a much larger working piece in no time.

Next it was onto a throw for the couch, I had cracked the stitch and understood it so much more, so I decided to make the throw with bigger squares, 16 ply, US 8 ply and an 8 mm US L/11hook. I'm still making this throw and need to stock up on more yarn for completion.

The squares are 10 x 10.

Now upon surfing crochet as I like to do at times, I came across a slipper pattern made with granny squares and the placement guide was this picture

which came from this site.

Well why not ? Was my very first thought!

That could be made with the Tunisian Entralac method.

I used what I thought would be a close st count for my size slipper, 12 x 12 squares and the same ply yarn and hook as the throw.

This is what it looked liked once I finished the squares.

The next step was to sew it together.

Top view

Bottom view

I could see I had made these too big for myself

But what the heck? I had tried and almost succeeded, back to the drawing board for measurements.

Waste not want not, they are now on display as a pot plant cover in my sun room.

I'm very pleased that I did try this method for the slipper, I can see myself trying this with other items too.

Thanks for reading my post and just maybe you have learned a lesson along with me.

Crochet Leaf My Hat On

2011-08-25T21:06:00.001+10:00

Leaf My On Hat

Very suttle leaves in groups of 4 are spread over the hat in 2 pattern row repeats.

Size: Medium Adult

Main color approx 60 gm’s

Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6

Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply

US terms used through out pattern

St’s Used:

Sl st = slip stitch

Ch = chain

Dc = double crochet

Special Notes:

Dc 3 together = yo hook, insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops on hook,(2 loops on hook) yo hook insert hook into next st, draw up a loop,(4 loops on hook) yo hook draw through 2 loops on hook (3 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo hook, pull through 2 loops, (4 loops on hook) yo hook, pull through all 4 loops on hook

Skill = beginner +

Time =leisurely 4 hours

Special notes: You will need the 72 dc, basic dc crown pattern to begin making your hat, which is in written form and a video tutorial, located at this link.

http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2011/07/crochet-basic-dc-crown.html

Complete your basic dc crown. The chain 3 is the first st of every round

Pattern rows:

Row 1: ch 7 (ch 7= 1dc and a ch 4), skip 5 dc’s, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in next dc, ch 4 , skip next 5 dc’s, *work 1 dc in next dc, ch 4, skip next 5 dc’s, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in next dc, ch 4, skip next 5 dc’s,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round ( 6 groups of (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) 6 single dc’s)

Row 2: ch 5 (ch 5 = 1 dc and a ch 2), work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,) ch 2, work 1 dc around the ch 3 group, ch 2, work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,) ch 2, *work 1 dc in the next dc, ch 2, work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,) ch 2, work 1 dc around the ch 3 group, ch 2, work (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,) ch 2,* repeat from*to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 3: ch 5 (ch 5 = 1 dc and a ch 2), work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2, work (3 dc in the next dc), ch 2, work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2, *work 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2, work (3 dc in the next dc), ch 2, work (1 dc in each of the next 5 dc), ch 2,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

At the end of row 3, your hat may look like a little out of shape, just like this picture

Dc 3 together over next 5 st’s, see special notes above:

Row 4: ch 4 (ch 4 = 1 dc and a ch 1) work a dc 3 together this way (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip next dc, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 1,* work 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip next dc, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, (dc decrease over the 1^st, 3^rd and 5^th dc of the next 5 dc group), ch 1,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

At the end of row 4, your hat will come back into shape, just like this picture

Row 5: ch 7 (ch 7= 1dc and a ch 4), skip over the dc dec st, skip next dc, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in the ch space, ch 4, skip next dc, skip over the dc dec st, *work 1 dc in the next dc, ch 4, skip over the dc dec st, skip next dc, work (3 dc’s, 3 ch, 3 dc’s) in the ch space, ch 4, skip next dc, skip over the dc dec st, * repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 6: repeat row 2

Row 7: repeat row 3

Row 8: repeat row 4

Hat before, making the hat edging

Hat edge:

Row 1: ch 2 (ch 2=1 hdc), work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space, *work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the next dc, work 2 hdc in the ch 3 space, work 1 hdc in the top of the dc 3 together space,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 2 to join round (66 hdc)

if your stitch count is out a couple of st’s, that’s okay, you can add or decrease anywhere on the next row, this is not an exact size, try your hat on and see if you want it smaller or larger, make adjustments on the next row

Row 2: ch 2 (ch 2=1 hdc), work 1 hdc in each hdc around, sl st to top of beginning ch 2 to join round

Row 3, Row 4 and Row 5: repeat Row 2, finish off weave in ends. But if you want your hat longer add a few more rows of row 2:

Please do not sell my pattern or claim it as your own. You can make and sell items from my hat pattern, I would be most pleased if this pattern was used for a charitable event. I would love to see your completed items.

I hope that you have found these instructions useful.
Please like me on face book or and comment on my face book page for more user information.
I am always more than happy to help.

Crochet Tunisian 2 Ways

2011-08-22T21:50:00.000+10:00

Playing with the Tunisian stitch again, I just love it's versatility, here I am making a head rest cover for my new lounge suite, almost 1 down and a few to go, to see this stitch in action got to this link.

More on the Tunisian short row dish cloth, I made one to the recommended beginning ch length and the other was an even shorter one as I had less yarn to use.

The small one with a picot edging:

The larger one:

To see this stitch in action got to this link.

Crochet Crocodile Stitch Adult Hat pattern

2011-08-22T21:32:00.003+10:00

Below, pattern tester Elizabeth Parsons, thank you Beth.

Below Pattern tester, Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.

I ran out of the color I began making my hat in, so I switched colors to a green, it kind of reminded me of a strawberry, so I ended up adding some leaves and a lady bug for a quirky hat.

Size small to medium/ if you want a larger hat use a larger hook

Main color approx 100 gm’s

Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6

Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply

US terms used through out pattern

St’s used:

Sl st = slip stitch

Ch = chain

Hdc foundation row= half double crochet foundation row

Fpdc= front post double crochet crocodile st, Special st see note

Dc= double crochet

Skill= Intermediate

Time=leisurely 4 hours

PLEASE READ ALL NOTES:

You will need to know how to make a hdc foundation row prior to beginning your hat.

Your hat will begin at the bottom of the hat edge

Special st: the crocodile st is worked over the 2 dc’s that are made together in the 1 dc. 5 fpdc are worked around the 1^st dc, then another 5 fpdc worked around the 2^nd dc. To work your 1 st, 5 fpdc you must turn your working piece side ways to the right, so you will work your 5 fpdc side on from the top of the post downwards. When working the other side, you will turn your working piece side ways to the left, so you will work your 5 fpdc side on from the bottom of the post and upwards

Row 1: make a hdc foundation row of 72, sl st to form a circle into the top of the ch of the first hdc (72 hdc)

Picture, should be set up row 2

Set up Round:

Row 2: ch 4, skip 2 hdc’s, work 2 dc’s in next hdc, ch1, skip 2 hdc’s, *work 1 dc in next hdc, ch 1, skip 2 hdc’s, work 2 dc’s in next hdc, ch 1, skip 2 hdc’s* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round (12 x 1dc, 12 x 2 dc’s)

Pattern Round:

Row 3: work 1 sc in same space as join, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the sc space to join round

Set up Round:

Row 4: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, ch 1, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 1, *work 2 dc in the sl st space, ch 1, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 1* repeat from *to* to end, do not join, see next row

Picture should be set up round 4

Pattern Round:

Row 5: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Special note: the pattern of the hat does begin to tighten up by this stage, so you will be chaining 2 now instead of 1:

Set up Round:

Row 6: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 2, *work 2 dc in the sl st space, ch 2, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 2* repeat from *to* to end,

Pattern Round:

Row 7: repeat Row 5:

Set up Round:

Row 8: Repeat Row 6:

Continue working in pattern sequence until your work measures approx 5.5 inches long, ending on a pattern row

Decreasing for the crown of the hat: You will not be making a ch 1 or ch 2 for the first decrease row:

Set up Round: Decrease: decrease is made by omitting the ch 2

Row 1: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, *work 2 dc in the sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s,* repeat from *to* to end,

Pattern Round:

Row 2: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Decreasing for this row: If we think of our pattern st as a clock, we have 12 crocodile stitches around, we will make our decrease in the set up row at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions = 2 decreases:

Set up Round: Decrease

Row 3: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, work 2 dc in the sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 5 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 2 more times

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 4: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 2 decreases

Row 5: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, work 2 dc in the sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 4 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 1 more time

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 6: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 2 decreases

Row 7: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s),3 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s,

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 8: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 3 decreases

Row 9: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this)

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 10: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space ( 3 crocodile st’s only), break off yarn leaving a tail to sew opening closed, turn hat in side out and thread around opening then pull thread closed.

You will need to sew up the small gap in the beginning hdc foundation row as well

Crochet Baby Petal Beanie Tutorial - Crocodile Scale Stitch - Part 1 of 7

I hope that you have found these instructions useful.
Please like me on face book or and comment on my face book page for more user information.
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The Crocodile Scarf Video tutorial

Crochet Catherine Wheel Hat

2011-08-16T21:18:00.009+10:00

A big thank you to all of my pattern testers and their pictures!

Below, pattern tester Nancy Barrett, thank you Nancy.

Below, pattern tester Cassandra, thank you Cassandra.

Below, pattern tester Shaunna Hallsson, thank you Shaunna.

Below, pattern tester Tinka Mushett, thank you Tinka.

Below, pattern tester Joan Donaldson, thank you Joan.

Below, pattern tester Selene Leonard, thank you Selene.

Below, pattern tester Tasha Rogers Murphy, thank you Tasha.

Below, pattern tester Phyliss Wendt Edwards, thank you Phyliss.

Catherine Wheel Stitch Hat

Main color approx 50 gm’s , alternating color approx 25 gm’s

Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6

Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply

US terms used through out pattern

St’s used:

Sl st = slip stitch

Ch = chain

Hdc= half double crochet

Dc= double crochet

Special st see note

Skill= beginner +

Time=leisurely 4 hours

PLEASE READ ALL NOTES:

Special notes: You will need the basic dc crown pattern to begin making your hat, which is in written form and a video tutorial, located at this link.

http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2011/07/crochet-basic-dc-crown.html

To make the small size hat, you will need the small 60 dc crown.

To make the larger hat size, you will need the large 72 dc crown.

Pattern is quite repetitive, so you will get the hang of it in no time

Special st’s: 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 dc= yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (3 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (4 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next sc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (5 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (6 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (7 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (8 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all 8 loops on hook.

Complete your basic dc crown

Pattern rows:

Row1: Join in alternating yarn to top of ch 3 space with a sl st, ch 3, work 2 more dc’s in same space as ch3, skip 2 dc’s, sc in next dc, skip 2 dc’s,* work 7 dc in the next dc, skip 2 dc’s, work 1 sc in next dc, skip 2 dc’s,* repeat from *to* to end, work 4 more dc’s in same space as beginning ch3, sl st into top of ch 3 to join round, break off and secure yarn

Row 2: Join in alternating yarn to any 4^th dc of the 7 dc group, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 sc in same space, ch 3, work 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 st’s, ch 3, *work 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, work 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 st’s, ch 3,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st in to beginning sc to join, break off and secure yarn

Row 3: Join in alternating yarn to same space as the sl st, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 sc in same space, work 7 dc into the joining space of the 7 dc’s on previous row, *work 1 sc into the next sc, work 7 dc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st in to beginning sc to join, break off and secure yarn

Rows 2 to 3 form hat pattern: *repeat row 2 then repeat row 3* alternatively for height desired, then follow hat edge instruction

Hat edge: Scallop Straight

HDC Hat Edge Below:

Hat edge:

Option 1:

Continue working pattern until hat height reaches approx 11 inches, finishing on a row of you choice, row 3 will give you a straight edge, row 2 will give you a scalloped hat edge

Option 2:

Continue working in pattern until hat height reaches approx 9 inches, finishing pattern on a row 2.

Row 1: with yarn of your choice, join in yarn to same space as the sl st, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 hdc in same space as join, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, work 1 hdc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, *work 1 hdc in the next sc, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, work 1 hdc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space,* repeat from *to* to end sl st in to beginning hdc to join,

Row 2: ch 1, work 1 hdc in each hdc around, sl st in to beginning hdc to join

Row 3: repeat row 2 for hat height desired or for hat height of approx 11 inches

Finish off hat sew in all loose ends

Clare Sullivan, video tutorial, thank you Clare.

I hope that you have found these instructions useful.
Please like me on face book or and comment on my face book page for more user information.
I am always more than happy to help.

Crochet, Little Miss Pink Puff, Preemie Sweater

2011-08-09T01:33:00.003+10:00

Little MissPinkPuff is designed for a preemie size baby approx 2 lb (1 to 3 lb)

The puff st makes the little sweater just a bit fancy.

If you are running short of your main yarn, the puff stitch can be also made over 2 dc in stead of the 3 dc puff st included in the pattern instructions.

You can barely tell the difference but there is a weight difference of 8 grams using the 2 dc puff stitch.

2 dc puff stitch=

yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop,(5 stitches on hook), you over draw through 4 loops, yo draw through 2 loops

The one on the right has the 3 dc puff st

Size, preemie approx 2lb (1 to 3 lb)

Hook 4.00 mm US: G/6

Yarn: 8 ply US: 4ply

Tension: medium

Materials: small amount of contrast and main approx 40 gm’s,

3 small buttons

Stitches used:

Ch=chain

Sc=single crochet

Dc=double crochet

Back loop

Front loop

Dec=decrease

Inc=increase

Special Stitch Used: Puff st= yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, yo hook insert hook in st, draw up a loop, (7 loops on hook) yo hook and draw through 6 loops on hook ( 2 loops on hook), yo hook and draw through 2 loops

Special Instructions: #1 Sweater begins at collar.#2 Arms, back and front top yolk are worked onto collar #3 sides and back are worked in one piece as armhole st’s are skipped. #4 Bottom, side and collar edgings are worked in next. #5 Arms are joined in by picking up st’s from skipped st’s under yolk.

Beginning ch 3 is counted as the first st of every row

Begin with contrasting color: Ch 37

Row 1: work 1 sc in 2^nd chain from hook, work 1 sc in each chain across, change to main color, (36 sc) then ch 3 and turn (ch 3 is first st of next row)

Row 2: work 1 dc in each sc across (36 dc), ch 3 and turn

Decrease row (shape collar)

Row 3: work 1 dc in next dc, dc next 3 dc’s together (dec made), work 1 dc in each of the next 26 dc, , dc next 3 dc’s together, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st’s, ( 32 dc) ch 3 and turn

Increase row (shape shoulders)

Working row 4 in back loops only

Row 4: work 1 dc in next 7 dc, work 4 dc’s in each of the next 2 st’s (inc made),work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc’s, work 2 dc’s into each of the next 4 dc’s (inc made), work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc’s, work 4 dc’s in each of the next 2 st’s (inc made) work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (48 dc) ch 3 and turn

Increase row

Row 5: work 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 16 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn

Row 6: work 1 dc in each dc to end, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn

Working row 7 in back loops only

Shape arm holes

Row 7: work 1 dc in next dc, work 1 puff st in next 6 dc’s, skip the next 12 dc, work 1 puff st in each of the next 16 dc, skip the next 12 dc, work 1 puff st in next 6 dc’s, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st’s, ch 3 and turn (2 dc, 28 puff st, 2dc=32 st’s)

Row 8: work 1 dc in next dc, work 1 puff st into each of next 28 puff st’s, work 1 dc in next 2 st’s, ch 3 and turn (2 dc, 28 puff st, 2dc=32 st’s)

Row 9, 10, 11 and repeat row 8, change to contrasting color and chain1 sc to turn on last row (row 11)

Special Instructions: Before Beginning The Edge Trim: This is just a guide, go to row 12 to begin the edge trim

Working sc in contrast color #1, sc along the bottom edge, #2, sc up lefthand side, #3, sl st across collar, #4, sc along right hand side and making a ch 2 for 3 button loops and sc to end

Row: 12 work 1 sc in each dc and puff st, to last dc, work 2 sc in this dc, (left edge) working 2 sc in the side of a dc and 1 sc in the side of a ch 3 (approx 16 sc) to the sc space of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, sl st loosely across the beginning chains of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, work down the right hand side the same way as you did the left hand side, stopping at the 2nd back loop row to make first button loop, work 1 sc, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 2 spaces, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 2 spaces, ch 2, (3 button loops) work 1 sc in same sequence as before to end of the side, work 1 sc in the same space as the first sc made, sl st to next st, finish off yarn

Adding the sleeves

Right sleeve

Row 1: (turn garment up side down, with the front facing you) join in yarn to the same back loop of the last puff st worked on back panel, ch 2, in same place work a puff st, work 1 puff st in the back loops of the next 12 dc of the sleeve top, work 1 puff st in the same place as the next puff st, work 1 puff st in the centre space of the front and back panel, sl st into the top of the first puff st to join round (15 puff st’s) it will not matter if you are a stitch out

Row 2: ch 2,work 1 puff st in same st, work 1 puff st in each puff st to end of row, sl st into the top of the first puff st to join round (15 puff st’s)

Row 3 and Row 4: repeat row 2, change to contrast color

Row 5: ch 1, work 1 sc in each puff st around, sl st to first sc to join round

Row 6: ch 1, work 1 sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc to join round, finish off yarn.

Left sleeve

Turn garment up side down, with the front facing you, join in yarn to the same back loop of the last puff st worked on the left hand panel, repeat as for right sleeve

Sew in all loose ends

Buttons

Sew buttons onto the left hand side, making sure they are evenly placed, opposite the ch 2 button loops

You can find Little Boy Blue Here

Crochet, Little Boy Blue Preemie Sweater

2011-08-07T22:31:00.003+10:00

Little Boy Blue, Preemie Sweater

Size, preemie approx 2lb (1 to 3 lb)

Hook 4.00 mm US: G/6

Yarn: 8 ply US: 4ply

Tension: medium

Materials: small amount of contrast and main approx 25 gm’s,

3 small buttons

Stitches used:

Ch=chain

Sc=single crochet

Dc=double crochet

Back loop

Front loop

Dec=decrease

Inc=increase

Special Instructions: #1 Sweater begins at collar.#2 Arms, back and front top yolk are worked onto collar #3 sides and back are worked in one piece as armhole st’s are skipped. #4 Bottom, side and collar edgings are worked in next. #5 Arms are joined in by picking up st’s from skipped st’s under yolk.

Beginning ch 3 is counted as the first st of every row

Begin with contrasting color: Ch 37

Row 1: work 1 sc in 2^nd chain from hook, work 1 sc in each chain across, change to main color, (36 sc) then ch 3 and turn (ch 3 is first st of next row)

Row 2: work 1 dc in each sc across (36 dc), ch 3 and turn

Decrease row (shape collar)

Row 3: work 1 dc in next dc, dc next 3 dc’s together (dec made), work 1 dc in each of the next 26 dc, , dc next 3 dc’s together, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 st’s, ( 32 dc) ch 3 and turn

Increase row (shape shoulders)

Working row 4 in back loops only

Increase row

Picture, end of row 5

Row 6: work 1 dc in each dc to end, (56 dc) ch 3 and turn

Working row 7 in front loops only

Shape arm holes

Row 7: work 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, skip the next 12 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 16 dc, skip the next 12 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, (32 dc) ch 3 and turn

You will now be working the back and front panels in one piece

Row 8: work 1 dc in each dc to end, (32 dc) ch 3 and turn

Repeat row 8, 4 more times, change to contrasting color and chaining 1 sc to turn on last row (row 12)

Special Instructions Before Beginning The Edge Trim: This is just a guide, go to row 13 to begin the edge trim (after the next picture).

Working sc in contrast color #1, sc along the bottom edge, #2, sc up right hand side, #3, sl st across collar, #4, sc along left hand side and making a ch 2 for 3 button loops and sc to end

Begin Edge Trim

Row: 13 work 1 sc in each dc to last dc, work 2 sc in this dc, (right edge) working 2 sc in the side of a dc and 1 sc in the side of a ch 3 (approx 16 sc) to the sc space of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, sl st loosely across the beginning chains of the collar, work 2 sc’s in the side of the sc, work down left the hand side the same way as you did the right hand side, stopping at the front loop row to make first button loop, work 1 sc, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 3 spaces, ch 2, work 1 sc in next 3 spaces, ch 2, (3 button loops) work 1 sc in same sequence as before to end of the side, work 1 sc in the same space as the first sc made, sl st to next st, finish off yarn

Adding the sleeves

Left sleeve

Row 1: (turn garment up side down, with the front facing you) join in yarn to the same back loop of the last dc worked, ch 3, work 1 dc in the back loops of the next 12 dc, work 1 dc in the same back loop of the next dc, work 1 dc in the side of the next dc, work 1 dc in the space as the dc you just worked into the side of, work 1 dc in the side of the next dc, (17 dc) sl st to top of ch 3 to join round (if you are out a st that’s okay)

Row 2: ch 3, work 1 dc in each dc around, (17 dc) sl st to top of ch 3 to join round

Row 3: repeat row 2

Row 4: ch 1 work 1 sc into top of ch 3 and in each st around, sl st to first sc to join round (17 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, work 1 sc into each sc around, sl st to first sc to join round (17 sc)

Change to contrasting color

Row 6: ch 1 work 1 sc in each st around, sl st to join finish off

Right sleeve

Row 1: (turn garment up side down, with the back facing you) repeat instructions as per left sleeve

Buttons

Sew buttons onto the right hand side, making sure they are evenly placed, opposite the ch 2 button loops

You can find Little Miss Pink Puff Here

Crochet The Tezzie Hat

2011-07-31T01:52:00.002+10:00

The Tezzie Hat

Look for me on Face Book And Like My Page More Free Patterns

Close up of the Tezzie stitch

The Tezzie hat with the hat edge completed

Hook size: AU 4.00mm. US G/6

Yarn ply: AU 8 ply. US 4 ply approx 50 gm’s

Tension: See basic crown

US terms used
Beginner +

St’s used:

Ch= chain

Sl st= slip st

Sc= single crochet

Dc= double crochet

Fpdc=front post double crochet

Bpdc= back post double crochet

Trbl= treble

Fptrbl= front post treble

Stitch instructions here

Introduction: Hat pattern is worked over 3 rows.

The set up row,

the pattern stitch row,

the completion row

Special stitch= 4 fptrbl’s worked around the 2nd dc of the skipped dc of the row below

The stitch count for the pattern is over 6 st’s and repeated around

To begin complete the basic dc crown for the size you want, the beginning ch 3 is counted as a stitch

Pattern rows:

Row 1: ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, ch4, skip next 4 dc, *work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, ch 4, skip next 4 dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 2: ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, work 4 fptrbl’s around the 2^nd skipped dc of the row below, *working back on this row, work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc, work 4 fptrbl’s in the 2^nd skipped dc of the row below,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 3: ch 3, work 1 dc in each stitch around, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round, please count your dc’s, you should have the same amount of dc’s as you did before you began the pattern rows

For both small and medium to large size hat, repeat pattern 3 more times (4 times in all, 12 rows in total)

Height with out the hat edge, slightly stretched, is approx 8 inches high

Begin hat edge: the beginning ch 3 will not be counted as a st

Row 1: ch 3, work a fpdc around same st, work a bpdc around next dc, *work a fpdc around the next dc, work a bpdc around the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, making sure to end with a bpdc, sl st into top of beginning ch 3 to join round

Row 2: ch 3, *work a fpdc around the fpdc, work a bpdc around the bpdc* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into top of ch 3 to join round

Your hat, (slightly stretched) should now be approx 9 inches in height, you can finish off here or repeat row 2 of hat edge for a higher hat height

The pattern stitch can be worked into any hat that is devisable by 6 dc, such as 12, 24, 36, 48 and so on.

Another great video tutorial by Bobwilson123 visit her on face book or you tube for more free video tutorials! Thanks Bob!

Crochet Basic DC Crown

2011-07-28T22:17:00.001+10:00

The basic dc crown can be used for the beginning of many hat designs.

The measurements given are an approximate as many yarns will differ from brand to brand.

I am using an AU 8 ply yarn (US 4 ply) and a 4.00mm hook (US G/6)

The crochet terms I use are US

I will be giving instructions for a small adult and medium to large adult, both reflecting woman's sizes.

Stitches used are:

chain

DC= double crochet

Sl st= slip stitch

Tension: see pictures below for measurements

Notes: the beginning ch 3 is counted as a dc.

To begin: Ch 4

Row 1.Work 11 dc into 4th chain from hook, sl st to join in top of ch 3. (12 dc)

Row 2. Ch 3, work 1 dc in same place as ch 3, work 2 dc in each dc around, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (24 dc)

Row3. Ch 3, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (36 dc)

Row 4. Ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (48 dc)

Row 5. Ch 3, work 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (60 dc)

Stop increasing here for a small adult hat.

Row 6. Ch 3, work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (72 dc)

Stop increasing here for a medium to large adult hat

You are now ready to work with out increasing.

Work 1 dc in each st around, sl st to join in top of ch3.

Repeat above round with out increasing for hat height desired.

You also have the option to use a stitch pattern in the hat, once the crown has been established.

If you choose to do this you will need a stitch pattern that is dividable by the amount of st's you already have.

Keeping in mind that you will be joining the pattern round.

It will not matter too much if you need to increase/decrease a stitch or 2 for this to happen.

The average hat height is about 9 inches or 11 inches with a folded brim.

We can also work the crown rounds in multiples of 10 dc's, this is particularly useful for the in between sizes and varied tensions.

Using the instructions above begin with 10 dc, increasing in rows to 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70.

Once again a big thank you to Bobwilson123 for an excellent learning video tutorial!

I hope that you have found these instructions useful.

Please like me on face book or and comment on my face book page for more user information.

I am always more than happy to help.

More dc Crown help here.

Tunisian Entrelac Stitch Count

2011-07-26T11:49:00.001+10:00

I am writing this post to keep some information stored for myself and for others who may need it too.

I happened across a video tutorial made by Bethintx1 (her you tube channel).

The video was a crochet along making an afghan with the tunisian entrelac method.

The out come of her afghan was just lovely.

But I wanted to down size my project and just followed along for 3 rounds and a, half squares round for my face cloth.

The next face cloth I did I made some improvements on and I did a sc border, simple but it looked nicer, so I went back to my first one and did the same thing.

I really wanted to know the break down of the stitch count, so I could make other shapes and items with this pattern.

I asked the professional, Beth!

I had this st count.

‎( 2 diamonds = 21 chain, 3 diamonds = 31chain, 7 diamonds = 71 chain...) think I found it, cheers Cat :)

This is the st count and explanation she gave me.

10 for the square and one for the joining chain between the squares. so if you start with 7 squares, it would be 70, plus 6; because there are six joinings between the 7 squares.

‎

(2 diamonds= 21 chains, 3 diamonds 32 chains, 4 diamonds = 43 chains, etc. )

I am officially excited to have the formula.

Below is the beginning of the video tutorial I crocheted along with, thank you Beth.

Crochet Preemie Baby Hats

2011-07-21T22:15:00.002+10:00

I am currently making baby hats for preemie baby's,some are small enough for the precious ones we loose. I will be donating these and more to my local country hospital.

I got the sizing from Bev,s blog link here.

I made mine with AU 5 ply and a 3.5m hook.

I began the first round with 12 dc.

Ch 4, work 11 dc into 4th ch from hook, sl st to join round

Second round was increased to 24 dc.

ch 3, work 1 dc in same space, work 2 dc in each dc around, sl st to join round

Third round was increased to 36 dc.

Ch 3, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join round

The hat measure's approx 22 cm around.

I made 5 more rounds in dc (work 1 dc in each dc to end of round, sl st to join round, repeat 4 more times (5 times in total)

Then I did 2 rounds of hdc for the rim of the hat.
Work 1 hdc in each st around for 2 more rows, finish off, weave in ends.
My hat length is approx 7.5 cm long.

These little hats can be difficult to measure with a tape, you can take some yarn to place around your hat circle and place it against the tape to get your measurements.

All hats have a small pattern piece in them to make them more appealing.

Crochet T Strap Booties

2011-07-21T17:02:00.000+10:00

You can find the free pattern for these little beauties here. Free membership available for the free pattern.

They look great on my baby grand daughters little feet.

I just had to share this lovely picture of my 2 grand daughters, Bella and Cindy

Crochet a Baby Mobile

2011-07-21T15:08:00.002+10:00

Not a difficult project to make if you are familiar with making Amigurumi's (small crocheted toys).

First I had to select a few dolls to make and a color scheme, nice and bright to catch baby's eye's.

You can do a google search for many free crochet Amigurumi.

I found the 2 on the out side at this site for free, called sleepy sarah, the little girl was found else where, can't recall where right now.

Ella Phant was made from the pattern book, Amigurumi World.

Mona Key was made from the same pattern book. Not their names in the pattern book, I just made the names up for fun.

At this stage I was thinking about the construction of the mobile.

I knew I had some wooden hangers to use and tried to visualize the hanging of the dolls, it was then that I thought of it's balance! I did plan to make more dolls for the mobile but I was now, more aware of the space I had to use and how to balance the dolls.

I put the largest 2 at the very top.

Then the matching pair on the center hanger.

Then the single doll on the bottom hanger.

But before I attached the dolls to the hanger I crocheted a plain white cover for them.

I now needed the final touch and crocheted some colored cork screws to go in between the blank spaces. There is a you tube tutorial on how to make these.

My plan was coming together. I used clear plastic line to attach the dolls to the coat hanger, being careful of the balance of the whole thing.

I'm really happy with the out come and baby Cindy now 4 weeks old seems to look at it, once she has her eye sight fully focused I am sure she will spend many hours admiring her mobile. The whole project will take you a relaxed week of crocheting if you choose to make one for your self.

My little girl is growing.

If you crochet over a hanger, just make the chain about 1 inch longer than the hanger.

Once I made the row height for one facing of the coat hanger, I crocheted into the back loops of the next row to get a turning seam.

My next side was done and I needed to crochet into the front loops for the next turning seam.

I repeated alternating front loop and back loop for the turning edges and I closed it up with a simple slip stitch then inserted the hanger and sewed the ends closed.

Amigurumi is made in a circle with a sc and rounds are not joined, there is lots of counting to do and a stitch marker is your best friend to avoid mistakes. Below you can see an abacus that I use for counting, it also doubles up as a pattern book holder, very handy.

Amigurumi World Pattern Book.

Crochet A Flower

2011-07-05T00:16:00.000+10:00

Not only did I crochet one of my favorite flowers, but I knitted one too.

I love the fuchsia flower and lavender amongst many others, the lavender is knitted, but I'm sure I could make it in crochet too, when I have time I will try to make a pattern for a crocheted one unless there is one on line for free.

I didn't realize at first the pattern book is written n UK terms, so my fuchsia may be a little large, but I will make more a bit smaller and arrange them some how.

The patterns came from the above book, it is loaded with flower patterns, enough to make a bouquet.

24/06/2011 My new baby grand daughter

2011-07-05T00:07:00.000+10:00

I'm so pleased to introduce my new grand daughter Cindy

My new grand daughter Cindy Cathryn

Little Cindy C

Here she is wearing one of my beanie babe hats

Too cute in her Minnie suit

In her crib at the hospital

My daughter Casey, Cindy's mum

Too cute

Cute Little Stay On Poncho

2011-06-04T11:59:00.000+10:00

I have made this poncho once before, it's a good design as it stay's on and in place unlike the regular poncho. It's perfect for the toddler/child for this reason.

For the top photo I used 110 gm's of yarn and a size 4.00 mm hook (US G/6)

The center length measure's approx 13 inches (with out the tassels).

You can find the free pattern here, but I did have some difficulty in understanding row's 4 and 14 for the size 12/15 months, I will include my revised steps below in red.

half shell: 2dc ch 1

Shell: 2 dc, ch1, 2 dc

Rnd4: Ch 3, dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same stitch, ch 1,** skip 2 stitches, 2 dc, ch 1 in next stitch. skip 1 stitch, 2 dc, ch 1 in next stitch ** repeat from ** to** for a total of 14 half shells.skip 2 st’s, Shell in next stitch, skip 2 st’s, than repeat with half shells alternating with skipping 2 stitches and 1 stitch in between each around(14half shells) Join: total of 28 half shells and 2 shells

Rnd 14: slip stitch to center of shell, Ch 2, dc, ch 1, 2dc in ch 1 sp.** ch 1, 2dc in next ch 1 sp ** repeat till after you have done 6- 1/2 shells Now

skip 12 shell spaces,(armhole) 2dc,ch 1 in next ch 1 sp, repeat 5 more times (6-1/2 shells) do a full shell, ** Repeat from** to last shell, join..

24 half shells ,2 full shells.

Quick Crochet 3 to 6 month old Baby Beanie

2011-06-03T00:20:00.001+10:00

Cat's Beanie-Babe #2

The above beanie-babe is a size new born to 3 months, pattern here.

Below is the beanie-babe size 3 to 6 months, displayed on the same doll, so you can compare the size difference.

To fit: 3 to 6 month old

Hook size: 4.00mm US G/6

Yarn: 8 ply approx 50 gm’s US DK/Medium

US crochet terms used

Skill level: beginner +

Tension: medium

Time: approx 2 hours

Stitches used:

Sl st= slip stitch

Ch= chain

Hdc= half double crochet

yo, insert hook into top two loops of stitch,
yo, pull through stitch (3 lps on hook),
yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Bl= back loop

Fphdc= front post half double crochet

Bphdc= back post half double crochet

Front and back post video tutorial

Measurements:
Head Circumference 15 inches, hat height 6 to 7 inches

The beanie-babe is designed as a smart grow.
It will grow with your baby by adjusting the ribbed edge.

The beanie begins at the top of the head and worked down to the ribbed edging, the beanie is worked in one piece using the hdc st, which makes a nice closed stitch.

Begin.

Beginning ch 1 of every rnd is not counted as a st.

Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring.

Row 1 ch 1, work 12 hdc into ring, sl st to join in the 1st hdc (you will do this on every round until a ch 2 begins)

Row 2 ch 1, work 2 hdc into each hdc around to end, sl st to join (24 hdc)

Row 3 ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 2 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next hdc* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (32 hdc)

Row 4 ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 3 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next hdc* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (40 hdc)

Row 5 ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 4 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next hdc* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (48 hdc)

Row 6 ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 11 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next hdc*
repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (52 hdc)

Stop increasing

Row 7 ch 1, work 1 hdc in each hdc to end, sl st to join (52 hdc)

Rows 8 to 19, repeat row 7, or repeat row 7, until hat measure's 6 inches long

Row 20 ch 1, work 1 hdc in the front loop of each hdc around (52 hdc),sl st to join by going around the back of the sc (see image)

Making the ribbed edge:

Row 21 ch 2 (the ch 2 is now a new st),* work 1 fphdc around the post of the next hdc, work 1 bphdc around the post of the next hdc,* repeat from *to* to end of the round, sl st into top of ch 2 to join

Row 22 , 23 and 24, ch 2, *work 1 fphdc around the post of the next fphdc, work 1 bphdc around the post of the next bphdc,* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to join, at the end of row 20, finish off yarn leaving a small tail to weave in

Hide loose ends, fold up ribbed edge, add pompom if you choose, or my new beary easy bear applique, link here.

Good luck with your baby beanie, I’d love to hear your feed back.

Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too.

Crochet Beary Easy, Bear Face Appliqué

2011-06-02T21:07:00.000+10:00

Measure’s

1.5 inches high

2.5 inches wide

Hook size 4 mm US G/6

Yarn 8 ply US DK/Medium

Skill level: beginner

Time: approx 30 mins

Supplies needed:

Small amounts of, color 1, color 2, black thread, 2 small buttons, sewing needle’s

Us terms used

Sl st

Tension not required, but if you find your appliqué, too big or too small, change your hook size to suit the size you want

3 rows for the head, 2 rows for the nose.

Pattern begins in the center of the head for 2 rows, then the ears are made in the 3rd row of the head part. The nose is made separately, then sewed on after completion.

Head and color 1: ch 2

Row 1 work 8 sc in first ch made, sl st into first sc to join, ch 1 (8 sc)

Row 2 work 2 sc in each sc around, sl st into first sc to join, ch 1 (16 sc)

Row 3 work 1 sc in the next 3 sc, sl st into next sc, work 6 dc in next sc, sl st into next sc, work 1 sc in next 7 sc, work 1 sl st into next sc, work 6 dc in next sc, sl st into next sc, sl st into first sc to join, finish off leaving a tail for sewing on appliqué

Nose and color 2: ch 2

Row 1 work 4 sc in first ch made, sl st into first sc to join, ch 1 (4 sc)

Row 2 work 2 sc in each sc around, sl st into first sc to join, finish off leaving a tail to sew nose onto face (8sc)

Putting it together:

Sew in loose ends

Sew nose onto lower part of head, then using crochet thread or double stranded cotton, sew a Y shape onto the nose, and then place buttons securely and evenly on the sides of the nose in the 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock position.

My bears go around my baby beanie, total cuteness.

Caution small parts could choke baby if they come off, you may want to sew in eyes with yarn, or glue on felted eyes.

Quick Crochet Newborn Baby Beanie

2011-05-31T20:12:00.005+10:00

Cat's Beanie-Babe #1

To fit: newborn

Hook size: 4.00mm US G/6

Yarn: 8 ply approx 50 gm’s US DK/Medium

US crochet terms used

Skill level: beginner +

Tension: medium

Time: approx 2 hours

Stitches used:

Sl st= slip stitch

Ch= chain

Hdc= half double crochet

yo, insert hook into top two loops of stitch,
yo, pull through stitch (3 lps on hook),
yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Bl= back loop

Fphdc= front post half double crochet

Bphdc= back post half double crochet

Front and back post video tutorials

Measurements: Head Circumference 13 inches, hat height 5 inches

Row 5 end increases

Length of hat with out ribbed edge

Length of hat with ribbed edge

Special Notes: I like the wrong side of the hdc to show on the out side, but if you prefer to show the right side on the out side, on row 16, work that row into the front loop of the st, this helps for better folding of the ribbed edge

Wrong side out

Right side out

The beanie begins at the top of the head and worked down to the ribbed edging, the beanie is worked in one piece using the hdc st, which makes a nice closed stitch.

Begin.

Beginning ch 1 of every rnd is not counted as a st.

Chain 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring.

Row 1 ch 1, work 12 hdc into ring, sl st to join in the 1st hdc (you will do this on every round until a ch 2 begins)

Row 2 ch 1, work 2 hdc into each hdc around to end, sl st to join (24 hdc)

Row 3 ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 2 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (32 hdc)

Row 4 ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 3 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (40 hdc)

Row 5 ch 1, *work 1 hdc into the next 4 hdc, work 2 hdc into the next* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join (48 hdc)

Stop increasing

Row 6 to 15 ch 1, work 1 hdc into each hdc around to end, sl st to join

IF YOU WANT YOUR BEANIE LONGER DO MORE ROWS HERE, WORK TO 5.5 INCHES FOR A NEW BORN, THEN FOLLOW THE REST OF THE PATTERN

Row 16 ch 1, work 1 hdc in the back loop of each hdc around to end, (48 hdc),sl st to join by going around the back of the sc (see image)

Making the ribbed edge:

Row 17 ch 2 (the ch 2 is now a new st),* work 1 fphdc around the post of the next hdc, work 1 bphdc around the post of the next hdc,* repeat from *to* to end of the round, sl st into top of ch 2 to join

Row 18 , 19 and 20, ch 2, *work 1 fphdc around the post of the next fphdc, work 1 bphdc around the post of the next bphdc,* repeat from *to* to end of round, sl st to join, at the end of row 20, finish off yarn leaving a small tail to weave in

The beanie-babe is designed as a smart grow.

It will grow with your baby by adjusting the ribbed edge.

Hide loose ends, fold up ribbed edge, add pompom if you choose,or my new beary easy bear applique, link here

Good luck with your baby beanie, I’d love to hear your feed back.

Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too.

Cat’s One Piece Wonder, Baby Diaper Cover

2011-05-29T21:52:00.003+10:00

Cat’s One Piece Wonder, Baby Diaper Cover

new born to 3 months

Matching one piece wonder sweater cardigan here

My dear sweet grand daughter is wearing the diaper cover, matching one piece sweater and booties here, she is 2 weeks old and her name is Cindy.

Introduction: The diaper cover is worked side ways and in one piece beginning at right hand side (front) which includes the waist, the body of the pants and the leg hole, after 10 pattern repeats the leg cuff ends and the crutch part begins for 3 rows, then the left hand front and back begin for 21 pattern rows, then onto the rear crutch, which is made slightly larger than the front using a trbl st in one row of the 3 pattern rows, the pattern then continues on to the right hand rear side for 11 more pattern rows.

Made in this direction

Turned side ways

Now fold in half

Finished

You will have 10 sc for the waist, 20 dc for the body and 8 sc for the leg openings

The pattern is quite repetitive so you will get the hang of it in no time.

To fit: newborn to 3 months
Measurements: leg opening stretched 6 inches around, waist 16 inches around, length 8 inches, width around the widest bottom part, 24 inches stretched.

Hook size: 4.00mm US G/6

Yarn: 8 ply approx 100 gm’s US DK/Medium

US crochet terms used

Skill level: beginner

Tension: medium

You may need some thin elastic for the waist, or choose to make the optional button up flap

Stitches used:

Ch= chain

Sc= single crochet

Dc= double crochet

BL= back loop

Trbl= treble

Special Instructions:

Unless working into a chain, every stitch in this pattern is worked into the back loop of every stitch

The chain 3 to turn is the first dc of that row worked

The chain 4 to turn is the first trbl of that row worked

To begin ch 39

Remember to work in the back loop of every st unless it is a ch st.

Right hand Front (10 rows)

Row 1 work 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 9 ch, 1 dc in next 20 ch, 1 sc in next 8 ch, ch 1 and turn (10 sc, 20 dc, 8 sc= 38 st’s)

Row 2 work 1 sc in next 8 sc, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, work 1 sc in next 10 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 3 work 1 sc in next 10 sc, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, work 1 sc in next 8 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 4 work 1 sc in next 8 sc, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, work 1 sc in next 10 sc, ch 1 and turn

Rows 5 to 10, repeat rows 3 and 4, 3 more times (6 more pattern rows)

Do not break off yarn

Front Crutch part (3 rows)

Row 1 work 1 sc in next 10 sc, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 2 work 1 dc in next 19 dc, work 1 sc in next 10 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 3 work 1 sc in next 10 sc, work 1 dc in next 19 dc, work 1 dc in top of ch 3, ch 9 and turn

Do not break off yarn

Left Hand Front and Left Hand Rear (21 rows)

Row 1 work 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 7 ch, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, work 1 sc in next 10 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 2 work 1 sc in next 10 sc, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, work 1 sc in next 8 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 3 work 1 sc in next 8 sc, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, work 1 sc in next 10 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 4 work 1 sc in next 10 sc, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, work 1 sc in next 8 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 5 work 1 sc in next 8 sc, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, work 1 sc in next 10 sc, ch 1 and turn

Rows 6 to 21, repeat rows 4 and 5, 8 more times (16 more pattern rows)

Rear Crutch (3 rows)

Row 1 Row 1 work 1 sc in next 10 sc, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, ch 4 and turn

Row 2 work 1 trbl in next 19 dc, work 1 sc in next 10 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 3 work 1 sc in next 10 sc, work 1 dc in next 19 trbl, work 1 dc in top of ch 4, ch 9 and turn

Do not break off yarn

Right Hand Rear (11 rows)

Row 1 Row 1 work 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 7 ch, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, work 1 sc in next 10 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 2 work 1 sc in next 10 sc, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, work 1 sc in next 8 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 3 work 1 sc in next 8 sc, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, work 1 sc in next 10 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 4 work 1 sc in next 10 sc, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, work 1 sc in next 8 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 5 work 1 sc in next 8 sc, work 1 dc in next 20 dc, work 1 sc in next 10 sc, ch 1 and turn

Rows 6 to 11, repeat rows 4 and 5, 3 more times (6 more pattern rows)

Working a ch 3 and turn for the button up flap on row 11

Making the button up flap

Do not break off yarn if you choose to make the button up flap, which is my preferred option

If you choose not to make the button up flap, break off yarn leaving a long tail for sewing, pick the side you want to show on the out side then fold that in wards, sew the pants up down the leg side, then sew up the crutch, add elastic if needed.

Button Up Flap (still working in the back loop of each st)

The ch 3 is the first st of this row and every other row

Row 1 work 1 dc in next 9 sc, ch 3 and turn (1 ch 3,9 dc)

Row 2 skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next 6 dc, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn (1 ch 3, 7 dc)

Row 3 skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next 4 dc, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn (1 ch 3 5 dc)

Row 4 work 1 dc in next 4 dc, 1 dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn (1 ch 3, 5 dc)

Row 5 work 1 dc in next 4 dc, 1 dc in top of ch 3, finish off

Making up, sew around left leg and onto the crutch area where you may need to do a little manipulating to keep this area as even as possible (back being a little larger than the front), sew along other side of the leg. Sew down the right side of the pants beginning at the first dc under the waist line (leave waist open for the tightening or loosening of the flap) and down to the leg part, place button/buttons to a position of your choice for the fastening of the waist flap

This is how I sketched the pattern out

Matching one piece wonder booties here

Good luck with your diaper cover, I’d love to hear your feed back.

Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too.

Cat’s One Piece Wonder, Baby Sweater/Cardigan 3 to 6 months

2011-05-26T15:10:00.005+10:00

Cat’s One Piece Wonder, Baby Sweater/Cardigan 3 to 6 months

Below, 2 tone size 0 to 3 months

Below, size 3 to 6 months
sleeve length, shoulder to cuff, 9 inches, body from collar to bottom edge 11 inches, approx.

Swedish Translation of Pattern here

Muriel's Sweater Version

Introduction: This sweater/cardigan is worked in one piece beginning at the right front side, then a sleeve, then the back, then another sleeve, then the left front which is made slightly wider than the right, this is for the over flap to button the sweater/cardigan. Then the sides and sleeves are joined, followed by a collar which brings it all in. The sweater/cardigan is reversible if you refer to button up on the opposite side.

The sleeve cuffs are included in the making of the sleeve.

The pattern is quite repetitive so you will get the hang of it in no time, it may be easier to count the dc rows of each panel, right front has 10 panels, sleeves have 19 panels, back has 21 panels, left front has 15 panels.

This is what it will look like before sewing it up

To fit: 3 to 6 months (you can find the size 0 to 3 months pattern here)

Hook size: 4.00mm

Yarn: 8 ply approx 150 gm’s

US crochet terms used

Stitches used:

Ch= chain

Sc= single crochet

Trbl= treble crochet

Dc= double crochet

BL= back loop

Special Instructions:

Unless working into a chain, every stitch in this pattern is worked into the back loop of every stitch

The chain 3 to turn is the first dc of every row worked

When working into the chain 3 go into the second chain and not the top of the chain 3, this gives a nice firm bottom edging

To begin ch 48

Remember to work in the back loop of every st unless it is a ch st.

Right Front

Row 1. Work 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 10 ch, 1 dc in each ch to end (11 sc, 36 dc = 47 st’s) ch 3 and turn (ch 3 is the 1^st st of the next row and through out pattern)

Row 2. 1 dc in next 35 dc, 1 sc in next 11 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 dc in next 36 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 4. 1 dc in next 35 dc, 1 sc in next 11 sc, ch 1 and turn

Rows 5 to 8. Repeat rows 3 & 4 twice DO NOT BREAK OFF YARN

Right Sleeve: This is where the trbl is made

Row 1. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 trbl in next 9 dc, ch 22, turn

Row 2. 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 4 ch, 1 dc in next 16 ch, 1 dc in next 9 trbl, 1 sc in next 11 sc, (5 sc (cuff), 25 dc, 11 sc, = 41 st’s), ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 dc in next 25 dc, 1 sc in next 5 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 4. 1 sc in next 5 sc, 1 dc in next 25 dc, 1 sc in next 11 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 5. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 dc in next 25 dc, 1 sc in next 5 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 6. 1 sc in next 5 sc, 1 dc in next 25 dc, 1 sc in next 11 sc, ch 1 and turn

Rows 7 to 18. Repeat rows 5 and 6 DO NOT BREAK OFF YARN

Back

Row 1. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 trbl in next 9 dc, ch 29, turn

Row 2. 1 dc in 4^th ch from hook, 1 dc in next 25 ch, 1 dc in next 9 trbl, 1 sc in next 11 sc ( 36 dc and 11 sc) ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 dc in next 36 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 4. 1 dc in next 35 dc, 1 sc in next 11 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 5. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 dc in next 36 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 6. 1 dc in next 35 dc, 1 sc in next 11 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 7 to 18. Repeat rows 5 and 6, DO NOT BREAK OFF YARN

Left sleeve (is a repeat of right sleeve)

Row 1. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 trbl in next 9 dc, ch 22, turn

Row 2. 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 4 ch, 1 dc in next 16 ch, 1 dc in next 9 trbl, 1 sc in next 11 sc, (5 sc (cuff), 25 dc, 11 sc, = 41 st’s), ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 dc in next 25 dc, 1 sc in next 5 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 4. 1 sc in next 5 sc, 1 dc in next 25 dc, 1 sc in next 11 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 5. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 dc in next 25 dc, 1 sc in next 5 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 6. 1 sc in next 5 sc, 1 dc in next 25 dc, 1 sc in next 11 sc, ch 1 and turn

Rows 7 to 18. Repeat rows 5 and 6 DO NOT BREAK OFF YARN

Left Front

Row 1. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 trbl in next 9 dc, ch 29, turn

Row 2. 1 dc in 4^th ch from hook, 1 dc in next 25 ch, 1 dc in next 9 trbl, 1 sc in next 11 sc ( 36 dc and 11 sc) ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 dc in next 36 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 4. 1 dc in next 35 dc, 1 sc in next 11 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 5. 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 dc in next 36 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 6 to 11. repeat rows 4 and 5, do not ch 3, now you can break off the yarn.

Putting it together:

Turn your sweater/cardigan inside out, line up the back and side from the bottom, you can sc them together or a simple whip st, I did mine the sc way, make sure each st is matched up and secure them together all the way up to the cuff, repeat for the other side.

The collar: By this stage you will notice that the collar is too wide, so we have to pick up and crochet st’s around the collar.

Row 1.Begin in the top corner of the right front, join yarn with a sl st and make 1 sc in same place, 1 sc in the next space, skip 1 space 1 sc in next all the way around, you will have approx 45 sc, ch 1 and turn ( no need for perfection here a st or 2 out will be fine)

Row 2. *1 sc in next 2 sc, sc next 2 sc together (decrease made), 1 sc in next 2 sc, * repeat from *to* to end, finish off

I had curling of my collar and was concerned it would not come out.

No curling after the second row of collar :)

You may like to make the collar a row or 2 longer, you can do this with out decreasing.

Now if you haven’t already, get out that needle and sew in loose ends, add buttons to right front, as many that suits you.

Now you can be a little fancy and add some nice picot edging around the sleeves or collar, add a flower or even make it in a two tone color.

More idea's here.

Size difference between 0 to 3 months and 3 to 6 months

Video Tutorial for 0 to 3 months size

Good luck with your sweater/cardigan, I’d love to hear your feed back.

Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too.

Cat’s One Piece Wonder Bootie Pattern

2011-05-19T21:52:00.005+10:00

Cat’s One Piece Wonder Bootie

Width of sole approx 3 inches, height with cuff up, from top to sole, approx 3.5 inches

My dear sweet grand daughter is wearing the diaper cover, matching one piece sweater and booties here, she is 2 weeks old and her name is Cindy.

Designed to match Cat's One Piece Wonder Sweater

Experience: beginner +

To fit new born

Hook size: 3 mm

Yarn 8 ply approx 20 gm

US terms used

Time to make, approx 2 hours

Medium tension

Stitches used

Back loop sc

Back loop dc
Go here, excellent stitch instructions for blsc, bldc, fpdc and bpdc.

Front post dc

Back post dc

Introduction:

Bootie is worked in one piece, beginning at the top of the cuff, down 1 side of the leg, heel and foot part, then the other side of the leg part and up to the other top of the cuff.

The cuff has a simple ribbed look by using the bpdc and fpdc st.

Special notes:

The turning ch 3 is the first st of each and every row

Do not break off yarn until the final row, leaving your self a long length of yarn to sew up booties

To begin ch 11

First side

Row 1. work 1 dc in 4^th ch from hook and in each ch across (9 st’s,) ch 3 and turn (the turning ch 3 is the first st of each and every row)

*( ribbing)* Row 2. work 1 bpdc around the post of the next dc, *work 1 fpdc around the post of the next dc, work 1 bpdc around the post of the next dc*, rep from *to* to last dc, work 1 dc in the top of the ch 3, (9 st’s) ch 3 and turn

Row 3. work 1 dc in the back loop of each dc across, work 1 dc in the top of the ch 3, (9 st’s), ch 3 and turn

Rows 4. and 5. (repeat row 3), at the end of row 5 ch 7, (instead of the ch 3)

Foot part

Row 6. work 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, work 1 dc in next 5 ch, work 1 dc in the back loop of the next 8 dc, work 1 dc in the top of the ch 3, ch 3 and turn ( 1 sc, 14 dc, 15 st’s total)

Row 7. work 1 dc in the back loop of the next 13 dc. Work 1 sc in the back loop of the last sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 8. work 1 sc in the back loop of the next sc, work 1 dc in the back loop of the next 13 dc, work 1 dc in the top of the ch 3, ch 1 and turn

Middle of Sole

Row 9. work 1 sc in the back loop of each st across, ch 1 and turn (15 sc)

Foot Part

Row 10. work 1 sc in the back loop of the next sc, work 1 dc in the back loop of the next 14 sc, ch 3 and turn ( 1 sc, 14 dc, 15 st’s total)

Row 11. work 1 dc in the back loop of the next 13 dc. Work 1 sc in the back loop of the last sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 12. work 1 sc in the back loop of the next sc, work 1 dc in the back loop of the next 13 dc, work 1 dc in the top of the ch 3, ch 3 and turn

Opposite Side

Row 13. work 1 dc in the back loop of the next 8 dc, ch 3 and turn ( 9 st’s)

Row 14. work 1 dc in the back loop of each dc across, work 1 dc in the top of the ch 3, ch 3 and turn

Row 15. work 1 dc in the back loop of each dc across, work 1 dc in the top of the ch 3, ch 3 and turn

Row 16. work 1 dc in the back loop of each dc across, work 1 dc in the top of the ch 3, ch 3 and turn

*( ribbing)* Row 17. work 1 fpdc around the post of the next dc, *work 1 bpdc around the post of the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the post of the next dc, * repeat from *to* 2 times more, work 1 dc in the top of the ch 3, break off yarn leaving your self enough yarn to sew around the entire bootie

To sew up bootie,it is best not to crochet the bootie closed, a simple whip st makes a finer finish for the inside of the bootie, gentle on the baby's feet.

Sew bootie up all in one go, pick the side you like the best to show on the out side, then make the fold so that is on the in side of the bootie. Sew down the side of the leg, across the top of the foot around the toe part, run the yarn neatly through the middle of the sole (row 9 in pattern), then continue to sew up the other leg side, secure yarn and finish off.

Turn the bootie right side out, turn the little cuff over and there you have it.

You can finish off with some ribbon or a length of chain threaded through through the row above the foot piece or any where of your liking.

I thought you may like some insight in how I planned this bootie, firstly I did a simple sketch of what I had in mind, I did make a bootie off the top sketch but is was like one of those Christmas stockings you make, so I had to refine it with a bit of shape and I made the bootie off the second sketch after I refined that a little more too.

Good luck with your bootie, I’d love to hear your feed back.

Check out the video tutorial for these by Bobwilson123, be sure to give her the thumbs up, better still subscribe to her you tube video tutorials, new tutorials up loaded weekly.

Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too.

Cat’s One Piece Wonder, Baby Sweater/Cardigan 0 to 3 months

2011-05-03T19:58:00.012+10:00

Cat’s One Piece Wonder, Baby Sweater/Cardigan

Front View

Sleeve length from collar to cuff, approx 8 inches, body length from collar to bottom edge approx 9 inches. note: garment will have some stretch depending on the yarn

Back View

See notes at bottom of page for this pretty one

My sweet grand daughter wearing the above sweater, she is 2 weeks old and her name is Cindy.

Introduction: This sweater/cardigan is worked in one piece beginning at the right front side, then a sleeve, then the back, then another sleeve, then the left front which is made slightly wider than the right, this is for the over flap to button the sweater/cardigan. Then the sides and sleeves are joined, followed by a collar which brings it all in. The sweater/cardigan is reversible if you refer to button up on the opposite side.

The sleeve cuffs are included in the making of the sleeve.

The pattern is quite repetitive so you will get the hang of it in no time, it may be easier to count the dc rows of each panel, right front has 8 panels, sleeves have 17 panels, back has 17 panels, left front has 10 panels.

To fit: newborn to 3 months (larger sized pattern to come at a later date, now available size 3 to 6 months)

Hook size: 4.00mm. US G/6

Yarn: 8 ply, approx 150 gm’s. US DK/Medium

US crochet terms used

Crochet tension, medium

Skill, beginner

Time frame, either side of 6 hours

Stitches used:

Ch= chain

Sc= single crochet

Dc= double crochet

BL= back loop

Sc 2 together= insert hook into first sc, pull up a loop, insert hook into second sc, pull up a loop,( 2 loops on hook) yarn over hook and pull through the 2 loops on hook.

Special Instructions:

Unless working into a chain, every stitch in this pattern is worked into the back loop of every stitch

The chain 3 to turn is the first dc of every row worked

When working into the chain 3 go into the second chain and not the top of the chain 3, this gives a nice firm bottom edging

To begin ch 41

Remember to work in the back loop of every st unless it is a ch st.

Right Front:

Row 1. Work 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 8 ch, 1 dc in each ch to end (9 sc, 31 dc = 40 st’s) ch 3 and turn (ch 3 is the 1^st st of the next row and through out pattern)

Row 2. 1 dc in next 30 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 31 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 4. 1 dc in next 30 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Rows 5 to 8. Repeat rows 3 & 4 twice DO NOT BREAK OFF YARN

Right Sleeve:

Row 1. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 7 dc, ch 19, turn

Row 2. 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 3 ch, 1 dc in next 14 ch, 1 dc in next 7 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, (4 sc (cuff), 21 dc, 9 sc, = 34 st’s), ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 4. 1 sc in next 4 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 5. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 6. 1 sc in next 4 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Rows 7 to 18. Repeat rows 5 and 6, DO NOT BREAK OFF YARN

Back:

Row 1. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 7 dc, ch 26, turn

Row 2. 1 dc in 4^th ch from hook, 1 dc in next 22 ch, 1 dc in next 7 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc ( 31 dc and 9 sc) ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 31 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 4. 1 dc in next 30 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 5. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 31 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 6. 1 dc in next 30 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 7 to 18. Repeat rows 5 and 6, DO NOT BREAK OFF YARN

Left sleeve: (is a repeat of right sleeve)

Row 1. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 7 dc, ch 19, turn

Row 2. 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 3 ch, 1 dc in next 14 ch, 1 dc in next 7 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, (4 sc (cuff), 21 dc, 9 sc, = 34 st’s), ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 4. 1 sc in next 4 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 5. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 6. 1 sc in next 4 sc, 1 dc in next 21 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Rows 7 to 18. Repeat rows 5 and 6 DO NOT BREAK OFF YARN

Left Front:

Row 1. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 7 dc, ch 26, turn

Row 2. 1 dc in 4^th ch from hook, 1 dc in next 22 ch, 1 dc in next 7 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc ( 31 dc and 9 sc) ch 1 and turn

Row 3. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 31 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 4. 1 dc in next 30 dc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 5. 1 sc in next 9 sc, 1 dc in next 31 dc, ch 3 and turn

Row 6 to 11. repeat rows 4 and 5, do not ch 3, now you can break off the yarn.

Putting it together:

The collar: By this stage you will notice that the collar is too wide, so we have to pick up and crochet st’s around the collar.

You may see a few yarn joins in the pictures, but that is only because I was using recycled yarn from a jumper I frogged, a beautiful soft woolen jumper.

Row 1.Begin in the top corner of the right front, join yarn with a sl st and make 1 sc in same place, 1 sc in the next space, skip 1 space, 1 sc in next, all the way around, you will have approx 38 sc, ch 1 and turn ( no need for perfection here a st or 2 out will be fine)

(this picture below, just shows the skipped space)

Row 2. *1 sc in next 2 sc, sc next 2 sc together (decrease made), 1 sc in next 2 sc, * repeat from *to* to end, finish off.

You may like to make the collar a row or 2 longer, you can do this with out decreasing.

Now if you haven’t already, get out that needle and sew in loose ends, add buttons to right front, as many that suits you.

Now you can be a little fancy and add some nice picot edging around the sleeves or collar, add a flower or even make it in a two tone color.

Note the spacing at the top of the front edge's where I have placed a button each side, this is the style of the sweater and I have added the 2 buttons for simple decoration.

Good luck with your sweater/cardigan, I’d love to hear your feed back.

Please do not sell this pattern, please link back to me if you use this pattern, I’d love to see this used for charity, and you can make and sell items from this pattern too.

Below, made by Tina Soren, just lovely.

Cat's Matching One Piece Wonder Bootie Pattern Here.

Wow, check this video tutorial out, thanks to Clare Sullivan a fellow Aussie that I met through face book. This must have been so time consuming and I really appreciate Clares time and wonderful comments.

Below is a demonstration of how this pattern can be quite versatile, my first choice was to go for a 2 tone color combo

I made 8 sc of the cream then 1sc of the pink so I would not have to change the colors on a sc to a dc, thus hiding the color change as much as I could.

I added 2 rows of sc to the cuff after finishing the one piece

I made an extra hdc row then a sc row on the very last panel ( left side)

Here it is before sewing in loose ends, I have lot's of joins as this is from recycled yarn.

This is the size difference between the 0 to 3 month pattern and the 3 to 6 month pattern

Old Sweater, New Bag, Recycling Fun.

2011-04-26T22:27:00.000+10:00

I've seen used felted sweaters and T Shirt's re-made into a bag, so I thought I'd give it a go too.

The sleeve's and neck are cut off to begin with.

The shape of the neck and arm holes are cut more for fine tuning of the shaping of the bag to be.

The sides of the sweater are now the very center of the front and back of the bag to be. The bottom hem is now ready for sewing.

Sewing completed.

The bag is taking some shape, but is too bland.

I crocheted a divider in the center of the bag.

I found some felted pieces that I was to use for another project that didn't suit that project but looked okay for this one.

After applying the applique's and crocheting around the bag handles to neaten it up, I now have an original bag made by me.

Now I have to test it out, roll on shopping day.

Crochet Plaid Scarf Neck/Warmer

2011-04-23T00:04:00.000+10:00

I've seen the plaid used in an afghan and loved it, so I thought I'd play around with it on a smaller level, such as the neck warmer, the only thing is, that you don't have much room for the utmost effect of the plaid.

This is the simple formula I used for my neck warmer.

Grid completed.

The weaving.

Finished weaving.

The tool I used for easy weaving, a crochet hook, some fishing line and some gaffa tape to secure it. The eye of my so called weaving tool, carry's many strands of yarn at once. This is secured to the bottom of my crochet hook.

Some recent finished crochet projects

2011-04-14T00:58:00.001+10:00

You may remember my child's, hdc ear flap hat pattern . I used this pattern to make a cute pink one for my daughter who is expecting a baby girl in June and I added some strawberry applique's for cuteness, which I found here

I just used a smaller hook to make it a smaller hat.

I also finished my heart square baby blanket too, you can see where it began here and find the heart graph there too.

Thanks for looking.